rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Stance is looking great Justin.

Are you thinking about cutting something like this and moving the section forward about 2", then you would just have a small section to fill over the middle of the lip?

Yes that is the plan. Would only need to make a 2" filler piece with the fender lip contour. The right fender is pretty smashed up, so have to hammer it flat first.

 

[zmotorsports]

Yes that is the plan. Would only need to make a 2" filler piece with the fender lip contour. The right fender is pretty smashed up, so have to hammer it flat first.

Nice. Looking forward to it.

 

[Mr.N]

Working on steering pump and mount. My 76 van motor came with a Saginaw pump so I got a reseal kit for it.
Did some mods from this site: Modifying your Power Steering Pump - GM Truck Central
I drilled out the output fitting from 0.138 to 0.144. Max recommended is 5/32=0.156. My pressure regulator has 2 shims, so I removed them to increase working pressure of pump. From the article I guess pressure went up 30%.
Luckily I had a PS pump pulley puller from the last time I did the same mods on a Saginaw pump I installed in my 77 bronco. Installed all new seals including shaft seal and painted.

Very nice mode, you will be very happy upgrading to the Saginaw pump and tweaking it for more pressure and flow will help a lot!
Careful going too much, I've cracked a couple of saginaw sectors both at the cap.

Do you have a part number for the AC Delco Saganiaw pump rebuild kit?
I am very unhappy with the Gates or other brands. Thanks.

.​

 

[C91x]

Just looking at your shock towers. Any thoughts of an engine cage or a "strut bar"

 

[rattle_snake]

Very nice mode, you will be very happy upgrading to the Saginaw pump and tweaking it for more pressure and flow will help a lot!
Careful going too much, I've cracked a couple of saginaw sectors both at the cap.

Do you have a part number for the AC Delco Saganiaw pump rebuild kit?
I am very unhappy with the Gates or other brands. Thanks.

.​

I didn't go all the way with pressure mod so should be OK.
Here is link to kit I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-36-350390

Just looking at your shock towers. Any thoughts of an engine cage or a "strut bar"

Plenty of thoughts but no plans. I want to keep most things more factory looking but with improved performance. The towers are meant to support themselves without a brace. Lots of weld area and then I reinforced from there. A lot of people use hoops which need a brace over the motor, as the weld area is minimal.

I'm working on the inner fenders now to work with towers. An engine cage makes more sense for a trail rig with full cage to tie into. w/o inner fenders the motor get filthy, and I don't want to build custom ones from scratch. I may have more time into modifing the existing ones though...

 

[C91x]

I did hoops on my last long travel build and like you stated I bent up some tubing to tie them together. Build looks good!

 

[rattle_snake]

I did hoops on my last long travel build and like you stated I bent up some tubing to tie them together. Build looks good!

Thanks. Pics or link to this 'long travel build' you speak of?

 

[rattle_snake]

After watching the pros use a pole hedge trimmer on mesquite trees I decide to dust off my cheesy electric trimmer and add a pole.
Mk I was to build a bracket for a 1/2 pipe extension. Worked OK with short pole. Too heavy, no power switch, so not the safest hack.


Mk II was to adapt to a pole from my pole chainsaw. It has a remote power switch and a lighter telescopic pole.

I added a hoop to the existing mount that fits the pole as is.

OSHA would be proud. Can use atop an unstable ladder in the back of a moving pickup for additional height.

 

[C91x]

I'd have to really go digging through my computer. Basically when the RZRs came out I went that direction and moved on to messing with old cars.

 

[zmotorsports]

Basically when the RZRs came out I went that direction and moved on to messing with old cars.

That's funny, when the side by sides really hit the market I went away from them rather than embraced them. I was fully into the powersports industry with my side business working on and building snowmobiles, ATV's and sandrails. Sold all of our sleds in 2009 then around 2010 when the side by sides really started hitting the dunes it caused me to lose interest. In 2011 we bought our fourth Jeep and started going to the dunes less and less until we sold all of our sand toys in 2012 and haven't been back.

 

[C91x]

That's funny, when the side by sides really hit the market I went away from them rather than embraced them. I was fully into the powersports industry with my side business working on and building snowmobiles, ATV's and sandrails. Sold all of our sleds in 2009 then around 2010 when the side by sides really started hitting the dunes it caused me to lose interest. In 2011 we bought our fourth Jeep and started going to the dunes less and less until we sold all of our sand toys in 2012 and haven't been back.

Sorry to go off topic on your thread RSK.

We all laughed at the Rhino's at the dunes. Couldn't figure out why someone would spend that much money on something like that. I never wanted a sand rail because the dunes for us was exclusively for dirt bikes.

