rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

I've been going over my 9x 20 lathe, cleaning and tightening things up. Got everything dialed in except the carriage wheel slop, backlash. The manual has no mention, I've found some resources with modifications and improvements but not for this specifically.
Here is the apron;

 

[ntsqd]

Assuming that the shaft to bearing fit is already optimized then short of adapting an anti-backlash spur gear to that drive I don't know that there is any cure for it.

I suppose that you could machine an eccentric carrier for that shaft that would allow some vertical adjustment to take some of the backlash out of the system, but there's an upper limit to what you can do and I suspect that those fruit aren't worth the effort involved.

 

[rattle_snake]

Most of the slop is between the rack mounted on the bed, and #10 above (pinion?)

 

[ntsqd]

Am thinking that it's the rack and #2 with maybe a little between #2 and #31 partly courtesy of #32 due to how it fits in the other parts.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made a no-tool fastener for bandsaw vice


Ground down the stop bump in prep for adding and outfeed table.


Added 4" of table. More is always better, but makes machine wider.


Crude but it works. Shim to adjust.


Ideas from here. Next is a measure.

4" x 6" Harbor Freight Bandsaw Chip Tray Bracket - 3D Print

Hi All - In case anyone is thinking about making a chip tray for their 4 x 6 band-saw and has access to a 3d printer, I just posted STLs on Printables (link below) for one I designed. The STLs files are free to download. I have been using it several months now and it does a good job capturing...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[rattle_snake]

Am thinking that it's the rack and #2 with maybe a little between #2 and #31 partly courtesy of #32 due to how it fits in the other parts.

Yes, #2 not #10.

 

[ntsqd]

Yer gonna shame me into finally pushing Go! on a new whole cart for my roughly 35 Y.O. Rong-Fu....

 

[rattle_snake]

That is how things work here.....

 

[rattle_snake]

Side note on the outfeed table, it can block cutting at an angle. I rushed through the process and just used what I had laying around. Needs to have the fence removable, yet location pinned.

 

[rattle_snake]

Decided to leave the wideband in the F100 for now. Nitrous tuning.
The instrument needed to be secured, and better looking install. Made a gauge pod out of 2" ABS pipe, and a cap for the back.


Started with 2.5 OD Al and turned down the piece for press fit.


Perfect fit as-is.


1/4-20 riv nut, recessed.


Mounted to A-pillar with a link bar and a riv-nut. Opened up the passage through dash to accommodate the new wiring in addition to the tach harness.

 

[zmotorsports]

Beautiful job on the gauge mount Justin.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Mike. Sometimes temporary lasts a long time.

Lathe is nice and solid now. I took the cross feed, top slide and tool post apart for deep cleaning. Machined the gibs down to nice fit. Would love a bigger machine, no where to go at this time.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks Mike. Sometimes temporary lasts a long time.

Lathe is nice and solid now. I took the cross feed, top slide and tool post apart for deep cleaning. Machined the gibs down to nice fit. Would love a bigger machine, no where to go at this time.

Justin, when you make a "temporary" look as nice as you have it is easier to let them ride a bit longer than intended. It's those half-hearted attempts at temporary that I usually try to minimize time with and get the permanent solution in place.

 

[rattle_snake]

The coolant surge tank I used for 72 F250 is undersized. It allows air back into radiator cold, or it will puke hot. The siphon tube is not at the floor, so the effective volume is not 800 mL more like 500 mL.

There are many other flavors of cans but nothing quite perfect enough. So I decided to make my own out of aluminum, to see if it is practical to fab air tight with spool gun. Possible yes practical no.
I picked dimensions that fit well and yield about .86 gallons or 3.2 L which is 4x the capacity of the old. I'd guess effective capacity is 0.7 gallons.
Cut two pieces of 0.125 aluminum to make the six sides of a 5" x 5" x 8" box with a jig saw.


