rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[ntsqd]

I saw your intent as I've had the same general idea for a couple of projects. I do have the same structural concerns as Mike did. A couple simple changes could go a long ways. Get the flange at the frame to be the full height of the rail, the taller the better until you run out of frame height anyway. Put the bolts on the side(s) of the support. Top bolt is almost useless, bottom bolt(s) are crucial. Long diagonal cut tube(s) to make the support taper from rail height down to whatever fits/works at the 'slider' end or shorter if absolutely necessary for clearing stuff.

Some of the step bumpers from that era did come up the outside of, and slightly tight to the bed. Unfortunately they usually bolted to the bed at the front, but.....

You reminded me of a meme that I saw on GRM a couple days ago: "I bought the whole speedometer, so I'm going to use the whole speedometer!"

Detest socket heads too. Covers for the Wagon came with them. I used a cad plated version of this type of bolt instead:

Amazon.com: Bolts,Header,3/8IN.X 3/4IN. : Automotive

Buy Bolts,Header,3/8IN.X 3/4IN.: Header Bolts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[rattle_snake]

Couldn't make the frame flange full height due to leaf spring clearance. Only had the top to work with. And placed it to miss the pack clamp which put it right at the bed support. Pack clamp already hits the exhaust.

Probably do header aka small head/flange bolts when I do the locker. I could get a thin wall 1/2" socket on the bolt head, but only if perfectly centered, so I knew that wasn't going to work well or at all. I used to use SHCS for everything, because bling but I don't like working with them. Key size is a mystery and changes even within one thread size.

I've been shopping lockers for the Sterling 10.25. It has a clutch style LS carrier with unknown miles. Considering welding it. Cannot buy a lunchbox/spider type of locker for it (although the open or later 3 pinion LS one you can). The 2011+ 10.5 e-lockers fit and can be used in the older 10.25 housing. Used ones go for about $600 on ebay, and can get a whole axle assembly from junk yard for about the same. But the newer axle is wider, has a different bolt pattern, discs. New e-lock is $900, was half that not long ago.

I want full lock under throttle street and offroad so a Detroit style. The Yukon grizzly $750

 

[ntsqd]

If I have to use a socket head I try to use a Torx. I used to curse them until I was forced into using them. Now I see their simplicity. A T-30 is a T-30, it doesn't matter what the bolt size or thread pitch is. Or even if it is metric, a T-30 is still a T-30, a T-10 is a T-10 and so on.

Had a Yota 8" Detroit in a 112" WB and hated it on the pavement. Had a 14bff Detroit in a 130" WB and rarely knew it was there. Put ten times more miles on the yota Detroit than the 14bff and that soured me on them. I get why they're desirable, I'll just never want one again. Was it me I'd go with a used e-locker, hopefully locally sourced.

 

[rattle_snake]

My problem with e-lock on the street is that it's not locked unless you intentionally lock it. Detroit locks with the gas pedal. The truck spins the tire(s) too easy on takeoff from any type of corner. Off road the e-lock wins.

It would be possible to make an automated control system for an e-lock. Use wheel speed sensors (which the later axles have one on each wheel) to sense one tire fire (not just a turn) and lock the diff. but would do so under load, not sure they like that. The opposite of traction control, haha.

 

[ntsqd]

Doubt that the e-locker would be happy about repeatedly locking under differential speed. Maybe if you can first equalize the tire speeds using the brakes? Nah, that'll never happen.......
LOL

Maybe with AI the controller can develop a form of ESP and know when the skinny pedal is about to be used to create noise and rubber mayhem?

 

[WoodsTruck]

Maybe with AI the controller can develop a form of ESP and know when the skinny pedal is about to be used to create noise and rubber mayhem?

Like a weight sensor in the seat to know it's him plus a combination of ignition power "on" and vehicle in "D"?

 

[ntsqd]

Like a weight sensor in the seat to know it's him plus a combination of ignition power "on" and vehicle in "D"?

Yeah, that might do it!!!

 

[zmotorsports]

My problem with e-lock on the street is that it's not locked unless you intentionally lock it. Detroit locks with the gas pedal. The truck spins the tire(s) too easy on takeoff from any type of corner. Off road the e-lock wins.

It would be possible to make an automated control system for an e-lock. Use wheel speed sensors (which the later axles have one on each wheel) to sense one tire fire (not just a turn) and lock the diff. but would do so under load, not sure they like that. The opposite of traction control, haha.

Similar feelings here Justin. Off-road on a dual purpose vehicle, I'll take a selectable locker any day of the week and twice on Sunday. For strictly off-road it depends on the intended purpose of the vehicle.

For a street vehicle that has some power and will need the traction I'm a fan of the Eatons, either a Detroit Locker or preferably the Truetrac which are my go-to's. The downside to the Detroit in a light vehicle is the grabbing and barking on turns. Heavier vehicles pretty much negate that issue.

 

[rattle_snake]

Wish there was an easy way to improve the LS it has, but there isn't really a way to hot-rod the clutch pack like an 8.8 where you can use additional clutches with thin steels and 'cobra' carbon clutches instead of regular ones.

