rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Installed transfer case. Made some 0.750 +/- 0.005" shims for the trans mount. It sets clearance from front yolk to cross member. I think a 1350 double cardan joint should just fit at full droop, to maximize cab to case clearance. May need a small body lift to clear trans and TC, we shall see...

Plan on using a stick style twin shifter in typical position to go with old school theme.

Good to finally have this stuff off the shop floor.

 

[nsula_country]

Very nice.

Build is coming along. The parts are... So... Clean and painted!

I'm just fixing all the little issues and driving the 75 dentside. Dents and surface rust are character!

CT

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Looks great! Not sure how I missed this thread but it just now popped up on my phone app!
G-J phone app is great for posting pics but not so much for following others threads.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[rattle_snake]

Very nice.

Build is coming along. The parts are... So... Clean and painted!

I'm just fixing all the little issues and driving the 75 dentside. Dents and surface rust are character!

CT

The 'clean and painted' part was a lot of work, piddling away at it for over a year. It's more fun to assemble clean painted stuff with new bolts.

Plan for now is to leave body alone, so dents and faded paint will remain for some time. Then probably shave most of the trim, fill lots of holes and paint myself back to original lime green.

 

[rattle_snake]

Looks great! Not sure how I missed this thread but it just now popped up on my phone app!
G-J phone app is great for posting pics but not so much for following others threads.

I was considering trying the app, thanks for the feedback. Nice work on your Fords!

 

[zmotorsports]

I was considering trying the app, thanks for the feedback. Nice work on your Fords!

Justin, just my opinion, I really like the app for uploading of pictures and such but other than that like the PC based format for most of my viewing and reading.

 

[rattle_snake]

Busy time of year, been out of town last 4 weekends so not much shop time or progress. Had to get some help from my motorcycle crew swapping tires and prepping bike for another trip.


Went on a quick/short/easy desert family camping trip since weather is so nice this time of year. New chainsaw performed perfectly, why I put up with the other turds so long I don't know (well, because I'm cheap). Smoked steaks on fresh cut indigenous mesquite (aka a dead tree).
All the machines did well didn't have to work on anything. Some long, rocky, nasty hill climbs in this area.


Found Mrs Widow waiting for me back at home with egg sack.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justified a wheel purchase for the 72, went old-school with slot mags. 17x10 for 40x13.50-17 Toyo MT. Would have done a 9" wide but not available, only this one size in 8 lug.


Finished up the link bars. had a pair of bushing that were longer than the rest and wouldn't allow grease flow so cut them down on lathe.


tapped for zerk and installed bushings and rod end with anti-seize

 

[rattle_snake]

Positioned axle under chassis and installed link bars and coilovers, so I could snap a few pics and acknowledge the milestone. Broke down the engine & axle stands and put them in deep storage.




Next step is to get tires mounted and get started on rear suspension.

 

[Boosted1]

Those are some wide wheels.

 

[zmotorsports]

Lookin' sick Justin.

Those wheels are going to finish it off nicely. I had the exact same ones made by Western Wheel back in the mid-80's on my K5 Jimmy (Blazer) only in a 6-lug wrapped in 33" BFG's.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

+1000pts for the upsized slotted mags. I think a slotted mags or turbine/hurricane/vector wheel look appropriate.

 

[rattle_snake]

Those are some wide wheels.

Ya, they look really wide with no tire. Would have picked a 9 but a 10 is still a decent match for a 13.50 tire. Will get wheel'd so going to get beat up.

Lookin' sick Justin.

Those wheels are going to finish it off nicely. I had the exact same ones made by Western Wheel back in the mid-80's on my K5 Jimmy (Blazer) only in a 6-lug wrapped in 33" BFG's.

I guess they were so cool they made a comeback! you have a pic of this vechile?

+1000pts for the upsized slotted mags. I think a slotted mags or turbine/hurricane/vector wheel look appropriate.

Wow 1000pts! thanks. I spent it on a decent welding hood, fab squares and a finger break.

