rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Quad needed some new suspension bushings and tires. The bushing are relatively new, but were hammed to pieces and completely missing again. So this time OEM Polaris bushings, see if they last.


I did the unthinkable and went down in tire size. Yes down to stock. The machine came with Razor wheels and tires of 2004 vintage. 26x11 and 26x9. Front didn't fit and had spacers. Lug nuts on by one thread. I removed the spacers, flipped the tie rods, installed longer studs and added a few washers to space the front tires off the strut. The left front tire was way out of balance an would shake hard over 40 mph. Left rear never held air and was plugged multiple times, with a new large leak. So it was time.
I went back to a 25x8 and 25x10. Machine has plenty of belly clearance. I'd rather have slightly lower CoG and lower effective gearing for better handling at higher speeds. New rubber is Carlstar (was Carlsile) AT489. The front tire section width is at least 2" narrower than the old. I was able to flip tie rods back and remove the washers. The old tires had a very square cross section, the new are more rounded. I'd guess the old tires were designed for a much heavier machine, SxS.


It steers noticeably easier, and seems to ride softer. No vibes up to 60 MPH. I could have bought cheaper tires, but went with what my tire guy could get quickly, which I think is extra money well spent. Hard to have good expectations of the cheapest possible option.
With tie rod flip I had to re-align the toe setting. I set it at zero measuring the discs.

 

[PugetDude]

Quad needed some new suspension bushings and tires. The bushing are relatively new, but were hammed to pieces and completely missing again. So this time OEM Polaris bushings, see if they last.


I did the unthinkable and went down in tire size. Yes down to stock. The machine came with Razor wheels and tires of 2004 vintage. 26x11 and 26x9. Front didn't fit and had spacers. Lug nuts on by one thread. I removed the spacers, flipped the tie rods, installed longer studs and added a few washers to space the front tires off the strut. The left front tire was way out of balance an would shake hard over 40 mph. Left rear never held air and was plugged multiple times, with a new large leak. So it was time.
I went back to a 25x8 and 25x10. Machine has plenty of belly clearance. I'd rather have slightly lower CoG and lower effective gearing for better handling at higher speeds. New rubber is Carlstar (was Carlile) AT489. The front tire section width is at least 2" narrower than the old. I was able to flip tie rods back and remove the washers. The old tires had a very square cross section, the new are more rounded. I'd guess the old tires were designed for a much heavier machine, SxS.


It steers noticeably easier, and seems to ride softer. No vibes up to 60 MPH. I could have bought cheaper tires, but went with what my tire guy could get quickly, which I think is extra money well spent. Hard to have good expectations of the cheapest possible option.
With tie rod flip I had to re-align the toe setting. I set it at zero measuring the discs.

Justin, I have quite a few of those pavers left over from my back patio remodel if you need any more.

 

[rattle_snake]

Scott, thanks for the offer, I appreciate it. I have some leftovers and quite a stash of the older style (there is a old/new seam right in front of the quad). Tried a few times to get paver crew back to put them down at the barn. Now there is something living underneath the stacks of pavers. It has dug out almost a wheelbarrow of dirt into a pile next to the hole. Need to get them gone or put to use. Knee surgery coming up in a few weeks so nothing going to happen soon.

I have wanted to build a lean-to on the west side of my barn to park the quad and/or riding mover in. Might use the pavers I have for that. Just need time and money.

 

[rattle_snake]

Started on speaker box v2.0 for the '76 F100. Not loud enough, adding a second subwoofer. I bought a used Rockford P3SD2-10 on ebay to go with the one I had.
The existing enclosure has a design flaw, that I did intentionally without really considering the negative aspect. I put the resonant frequency of the box below that of the speaker to extend the low frequency output. It performed as expected, however the system is 'un-loaded' below the driver's resonant frequency. Un-loaded as in it has minimal damping (because it's at resonance) and flops around wildly at max excursion, where damage occurs. Works fine at low power but is literally out of control at any decent volume to overcome the loud/low frequency exhaust.

So, to fix the design, simply shorten the port. It's on the outside, super easy. But the system still won't really meet my needs in terms of output to overcome the exhaust/windows down scenario. Plenty of power to beat speaker to death. Only practical solution is another driver or different/larger driver(s). Cheapest option is another of the same. Even at 600 W each, they are over powered and have to be careful not to damage. A sealed box does this very well, provides dampening to protect against high excursion. Sealed box output is significantly lower compared to a vented design with a peaky Q. I need all the SPL I can get. Driver Fs is 40 Hz, so realistically it's low frequency performance is limited to around that. Put the sub-sonic (high pass) brick wall filter around 30 to protect. Pick 45 Hz as a comparison point.

