rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

What compressor are you using Justin? The OEM 400lb unit?

Could you substitute a Sanden 508 or a Sanden 7176(this is what I have in the Z28, and will be putting in the '49)? More compact package, better compressor for R134a...

The truck came with a Sanden 9285 which is a R12 unit. Assume when it was installed the condenser/drier/hoses were also replaced.

 

[nsula_country]

I went through this. It's in my project thread.

Bought an adapter bracket to replace York compressor with a Sanden 508. 134a condenser coil, new idler, dryer, hoses, fittings, hydraulic crimper, 134a expansion valve, new heater water valve. Firewall HVAC box untouched.

It works, kinda. AC seems to be doing what it can. Temp/Pressure is textbook. I think it is the door seals are all shot, leaking air, diluting the evap coil air. And I think the condenser is too small.

Thought about going the route you are going... Have a new Motorcraft fan switch on the bench. High speed is intermittent... Thrown about $800 at it so far. Vintage air or the like is looking better and better.

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

I went through this. It's in my project thread.

Bought an adapter bracket to replace York compressor with a Sanden 508. 134a condenser coil, new idler, dryer, hoses, fittings, hydraulic crimper, 134a expansion valve, new heater water valve. Firewall HVAC box untouched.

It works, kinda. AC seems to be doing what it can. Temp/Pressure is textbook. I think it is the door seals are all shot, leaking air, diluting the evap coil air. And I think the condenser is too small.

Thought about going the route you are going... Have a new Motorcraft fan switch on the bench. High speed is intermittent... Thrown about $800 at it so far. Vintage air or the like is looking better and better.

CT

I would think that the 73+ factory AC system would be much more capable, as they were not an afterthought. Dash vents, an HCAV box made for AC. I would go through the HVAC box before scrapping the system for aftermarket. My buddy's 78 F150's factory AC system was more than enough for Arizona.

 

[nsula_country]

I would think that the 73+ factory AC system would be much more capable, as they were not an afterthought. Dash vents, an HCAV box made for AC. I would go through the HVAC box before scrapping the system for aftermarket. My buddy's 78 F150's factory AC system was more than enough for Arizona.

I plan to investigate more once I pull the FE from its home. Have more dance floor to work with. From childhood memories though, GM seemed to have WAY better A/C than Ford.

Haven't given up on it... Yet. I have done nothing from the firewall to the dash vents. Could just be a dirty evap coil.

Following along for the ride. Curious how your rehab of the HVAC box works out.

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

Working away on many projects, active, stalled, neglected and adding more as I go. Trying to keep truck A/C project going while addressing maintenance on other things, projects around the property.

Removed the last six cottonwood trees, 25 years old and looking like ****. Diseased and lots of dead wood in them, provide little usable shade on north fence line. Had three die and eight others removed previously, so total of 17 removed, which was a ****-ton of leaves every year. Putting in 2 more ash trees (have 5 now) and an Elm to replace in different locations. Will have to put up anti-horse barriers, as they destroy everything they can, living or not. Plan to use t-posts and 5' no climb I have on hand, which will have to stay for many years until they are mature enough to survive.

Getting things lined out to finish paver job I half-assed after shop build. Going to hire it out, 1000 sq ft, repairs, concrete demo, haul away and so on. Adding pavers to a few new areas in front and back yards. Lots of details, materials are hard to get, prices are up, I'm cheap.

Finally prioritized boat maintenance. Been avoiding it all winter, headaches make boating miserable at best, hard to get motivated. Went through axles/brakes, repacked bearing and installed new seals. All looked OK as everything was new 3 years ago. I appears from looing at grease color/signatures that adding brakes to 2nd axle helped reduce heat on rear axle.
Drive oil change is always a challenge with hull so low on trailer, but with recently filled in irrigation ditch section I was able to use the area to my advantage.

Of course a wind storm came in and filled the interior with tree junk, and the oil pump tube popped off and sprayed hypoid all over me. Typical for the task. Changed engine oil, fuel filter and so on as well. Last trip out finally had repeat of random engine failure, so still have some more items to look into.

Went for a short drive towing boat, which weights around 7500. Truck did better than I thought it would. swerve, heavy braking. Weighed truck it is now 6060 lbs with me and fuel. So a heavy pig with enough wheelbase. Don't plan to tow long distance with it, but can if needed. Wife wants to use it to haul horses, just because, should be good with full trailer, 3 horses, 6k or so. New rear leaf spring rate are a good fit for many uses.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Creative use for the cement ditch, Justin!