 

[zmotorsports]

Ha ha Justin. Yeah, I'm sure I have a picture but it is probably a Polaroid.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got the tires mounted. Had to drive around to 4 different tire shops to find one willing and capable. Tire pro's told me they could do 40s, but when I showed up they said 4 year old tires were 'too old'... guess they weren't interested. No point in even considering Discount.

The tire with bead protector damage looks to have other issues as well. It sits and rolls tilted indicating broken belts. The other 3 don't. Probably why the seller bough new and sold these.

But they will get it rolling and allow me to test fit, trim, hack and such, which was the point anyhow. Probably won't go down road for another 6-12 months anyhow, so a new set would just age also. Will never wear them out from miles. So, like most of my tires, they will spend their final days doing burnouts.

I think the wheel to sidewall ratio is a decent fit for this old Ford

 

[zmotorsports]

Those will look sharp as hell on that old Ford Justin.

 

[bradpac]

Can't go wrong with slot mags and big ol tires.

 

[rattle_snake]

Those will look sharp as hell on that old Ford Justin.

Can't go wrong with slot mags and big ol tires.

Can't wait to get them mounted on the new axles.

Lost another alternator in the Cobra yesterday. Was able to get it home after charging battery with another vehicle for awhile. I have a spare but getting tired of replacing them. I think this is the 4th or fifth one to take a dump. I added heat shield and fresh air duct long ago, but doesn't seem to help. regulator is right next to exhaust manifold. No voltage gauge in car as it was replaced by a boost gauge for the cobra. I modified the boost gauge to read 2x the original amount.

 

[86turbodsl]

A bit retro, but can you move back to a separate regulator alt?

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes, externally regulated units has been used in the application. The high quality ones are expensive ($600). Haven't found an old-school ext-reg OEM type one available in a high current model. Even with big three wiring upgrade, the audio system overwhelms the electrical system. Need min of 160 amps.

https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/200-Amp-High-Output-Alternator-p/8304-200mf-er.htm
https://www.lethalperformance.com/j...irpin-high-output-alternator-03-04-cobra.html

 

[Mark_17]

What RPM are you shifting at and what is the stock RPM limit? Do you have a stock sized crank pulley?

Friend of mine had the same problem, turned out he was spinning his alternator much much faster than it was rated for. Switched to a larger Alt pulley and hasn't had an issue since.

 

[rattle_snake]

What RPM are you shifting at and what is the stock RPM limit? Do you have a stock sized crank pulley?

Friend of mine had the same problem, turned out he was spinning his alternator much much faster than it was rated for. Switched to a larger Alt pulley and hasn't had an issue since.

I usually shift at 6000-6200, limit is ~6500. Stock Eaton is done by then anyhow w/ 2.7 upper. Stock lower pulley.

Perhaps is it time for over-sized Alt pulley. I have bad disco lights at idle already but replacing these alternators is a PITA, so maybe worth a shot.

I find that the units are badly heat damaged. The rectifier bridge is fried, with casing burned off the diodes. So they get really hot. Living in AZ doesn't help.

Car really needs a whipple or a TVS... fuel system, E85, and so on.

 

[Monza Harry]

Justin, have you considered taking the regulator out of the case and remote mount it in the air stream? This way you can keep your modern high output alternator. Harry

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, have you considered taking the regulator out of the case and remote mount it in the air stream? This way you can keep your modern high output alternator. Harry

I believe the regulator doesn't come out easily, soldered in I think. I suppose remote mounting is possible, there are some drawbacks too. I have a damaged unit to investigate with. Thanks for idea.

 

[rattle_snake]

Waffled for some time but eventually pulled trigger on a press finger brake. Swag HD unit.

Melted together and painted

Now I don't have to use a sledge hammer and the vice to make bends.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job Justin.

My only complaint with the SWAG HD finger press brake is the bend radius can be too much at times. One way to combat that is to get a few different sizes of angle iron that will stack inside the angle on the base and progressively get smaller. This will create a tighter bend radius for smaller projects.

I've gone one step further and purchased a 4-way press brake die that has 4 sides with 4 different radii. I haven't reworked mine yet but it is on the white board for a revamp where I will machine off the weld for the angle iron and machine shims for the press brake die, at least that is the plan in my head.