 

[rattle_snake]

Working on a steering pump bracket for a type 2 style pump over the big old Thompson unit.
Most aftermarket V-belt type brackets are pivot, but that makes the square-ish reservoir look crooked. So I came up with a sliding design.


There will be a 2nd fastener to the inside and an adjustment screw on the link to tension the belt.

 

[ntsqd]

+1 on the belt tension screw.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job on the sliding belt adjustment. We use that style a lot in the industrial environment. Simple and stout.

 

[rattle_snake]

Added the provisions for 2nd mount point. I was able to model it pretty close and fit well.




I was able to model the location pretty close and fit well. Clears the AN hoses.


Tensioner.


Added a 2nd return for the hydroboost with a bulkhead fitting.




Sanded the writing off the top of the cap. Cut up the old belt to measure for a shorter one.


Hose routing for now. Wish the pump was a bottom outlet. I have some leftover hose if I want to change things.

 

[Boosted1]

Nicely done.

 

[stinkity stoink]

Very impressive work.
Can you use the PTFE hose and ends from places like Speedway? I’m not sure if they can hold the pressure of the Hydro boost. I was just wondering.

 

[Bears Fan]

Awesome job on that bracket

 

[bugnut]

Awesome job on that bracket

 

[zmotorsports]

Awesome job on that bracket

Agreed. Well done Justin. Very nicely executed.

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice job on the sliding belt adjustment. We use that style a lot in the industrial environment. Simple and stout.

Thanks mike. With serpentine belts being the norm there aren't aftermarket sliders for v-belt, only pivot.

Nicely done.

Thanks!

Very impressive work.
Can you use the PTFE hose and ends from places like Speedway? I’m not sure if they can hold the pressure of the Hydro boost. I was just wondering.

Yes, if the system/hose is rated for the required pressure. Some are, some are not. Some steering system are below 1000 psi and others are over 1700.

The steel hose ends and hose I used are Allstar 'Power steering hose'

Allstar Performance ALL48270-6 Allstar Performance Power Steering Hoses | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Allstar Performance Power Steering Hoses with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Power Steering Hoses and Lines at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

For brakes and steering I use steel fittings. This product line also had aluminum fittings.

Awesome job on that bracket

Thanks! Being able to modify the design in CAD and just push a button for 2nd round is awesome.

Agreed. Well done Justin. Very nicely executed.

Thanks Mike.
Some issues along the way. 1st pump arrived with pulley front lip broken off. Can't remove pulley to service, so returning.
2nd pump was OK, but I could not get a wrench on the outlet fitting at all. Not even crow foot. So either move pulley forward a bit or remove the reservoir. I picked the pulley, put puller on it and it broke immediately. The casting is soft, porous and has inclusions. Import junk.

 

[rattle_snake]

With brake and steering sorted out turned my attention to the engine bay wiring on the drive side. Simplify, tuck away. I cut a hole in the inner fender to route the harness on the back side. But the bundle is a mess of knots and sticky tape.

Step one was to cut and move some things around. Removed the clutch pedal switch connector and it's jumper, instead just connect wires. But they don't need to go though the firewall. Neither do the other six wires for the duraspark module that isn't there. So I pulled those eight wires out of the bulkhead grommet but left them intact and sealed off with heat shrink. This left only 8 wires, so half as many. Pulled a piece of split braid through the grommet to protect and look nice. Untangled the lights, brake SW and WSW pump harnesses.


Now just a simple bend, no connectors, no harness.


Now the connectors are in the wheel well. Made a custom loop clamp to hold things away from tire. Extended the fuel pump/line lock harness to get connections out of sight and with the rest. Coiled up the WSW pump wiring until I get that system installed. Probably hide the whole deal in the fender.


Slimmed down the lighting harness to just the four wires and left it where it was. Maybe go back and put it on other side of fender later. Did another round of mask-n-paint to the firewall and inner fender. Looking much cleaner.

 

[rattle_snake]

After building a larger coolant surge tank for my 72 I circled back on the F100 which had the same turd. Really need a tig and back purge to do aluminum right, but money and stuff. So instead of a spool mig'd custom tank I joined all but the top of one tank and all but the bottom of the other. A tall boy.
I cut them in band saw and made a ring of aluminum as an internal sleeve. RTV to seal it up, then put the mounting clamp over the seam for extra robustness. 2x the volume I think it will do the job, which is enough to keep air from going back into system. Min level above the suction tube but not overflow hot.

 

[rattle_snake]

Added an overflow discharge tube to the coolant tank.


Extended with a hardline down to bottom of frame.


Drilled and tapped the cap for a plug.

 

[zmotorsports]

I like the rigid line Justin. I did the same thing on my coach, rigid line all the way except about 12" connecting the surge tank to the rigid line. No one will ever see it, but I think it looks cleaner.