How i got sucked into it was I really wanted to build a tubed out back halfed Samurai. I was out with a friend running Martinez Canyon in his Scout. He was on 38's, linked etc. and a guy i didn't know was running a sammy on toyota axles, 33's and i think he said stock YJ leaf springs and he was doing everything with less effort than anyone else in the group and he stated he hand't broken anything since building it. Now i don't know if you were into crawling back then but everyone always broke something. I knew i wanted a short wheel base rig so then i started looking for a samurai...Fast fwd to renting a RZR S and the wife and I loved how we could still crawl it around but also have fun in the high speed stuff. We sold her quad and bought one and I haven't had one regret.

Worst thing about the UTV explosion is the trail closures that have come from it. You used to have to know how to drive and how to build something to make it back into some of these places and now you've got guys dropping 30k on a 180hp UTV with no experience driving off road. They're destroying trails and making them less safe. My little boy rides a PW50 but i wouldn't even consider taking him riding on any 2 track when you've got a dip$h!t doing 40 around a blind corner.

 

[zmotorsports]

Sorry to go off topic on your thread RSK.

Worst thing about the UTV explosion is the trail closures that have come from it. You used to have to know how to drive and how to build something to make it back into some of these places and now you've got guys dropping 30k on a 180hp UTV with no experience driving off road. They're destroying trails and making them less safe. My little boy rides a PW50 but i wouldn't even consider taking him riding on any 2 track when you've got a dip$h!t doing 40 around a blind corner.

^^THAT is exactly why I got the out of the powersports business and sold all of our sand toys. It used to be a person had to have some skills to both maintain and drive to get to some of the areas that we enjoyed as a family starting back in the late 80's. However, we found ourselves overran by any idiot with a checkbook that could now rip **** around the terrain tearing it up with no respect for the environment nor others on the trails.

I know not everyone is like that so I'm sorry to offend but the number of idiots definetly outweigh those who are respectful. A group of us Jeepers were sitting off to the side of a trail eating lunch in Moab back in about 2012 at one of our rallies and a group of about 20 SXS's came hauling *** down the road at about 30-40 MPH flying right past us sitting there eating. Do you think a single one of them thought about slowing down and being respectful of others enjoying the trail? Nope, not a one. Really put a sour taste in my mouth and similar scenarios since just solidify that feeling.

Sorry Justin. Didn't mean to siderail your great thread.

 

[PhantomEB]

A couple of my buddies have SxS’s, but a lot of us have the quads still. Mines an 06 500 where as everyone else has the 750+....it’s been paid for and barely used. I got it and the big truck on 42s.

The one thing I can see myself stayin within and that’s the ATVs and I always still got that desire for a quick street car and a whole lot more shop room.

 

[rattle_snake]

No problem. I've voiced my SxS opinion, inline with above. The exception seems to be the older retired guys. They have respect for others but not the physical ability to build a machine or the high maintenance, so SxS makes sense. I've had some interesting conversation about duning 40+ years ago and the vehicles back then.

Last dune trip my friend rented a Razr 1000 turbo for his SIL and grandkids. I found it boring as hell, even with paddles.
As much as I would love to build and have a high hp rail, they are one dimensional and require trailering to use area (like a boat or drag car), they sit 350+ days a year. Hence why I'm building my old ford for multi use and have a street/strip car for a DD.

 

[Mr.N]

I didn't go all the way with pressure mod so should be OK.
Here is link to kit I used:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-36-350390

Thanks for the link...

But "Not Available"
ACDelco Power Steering Pump Seal Kits 19146544

 

[csp]

Thanks for the link...

But "Not Available"
ACDelco Power Steering Pump Seal Kits 19146544

Just googled that part number and:

https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline....e-Booster-Steering-Pump/2869474/19146544.html

http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/19146544.html

 

[Monza Harry]

Very nice mode, you will be very happy upgrading to the Saginaw pump and tweaking it for more pressure and flow will help a lot!
Careful going too much, I've cracked a couple of saginaw sectors both at the cap.
Do you have a part number for the AC Delco Saginaw pump rebuild kit?
I am very unhappy with the Gates or other brands. Thanks.

