rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Have been doing more camping, riding and boating lately so not much shop time or progress. My Kids (11 and 13) have been asking to go boating/skiing/camping/quad riding. I've been dealing with severe teeth/headache issues that make it miserable to do anything over the last year. I know they aren't going to ask for too many more years before 'dad & mom' are too boring, so I am doing everything I can to make the trips happen. But with use things break, wear out and need maintenance so been trying to focus on them in addition to the final stretch on the truck project.

I try to make at least one family camping trip 'in the forest' each year in addition to horse camping, boat camping, desert camping and dunes. This year we went again up on the Mogollon rim. I like trying new places, ended up going 20 miles in on dirt roads with camper and trailer, which takes it's toll on everything. Found a broken belt on one of the tires so ordered a new set, but one got lost in shipping, so got 2 installed and hit the road. After returning I did an inspections and found a list of things that needed attention.
Camper waste tank seals were leaking so put new ones in. Not sure anyone wants to see pics of that job.

Right rear camper tie down works it's way out on rough terrain, and came almost all the way out, so had to address it. Drilled hitch and tube for a ball detent pin, same as my other truck. No tools need, captive.


Back when I got this truck, I had to cut and weld a bend in them to clear 6.7 exhaust tip. Just clears


I ordered the camper package on my F250 which was a sway bar and overload leaves. The original 5/8 sway bar was useless with top heavy camper and hung below diff (awful for off road) so I upgraded to a Hellwig 1.25". Huge improvement in handling and safety. But the bushing were loose and allowed movement which unloads the bar and allows the vehicle to pitch. The straps are long and wouldn't hold bushing base tight so I bough some that have an extended pad like this


Now they are nice a tight. I also build a custom long travel air bag setup using air lift D2300 7" bags. Recently upgraded to compression adjustable Fox 2.0 and the combo of these 3 items really handles camper+trailer nice with 37" tires at 65+ mph on steep, windy mountain grades.


New doughnuts. When I buy new tires, I always try to go bigger. Unfortunately, for how I use this truck I require a load range E that will safely support 11k+ gvw. Can't get that in a 38+, plus anything taller just raises COG and tailgate height, which is bad. So I bought same size of Toyo MT in 37x12.50-20. I got 31k out of the last set which is good in my book. Rear car tires only make it 3.1k miles.

 

[zmotorsports]

Good for you taking the time to camp and enjoy some recreational activities with the kiddos Justin. That time doesn't come back so cherish it while you can.

Also, and I can't believe I'm saying this, the truck looks good. Even for a Ford.

 

[rattle_snake]

Completed wiring on the 72 ford, I think. Wrapped up rear harness and wired fuel pump. Installed lighting harness and tested lights.
Last item was under-hood fuse/relay box. Took me 8 hours to wire it. The relays needed a coil complement signal like gnd, B+ and run/start so started with schematics of the functions and wired them first. I used a weather pack crimper on the terminals. Using generic crimper for different terminals and wire sizes (12-20ga) is not ideal. Many are mission critical so had to use utmost care to make sure everything is robust and reliable.
The battery and started solenoid have a **** ton of ring terminal connections, so I tried my best to minimize the number if them. To future proof, I ran a 12 ga wire to all 6 fuses and crimped them all into one lug. I added support for A/C at this time with a pair of relays. The factory 1972 A/C clutch system is positive logic, but the Holley EFI is negative, so used one relay as an inverter to adapt. This allows the EFI to control the A/C clutch and idle speed.

Then hooked up the wires from dash and EFI harnesses. The terminals can be removed if needed. Overall the physical implementation worked out OK.

I tested the horn and EFI (It's alive!) and decided against better judgement to wrap the harness, because, what could go wrong?
The four relays are: fuel pump, A/C cluch, A/C inverter, horn.
The fuses are: Fuel pump, EFI, Aux power, A/C cutch, horn.

Also swapped out AGU audio fuse for a 60A thermal breaker. Now I can cut off power to everything with a button or pull fuse.

