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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

ntsqd

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They're not. I debated using my Greenlee hex die crimper for this need and decided for the $36 to just buy the correct tool. This tool's die cavities are round, an electrical crimp tool could do the job but the cavity chosen would want to have the same cross-section to it's opening. Fiddle-farting around with that wasn't worth the $36 to me. 20+ years ago it would have been as I didn't have the $36 to spare then.

If, by some odd occurrence you happen to have a West Marine store within a reasonable distance they usually have a similar tool in the store that you could look at. CO seems an unlikely State to have a West Marine, but stranger things.....
 
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lilscorpion

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They're not. I debated using my Greenlee hex die crimper for this need and decided for the $36 to just buy the correct tool. This tool's die cavities are round, an electrical crimp tool could do the job but the cavity chosen would want to have the same cross-section to it's opening. Fiddle-farting around with that wasn't worth the $36 to me. 20+ years ago it would have been as I didn't have the $36 to spare then.

If, by some odd occurrence you happen to have a West Marine store within a reasonable distance they usually have a similar tool in the store that you could look at. CO seems an unlikely State to have a West Marine, but stranger things.....
I’m with you - it’s easier to buy the right tool which is what I tend to do now that I pretend to be older and wiser. My observation was really more from an import manufacturing and sales POV. “It would be funny if the MFG is selling the same tool for two different purposes….”
 

Bob Heine

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Wish I could set them side by side. My gut says they’re the same tool.
Matt, I think you're right. Back in 2017 I bought a hydraulic crimper on Amazon for $30.99 and Knipex compound cutter so I could reliably cut steel cable.
Crimper and Cutter.jpg
The yellow tool was described as a "10T Hydraulic Wire Lug Terminal Crimper Battery Cable Crimping Machine, Swaging Tool Kit with 9 Pairs of Dies."
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0A2TT4/?tag=atomicindus08-20)
It uses hex dies rather than 'U' dies but their "Applicable Scene" photo includes stainless wire stair railing.
Crimper and Cutter Applications.jpg
I changed several cable eyes from bolt-on clamps to aluminum crimping loop sleeves. None of them have failed and they are keeping tension on some fairly heavy wooden gates.
Tension Cable 2.jpg
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9FUTL1/?tag=atomicindus08-20)
If you search Amazon for "stainless wire crimper" you get what appears to be the same tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lichamp-Stai...-Crimping/dp/B08BZT9P74/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

WoodsTruck

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I bought that same yellow cased crimping tool.
Right or wrong, I like to just trap the end of the cable flush with the crimp sleeve so there are no loose sharp cable ends protruding. If I'm concerned about stregth, I'll add 2 just so I don't need a band-aid everytime I look at the cable end.
 

PugetDude

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Cutoff wheel in a Dremel works great to cut the protruding end flush. I shove a thin piece of aluminum (think license plate) in between the cables so I don't inadvertently cut through and damage the working side. Easier to pull the eyelet smaller and tighter when you have the tail to grab onto.
 

bugnut

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If you only need a few and have minimal strength requirements, these are common in the jig and fixture world and can be bought already assembled some are even coated wire. Carr Lane is my source ref catalogue pg 42

But hey what would GJ be without adding tools to the arsenal!
 
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rattle_snake

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Well another disappointing mechanical failure with old Ford last weekend. Drove up to flagstaff and when almost there truck started to blink the lean condition on the AFR gauge. Was still driving OK at 75 MPH. Stopped for fuel and it would barely accelerate and die idling. Limped to Autozone in search of a O2 sensor, as the original Bosch unit had failed once already. Found one at Napa, did parking lot swap but problem persisted. Drove to camp and after cooling down did basic checks. Found one fuel injector not spraying in it's bore. Know for connector issues but that was ok. Pulled it out, inspected, swapped for next door, and issue followed injector. It's a 100 lb/hr unit likely not used in any OEM vehicle (v8 are like 20-30 lbs ). The dual plane intake (although the nitros plate is 'open') directs half the cylinder to one side of the plenum, so the dead injector results in 4 holes at 1/2 fueling. Too lean to me for 180 miles including 7% grades. Ended trip early on Saturday to get start on tow home.