Bent the pieces into a 'C' shape with press brake, and welded together to form a box. Added one mounting tab to use as a ground point.


For the siphon tube I made a bung on the lathe cut for 5/8-18 threads with an O-ring pocket.


Cut a step on OD to sit flush in mounting hole. Welded in the bung and used it to pressurize the tank to check for leaks.


Robbed the cap off the old can.


Faced and turned a step the edge to fit flush.


Should have done this before enclosing box, and welded the back..


Used three rivnuts to secure the tank. Utilized the existing hole in core from the old.


I fought pin holes in a few areas for too long. Eventually I tried a punch on the pin holes and then peen the welds instead of just grinding. Put a plug in the cap and moved the overflow to the tank itself.


Like it was made to fit.

 

[zmotorsports]

Great job on the surge tank Justin. Looks like it belonged there the whole time.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Mike. I need to get into another TIG machine and back purge to do aluminum better. Spool gun works great for structure but thin and pinholes... Don't do it often enough to be any good for one small project.

I want to be able to repair and fab aluminum radiators, intake piping, fuel tanks, ect.

When I had argon tank on welder I accidently opened the C25 and emptied the tank. Dooh! It was already close to empty.
Anyhow went to LWS and swapped the tank for a full one. Drooling over some of the machines there.

I bought a female inert gas fitting and capped it so if the wrong tank gets turned on it won't flow any gas. Maybe I shouldn't use two regulators, have to swap one end or the other.

 

[rattle_snake]

V2.0 of the outfeed table. Fence is removable so saw can cut at an angle.


Fixed the lower to no need a shim and added a support.

 

[rattle_snake]

T handle shifter

 

[rattle_snake]

Made some full length rock sliders. 91" long. 2 x 4 x 0.188.


Frame plates welded to frame to spread the load.


Outrigger are 2 x 2 x 0.188. 75 lbs total per side.

 

[rattle_snake]

17x8 wheels and 255/40-17 rubber. Cast wheel Kenda tires $2200.
AR makes a version but they are expensive and wide tires put price towards $5k. I want to be able to enjoy and get a little crazy, might hit a curb, tires are going to get used up.


Going from 28" to 25" tire make the gearing more ridiculous. 3k RPM at 55... not good. Should have done the 245/45-17 I was considering. Dent wheel opening are big and wheel/tire looks small. I have some ideas on how to fix that.


Made flush caps on lathe.


Using wheel adapters with early mustang fitment wheels. 5x5.5 to 5x4.5. 4.75 BS.

 

[Mr.zippy]

Made some full length rock sliders. 91" long. 2 x 4 x 0.188.


Frame plates welded to frame to spread the load.


Outrigger are 2 x 2 x 0.188. 75 lbs total per side.

If this bad boy needs rock sliders, you are in some serious ****!

 

[rattle_snake]

If this bad boy needs rock sliders, you are in some serious ****!

Yes already smashed in the toolbox door on the right side. Can't see that side. Had a spotter but that's how it goes.

Now with toolbox on both sides, protect them and the door rockers.

 

[rattle_snake]

Brake booster went out on the F100. Instead of a reman vac, hydroboost. New Motorcraft HB, new GM type 2 pump, High pressure hose and steel hose ends. Should be a big improvement in assist and braking capability.

 

[LXCam]

17x8 wheels and 255/40-17 rubber. Cast wheel Kenda tires $2200.
AR makes a version but they are expensive and wide tires put price towards $5k. I want to be able to enjoy and get a little crazy, might hit a curb, tires are going to get used up.


Going from 28" to 25" tire make the gearing more ridiculous. 3k RPM at 55... not good. Should have done the 245/45-17 I was considering. Dent wheel opening are big and wheel/tire looks small. I have some ideas on how to fix that

Made flush caps on lathe.


Using wheel adapters with early mustang fitment wheels. 5x5.5 to 5x4.5. 4.75 BS.

I made the same error when I lowered my ram. Within a couple weeks I got sick enough of it looking like a roller skate I swapped them out.