 

[rattle_snake]

Started alternator removal process on the Cobra. Once up on lift I saw my additional 2-gauge alt-to-battery cable hanging down, and burnt. This wire is in parallel with the stock 10 ga wire to lower resistance between the 2 points at high load. I chose to fuse this wire with a 100A fuse. Fusing this wire is debated subject. The big wire was badly heat damaged way up the cable, and could not be re-terminated or reused, so I removed the extra circuit. The fuse did not blow. Lets just say that in the world of electrical engineering, fuses and associated circuit design is an interesting subject.

I replaced the melted output post extension, and hooked everything back up hoping the alt itself was OK. It wasn't, so I tested the rest of the wiring before swapping in the spare.


I think the last knuckle head to work on the car didn't properly torque the extension stud nut, it came loose introducing an intermittent connection causing arcing, and heat from high resistance. Speculating that once the nut came all the way off (melted or otherwise) the heavy gauge wire was arcing and shorting out to gnd.
The regulator probably didn't like the load dumps and took a dump itself.

After getting spare installed, I tested and it didn't work either.

Then I realized the tech had forgot to reinstall the belt. Once fitted all was operating optimally.

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice job Justin.

My only complaint with the SWAG HD finger press brake is the bend radius can be too much at times. One way to combat that is to get a few different sizes of angle iron that will stack inside the angle on the base and progressively get smaller. This will create a tighter bend radius for smaller projects.

I've gone one step further and purchased a 4-way press brake die that has 4 sides with 4 different radii. I haven't reworked mine yet but it is on the white board for a revamp where I will machine off the weld for the angle iron and machine shims for the press brake die, at least that is the plan in my head.

Interesting. Looking forward to seeing the improved setup.

 

[rattle_snake]

Once the car was back on the road I made time to investigate oil leak on the raider. Can't have it marking it's territory like that other brand.... Removed the filter and cleaned everything up. Took it for a test ride to enjoy the beautiful weather.

Washed my poor truck who had been neglected. Also needs an oil change, but trying to look into the oil cooler issue also which need the oil drained to removed pan and cooler.

 

[icecactus]

Nice job Justin.

My only complaint with the SWAG HD finger press brake is the bend radius can be too much at times. One way to combat that is to get a few different sizes of angle iron that will stack inside the angle on the base and progressively get smaller. This will create a tighter bend radius for smaller projects.

Swag also has their adjustable bottom die


I have the same setup Rattle. Love the color. I really need to paint mine. You should swap the hydraulic cylinder for the HF air version. Makes it much faster

 

[rattle_snake]

Finally had a weekend day to tackle the next step on the project. Got bed ready for removal and used an engine hoist to lift. The reach was a little short and caused the bed to catch on the hoist ram. But worked well enough to get it off


Rolled the chassis outside for pressure wash. First time the truck has seen sun light for awhile. Was an easy clean up compare to the filthy front end. Even in February the sun was hot enough to get the frame dry and painted within an hour. No rust.


Turned the chassis around to make working on the back half easier, and removed the rear axle as an assembly.


I used my redneck engineering skills to conceive and build a temporary trailer chassis to be able to store bed and front clip someplace else.


Frame is construed from twoba-furs, with springs bolted on. No need for shackles or anything fancy like that.


added a tongue extension and build a creative ball coupler out of a piece of exhaust tubing. Put the hood, fenders and so in the 'trailer' and used my certified redneck camouflage 4 wheeler to park it back at the barn.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I hear the DOT coming!


Haha, nice work - I've built similar such apparatuses!

 

[mz44]

Engine hoist works good over the side for removing a bed. Have to take a wheel off and use a jack stand to get the hoist in close enough, but it wont hit the ram.

 

[zmotorsports]

Swag also has their adjustable bottom die

Thanks. That's an interesting bottom die but I think I'll stick to my original plan and see how it turns out.

 

[rattle_snake]

I hear the DOT coming!