sealed, half a cubic foot. 107.8 db @ 45 Hz


Vented, 0.65 net volume (minus port and driver volume) 113.8 @ 45 Hz


And the mathematical models gives the difference of 6 db as expected. 6 db is 2x, which is huge. Can't put any more power to them, already way past what excursion they will handle. So total gain in SPL is 3 from modified vented design and 6 from the 2nd driver. 9 db = 2.8x SPL

The maximum realistic volume of a speaker box behind the seat is 0.8 per side. Port and driver displacement cuts this to 0.65. Box volume, port length and port area are all dependent on one another, so nasty differential equations (**** that) or try some values and back calculate. The swept volume or amount of air moved dictates the cross sectional size of the port to keep air velocity low enough to not be audible. A 4" tube is appropriate, but won't physically fit anywhere but the bottom outside edge of the wedge shaped box. The only place the speakers will physically fit is also at the bottom for enough depth. The amps won't physically fit unless recessed into face, which is impractical at the top. To solve this, make port area close enough and place at top of outer edge, like this


Some clampage to adhere the baffle. need more clamps I think.

 

[rattle_snake]

Adding surge tank on the 72 F250. Bought the same cheap $20 aluminum catch can, vented lid. Like the F100 the right side of the engine bay is stuffed full and left side is empty, so placing can on the left with the A/C dryer. I though about mounting the can piggyback style to the dryer and it's mount, but access to cap was poor. So made yet another clamp bracket.

Slice of 3" 16 gauge exhaust pipe, cut on weld seam. Welded a nut and a slice of DOM to make it a band clamp. Found an existing hole in core support that was in right location, but blind hole in double wall area, so rivnut. But rivnutz sit above base, and makes for a ****** mount, especially only one. The only clamping area is the rivnut itself. So to mitigate that I used my homebrew 5/16 rivnut dimple die to make a relief in the mounting tab, so the entire face of the tab is clamped to the core support. Nice and solid.


Reservoir mounted. Had to slim down the 3/8 inlet tube on the can for 5/16 hose.


Bent up a piece of 5/16 hardline and secured with two p-clamps. Switched over to zinc instead of the green plastic coated stuff, doesn't match the rest. Put a ****** on both ends using an inverted flare die, and an oetiker clamp.


While paint was drying I removed the existing overflow hard line. Luckily the guy that last worked on it used rivnuts for shroud mount, however the fastener selection was poor at best. Two types of socket heads, different sized keys needed, unacceptable. Pulled the line off and noticed it was plugged up tight. The cap is trash, I think chunks of rubber got pushed into line. Replaced all the shroud fasteners with regular hex head SS bolts, anti-seize. The bottom left bolt has almost zero head space, tried all sorts of tools ended up having to tape a short 1/4" drive torq bit to a wrench to get it out. Now it's just a bolt and can use ratcheting tools.

Sadly the engine bay is filthy, neglected. I've been just driving and enjoying it, dirt road miles. The steering box is leaking from the input shaft, and the left side of the bay is covered in nasty grime. So time to pull the box and do both seals, maybe tap and plug for hydro assist in the future.

 

[M.Brane]

I'm a big fan of acoustic suspension, but yeah reflex tomfoolery is an option when size matters.

I try to keep my rides clean, but not afraid to get them dirty. Leaks ****.

 

[zmotorsports]

Great job Justin.

When I was building ATV swingarms, I would use a pinch style carrier similar to your catch can pinch clamp. Since you have a lathe, you could machine some bullet style threaded sleeves in place of the weld-on nut. Many times I would machine the clamp, then the bullets and weld the bullets on before slitting the housing or clamp. Then slit the housing and the bullet at the same time to create the space needed to slide whatever component inside and that helped to not only control heat while welding but really gave it a nice finished off appearance as everything was symmetrical. Having a lathe to customize or fine tune the size and shape is beneficial. Just a thought.

 

[PhantomEB]

I had a 06 500ho for a long time, Overheated it due to clogged rad. She never was the same again even with replacement engine. Now I belong to the anything but Polaris group.

when I get back into ATVs it will be King Quad 750. Hate the 1000cc club too.

 

[ntsqd]

I've long used a t-bolt clamp or hose clamp with some sort of V shaped bracket for holding round things. This is the wagon's PS reservoir bracket:


Just another way to end up in the same place.

BTW the riv-nuts under that bracket are enjoying your riv-nut dimpling tool's flush divots.

 

[rattle_snake]

Hi Mike, interesting to cut the clamp after the HW is welded on. then all is aligned...

I looked into the T-clamps, but they can cost as much as the catch can they are holding. My 72 F250 would benefit from a decent P/S remote reservoir.

 

[zmotorsports]

Hi Mike, interesting to cut the clamp after the HW is welded on. then all is aligned...

Justin, the original reason was for aesthetics so everything would align and be symmetrical. However, after doing a few, I discovered that it was also quicker to throw a 1" long threaded bung on a tube OD and weld it, then cut it vs. the time it took trying to align two separate pieces and trying to align with a bolt and shims or spacers.