I knew that Holley QC is nowhere near any of the OEMs, and that no parts houses would have anything, but I did it anyway. Same story for other aftermarkets systems. The 1990s Ford 460 OEM stuff is ancient and unreliable/harder to find also.

Easy fix, $50 injector. Need a spare so buy 2 or replace all 4? 6.5k miles.

cAaLU9aJla4MHqCx2tfxA=w715-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 

OutlawDrifter

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Can they give you any details on the manufacturer of the injector? The more I'm hearing about these TBI setups the more I think piecing together something with OEM components/ECU sounds better.

I'm not sure all 4 are necessary, but having a spare might not be a bad idea.
 

ntsqd

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I'm not a fan of wet flow EFI, designated injector for each cylinder is my preference. If nothing else, there are a lot of very good injectors on the market for this type of application. I've been told to look at Bosch Motorsports DV 14's for my 408 project. Previously I was told to buy a specific Siemens Deka injector from a mail order vendor who happens to be here in town. Some of either of these injectors will run up there in that lbs/hr range from what I've seen listed. How well they actually do that I've no idea.

Some years ago there was an email list dedicated to using the Ford eec-IV ECU on engines that Ford never dreamed of. Those guys knew that hardware inside-out and upside down. They claimed it capable of anything that any aftermarket ECU could do if you knew how.

Friend of mine up in WA just went thru a bunch of... um, stuff? getting his Term-X system to run right on a 464ci SBF. Finally found a guy with a chassis dyno and years of Term-X experience. Part of his problem was waste spark coils with a cam position sensor in place of the dizzy. Only one Holley tech even knew how to help him, the others were a total loss. (I suspect mostly because he wasn't building an LS and that's all that they know.)

Not sure what the best solution is, but good aftermarket EFI ECU's are expensive for a reason. 15+ years ago when I was working at APT our EFI guru considered Motec to be the bottom end of acceptable. We could make him to foam at the mouth and become incoherent by suggesting that a Holley EFI would fix our problems. :)
 

ntsqd

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If you only need a few and have minimal strength requirements, these are common in the jig and fixture world and can be bought already assembled some are even coated wire. Carr Lane is my source ref catalogue pg 42

But hey what would GJ be without adding tools to the arsenal!
I've not found a way to navigate their page by page number. Can you provide a more direct link?
 

plain2car

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sounds like Justin is going to give Randy a call.... I bet Randy can get a smokin' deal on a godzilla! ;) Justin, if/when you make a trip his direction let me know & i'll be happy to help and be a navigator!! ;):ROFLMAO:
 

XJSuperman

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I think the best fix is a Godzilla motor. New and supported. Bolts to trans no adapters.

But

If I did that it would be better sell what I have and start over with another truck.

My buddy is about to do a Godzilla swap is in d60 SAS 1981 Bronco. He said most of it is plug and play

Hell yeah! Yes. But don't sell the truck and start over.
 
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rattle_snake

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Time again to change oil in the boat. Using vacuum pump is slow. Warming engine beforehand doesn't help much. To speed up, I made an adapter to use the threaded fitting on the dipstick itself, to the larger tubing on pump. Before I used the provided smaller diameter tube to insert into the dipstick, which incurs a restriction. Significant improvement.
d5-1EoCDn3RAfUDq3VHnA=w715-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Impeller, fuel filter and drive oil yet to go.
plNgtB8M5YXI8hHo5U5PQ=w715-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Boosted, yes thanks I should acknowledge that. Easy to get frustrated with issues beyond my control. Hopefully the bucket of those is close to empty for this truck. I try to make sure I enjoy the journey, otherwise there is no point in it.

I went ahead and bough a whole set of four injectors should be delivered today. Interestingly Holley doesn't really sell 'replacement' injectors for there throttle body products. They are considered non-serviceable. Just 2 screws on the rail but getting things lined up and no wires pinched can take a few attempts. Evidently that is beyond DIY capabilities. Holley does sell individual and sets of injectors of many sizes including 100lb/ hr, so easy to buy at summit or others. The injector connectors are ****, some soft material, I broke the lock tab off just touching it.