Haha, nice work - I've built similar such apparatuses!

Apparatus is a good description!

Engine hoist works good over the side for removing a bed. Have to take a wheel off and use a jack stand to get the hoist in close enough, but it wont hit the ram.

I tried and wheel was in the way as you say. Will go from the side when I reinstall, thanks.

 

[StormcrowAz]

Justin - Nice work on the truck! I especially like the "git-r-done" engineering.

An engine hoist has always been on my list of things "to-get" but haven't yet found the Round Tuit that goes with it. Between the lift and gantry I've been hard-pressed to justify the expense and floor-space square footage in the shop it will eat up.

What size tires are you going to put on the press?

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin - Nice work on the truck! I especially like the "git-r-done" engineering.

An engine hoist has always been on my list of things "to-get" but haven't yet found the Round Tuit that goes with it. Between the lift and gantry I've been hard-pressed to justify the expense and floor-space square footage in the shop it will eat up.

What size tires are you going to put on the press?

I'm fairly certain it is DOT approved...

Press is short so big tires would help to get work area up to more comfortable level. Probably use 4-6" locking casters. Maybe use the ones from HF toolbox or those on cab dolley.

 

[rattle_snake]

Chipping away at the rear frame clean up. Lots of rivets to remove, at least 30.
Got the aux fuel tank supporting hardware and the spring hangers removed from the left side.
Removing rivets is a pain. Trying a new method with plasma. Cut head off, grind flush, then gouge out the middle of rivet with plasma cutter. Let if cool a bit then hammer out. Noticeable improvement over not doing plasma step.

Why go to the effort to replace a leaf spring with a leaf spring? Well, trying to keep things simple, and I don't want to hack up the bed for coilover/shock towers. The old 54" springs are sagged out and have almost no droop, so will **** off road. I'm swapping in Chev 63" springs that I found on offer up for $50. They are a 2+1 leaf design from a 2002 1500 2WD, which is the lightest version. The 4WDs and 2500s had more leafs and higher rates, so may need to go to one of those packs the future depending on how these work and what I end up carrying in the bed. Will be a bolt in once the hangers are done.

The 63 packs are long and relatively flat, so provide an advantage in flex. Going to do a shackle flip to get more lift out of the system without going to a more arched (aftermarket lift $$$) spring. The free height of the spring is around 10", and the arc length to eye-to-eye difference is only 2" This means the shackle will only move 2" and the pin (axle) 1" though the travel. Hope to get 12-14" of travel at the wheel.

Also plan to run the 4" blocks out of the doner F-350 to get the height I think I need. Once the body is back on I can asses the ride height and adjust as needed. Ideally I would not run a block in the rear.

 

[rattle_snake]

The Chevy springs are wider than the old ones. Need to mod or make new hangers. Decided to make my own, figured I would put my new press brake to work.


Simple design out of 1/4". Also got a new welding hood. Quite an improvement over the HF turd I had. Welds are looking less ******.


Frame to spring distance is about same as stock. Front hanger eye bolt is down about 1.5" lower than stock.


Went back and boxed the rear mount, not because I needed to, but because I had to. tapped for grease zerks.

 

[rattle_snake]

Removed rear most cross member in prep for fuel tank mounting. Replaced with a piece of 2x4 x 3/16 tube. Notched the tube ends to get a nice fit.

Will have to modify the the next one forward, so might replace with 2x4 as well. Moving the cross members away from the rear hanger doesn't help. Contemplating doing some frame boxing in this area. Once tank is installed, no access inside frame so plan to weld some captive nuts for bumper mounting.

Located and tacked the hangers on the frame, might have to move them. Set shackle to be vertical at full droop, but hard to estimate. Tacked the axle perches on at an arbitrary angle just to get thing together. Will have to adjust later.
Undecided on further hanger reinforcements. Have some ideas. Maybe not needed. Trying to minimize weight everywhere.

Was able to use the F350 blocks, plates and u bolts. Shorted the U bolts a bit but have under $100 in the rear spring swap. Shackles are a little too long, might shorten if possible. Might not need a 4" block either.