 

[rattle_snake]

While innocently observing @lilscorpion shop organization and hanging bracketry extraordinaire, I noted that he has multiple cordless routers each with a battery and bit ready to get to work. So I was thinking, I can have just one? Jealous? Hell yes.
And I need another battery. Or two. I saw the HD had a deal on a combo that for $200 I can get a free 2nd battery and charger. Didn't need any more chargers but the is new one appears to have more capacity/faster as it states '4 A' on the front.
I have a decently powerful Bosch 1/2" collet corded router that will hog though material, but it's heavy and hard to hold steady on smaller pieces. The little DeWalt seems like the right size for a lot of what I do.
And somehow I have inherited a pile of parts to build a CNC router. 3-phase with converter. 4'x8' 3-axis. Just need to build a table, some assembly required. Need the boat gone from the shop.

 

[rattle_snake]

Did some wiring clean up on the F250 now that the nitrous system has been removed.




Moved things around in the bed. Nitrous bottle gone, toolbox gone (with addition of 2nd underbed toolbox).
Made a simple bracket to secure water jug in a different location.


Moved the fuel can forward and put the water jug where it was.

 

[ntsqd]

Forgive the welds as they're cosmetically awful although they do seal. My glasses prescription was off and I realized that I'm to the point where I need a cheater lens in my helmet. But on the topic of needing a better PS reservoir, this from my FSB build thread:

I was never a great aluminum welder, but before my eyesight started to go I could do better than this. Oh well, beats the alternative to aging.....

MISF used one of these to make a coolant recovery tank ($20 on amazon) and it occurred to me that it was just about the perfect size for a PS reservoir:


I carefully cut it at a scientifically arrived at WAG and welded the -10AN bung to the bottom of it.


I wanted the top to have a mild conic shape and I needed the mid-disc to be that way. Ordered some Shore 90A 1/2" thick rubber from McMaster and made a press-forming tool from a rem:


Mid-disc:


I used the same bung and cap that MISF used for his recovery tank. Welded some -6AN bungs to short pieces of tubing and then welded those into tangentially milled cuts in the upper part of the paint cup. The 'candy cane' is a piece of 1/4" aluminum tubing that will become the reservoir's vent:


Shot of the mid-disc and the vent tube - it goes all of the way thru the bottom of the paint cup:


Top section welded together:


Welded assembly:

All that work and it didn't work. Have since done some digging and the next iteration won't have that 'candy cane' vent tube or the screw-on cap. Instead I plan to use a 0.8 Bar radiator cap & bung.

 

[Bodj Built]

Forgive the welds as they're cosmetically awful although they do seal. My glasses prescription was off and I realized that I'm to the point where I need a cheater lens in my helmet. But on the topic of needing a better PS reservoir, this from my FSB build thread:

All that work and it didn't work. Have since done some digging and the next iteration won't have that 'candy cane' vent tube or the screw-on cap. Instead I plan to use a 0.8 Bar radiator cap & bung.

Honestly, I'm 33 with pretty good eyesight, and I absolutely love using cheater lenses.

 

[ntsqd]

My steel beads showed a marked improvement once I installed the cheater. Have yet to try aluminum with it. I hope they'll improve, but I'm not sure that they could be much worse looking, so only direction is up!

 

[larry4406]

Interesting that you need tools to remove the fuel and water cans. I would have thought a tool-less method would be better. Fuel spout stored somewhere?

 

[rattle_snake]

The cans will not get used much. Takes longer to steal when bolted down.
With todays fuel not lasting long the gas can stays empty unless I'm going deep offroad and may need the capacity. Truck uses a lot of fuel when tires are aired down in the sand, low range. The water jug is more of an emergency supply, radiator fill. Drinkable water. Yes I have a custom spout in one of the bedside toolboxes.

 

[hbabler]

I've long used a t-bolt clamp or hose clamp with some sort of V shaped bracket for holding round things. This is the wagon's PS reservoir bracket:


Just another way to end up in the same place.

BTW the riv-nuts under that bracket are enjoying your riv-nut dimpling tool's flush divots.

Was there ever a 2.0 version of the riv-nut dimple tool? I really want to buy one but wow the commercial ones are high.

 

[ntsqd]

I didn't know that the riv-nut dimpling tool is something that could be purchased. Have a link?

Easy to make with a lathe. Assuming no lathe it may be possible to assemble one from selected spacers, a heavy flat washer, and a bolt & nut.

 

[zmotorsports]

On sheet metal I have generally used a Dzus style dimpler which works well. In 3/16" and up material, I will generally just use an end mill matching the OD of the rivnut and machine a step in the bracket.

