v3.0 of my camping audio system.
Version history:
v1 - Free 6x9s installed in small boxes in my boat, with a long cord. When boat camping, the speakers could be removed from their home and placed on bow or gunnel to project sound onto the beach. Subwoofer could be turned off to reduce power consumption. Worked well.
v1.1 - same 6x9s, repainted, added handles and straps to hang on truck camper. added 2ch amplifier ($0) and a 25' 12v power cord. This allowed the system to be set up by campfire or table away from power source, so it could be run at a lower volume. Better option that running high power vehicle audio system with doors or windows open for several reasons (dead battery, bugs, etc.)
v2.0 - same 6x9s as v1.1, but added a 10" subwoofer ($0, worn out) with a 4 ch amp ($0) on the sub box. Power cord was too long and undersized so amp would brown-out when bass hit. So added a motorcycle battery ($0) on box to have local energy storage. Solved issue but made it heavy, awkward. One amp channel took a dump, so time to start over.
v3.0 - New everything. Lighter, louder, more efficient. Bluetooth interface. I have a connection at Rockford, so total cost of the rig is around $200 including all wiring and accessories.
The goal of the system is to have medium volume music in my camp. I usually camp as far from other humans as I can (or at least it justifies large tires), however sometimes it is in a camp ground. So I want a strong low end but not blast my music far away. I want the system mobile, to be used with or without my truck camper, so 12v it is. The easy/cheap solution would be all-in-one PA gear and a generator, but I don't want to require
AC power or hear genny. v2.0 worked OK but was heavy and a pain to set up and break down. I wanted to keep cost low in case it gets stolen or rained on while I am away.
System architecture is basically same as all my other vehicle systems; single 10, 4 ch amp, one pair of mains.
So lightest/cheapest 10" sub, R2 dual 2 ohm. Grill is for another series but I was able to modify it to fit. Mains are T152 components. Amp is a full range class D, 125 x 4 into 2 ohms. Sub gets 250w, mains 62+62 for total of 375w.
Step one was to build a sub box. Used no fasteners, just clamps. Inset driver baffle distance of grill protrusion to help protect and give some style. Outside dimension are a 12.5" cube, however ID depth is not equal to the others, a cube is worst box shape for standing wave. But goal here isn't best audio performance.
This equipment will get banged up and abused so finish needs to be durable and simple. No point in making it nice and perfect, even if you have moderate to severe OCD. So just oil based paint I had on hand, applied with a foam roller, because I'm too lazy to clean HPLV gun multiple times. Painted baffle red for some style. Could have painted everything red like my shop speakers, but it seems like a bit much.
Main enclosures build in same fashion. Box volume is arbitrary, just made them as small as possible. With high pass filter on amp (@ 80 Hz) the cone won't move much and low frequency operation where box size matters can be ignored.
Next step was to figure out how to mount and package the amp, panel and connectors. The Bluetooth adapter had long wiring and needed RCA adapters, but no room for them. Ended up adapting directly to the amp's 3mm input connector. Speakers connect with XLRs, as they and cables are cheap and easy. Can bypass the BT interface and use a 3.5mm cable too. One cigar jack and 2 USB jacks for phone charging or whatever.
Bent up a metal box to house the stuff, but it had sharp corners and didn't seem right. So tried again with MDF. Had to figure out how to disassemble the 3mm connector to get the XLRs installed through their holes.
Stuffed all the wiring in and tested the system. Still get a 0.5 V drop in 10 ft, of 10 ga cabling.
Made some handles from a broken rein. Doesn't really go with theme but what I had on hand. Figured out rough center of mass and placed according, so they balance nice.
Main use is to hang from camper jacks so made straps long enough. Can be placed on back, right or left sides. XLR cables are 6' and 10'.
So how does it sound? About as expected I guess. A bit more capable that what it replaced. The main channels are turned way down to get the balance I want from sub. In an outside environment without reflections, it takes a lot of power to get low frequency energy. It will typically get used with a 'house battery' so don't have to worry about vehicle not starting. The volt gauge is handy.
Compared to shop system, it's a baby, but will do the job in it's intended environment.
haha. 15 years ago, that wouldn't have been as shocking for sure.