 

[rattle_snake]

Good for you taking the time to camp and enjoy some recreational activities with the kiddos Justin. That time doesn't come back so cherish it while you can.

Also, and I can't believe I'm saying this, the truck looks good. Even for a Ford.

Yes I wish I could do more. Also making an effort to take their friends along instead of just inviting my friends. Even one extra kid and dynamics change and they have so much more fun. My kids also get to show off their skills (wake board or whatever) to their peers which makes them proud of themselves.

And thanks, we all know you have a soft spot in your heart for Fords...

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Bummer on the teeth/headache stuff. Glad you are able to get some family time for sure though!

5/8" sway bar on a 3/4t...they didn't think that one through for sure. The ZQ8 stuff for the S10 frame under the '49 is 35mm!

Outstanding job on the wiring, very sanitary!

 

[rattle_snake]

So with wiring done pending some testing, I started fluid fill process with the lubricant on the right. Filled rear diff (front will remain dry), transfer case, engine and trans. Trans took only 8 qts and probably needs 8 more once running, however that works during cam break in. Still need to fill power steering and coolant.

Filled master cylinder and started bleeding brakes. One of the AN fitting on m/c was leaking. They are inverted flare to AN, which isn't the best as there is no rotational slip beween tube and nut, and it is one piece. snugged up a bit more and tightened AN line, but AN nut easily mushroomed on threads. So AN lines are junk. Brake fluid all over my pristine Krylon rattle can job. Not sure I trust this particular hose, not another option this exact length/right angle fitting. Considering looped hard lines again, have all the parts to make them already.

 

[rattle_snake]

Bummer on the teeth/headache stuff. Glad you are able to get some family time for sure though!

5/8" sway bar on a 3/4t...they didn't think that one through for sure. The ZQ8 stuff for the S10 frame under the '49 is 35mm!

Outstanding job on the wiring, very sanitary!

I assume the 35mm bar is on the front? The front bar is fairly large and most F250 don't have rear bar at all. My 2000 F250 had a 1.125 rear bar from factory.

Thanks, hope it starts!

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I assume the 35mm bar is on the front? The front bar is fairly large and most F250 don't have rear bar at all. My 2000 F250 had a 1.125 rear bar from factory.

Yes it is on the front. Rear on my Z28 from the factory is larger than 5/8 also....but that's different

I agree, you don't see many with rear bars. That 2000 sounds more like what should come factory!


Brakes are the bane of my existence in the automotive world. For something so simple, they can be the largest headache.

No fill for the front end? Is it coming out before the maiden voyage?

 

[rattle_snake]

...Brakes are the bane of my existence in the automotive world. For something so simple, they can be the largest headache.

No fill for the front end? Is it coming out before the maiden voyage?

Going to leave front diff empty, with lockouts it won't have to spin and should be OK for the short time. Maiden voyage first, but need brakes for that.

I cleaned and painted the very last items, the hood hinges. Should be the last can of Krylon....
I sorted through the junk in the bed. Threw away some things, junk pile or deep storage for others. Got down to one box of 'stuff'.

Starting to prepare for startup routine. Not sure how it will go with EFI and incomplete fluid fill/air bubbles in the various systems. Obviously don't want to shut down mid cam brake in. Wish this was a roller cam motor but couldn't justify the cost for what I need it to do.

 

[nsula_country]

Going to leave front diff empty, with lockouts it won't have to spin and should be OK for the short time. Maiden voyage first, but need brakes for that.

I cleaned and painted the very last items, the hood hinges. Should be the last can of Krylon....
I sorted through the junk in the bed. Threw away some things, junk pile or deep storage for others. Got down to one box of 'stuff'.

Starting to prepare for startup routine. Not sure how it will go with EFI and incomplete fluid fill/air bubbles in the various systems. Obviously don't want to shut down mid cam brake in. Wish this was a roller cam motor but couldn't justify the cost for what I need it to do.