.​

Justin have you considered having these guys doing your pump and box?
https://leepowersteering.com/
Including the porting for an external Ram? Also an PS Oil cooler would be a good idea, easy too just add a section of steel or copper line in front of the rad in the return line, I doubt fins would be needed if you made it long enough and in the wind.
With a truck of that size and weight I would consider creating a pilot on the end of the sector shaft and another bearing on the bottom to put the sector shaft into double shear that would reduce the likelihood of breakage by an order of magnitude! My thought was building a nut with a cylindrical section to go through the new bearing and up against the pitman arm with the hex/flats outside of [and actually riding against] the new extra lower bearing. This is an idea one does not have to act on immediately but can be added well after the fact. Harry

 

[rattle_snake]

They appear to have nice stuff and the price to go with it. I'm cheap so I rebuilt the pump myself and may tap the box to save some more cash if ram is needed. The PS system will get a finned cooler, I have a few laying around.
I think the box is sufficient for my application, but I won't run a drop pitman arm as it makes the sector loading even worse. I've seen guys mod the pitman arm for double sheer on upper drag link heim on serious trail rigs. Thanks for sharing your ideas.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made some progress on right inner fender. Had to hack it up for coilover tower.
Started by chopping a hole and re-install/trimming until it fit with minimal gap.


The rear section was bumped out for clear the factory exhaust manifold. This created a large gap and defeats the purpose of the inner fender in this area.


I contemplated cutting it all off to let the heat out and to view the headers, but decided to flatten the piece and keep the protection. I cut at the bend and welded it back up, then used the press brake to put a crease in for header clearance.


I left a 1/2" gap all around towers to have adjustment room. I made card board templates and then transffered to 18 ga.


I made provisions for a fuse/relay box on the fender. Basically a spacer for all the wiring that exits below.


At least one battery blew up in this truck, so I treated the rust with sand blast, wire wheel, and rust converter. Then some seam sealer over booger welds and rattle can paint job.

 

[nsula_country]

Paint it Black... Put it back.

Looking very nice friend. Very nice.

CT

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job on the inner fenders Justin.

I'm a FIRM proponent of running inner fenders and I don't like having a lot of ventilation holes cut in them. I like to have the natural path for the heat and keep a low pressure in the engine bay to allow an easy egress for the heat out the back of the engine bay. Plus it keep the engine cleaner without road spray, dirt and grime coming off the tires getting to the engine.

Keep up the great work.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

As stated above, nice work. Very clean execution, I like what you did with the fuse/relay block.

 

[rattle_snake]

Paint it Black... Put it back.
Looking very nice friend. Very nice.
CT

But, somehow it got modified so much, nothing fits.

Nice job on the inner fenders Justin.

I'm a FIRM proponent of running inner fenders and I don't like having a lot of ventilation holes cut in them. I like to have the natural path for the heat and keep a low pressure in the engine bay to allow an easy egress for the heat out the back of the engine bay. Plus it keep the engine cleaner without road spray, dirt and grime coming off the tires getting to the engine.

Keep up the great work.

Those are the two reasons I went the way I did, like the OEMs. Controlled air flow and filth barrier.
I plan to plug the gaps around radiator/core/fenders and add a small belly pan between bumper and engine cross member to further control air in/out of radiator. Most of the hot air will have to exit behind the engine.

As stated above, nice work. Very clean execution, I like what you did with the fuse/relay block.

Thanks Marc. I wish the block was just made taller to have room for connections. With 6 fuses and 6 relays there can be around 36 wires that go in/out. Won't need all positions filled to start with, so will have some expand-ability.
To start it will support fused power and switching control for:
-MSD
-Sniper EFI
-Fuel pump
-Horn w/relay
-A/C clutch
-key switched power

 

[rattle_snake]

Spent way too long making a vacuum line for trans and running sensor wiring. Used some 0.25 hard line and bent to fit to some existing holes on the trans. Used flare tool to put ******* on the ends.


I decided to use the speed sensor on transfer case instead of VSS in rear diff. Don't have to run wires all the way back. Had to mod the clamp, chase threads and hit my head at least once. At least the truck is tall enough to sit up underneath. I had previously made a 3/8-16 to 1/4-20 stud adapter for 02 sensor wiring, then realized threads were 7/16. So I used it here on TC for wire clamp.


I was able to dual purpose the mount holes on both ends for both wiring and plumbing using clamps. With tube supported on both end it can't rattle. I'm avoiding zip ties and attaching things to one another unnecessarily. This wastes time now instead of later when I have to disassemble.


Trying to keep the firewall clean although there is a lot of wiring and **** going on. Using lots of clamps to keep things in their place. All senor wiring will go through same firewall hole to gauge controller. Vacuum system complete. I guess if I'm doing this type of stuff I can't be too far from startup and cam break-in.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Damnit Justin, now you've got me searching for a K25/20 or K35/30 GMC/Chevy to build.

How many coats of Krylon are on the hardline?