Trucks are looking great Justin and happy new year!

 

[ntsqd]

Going to wing it on mounting up the T2 pump, or have you found someone making a bracket? I kind of wish that I'd gone with the T2 pump on the FSB, but the canned ham was easy.

 

[rattle_snake]

I made the same error when I lowered my ram. Within a couple weeks I got sick enough of it looking like a roller skate I swapped them out.

Trucks are looking great Justin and happy new year!

Thanks Cam.
Not wanting a flatbiller giant wheel rubber band tire look like most of the C10s. I'd pick 18x9.5 18x11 if I was willing to spend $5k.
Bumpside wheel opening as small. So I made then big for a 4x4. You can guess what's going to happen to this dent, one of a kind.

Going to wing it on mounting up the T2 pump, or have you found someone making a bracket? I kind of wish that I'd gone with the T2 pump on the FSB, but the canned ham was easy.

Yes that is the only way I know? Do it multiple times. CNC plasma is almost cheating though.
I'm not sure a T2 pump is really better in an off road application. For this street truck it's compact.
Canned ham is easily modified for free. Iron housing/bores for longer life.

 

[ntsqd]

The T2 on the Wagon Lee PS set to 3.0 GPH and I think it's set at 1700 psi. Might be marginal for a Trophy Truck, but for a mild off-roader with H-B and no ram I'm thinking that it will be enough. Time will tell.

 

[rattle_snake]

Starting with mounting of the hydroboost unit on 76 F100. Used a air chisel to get the lock nut off the HB, and removed the superduty application mount plate.
Cut out a new plate from 3/16 with a 3.25 x 2.125 pattern for the 76 firewall.




Added key tabs to the new bracket to clock the HB unit correctly.


Spacers. Measured the pedal arms; 5 3/16" on vac booster lever arm thingy, 7" HB. So difference is 1 13/16" to put pedal at same location as before. The pedal has two holes, it was configured to use the one that puts the pedal higher. Used 3/8 x 5/8 DOM and faced them on the lathe.


Welded the spacer captive to the plate, however makes installation difficult so cut them back off later.


Brake pedal bolt adapter. The bolt shoulder is 0.557. The ID of the HB arm is 0.636. Odd dimensions. Found a bronze flange bushing that was close that could be machined. Bored out the ID, turned the OD down to fit. Not much left.


Fasteners needed were about 3". Bought some G8 bolts and some black oxide studs. Can only get 3 of the four bolts into plate with HB installed, so went studs. Stuggled to get things aligned so knocked the spacers off and let them float.


Drained and removed the mater cylinder as the lines no longer fit properly. The vac booster moved the MC up from the pedal rod level. HB does not. The lines could be used but I want custom fit.
The actuator rod between the HB and MC is application specific. It was 0.080" too long. Easy to just grind the tip off in place, but I wanted to do a nicer job and removed the rod. Getting the retainer out is a PITA. I got it out but I launched it and the spring to the ceiling. Couldn't find the retainer, dooh! Cleaned up the whole area, eventually found it on top of one of the speaker boxes hanging from ceiling. Shaved off a little at a time until perfect fit.


Got the HB unit mounted, pedal connected and MC bolted up.

 

[plain2car]

Justin, great job on the sliders! it was cool to "see" you at the local big box home improvement store! I work there part time (weekends) for beer... eeerrrr truck money & I get a discount on home stuff to boot!! next time you decide to visit ask for "frank" and say "hi". hopefully you were able to find what you needed.

 

[senlow]

Brake pedal bolt adapter. The bolt shoulder is 0.557. The ID of the HB arm is 0.636. Odd dimensions. Found a bronze flange bushing that was close that could be machined. Bored out the ID, turned the OD down to fit. Not much left.

That seems dangerously thin for what appears to be a brittle oilite bushing. Is there a shoulder bolt with a smaller OD that would work?