 

[ntsqd]

I had to make one of those, too. The guys on the school's SAE Mini-Baja team had no clue such a thing existed and couldn't figure out what they needed to form that shape.

 

[hbabler]

Riv Nut Recess Dimple Die Set - 3 Piece

These are the best quality made in the USA dimple dies available. These dies are designed to recess the flange of a riv nut in a sheet metal panel. This allows you to bolt two panels together without the obstruction of a riv nut head. These dies are CNC machined from 4140 Pre-hard alloy steel...

shop.hammerfab.com

Here is the version I found.

I may try and rig something up with some spacers and a washer!

 

[WoodsTruck]

I needed to recess the heads of some wood screws in a sheet of 1/8" aluminum.
I used an 1/8" Stanley punch, 2 stop collars and a stepped hole in a 1/2" piece of steel and a 12 ton press.
YMMV.

 

[ntsqd]

For creating the dimples for a 10-32 riv-nut with, as I recall, a slightly under 1/2" OD flange (Check me on this!) I think this combo will work:
One of these washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/91201A029/
One each of these:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Plus a 1/4-28 G8: https://www.mcmaster.com/92620A567/ & nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/94895A805/
Even at McMaster prices $32 still beats $185 by a lot!
Can likely buy just what you need at a local hardware store.
I'd drill the first hole for 1/4" clearance, and then open it up to the size needed for the riv-nut after the dimple is created.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished the speaker box for the 76 F100


Stuffing to increase dampening, similar to having more air in the box (bigger box).

 

[rattle_snake]

Added courtesy lights under the cab tied to dome light/door switch.

 

[rattle_snake]

New plain headliner instead of the Ford racing flag over the beat down original.

 

[rattle_snake]

Rotated tires....

 

[hbabler]

For creating the dimples for a 10-32 riv-nut with, as I recall, a slightly under 1/2" OD flange (Check me on this!) I think this combo will work:
One of these washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/91201A029/
One each of these:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Plus a 1/4-28 G8: https://www.mcmaster.com/92620A567/ & nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/94895A805/
Even at McMaster prices $32 still beats $185 by a lot!
Can likely buy just what you need at a local hardware store.
I'd drill the first hole for 1/4" clearance, and then open it up to the size needed for the riv-nut after the dimple is created.

Thank you! I’ll get it ordered and put together

 

[M.Brane]

Rotated tires....

Done a few burnouts eh?

 

[ntsqd]

Thank you! I’ll get it ordered and put together

Since I haven't done it that way I'm interested in your results. Please, please check that I have the right OD's.

Done a few burnouts eh?

Curious that the tire with little tread is taller than the tire with a lot of tread.

 

[PugetDude]

Curious that the tire with little tread is taller than the tire with a lot of tread.

Repeated centrifugal radial rubber reorientation.

 

[rattle_snake]

Ya, just a few burnouts.... I'm half way there.

I also enjoy doughnuts and a little drifting. The spool is predictable. I'm pretty surprised how well the rear leaf suspension does. No hop. The clamps and new shocks seems to do the job OK.

 

[rattle_snake]

Steering box was leaking from input shaft on 72 F250. The box came from junkyard for $15 and wasn't leaking at that time, but ready for new seals.
Drilled a hole and used a screw to pull the dust shield and oil seal out. DOM to drive new back in.


Also did sector shaft seals while out. Chased the threads and cleaned up the splines for some fresh anti-seize. Installed the pitman arm on bench and torqued to 200 ft*lb.

 

[hbabler]

Since I haven't done it that way I'm interested in your results. Please, please check that I have the right OD's.

Curious that the tire with little tread is taller than the tire with a lot of tread.

I will grab a riv nut from the shop and check it before ordering and I’ll let you know how it works

 

[rattle_snake]

Over the long weekend my friend and I worked on cleaning up and resealing his gen 4 BBC that is going into a jet boat. He wanted to make sure it ran, however I suggested pulling the heads off and inspecting instead. If bore/rings/valves are all good, it shall start. After a few rounds of degreaser we started on pulling the heads off. All the head bolts go into water jacket and were rusted in good. Neither of my impacts would remove the bolts. Had to fight them out one at a time with 3' breaker bar. Eventually broke one.


Good new was that the engine has almost no wear on it. No ridge at top of bore. 4.25 bore, standard. OEM steel head gaskets, GM morse style timing chain. So original factory motor never touched. Supposedly came out of a boat.


Block has 4-bolt main bearing caps. Got the front cover, pan, and intake installed and shot it with a few coats of paint. Intake is for a quadrajet, carb that came with it is a Summit mech secondary 4100 style.

 

[SMOKEYBEAR]

I've been waiting for the jet boat project

 

[rattle_snake]

Finally got to use my new oil tank on my stuff.

 

[rattle_snake]

LED exterior light swap on F100, $100 for all.