To add to the stress and anxiety of the original situation, I found that the starter clocking screws had come loose when I was trying to swap out the O2 sensor at Autozone. The starter had rotated and pinched the O2 wiring. I was able to rotate and resolve, but then realized how loose it was... Oh boy. Not good when it wouldn't stay running. Had to drive with both feet to keep it alive.
Last night I pulled the starter out and put some locktite on the fasteners. The upper bolt is a total *****, next time the right header comes out I'm going to cut the trans housing to make it easier. It occurred to me that the starter is a 'single point of failure' and that I should carry a spare, especially since the adapter plate requires a non-supported pinion type.
 

OutlawDrifter

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The one big downside to a custom setup...common repair parts.

You know...a big cube LS stroker swap would solve A LOT of these issues ;)...hell a GM 6L80E would bolt right up to a 454 or 8.1L based engine 🤷‍♂️...you Ford guys got it tough, but still better than the MOPAR camp!
 

zmotorsports

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The one big downside to a custom setup...common repair parts.

You know...a big cube LS stroker swap would solve A LOT of these issues ;)...hell a GM 6L80E would bolt right up to a 454 or 8.1L based engine 🤷‍♂️...you Ford guys got it tough, but still better than the MOPAR camp!


^^^Marc, THAT was the exact point I was trying to make in my thread earlier today about why my son chose to go with a stock remanned engine. Repairability as well as reliability are paramount on something that is driven long distances, especially to small out of the way places. I think somewhere in my son's 32 years now he was paying attention to my rants about such things when people would bring their broken toys to me to repair with very bespoke parts. There is nothing wrong with building custom one-off parts for race vehicles or toys that will be heavily inspected before and after various races and or trips. But add those parts to a daily driver or worse, a tow rig, and you have a recipe for walking.

I think I've told the story in my thread about how I learned my lesson back in the mid-80's when I had built up my first truck using many hi-performance parts and accessories. I had a Mallory distributor coupled with an MSD ignition box and during a wheeling trip to Moab with my buddy and his brother I developed a miss that ultimately ended up in a failed ignition system. After unsuccessfully locating the required parts in the big metropolis of Moab (keep in mind this is also mid-80's and not recent), I ended up buying a remanned HEI GM ignition and switching everything back over to OE setup to finish out the trip and eventually drive the 250 miles back home.

That learning opportunity, as stressful as it was, forged my way of thinking even to this day about such parts, when to use them and more importantly, when NOT to use them.
 

ntsqd

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Most industries call it "MTBF" (Mean Time Before Failure) and they have run studies and done experiments to know what the average service life of their parts is. I am convinced that very few in the hot-rod parts industry even have an understanding of this.
A big thrust in my projects is to make the wear parts unmodified, common parts. It's the bits connecting them together that can be custom.

I failed at this with my recent rear disc brake conversion using Expedition parts as I had to modify the rotors to make them work at all. So I made 3 of them.
 

zmotorsports

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Most industries call it "MTBF" (Mean Time Before Failure) and they have run studies and done experiments to know what the average service life of their parts is. I am convinced that very few in the hot-rod parts industry even have an understanding of this.
A big thrust in my projects is to make the wear parts unmodified, common parts. It's the bits connecting them together that can be custom.

I failed at this with my recent rear disc brake conversion using Expedition parts as I had to modify the rotors to make them work at all. So I made 3 of them.

Agreed. I am fortunate because in my day job we were able to document many such cases and analyze them for MTBF or "average failure intervals" after collecting quite a lot of data. An example would be alternator failures on our OTR trucks. We could fairly accurately determine replacement mileage with a high level of confidence from the data we had collected knowing there was a high failure rate after *** number of miles. When our company was purchased several years ago, much of our data was used for such replacement intervals throughout the rest of the company. Granted there are always outliers, but we follow pretty standard replacement intervals and have very, very few breakdowns on the road.