So... I know a full float rear axle needs gear oil for bearings also. Is front axle different? Sealed bearings in knuckle?

Asking for a friend.

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

So... I know a full float rear axle needs gear oil for bearings also. Is front axle different? Sealed bearings in knuckle?

Asking for a friend.

CT

Uh huh. Ya,so on a front D60 there are oil seals right at diff bearings, tubes are dry. This vintage 60 has wheel bearings that are greased. Newer super duty 60s have sealed unit bearing.

Will have to heat and re-weld so those seals will have to come out. From research so far, a D60 knuckle turn is a real bear. OA torch, sledge, elbow grease.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I assume the 35mm bar is on the front? The front bar is fairly large and most F250 don't have rear bar at all. My 2000 F250 had a 1.125 rear bar from factory.

My crew cab 4x4 99 F350 had no rear sway bar, but my extended 2wd 99 F250 has one. I can't recall if I had the "camper" package on the 4x4 or not, which may be the differentiator.

 

[csp]

Filled master cylinder and started bleeding brakes. One of the AN fitting on m/c was leaking. They are inverted flare to AN, which isn't the best as there is no rotational slip beween tube and nut, and it is one piece. snugged up a bit more and tightened AN line, but AN nut easily mushroomed on threads. So AN lines are junk.

So was the leak on the inverted flare side or the AN side?

I'm having trouble getting a hard line on the frame at the front axle to seal to the inverted flare to AN fitting I'm using. I think I'm going to have to cut the end of the hard line off and redo the double flare. I may try another adapter first to rule that out.

 

[rattle_snake]

So was the leak on the inverted flare side or the AN side?

I'm having trouble getting a hard line on the frame at the front axle to seal to the inverted flare to AN fitting I'm using. I think I'm going to have to cut the end of the hard line off and redo the double flare. I may try another adapter first to rule that out.

Well not sure exactly but it started on IF side. I tightened IF side, then started to carefully snug AN.... I assume if I got a new line the adapter would still leak at master. They are both hard steel, hard to seal while rotating. OEM wouldn't do it that way.
I have all the parts to build curly Q lines. So plan to do that just to get past this issue and on to the next.

 

[rattle_snake]

Some pic of high current wiring. Used 2 ga with 4 ga lugs that fit tight. Used compression hex crimper for a robust connection, aka bolt cutter style.
Start wire is off so it can't accidently get bumped. EFI ground goes right to bat-.

I used a few insulated clamps to secure 2 ga wire so it could not chafe anywhere. One on oil pan, another on alt case. Voltage sense is on alt post.
Main ground point is engine block, 2ga to batt and frame. 4 ga strap to fender, 8ga engine to cab at firewall.

I also added 4 ag gnd for audio amp. Other side of stud has twin 8 ga to amplifier. This seems to help compared to the crusty OEM gnd at firewall.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made some new brake lines to replace the AN hoses. For SnGs, I tightened up the other AN3 fitting to see what would happen. It didn't ever snug/stop just mushroomed and failed. Chinese junk I guess (Allstar Performance brand).

So I looked at the stock lines and pondered design criteria. Instead of one loop like stock, I made the lines zig-zag along the engine bay contours. I figure this method has similar freedom of movement due to number of bends.




Engine bay pretty much complete.

 

[zmotorsports]

Beautiful job on the brake lines Justin. Very meticulously done.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Mike. It is non-trivial to get them parallel with uniform gap, but doing so doesn't help much other than looks.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks Mike. It is non-trivial to get them parallel with uniform gap, but doing so doesn't help much other than looks.

Agreed, but it looks clean and professionally done. Getting lines parallel and consistent to some is easier said than done. When I was building sand rails I routinely got comments about my brake lines and hydraulic clutch lines which to me didn't seem like that big of a deal but they sure aroused a lot of attention for some reason.