I too, have been focusing on maintenance both vehicular and on our acreage.

 

[rattle_snake]

Racked up enough bonus point to finally draw a decent archery elk rut tag! So bought a new bow to replace my vintage 1992 Martin I got as a teenager. Still works, but in need of yet another string, and outdated by a few decades.
I'm correct-handed so choices limited compared to you other people. Ended up with a lower-end Bear product that is still more than enough. Light, compact, fast in comparison to the old. Out of the box can stack tight groups at 20y, didn't even touch rest or sight. Yet. Of course I can't just leave it alone and be happy, so some mods planned and fine tuning needed before deployment. My dad is done with archery and gave me all his stuff, my daughters are showing interest so going to re-fletch some old arrows for a youth bow I got from a friend. Looking forward to teaching and spending time with my girls, and scouting for the hunt.

 

[rattle_snake]

Creative use for the cement ditch, Justin!

I too, have been focusing on maintenance both vehicular and on our acreage.

yes, took awhile to think of it. I dug up and re-shaped my front yard area that I used to use since last service. I've spent most of my creative time and money on the old Ford over the last 2 years, so transitioning back to house and property. Wife wants a horse arena that can double as dry area for horse during irrigation. Sounds like a good excuse for a tractor?

There are a few areas of the property that are just unfinished or ghetto from PO that I am trying to finish. Knocking a few out each year, I'm already at 90%+. A few more years should have most things dialed in.

 

[bugnut]

Justin congrats on the tag draw. Went black bear a couple years back with a friend who had picked up a 20yr newer Bear bow and he too, like you was able to put together great groups out of the box. Good luck on the hunt!

 

[RCL]

Congrats on the Arizona elk tag.
Should be an excellent hunt.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks guys, looking forward to spending some time outdoors with my hunting partner. We go way back in, till you don't see any humans. Unit 5BS, beautiful country.

 

[rattle_snake]

Puttering on AC system. The vents were fubar, the vanes didn't get along with one another and the control slide didn't contact at all. So I had a long conversation with them and myself until I understood the root of their problems. Added some shims and bent things until they were robust enough.


The face trim was missing a chunk below the vents so I cut a piece of PVC in the rough shape and painted. Close enough. Also painted over the woodgrain, I assume that the A/C was made for the 'Ranger' optioned trucks with it's wood trim, so all A/C boxes were the same(?). Explorers were a mid year option package, but didn't get any of the other wood ****. So now it is 'camera case' black, haha.


Installed a new fan motor assembly. For some reason I had to clean and paint all the bare metal inside the HVAC box, which cannot be seen, makes no difference and no one cares. I over-evaluated each seal and it's effect on cabin climate change, leaving most alone, and screwed it shut.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Hoping all the changes make a nice cool cab for your enjoyment.

At least you don't have the humidity to contend with as well. Will you be adding any tint to the fishbowl? I have a love/hate relationship with tint on "classic" pickups.

 

[rattle_snake]

Hoping all the changes make a nice cool cab for your enjoyment.

At least you don't have the humidity to contend with as well. Will you be adding any tint to the fishbowl? I have a love/hate relationship with tint on "classic" pickups.

Hoping for at least 'not miserably hot' cab. I'm on the fence with tint for for same reasons. Thinking of pulling headliner to install bubble insulation underneath and perhaps a 'Murican flag to cover or paint existing headliner like a old glory.

 

[Bodj Built]

Seriously in love with the ol' girl. Such a great looking truck. You've been doing a great job

 

[nsula_country]

Hoping for at least 'not miserably hot' cab. I'm on the fence with tint for for same reasons. Thinking of pulling headliner to install bubble insulation underneath and perhaps a 'Murican flag to cover or paint existing headliner like a old glory.

I have a partial roll of R6 foil/bubble/foil left over from shop HVAC project. I like the idea of using some between headliner and roof of cab!

I also am mixed on tint on a classic.

CT

 

[ChevyEFI]

Thanks guys, looking forward to spending some time outdoors with my hunting partner. We go way back in, till you don't see any humans. Unit 5BS, beautiful country.