Looks good man, with the approach you're taking, future you will be much happier when it comes time to wrench.

 

[rattle_snake]

Damnit Justin, now you've got me searching for a K25/20 or K35/30 GMC/Chevy to build.

How many coats of Krylon are on the hardline?

Looks good man, with the approach you're taking, future you will be much happier when it comes time to wrench.

...and we knew that was coming. We had similar conversation recently over in your thread. Embrace it.

Just 2, knowing it was going to get messed up fitting clamps. It's raw, didn't want to buy 25' roll of the green stuff. I've got quite a stash of tube in many sizes....

I know that there will be many bugs to work out before it is trusted/reliable.

 

[rattle_snake]

Started on the ignition wiring. The coil driver's (aka MSD box) output spews high levels of electromagnetic radiation out as it is switching 550 V on and off with each spark. The change/edge of this signal is faster than the actual RPM/frequency and contaminates the rest of the electrical system with noise of all sorts of frequencies. The EFI system and instrumentation doesn't like noise so my plan is to combat in several ways just like routing a circuit board.
-shield/suppress the source
-Physical separation
-Route intelligently for minimal cross-coupling
All the spark plug wires themselves radiate noise too but at least the wires a suppression type. The distributor itself is noisy and is close to EFI.

Step one was to shield the coil output wires with braided tinned copper. I used 1/4 braid and grounded one end. Doesn't really matter which end for the noise source.


I ran the wires away from all others and made it as short as possible. The alternator wiring has to come through same area, including start+run signal that also goes directly to ECU. They will cross at 90* to minimize coupling.


I never really understood how electrons jump off the wires or an antenna. Must be magic.

 

[nsula_country]

Shield in the Field. So I have always been told. Looks like you did the same.

CT

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Not just any kind of magic Justin...PFM, the BEST kind...

 

[C91x]

Looking good. I envy the amount of time it seems you get in the shop

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[zmotorsports]

That engine bay is looking great Justin. Excellent execution in everything.

 

[rattle_snake]

Shield in the Field. So I have always been told. Looks like you did the same.

CT

Yes Curt, this is why I always wear a tin foil beanie. Not only does it keep governments and other attackers from reading my mind, it also prevents mind control!

More info and instruction on how to make one for yourself.
https://zapatopi.net/afdb/

Not just any kind of magic Justin...PFM, the BEST kind...

Haha, yes. That is my interpretation of Maxwell's equations. Math with lots of odd symbols and no numbers that no one understands.

Looking good. I envy the amount of time it seems you get in the shop

Thanks. Day job really gets in the way. I try to be as effective as I can with what time I have. Analysis paralysis and OCD don't help.

That engine bay is looking great Justin. Excellent execution in everything.

Thanks Mike. Trying to up my game with better techniques and materials. I bought a bunch of supplies and tools to do it right. I hate waiting on little clips, fasteners and whatnot.

 

[rattle_snake]

Turned down a 3/8-16 nut into a sleeve for my .50 BMG beer keg handle. Press fit.

The 50 BMG is a fun caliber sufficient for most north American game.

 

[rattle_snake]

Build a cheap brake die after a post here from a member who shall remain nameless.
The base of the Swag HD finger die is too large for most things, so I made an insert that will allow bends of thinner material 1/2" from edge.

I used 1.25 angle for the base and 0.75 for the die surface.

I shopped for 4 sided dies similar to what Mr. 'Z' had adapted to his, but after seeing how many hundreds of dollars one could spend my financial sphincter tightened up and I made this turd out of scrap.

 

[LXCam]

Turned down a 3/8-16 nut into a sleeve for my .50 BMG beer keg handle. Press fit.

The 50 BMG is a fun caliber sufficient for most north American game.

Finally, something of great importance and ingenuity

 

[rattle_snake]

Finally, something of great importance and ingenuity

Thanks Cam, I'm glad you approve. You may want to stop in and try it yourself.

 

[LXCam]

Thanks Cam, I'm glad you approve. You may want to stop in and try it yourself.

what time does the draft kick off?? I’m on my way!

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Apparently Cam is driving, so I'm in!

 

[nsula_country]

Turned down a 3/8-16 nut into a sleeve for my .50 BMG beer keg handle. Press fit.

The 50 BMG is a fun caliber sufficient for most north American game.

I actually have some .50 BMG brass floating around... I have a keezer... I have a friend with a lathe... I see plagiarism in my future.

CT

 

[OutlawDrifter]

The 50 BMG is a fun caliber sufficient for most north American game.

I guess in a pinch it works , especially if you need to shoot through a wall, followed by an engine block, before you reach your target