 

[rattle_snake]

So I pressure tested coolant system, dry, with compressed air. All parts are new. It leaked all around water pump. Used high tack gasket sealer as I have for last 20 years on stuff like this. I snugged up bolts but still have some bubbles.
Don't think it is warped surfaces, as that would leak in one or a few places, but not everywhere. I used a reasonable amount of glue, try not to be excessive.
Do paper gaskets need liquid to swell and seal? Is air pressure only a valid test?

 

[LXCam]

Looking great J!. But that's crazy, when you said it leaked I thought one location but everywhere?. I gotta ask, any chance the bolts are too long and bottoming out?. Past that and considering it appears to be everywhere I'd suggest not using front porch screen door material for a gasket

 

[zmotorsports]

How much pressure are you applying Justin? You should be able to apply up to what the cap/system is rated at and maybe just a tad more.

When testing cooling systems I go the opposite direction and pull a vacuum on the system then cap it off and ensure it holds. I will usually pull it down to around 20-24Hg and then let it sit for 15-25 minutes to see if it will hold, usually while I'm getting coolant and other things ready to fill. If it holds then I put the pickup tube into the coolant and open the valve allowing the vacuum to pull in the required amount of coolant.

Basically both methods check for leaks with the vacuum allowing easy refill of the system.

As to your question about paper gaskets they aren't as prevalent as they once were but when I do use them I apply a light coating of Gaskacinch to the gaskets then install. That leak seems a bit suspicious where it is such a broad area, usually it will be a smaller section not sealing like adjacent to where a bolt through hole is from being somewhat deformed.

 

[rattle_snake]

Looking great J!. But that's crazy, when you said it leaked I thought one location but everywhere?. I gotta ask, any chance the bolts are too long and bottoming out?. Past that and considering it appears to be everywhere I'd suggest not using front porch screen door material for a gasket

Bolts are good. Like other aspects, I went OCD and made a chart of what length went where, into water, oil, and then got SS SHCSs of appropriate length. lower left bolt, if too long, will hit cam sprocket.

How much pressure are you applying Justin? You should be able to apply up to what the cap/system is rated at and maybe just a tad more.

When testing cooling systems I go the opposite direction and pull a vacuum on the system then cap it off and ensure it holds. I will usually pull it down to around 20-24Hg and then let it sit for 15-25 minutes to see if it will hold, usually while I'm getting coolant and other things ready to fill. If it holds then I put the pickup tube into the coolant and open the valve allowing the vacuum to pull in the required amount of coolant.

Basically both methods check for leaks with the vacuum allowing easy refill of the system.

As to your question about paper gaskets they aren't as prevalent as they once were but when I do use them I apply a light coating of Gaskacinch to the gaskets then install. That leak seems a bit suspicious where it is such a broad area, usually it will be a smaller section not sealing like adjacent to where a bolt through hole is from being somewhat deformed.

I started with 5 psi and found leak right away. Cap is rated at 13 psi, and will vent excess right about at 13.
I pulled off fan, p/s pump and so on and torqued all bolts to 20. still leaking over large areas. I think I didn't use enough sealer (permatex hi-tack), and not on both sided of everything. It is a 4 piece sandwich with 3 gaskets so need to apply to all 12 surfaces. Got some new gaskets ordered, plan to blow it apart and reseal. At least everything is clean and new. I did put break-in oil in it already but no water in system yet to contaminate it. Have to pull radiator to get my homemade balancer puller in there.

 

[nsula_country]

That is a setback, but good to find early. I would have probably just dumped coolant into the system, found the leak, had to drain and change oil...

I have used Permatex Aviation gasket sealant exclusively since my teens. Rarely will I use any other gasket dressing. I like it. It works. It doesn't harden.

CT

 

[TLCObsession]

I missed it somewhere - who makes the relay/fuse block you are using. Such a sanitary install!

 

[rattle_snake]

That is a setback, but good to find early. I would have probably just dumped coolant into the system, found the leak, had to drain and change oil...

I have used Permatex Aviation gasket sealant exclusively since my teens. Rarely will I use any other gasket dressing. I like it. It works. It doesn't harden.