Great unit, but harder and harder to get drawn for rifle. I put in elsewhere last year and was drawn. Guess I should read the draw brochure on bow draws and consider that. I dont want to go years without a draw.

I also am mixed on tint on a classic.

CT

you have humidity to cool you off.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice work on the A/C system Justin and the pictures of the truck towing the boat are AWESOME!

 

[rattle_snake]

Great unit, but harder and harder to get drawn for rifle. I put in elsewhere last year and was drawn. Guess I should read the draw brochure on bow draws and consider that. I dont want to go years without a draw.

it's 5-6 years to get a tag even for archery. I have done some cow and depravation hunts but they really just waste bonus points and a chance at a real hunt. So wait it out. Can get deer tag in 17A every 2-3 years.

you have humidity to cool you off.

took me a minute to figure out who this was for, then I realized just how funny it is

Nice work on the A/C system Justin and the pictures of the truck towing the boat are AWESOME!

Thanks mike. Long journey to go. I'm a hack at auto A/C, been doing it for awhile but have more questions than answers.
How much refrigerant will I need? (R12) system is a mis-mash.
How do I know when I have enough?
How much oil will I need? switch to PAG?
Should I flush old oil out now while system is apart?
Should I convert to 134A now? I have R12 captured and some new stuff too.

I'm building all new hoses, new dryer. So now is the time to decide. Lost, confused..

 

[OutlawDrifter]

it's 5-6 years to get a tag even for archery. I have done some cow and depravation hunts but they really just waste bonus points and a chance at a real hunt. So wait it out. Can get deer tag in 17A every 2-3 years.


How much refrigerant will I need? (R12) system is a mis-mash.
How do I know when I have enough?
How much oil will I need? switch to PAG?
Should I flush old oil out now while system is apart?
Should I convert to 134A now? I have R12 captured and some new stuff too.

I'm building all new hoses, new dryer. So now is the time to decide. Lost, confused..

I think they hand out deer tags here in KS with free guns


I'm by no means an expert on A/C systems, but you should base your "how much and is it enough" on pressure in the system. If you have the stuff to go R12, I say do it at this time(R12 cools better to begin with, especially in a system designed around it). I would still flush the system and go with new mineral oil. If you decided to go R134a, now would be a great time to upgrade your condenser, if you haven't, to a parallel flow unit.

My Z28 was originally an R12 system, a change to a parallel flow condenser, 7176 compressor (from the R4 pancake) ,and using the Ford "orange" orifice tube, it easily cools to sub 45* temps at the vent in 90*/80% humidity weather. R134a needs to run down to lower pressure than R12, so keep that in mind, you'll need an adjustable switch or a new setup for the change in pressure.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Marc.
The system already has a more modern parallel flow condenser with o-ring fittings. Considered getting a larger one, but I already have the largest universal one I was able to find, so cleaned it up for reuse.

System uses an expansion valve. I bought a new pressure switch, looks like it is for 134 at 29/300 psi. Not sure what old switch is, but it's for R12.

For pressures, they are dependent on ambient temps, engine rpm, airflow across condenser. The tables only consider temp, so I can get answer that is OK or not by varying the others. Adding refrigerant doesn't seem to change the pressures much in my experience. The pressure difference reading on gauges is that imposed by expansion valve, I think... which is dependent on evap temp and air flow.

I have heard one method to determine if there is enough refrigerant, is if any liquid (unevaporated) is exiting the evaporator. The suction line would have some hot liquid, should not be really cold. So add until it's no longer cold, but speculation as I am no expert.

 

[nsula_country]

you have humidity to cool you off.

We have got jokes!

You desert boys just don't know!

CT

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Thanks Marc.
The system already has a more modern parallel flow condenser with o-ring fittings. Considered getting a larger one, but I already have the largest universal one I was able to find, so cleaned it up for reuse.

System uses an expansion valve. I bought a new pressure switch, looks like it is for 134 at 29/300 psi. Not sure what old switch is, but it's for R12.

For pressures, they are dependent on ambient temps, engine rpm, airflow across condenser. The tables only consider temp, so I can get answer that is OK or not by varying the others. Adding refrigerant doesn't seem to change the pressures much in my experience. The pressure difference reading on gauges is that imposed by expansion valve, I think... which is dependent on evap temp and air flow.