I have followed the same logic with my personal fleet in the attempt to thwart off failures requiring roadside repair.
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin if the loctite doesn’t cut it I’d suggest using nordloc washers. I think we talked about these before but regardless these are perfect for connections that get subject to high heat and stretch then relax. It keeps the darn bolt or nut in place.

Thanks Cam, I don't think you shared those here. In this case the fasteners are flat head torx.
The one big downside to a custom setup...common repair parts.

You know...a big cube LS stroker swap would solve A LOT of these issues ;)...hell a GM 6L80E would bolt right up to a 454 or 8.1L based engine 🤷‍♂️...you Ford guys got it tough, but still better than the MOPAR camp!
Hard to argue but the Ford 7.3 godzilla is already stroked and bolts to my trans... It was not quite available or affordable when I started my 460 build.
The Holley injectors are 'LS' type but with different sized o-rings.
^^^Marc, THAT was the exact point I was trying to make in my thread earlier today about why my son chose to go with a stock remanned engine. Repairability as well as reliability are paramount on something that is driven long distances, especially to small out of the way places. I think somewhere in my son's 32 years now he was paying attention to my rants about such things when people would bring their broken toys to me to repair with very bespoke parts. There is nothing wrong with building custom one-off parts for race vehicles or toys that will be heavily inspected before and after various races and or trips. But add those parts to a daily driver or worse, a tow rig, and you have a recipe for walking.

I think I've told the story in my thread about how I learned my lesson back in the mid-80's when I had built up my first truck using many hi-performance parts and accessories. I had a Mallory distributor coupled with an MSD ignition box and during a wheeling trip to Moab with my buddy and his brother I developed a miss that ultimately ended up in a failed ignition system. After unsuccessfully locating the required parts in the big metropolis of Moab (keep in mind this is also mid-80's and not recent), I ended up buying a remanned HEI GM ignition and switching everything back over to OE setup to finish out the trip and eventually drive the 250 miles back home.

That learning opportunity, as stressful as it was, forged my way of thinking even to this day about such parts, when to use them and more importantly, when NOT to use them.
I been thinking along these lines recently. The particular group on last event all drive late model Toyotas. Can't argue with the dependability of those platforms. Lower power, small tires. You get there, maybe slower or stack more rocks, but get there and back home.
But for me that is just too boring I guess. I want something that cannot be bought. Big power, big tires, unique.

Although I have left my boat and 2014 F250 completely stock. So I'm kind of growing up.

I have been re-assessing what I want to do with the truck. The original intent wasn't to drive hundreds of miles to wheeling areas. More local places, home depot, drive to work. For that is checks all the boxes, it is my DD. But now I want to do the typical bucket list trails (Moab, Rubicon, Glamis ect) and all are long drives, and not trailer it. For this the old Ford is not ideal.
Most industries call it "MTBF" (Mean Time Before Failure) and they have run studies and done experiments to know what the average service life of their parts is. I am convinced that very few in the hot-rod parts industry even have an understanding of this.
A big thrust in my projects is to make the wear parts unmodified, common parts. It's the bits connecting them together that can be custom.

I failed at this with my recent rear disc brake conversion using Expedition parts as I had to modify the rotors to make them work at all. So I made 3 of them.
Yes the aftermarket auto industry doesn't have the quality standards or requirement that the OEM have. A single point failure is different than MTBF, it is like it sounds in that one part can bring down the whole system. In Nuclear safety world this is unacceptable and redundancy is required.

The chip company I work for sells to the big auto manufacturer suppliers (like Bosch, Mahle). We have MTBF reports and others for our chips. The suppliers all have a zero defect policy. Build a million, but if one fails for any reason, the root cause must be found and corrected. They send us the failed part or board and we have to figure out root cause and update test programs to prevent future problems. Expensive process.
 
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rattle_snake

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This would be how I would dream/build a long range wheeler.