CT

Yes that is the sealant I used. Looks like I didn't apply to both surfaces at the pump/backing plate. It is also leaking in one place at timing cover/block, so everything needs to come apart, as if it is leaking on the other side it goes into crank case, oil. Don't want to break-in cam with a milkshake.

 

[rattle_snake]

I missed it somewhere - who makes the relay/fuse block you are using. Such a sanitary install!

Online LED Store

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MR64XK1/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Ohmthis]

Justin, do you have a picture of the positive stud where all of your #12 red wires go? I’m going to be doing a relay/fuse box same as yours. Ive had it for months and talk about it on one of my YouTube videos. I used individual relays and soldered the individual wires onto a #8 to go to the starter solenoid. It takes a lot of heat and I’d love a different approach. Thanks! Btw, I have always had huge success with anerobic gasket maker. It goes on thin and seals amazing.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, do you have a picture of the positive stud where all of your #12 red wires go? I’m going to be doing a relay/fuse box same as yours. Ive had it for months and talk about it on one of my YouTube videos. I used individual relays and soldered the individual wires onto a #8 to go to the starter solenoid. It takes a lot of heat and I’d love a different approach. Thanks! Btw, I have always had huge success with anerobic gasket maker. It goes on thin and seals amazing.

Hi Ω,
The six, red 12 ga wires that feed fuses go to the fender mounted solenoid stud on battery side. I think this is best pic showing the connection. The bundle is sleeved and kind of disappears in the tangle of wiring.


I used to solder lots of things, but I am now a crimp convert, like OEMs. Even with appropriate equipment it is hard to solder large gauge without wicking solder up into wire.

I have added anerobic sealer to my arsenal recently. My understanding is that it is more suited for thin gaps on hard parts. Have you used on paper gaskets?

Since there are so many wires that need battery connection, I tried my best to minimize the number of ring terminals by combining wires into a single lug where ever possible.

 

[rattle_snake]

Well turns out I put gasket glue on 10 of 12 surfaces and it was leaking on the 2 I neglected. Can see were gasket came off clean on one side of backing plate and the other adhered and separated.


I left room between cross member and oil pan to allow this job but wasn't planning on doing it so soon...
Although gasket adhered enough to separate on disassembly, I can see that glue was not applied to block surface itself.

I don't know how much glue I need, but I know how much I'm going to use next time.

 

[nsula_country]

Aviation Gasket Sealant.

Brown, gooey, brushes on. No leaks!

CT

 

[Ohmthis]

Justin, I see what you did. You combined the (6) #12 wires into one crimp. That is very good looking wiring and matches the OEM very well. Yep, I brought a #8 from the battery into the “cab” area to feed relays for EEC power, Fuel pump, ignition, and mass air/O2 sensor power. I needed to take several wires off of the #8. I have since found barrel crimp couplings for larger size wire, but did not have anything at the time.
Yes, I have used the anerobic gasket maker on paper with very good results. It lasts forever and goes on pretty easily. I do want to try the aviation gasket maker, but would have to order it to the store or my house. Seems I forget when I need it.

 

[Ohmthis]

Aviation Gasket Sealant.

Brown, gooey, brushes on. No leaks!

CT

Once opened how long does it last before hardening?

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Once opened how long does it last before hardening?

I've had a can/bottle for about 10 years that I use when necessary, just keep the lid sealed tight!

 

[nsula_country]

I've had a can/bottle for about 10 years that I use when necessary, just keep the lid sealed tight!

What Outlaw said. If it has a shelf life, I haven't hit it. I usually buy the small jar. Can coat MANY gaskets with 4 oz.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-80019?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8fr7BRDSARIsAK0Qqr6GuuCGIDYhikZGo13ja0gia5tJL4BGYHSH0d1RJW-MWfIbUdJ8CFcaAqAEEALw_wcB

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

'Vintage' example, gooey mess...