I have heard one method to determine if there is enough refrigerant, is if any liquid (unevaporated) is exiting the evaporator. The suction line would have some hot liquid, should not be really cold. So add until it's no longer cold, but speculation as I am no expert.

If you're already that far into the R134a setup, might be worth selling the R12 you have. I think I've got my pressures switched at 27ish and around 400 on the high side. Hit the system with some denatured alcohol and blow it out before you go back with the PAG oil. Not sure on quantity, 4-8ounces, I did 4 in my empty compressor and 4ish in the low side.

The last method might work for sure! If I don't know how much I need, I will generally slowly add refrigerant until the compressor stops cycling constantly, then add until my gauges read where I want them. I'll also hold the RPM around 1500 during this and take readings at the vents with the digital thermometer. Once the temp stops dropping is another good sign you have enough refrigerant.

And again, I'm no expert, just passing my experiences along.

 

[nsula_country]

If you have a parallel flow condenser... (From pic, looks like one.) Sanden compressor. Go 134a.

Buy line flush kit or denatured alcohol to flush evap core. Probably cannot effectively flush parallel flow coil. Replace all hoses. New 134a 2T TXV.

PAG 100 oil. If new compressor, pour out oil, measure. Replace with equal amount new PAG 100. If used, 4oz. Remaining 4oz into dryer, condenser, discharge lines (high side).

We know how to stay cool in hot AND humid conditions!! 2 variables in the equation!!

Binary switch for mechanical fan. Trinary switch for electric fans.

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the feedback. Not decided on r12 vs 134a , have many other things to do on system.
Given that there is already mineral oil dissolved in the R12 I recovered, it is not really possible to 'change' the oil type to ease migration later. The cheapest, easiest solution is to just keep it R12, which should cool the best.

So I started by repositioning the engine back and down to allow a fan spacer to resolve interference with A/C pump/fan. Pulled motor mounts to hack them up. The root of the issue is that the engine cross member I built is up too high, making front of motor sit up too high as well. This puts fan blades up at radiator tank, further limiting clearance. Fan shroud has to fit in between also.


So it made sense to address the root issue, low motor, but that causes other clearance issues and rework of other systems. Not a lot of room to lower about 1/4", leaving less than 1/4" to pan. Also moved drivetrain back about 1/2" or so, what was left of the adjustment range at trans mount. This lowered fan about 1/2", and gets fan blades below upper radiator tank, which should be enough.

Now blades are below tank, room for 1/2 spacer, in theory.


When motor comes out for rear main reseal, I will notch the crossmember slightly to allow additional oil plan clearance. This will allow plenty of room for pan to drop down for front timing cover R&R with motor in chassis (again, haha). Or perhaps lower engine further in future.

Right header is now very tight. Should still be able to remove it. Should. Transfer case almost contacts cab floor bracing. I notched, but now it is almost touching again. poo. Can lower at trans mount, but driveshaft is already close to trans cross member. Good times.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Wow...sounds similar to the debacle I had when I first built that Hybrid 8.8/10bolt rear axle for the Camaro.

Welding the LCA mounts too far forward and not realizing it until after the rest of the suspension and driveshaft were completed was a problem and required rework. Also why I needed a larger shop...haha.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished up motor relocation project. Used mock up bushings and tacked the mounts in place with shim between oil pan rear sump and crossmember.


After final weld/warp, I used press to flatten out the pad so holes line up nicely.


Put left side back in to start on right, and saw that the FRONT sump of oil pan was almost touching the crossmember. So then had to clearance the cross member to get reasonable gap. Engine had to be this low for any benefit to come from the whole job.


Looked like a 1/2" fan spacer would now fit so found one, but pilot was to small (BBF is 0.750") and couldn't be hogged out. So instead of waiting a few weeks just whipped one up in the lathe out of 2.5" aluminum stock. Drilled a 3/4 hole all the way through and used some 3/4 stock for pilot so depth is adjustable, friction fit.


But like the rest of the job, nothing is easy. Fan clutch won't allow use of longer bolt to accommodate spacer, so had to use studs. Studs plus fan just barley fit between radiator and water pump.


And my new custom fan shroud now has hole in wrong place, so re-worked the lower half with plasma. But fit to fan was too tight, so increased diameter by 1/2" as well.


The upper half was toss and start over. Fan center is down about 3/4", so no longer need to bump the ring out of the top of the box. Much easier to fab. couple cuts, 5 bends, booger welds, done.