 

[rattle_snake]

...No one will ever see it, but I think it looks cleaner.

story of my life

 

[rattle_snake]

Was running low on small DOM that I primary use as spacers. Had been using 26 ga sheet to sleeve 1/2 ID for a 7/16 bolt, so this time I ordered some specifically for 7/16. Wanted 4' of each but shipping on 4' length was $80 vs two, 2' was $15.
$100 worth. May not look like it.

 

[rattle_snake]

Had a beat down toolbox from a trailer tongue sitting for awhile. Decided to use it. Made some spacers but ended up chopping it up to fit the wheel well contour instead. Bolted to bed floor. Using a trailer pin lock as it is keyed the same as all my truck hitches and trailer locks, one key for everything.


After losing the tool bag storage spot I stuffed all the junk in the glove box or under the seat. The box gets most of **** out of the cab.

 

[fouckhest]

Was running low on small DOM that I primary use as spacers. Had been using 26 ga sheet to sleeve 1/2 ID for a 7/16 bolt, so this time I ordered some specifically for 7/16. Wanted 4' of each but shipping on 4' length was $80 vs two, 2' was $15.
$100 worth. May not look like it.

I might have to steal this idea, I love having spacers around, so this would be great to have in stock.

Curious, where are you sourcing this?

 

[ntsqd]

I usually buy bar stock and drill to size, but I too am interested in where you're buying this from.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Justin, I saw a white Bumpside on Ray Rd yesterday with dirt bike in the back. When I first saw the truck in my mirror I thought for sure it was you as it was the same color and stance. I then realized it was a bump and the bike was a Kawi.....

 

[WoodsTruck]

I like the toolbox.
What did you use under the bed mat to bridge the ribs so it lays flat?

 

[lilscorpion]

Added the provisions for 2nd mount point. I was able to model it pretty close and fit well.




I was able to model the location pretty close and fit well. Clears the AN hoses.


Tensioner.


Added a 2nd return for the hydroboost with a bulkhead fitting.




Sanded the writing off the top of the cap. Cut up the old belt to measure for a shorter one.


Hose routing for now. Wish the pump was a bottom outlet. I have some leftover hose if I want to change things.

Love how clean it looks…

 

[rattle_snake]

I might have to steal this idea, I love having spacers around, so this would be great to have in stock.

Curious, where are you sourcing this?

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

There are some others

Justin, I saw a white Bumpside on Ray Rd yesterday with dirt bike in the back. When I first saw the truck in my mirror I thought for sure it was you as it was the same color and stance. I then realized it was a bump and the bike was a Kawi.....

Almost, and yes I ride Red.

I like the toolbox.
What did you use under the bed mat to bridge the ribs so it lays flat?

Nothing under the bed mat. It's not that thick so I imagine that it will conform over time.

Love how clean it looks…

Thanks. The magic of CNC.

 

[fouckhest]

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

There are some others

Thanks, I did think about them, but also found some on mcmaster as well if anyone is looking

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[ntsqd]

Watch McMaster on the shipping. Sometimes what seems like a higher priced option really isn't. It isn't like McMaster sets out to gouge you, their shipping costs just seem a bit random.

 

[rattle_snake]

I limited all the slip in what was a differential. Welder to 11.
Used plates to help keep splines clean and add strength as you cannot weld the side spiders to the case on this LSD.


I chose to remove the ring gear to keep spatter off it. Chased the threads and locktite going back on.

Yes it barks the tires on a turn. 40s don't chirp. If I get tired of that then spend money on a mechanical locker.

 

[WoodsTruck]

For as many miles as you put on the truck, how fast do you figure this will wear out rear tires?

 

[rattle_snake]

Good question.
The front tires wear the outside, cup the lugs, necessitate rotation.
All the tires have some rock rash and will get more.
I have put about 9k miles on it over 5 years. 2k a year. Haven't measured the tread depth but they look to be 75% or so.

I would guess they will be 10+ years old and somewhat beat before they are bald. Some shops won't service due to age. So I don't see it as a major issue. This truck is not as heavy as a modern diesel pickup which wear tires out pretty quick. 20k if that.

 

[SMOKEYBEAR]

Probably the cleanest "Lincoln Locker" I've ever seen.

If you end up in a mechanical locker, Yukon Grizzly Locker has surprisingly decent street manners. I ran one in F350/ 7.3 CCLB on 38s and F350/ BB460 RCLB on 39s. Off road performance as expected/ advertised.

 

[ntsqd]

As much as I detest Detroits I must say that the one that was in the 14bff under the '79 & 91' Suburbans was unnoticeable. It didn't even make "Locker Noises" in parking lots. Weight and wheelbase seem to moderate their obnoxiousness.

 

[zmotorsports]

As much as I detest Detroits I must say that the one that was in the 14bff under the '79 & 91' Suburbans was unnoticeable. It didn't even make "Locker Noises" in parking lots. Weight and wheelbase seem to moderate their obnoxiousness.

^^This. I have installed quite a few Detroit Lockers in vehicles over the course of the past 30+ years and the ones that are seamless and get least amount of negative feedback are in the heavier vehicles, ie full-size trucks mainly. So much in fact, that I will try my best to deter someone from putting one in a lighter vehicle that will be driven much at all on the road.