 

[ntsqd]

Usually what would be in there is a nylatron bushing. Really not sure which would live longer.

 

[rattle_snake]

Didn't even know what oilite was. It does have drops of oil come out when you grind it, which was odd.
Not really concerned that it will fall apart any time soon and no big deal if it does. Maybe nylon is better. I can't remember what I did last time on '72 F250 HB install.

I can make my own shoulder bolt, spacer or modify one. but moving on to the other aspects of the swap and can revisit if needed.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, great job on the sliders! it was cool to "see" you at the local big box home improvement store! I work there part time (weekends) for beer... eeerrrr truck money & I get a discount on home stuff to boot!! next time you decide to visit ask for "frank" and say "hi". hopefully you were able to find what you needed.

Hey Frank, nice to have finally met you. Truck looks great.
I bough a small shop vac to keep my poor lathe clean. and added a air whip.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made some rear bedside protection skids to go with the rock sliders on 72 F250. Simple and removable.








Right side has more stuff to go around.

 

[zmotorsports]

Justin, do you think those will do much in terms of eliminating damage to the sheet metal bedside? Just curious because that is a lot of weight to come down on those skids and with only two horizontal fasteners holding them to the frame along with a rather lengthy tube extending perpendicular to the frame, it doesn't look like much support is being added compared to the amount of force applied if the truck comes down onto one. It appears as though the skid may just get pushed up into the sheet metal bedside, but I could be wrong. Just a question.

 

[rattle_snake]

Eliminate? No.
The intent is to provide some protection, while minimizing the visual aspect. Keep the body lines.
Coming down hard is going to smash them up into the bed, but still better than nothing. Sometimes the *** end slides over, and they should help somewhat with that. Or you back into something. Mild protection, a balance.
They are up pretty high. I can drive though things with 40s that the other trucks in the group drag through.

When I built the rear bumper I chose not to build a wrap around style and cut the lower bedsides off. While that style provides great protection, it wasn't done back in the 70s, 80s, more of a new thing that doesn't go with my vintage vibe.

I could have used the same 2x4 and 2x2 0.188 as the sliders and made the mount more robust, but doesn't go with the existing bumper lines. Not much room with leaf springs there. If I need to service the fuel fill or the exhaust the right side will likely have to come off. I bought a whole 20' stick of 4 x 0.188 so I used it.

Had I built it for offroad I'd cut the bed all up or not have one at all. Run a 4-link and bob the bed right behind the tire. Or a modified utility bed with boat sides.

The downside to sliders, exo cage, belly pans, bumper with stuff and armor in general is it adds weight. It relatively low, but heavy doesn't want to go up. With the added steel the truck is now 6000# without me.

 

[zmotorsports]

Makes sense Justin. I was just curious. Thanks for answering.

 

[rattle_snake]

Went camping at the lake a few weeks back. Got a bad tank of fuel and had to pull some timing out. When I went to but it back I noticed that the vac advance was not working, ruptured. So I finally changed over to using the EFI system to control timing, locked out the distributor.


Truck cruises 80 MPH easily up any grade. For a heavy old pig it drives pretty well and is comfortable.

 

[rattle_snake]

I was out in the desert doing some shooting and backed my 2014 F250 rear diff into a boulder. Got hung up on the axle. No damage.
Since I already smashed in the front cover on the 72, I decided it was time to do the rear cover. This is the Ruff Stuff version, all 3/8 plate. heavy.


Surface is blanchard ground.


The machined pockets aren't quite enough for a hex socket, so used the socket heads I'm trying to get away from.
I put a whole gallon of 75/140 Synth gear oil in it. Could hold some more.

 

[rattle_snake]

Traction bar bushings have a hard life with big block torque and don't last long. Put in some new ones but also bought some Derlin ones to try next.
The lower is 2" 0.25" wall DOM. Heavy but protects the looong driveshaft.


The upper bushing has more load because it is farther from axle centerline.