Buy a 2020+ F250/F350 with the 7.3 gas engine. Single cab fleet truck, 4x4. Then do the following
  • If not with 4.30s, re-gear as needed, lockers
  • 40" rubber
  • minimal lift and cut fenders to fit 40s
  • Upgrade the radius arms and resolve any steering geometry
  • Link the rear
  • cut frame off behind axle
  • Interior cage
  • Modify/bob a utility bed
  • bumpers and whatnot
  • Paint it something other than white.
 

OutlawDrifter

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This would be how I would dream/build a long range wheeler.

Buy a 2020+ F250/F350 with the 7.3 gas engine. Single cab fleet truck, 4x4. Then do the following
  • If not with 4.30s, re-gear as needed, lockers
  • 40" rubber
  • minimal lift and cut fenders to fit 40s
  • Upgrade the radius arms and resolve any steering geometry
  • Link the rear
  • cut frame off behind axle
  • Interior cage
  • Modify/bob a utility bed
  • bumpers and whatnot
  • Paint it something other than white.

Someone down there would probably pay you big money for the Green Monster in your shop...there's your funds for the new build.
 

OutlawDrifter

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And don't be hatin' on the white!!! Ford did it well in the past!

Disco.Blanco.dirt.jpg

1979-ford-bronco-ranger-xlt-4-x-4.jpg

1979-ford-f-150-4x4.jpg


My dad's cousin actually had a '79 Bronco in black with the side graphics like that and a '79 F250 to match with a slide in camper and winch bumper on the front.
 

ntsqd

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Friend of mine up in WY is building something close to that. Ex fleet service F-250 4x4 (radius arms & coils vintage), 5.4L, he's got a doubler for it, going with 40's, plans to put the cab only from a Sport-Trac on it (instead of boat-siding the F-250 cab and then trying to get it to seal for cold/wet weather use - which it never will).
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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This would be how I would dream/build a long range wheeler.

Buy a 2020+ F250/F350 with the 7.3 gas engine. Single cab fleet truck, 4x4. Then do the following
  • If not with 4.30s, re-gear as needed, lockers
  • 40" rubber
  • minimal lift and cut fenders to fit 40s
  • Upgrade the radius arms and resolve any steering geometry
  • Link the rear
  • cut frame off behind axle
  • Interior cage
  • Modify/bob a utility bed
  • bumpers and whatnot
  • Paint it something other than white.

I'd love to do the same thing. Ever since the Ultimate Adventure truck back in the day, I think a lot of us have had this dream.
 
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rattle_snake

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Received some replacement tweeters for my cobra mustang. Dayton Audio titanium dome. Popped in the new one and tested it out. Made a crackle and that was it. ****. Cut it back out and measured the coil, open. The tweeters are on their own amp channels, and it appears one channel is damaged. DC current is about the only thing that would do that. I had previously measured all the channels AC and DC. Anyhow the new set is junk now, and I also need to replace the amplifier.
kldHXoj3hdVZWAa__TfA=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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And don't be hatin' on the white!!! Ford did it well in the past!
My dad's cousin actually had a '79 Bronco in black with the side graphics like that and a '79 F250 to match with a slide in camper and winch bumper on the front.
I kinda dig those graphics now. Too bold for today blandness.
Hah nice! I actually just made the same thing with an old Mastercraft seat I bought for cheap and an old office chair base.
Sounds like a good setup. I don't see my $120 chair lasting long that would be next step.
 
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rattle_snake

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Starting construction on a few more speaker boxes. Why? I like to play with math and tool I guess. Instead of junking my older half broken equipment I figured I could put it to use. Just need more speakers.

The Line6 75+75W head I have works OK with the instrument/PA type 10", but lacks low frequencies when using an octave processor (freq halfer) with the bass. There is no low cut filter and things distort. Plan is to add a cheap single 15" subwoofer, and run it and the 10's on the USA400 (200w+200w) and the working half of a crossover. Constructing a sealed enclosure for the 15 and also building a new box for the 10s that will match the width and style of the head and sub. My chop saw cart will be cut down and turned into a 19" rack.

Started construction of 15 box. Still deciding on style, considering making some type of metal frame/grill. Paint, fabric, who knows.
qLjQ2zj9UeZ2CBPAyGZQ=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
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