But fit was too tight on top. I left an inch of overlap that would allow vertical adjustment, but hit upper radiator tank. So made a relief for rad tank to allow it to slide up and get fan-to-shroud gap where I want it.


So all that work to get things back to were they were. Looks about the same, but now with spacer to allow room for A/C pump.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

All it's takes is time/effort/money...good work, looks very clean!

 

[zmotorsports]

Great work Justin.

I enjoy checking in to see what mods your doing.

 

[harley jim]

Looks good Justin.
Funny how when you move something the chain reaction starts.

Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Monza Harry]

Well Justin I'll add this:
That which we obtain too easily, we esteem too lightly.
Thomas Paine
Credit to: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/thomas_paine_159458
Harry translation: Sometimes you just have to work for it [why so hard everytime? (Crying Emoji Here)]
Looks like you beat it into submission though, with grace and beauty! Harry

 

[rattle_snake]

All it's takes is time/effort/money...good work, looks very clean!

Thanks, just plugging away. More in the putting/tinkering stage now. I'm particular (so they say) so taking my time to do it how I want.

Great work Justin.

I enjoy checking in to see what mods your doing.

Thanks Mike. Once A/C is back in I will be able to enjoy the truck over the summer. Getting hot here...

Looks good Justin.
Funny how when you move something the chain reaction starts.

haha yes, I knew what the chain was so I avoided for a while. But that is how engineering goes. Adapt and overcome.

Well Justin I'll add this:
That which we obtain too easily, we esteem too lightly.
Thomas Paine
Credit to: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/thomas_paine_159458
Harry translation: Sometimes you just have to work for it [why so hard everytime? (Crying Emoji Here)]
Looks like you beat it into submission though, with grace and beauty! Harry

Thanks Harry. I agree, thanks for sharing.

 

[rattle_snake]

On to the A/C condenser re-homing project. With addition of large transmission cooler the condenser no longer fit depth wise with grill assembly. Previous mounting was poor at best, so a complete revamp was needed. Looked for larger condensers but already had the largest universal one I could get, so cleaned it up for reuse. Built some mounts to use the existing holes in core support.


I wanted to piggy back on to the trans coolers lower rubber isolated mounts (6L OEM) so kept it simple and attached with 2 screws. Made some spacers to prevent mount rail collapse.


With condenser mounted, moved on to mods to grill support. First was the center bracket, added a jog in it to clear the condenser.


The big problem was depth to gill support, so had to narrow it down some. Was hoping to keep the hood latch ring intact for structural integrity. 1st pass attempt was to section out the minimum amount to get it all to work. But an old Ford is not perfectly strait or consistent, right side was much tighter and when front clip is removed/re-installed it will be different. So I went back and cut again for plenty of clearance knowing ring would have to go.


How it ended up. Still plenty of rigidity at latch. Plenty of clearance everywhere.

 

[rattle_snake]

Then onto hose routing. Previous routing was a hack, hoses through wiring holes, so needed a new plan. Relocating drier from fender to to core support, so was able to reuse OEM hole for hose to drier. Would like to make a new rubber bushing for it at some point, and another for the firewall.
For hose from pump, cut a hole (a big one, because I make everything too tight) then after fitting hose closed half of it back up.

Temporarily mounted old drier for mock-up, as the new one is filled with inert gas.

Them onto pump mounting. Will fab my own mounts for sanden pump. Plan to use DOM tubing rails that can be shimmed instead of a plate style. But steering pump really needs to be moved to make it right. Won't be able to get the belt off. I had a longer belt that put PS pump at a steeper angle, but the fluid pours out when truck is steep side angles. So bottom mount need to be redone to move pump to the left. Also have to create an idler/tensioner setup.

 

[rattle_snake]

Helping my friend with a bike build. He picked up a 1988 Honda 600 in pieces for cheap and has reassembled and been collecting parts for it. I think last time is ran/registered was 2006. His vision is to transform it into a more elemental chopper/bobber. Here is what we started with.

Step one is to chop off the back half. Cut off the ugly, make it custom. One seater now

Wish I had a bike lift. Boxed the frame were hacked off. Cut off rear foot pegs. Modified seat pan and made some mounts.

Rear fender is a cut down generic trailer fender. Welded some brace mounts on swing arm. Used the old chain as a spacer to set gap, gap can be tight as fender is mounted to swing arm and moves with it.