 

[rattle_snake]

Another lake camping trip complete. Had a 2nd boat and 4 families this time. Weather in October is perfect, no wind, ski down middle of 20 mile long lake all day. Had to 'camp' in campground, which isn't really camping to me, but only option as lake is full, no beach and fire closures.
With gym reopening I have been able to lift heavy including lots of core exercises. Noticeable improvement in old man water sport capabilities. Rode the Airchair over 5 miles in addition to slalom and wake board. Only crashes were from poorly executed aerial maneuvers.

Sidebar rant:
The new thing in watersports in wake surfing. I don't understand. Buy $100,000+ boat that goes really slow and makes a giant wake (although tiny compare to a real ocean wave) and stand on board next to it. Fill boat with water and run engine at worst possible fuel consumption. Looks slow and boring. No jumps, air time....
Please explain, thanks.
And these creeping barges mess up the smooth water for the rest of us. Used to be jet skis and 'tubers that drove erratically and made a mess of things, but the flatbillers in their barges are actually worse, ugh.

rant over, back to incoherent rambling....

I did the 'superdoodie door seal mod' before I left. This is pulling surgical tubing into door seal to make it thicker and seal tighter. With camper the air flow over A pillar is changed and makes an extremely annoying kazoo noise in the wrong wind direction or speed. I did only driver door for now. As expected have to slam door so moved latch slightly. Hope it breaks in and shuts better over time like a new seal does. If so then I'll do the pass front door also. Did fix the noise issues, which is good.

All the equipment performed properly. Trying to up my post-trip clean-up game. Not quite to Zmotorsports or 4 FN 27 level, but better than I have been able to muster lately. Been busy, 3 camp trips in last 4 weekends.


Clean up my Honda genny, had a 1000 miles of bugs carcasses dried on. Inspection and prep for storage. Need to touch up paint on the carrier.
Boat trailer TPMS need new batteries, and so on.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

1. With gym reopening I have been able to lift heavy including lots of core exercises. Noticeable improvement in old man water sport capabilities.....

2. Sidebar rant:
....but the flatbillers....

3. I did the 'superdoodie door seal mod' before I left. This is pulling surgical tubing into door seal to make it thicker and seal tighter. With camper the air flow over A pillar is changed and makes an extremely annoying kazoo noise in the wrong wind direction or speed. I did only driver door for now. As expected have to slam door so moved latch slightly. Hope it breaks in and shuts better over time like a new seal does. If so then I'll do the pass front door also. Did fix the noise issues, which is good.

4. Trying to up my post-trip clean-up game. Not quite to Zmotorsports or 4 FN 27 level, but better than I have been able to muster lately.

1. I realized the other day I need to get back to work on my shoulders...I made a beer run in the '49 and jumped hard on the throttle on the way home. The hard 1-2 tire chirp sent a couple of Coors stubbies rolling under the seat...in my ignorance I reached under hand twisted upside down to maneuver and realized my right shoulder is still a mess.

2. Flatbillers...nuff said. Same dudes probably have 24"+ wheels with rubber bands.

3. A quiet, wind noise free cab is excellent, and I will spend mucho dollars on new quality weatherstripping to make that happen. Never tried the surgical tubing idea, but have heard of it. Most of my seals are trash by the time I would think to do that.

4. Mike and Pat are showoffs making the rest of us look bad

 

[rattle_snake]

3. The tubing sleeve is for new weather strip that is just too thin.
4. I think they just have acute OCD (Over Cleanliness Disorder). I used to have it, then had kids and now I struggle to prioritize. I use their posts as inspiration to improve.

 

[PhantomEB]

'Vintage' example, gooey mess...

When the shutdown was wrapping up at work, I was told to go clean out the consumables cabinet. Co worker was like just throw them out......nope I got all shift....broke out the degreaser and turned 4 cans that looked like the one posted. Now they all got a couple more usages out of them. Work then instructed my co worker to minimize all disposal of consumables, made him empty out half cans of antiseize and make full ones. Yeah he was one cranky dude who took the first lay-off. I am back to running maintenance after this vacation. This is why I keep **** clean and organized.