Rattle can paint job. Carbs rebuilt. Front brakes were full of orange jello, so need a good cleaning and some new parts. Replaced most of fuel system. Next step is to fab some side panels below seat and get it running again.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Cool transformation, I dig the whitewalls.

I had bobbed my 1100 V-Star, that was a fun/fast bike.

 

[zmotorsports]

Bike project is looking great Justin.

 

[C91x]

I built one of those 600's. They really look good with hardly any effort.


That side cover thing needs to go though.

 

[rattle_snake]

Cool transformation, I dig the whitewalls.

I had bobbed my 1100 V-Star, that was a fun/fast bike.

Whitewalls are out of my comfort zone but I think it looks good and fits the style.

Bike project is looking great Justin.

Thanks. Enjoying as I'm not making decisions, just creating. No rush and good to spend time with my friend.

I built one of those 600's. They really look good with hardly any effort.
That side cover thing needs to go though.

Yes just hack a bunch of stuff off and simplify. Looking forward to riding it.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made some more progress on A/C system. Have a lot of hours into it. Part of the 'problem' is that I am finding reasons to re-work, improve and turd polish things that were 'done'.

step -2 was to re-work the power steering mount. Move bottom of pump outward 1.5", this orients reservoir more vertical to prevent fluid loss and make room to tilt pump in to remove/install belt.



In addition to P/S interference the lower bolts on the compressor were very close to P/S belt and would chafe belt when deflected at high RPM. So compressor had to move up, might as well move in a bit also. I was avoiding making a big heavy mess of steel bracketry, so ended up with this.



The front of the compressor is supported by a simple link. The pair of bolts is for mock-up and replaced with a single long bolt to help align.

I welded all the dowels to make the mount just 2 pieces. Simple enough?

The OEM idler/tensioner I has wasn’t really usable so had to engineer a setup. I bought a generic idler that mounts with a bolt so I could fab with simple bar and dowel. Has a communist sized bolt though. Ended up using just 2 links to locate and support, one slotted to adjust. The extra slot fits down into water pump area and came out nice. Seems plenty rigid.

I wanted compressor as low and tight to the motor as possible to minimize it in the engine bay. I could have avoided moving engine by using alt belt, but pump would have to be above valve cover to clear, which would look like ****, among other problems. So ended up with this.

Step -1 was to address wiring. I had put in most provisions already including relay based inverter to work with logic low of Sniper EFI clutch control and clutch circuit including fuse & relay. The engine harness didn’t have any loose wires, so to add I had to rework and add a wire loom to include clutch wiring from firewall to motor. Bundled with distributor trigger. There were no provisions for refrigerant pressure switch, and no provisions to running wiring across core support. Decided to add some 3/4” EMT conduit using existing holes in core support. This will also support future wiring upgrade of headlights, then no wiring on left fender at all.

I debated where in clutch circuit to locate the pressure switch. There are 5 contacts in series that gate the clutch operation. I decided to place it pre-ECU so the EFI reads the final commanded clutch state. The EFI alters idle RPM depending on clutch state, is last in the chain, and finally controls the clutch itself. It also locks out clutch on startup and WOT. So dug into the relay box and made some mods. Used a 2-pin weather pack connector to connect into main harness. This way the connector shell can be removed to get wiring through conduit. Do not have to cut any wires to do maintenance, no zip ties.

While I was there I reworked the forward harness that contains horn, ECU ground, alt and stater wiring. Because, well, yes.

With pump, idler, and condenser mounted it was time to tackle refrigerant hoses. Temporarily mounted evap box in cab to mock-up hose lengths and clocking of fittings. Getting this thing in it’s hole is a major PITA! Could have tried to use old hoses but move drier so decided to start over and build my own hoses.

Used old drier for mock-up, still need to build a final mount for new one. Need to do something with firewall hole seal. Drilled a hole in firewall at specific location for hose clamp to get hose radius to look how I want. Has local A/C shop crimp the fittings and test fit them. Not too bad.

Still a long way to go on this. Have to pull evap box and mod interior firewall blankie and secure somehow during installation. Molded heater core hoses can’t be bought so got some 90s and unions to cobble something together. Connect control cables, wiring, coolant valve, purge system, leak test. Then can fill with R12 and see what happens. What could go wrong?