millwight.mike
Well-known member
There was a point in time I would laugh at you saying 20s. I have been doing a 28 on 28 rotation in the middle east for just over a year. 20s I don't leave my house. I keep my garage around 55 also.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Re-Purposed Machine Shop
- Thread starter hoyt
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Sprig Hiatus
My seasonal business is open and Matt is working there full time, so we're not spending much time at the shop. I have some post-opening work to do and then it's back to the cars.
We have taken the hotrods to a few cars shows on the weekends, however.
My seasonal business is open and Matt is working there full time, so we're not spending much time at the shop. I have some post-opening work to do and then it's back to the cars.
We have taken the hotrods to a few cars shows on the weekends, however.
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Street Rodder Tour Next Week
It's nice to be able to use the garage. My seasonal business has taken most of my time this summer and it has been way too hot to work in the garage.
I had to replace the motor in the exhaust fan; the old one was beyond repair. What a difference it makes!
My wife and I are taking the convertible on the Tour next week, so I'm doing some last minute things to get ready. I had the A/C serviced today and now I'm getting ready to pull the dash to fix a few loose wire gremlins.
I'll take it on a pre-Tour shakedown drive tomorrow. That gives me Friday and Saturday morning to fix anything that turns up (something always does).
FOLLOW-UP: The convertible did not do well enough to make the Streetrodder Road Tour to the Woodward Avenue dream Cruise in Detroit, so we took the coupe. That car suffered a ruined tire from a Detroit pothole and then the fuel pump died, but we made it home safe.
It's nice to be able to use the garage. My seasonal business has taken most of my time this summer and it has been way too hot to work in the garage.
I had to replace the motor in the exhaust fan; the old one was beyond repair. What a difference it makes!
My wife and I are taking the convertible on the Tour next week, so I'm doing some last minute things to get ready. I had the A/C serviced today and now I'm getting ready to pull the dash to fix a few loose wire gremlins.
I'll take it on a pre-Tour shakedown drive tomorrow. That gives me Friday and Saturday morning to fix anything that turns up (something always does).
FOLLOW-UP: The convertible did not do well enough to make the Streetrodder Road Tour to the Woodward Avenue dream Cruise in Detroit, so we took the coupe. That car suffered a ruined tire from a Detroit pothole and then the fuel pump died, but we made it home safe.
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Eagle Equipment lift malfunction
While working today with the car on the lift, it was time to raise it a little and I heard terrible noise. This is what caused the noise.
I was fortunate that the car was only about 5 feet off the ground. I placed a jackstand under the lift and lowered all four corners onto the safety stops. Supporting that corner with the big floor jack, my helper and I managed to get the car safely on the ground and off the lift.
I purchased the lift new in 2008 and until recently have only used it to store cars.
All the other cables appear undamaged, but a call to the manufacturer indicates that they may no longer carry the cables as replacement parts, so I'll need to source someone local that can fabricate a replacement. I hope Eagle will share the specs of the cable if they cannot provide the part.
FOLLOW-UP: Got a replacement cable from a referral on Hotrodders.com. It was a perfect fit, but used a metric nut instead of an SAE not like the other cable, but FastenAll came to the rescue. It's nice to have them only about a mile from the shop.
While working today with the car on the lift, it was time to raise it a little and I heard terrible noise. This is what caused the noise.
I was fortunate that the car was only about 5 feet off the ground. I placed a jackstand under the lift and lowered all four corners onto the safety stops. Supporting that corner with the big floor jack, my helper and I managed to get the car safely on the ground and off the lift.
I purchased the lift new in 2008 and until recently have only used it to store cars.
All the other cables appear undamaged, but a call to the manufacturer indicates that they may no longer carry the cables as replacement parts, so I'll need to source someone local that can fabricate a replacement. I hope Eagle will share the specs of the cable if they cannot provide the part.
FOLLOW-UP: Got a replacement cable from a referral on Hotrodders.com. It was a perfect fit, but used a metric nut instead of an SAE not like the other cable, but FastenAll came to the rescue. It's nice to have them only about a mile from the shop.
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dcmus
Well-known member
I don't have pictures but at 11am the new owner told me he didn't need me till Monday
I worked in the shop about 4.5 hours, took a shower, and relaxed. Don't remember the last time I have a 3 day wknd
I worked in the shop about 4.5 hours, took a shower, and relaxed. Don't remember the last time I have a 3 day wkndA New Tool
You can't wrench all the time.
I picked up a 52-inch LCD for $250 and a PS3 for $95 so with the games I already own plus Netflix, I can have some entertaining down time while waiting for parts to arrive. I already have a ceiling mount for the TV and a 50-foot HDMI cable, so as soon as my helper shows up, we can hang this bad boy up.
You can't wrench all the time.
I picked up a 52-inch LCD for $250 and a PS3 for $95 so with the games I already own plus Netflix, I can have some entertaining down time while waiting for parts to arrive. I already have a ceiling mount for the TV and a 50-foot HDMI cable, so as soon as my helper shows up, we can hang this bad boy up.
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Due to my seasonal business, daughter drama and my own health, working in the garage has not been an option.
My winter-time storage place for my cars is also not available, so in order to get some work space, I need to build some more shelves.
The metal racks will be replaced by the new shelves. The metal shelves will be moved to another room and used to get several large items out of the middle of the floor, freeing up space for some furniture storage.
The metal shelves are plastic-coated Metro shelving commonly used in restaurant walk-in freezers. When they become corroded, they no longer pass the health code; I got these for free. A little corrosion doesn't hurt car parts.
Here are the new shelves under construction. It's the same basic design I've used throughout the shop, just using 2x2s instead of 2x4s since they won't be required to hold great weight along with a 18" depth versus a 24" depth.
My winter-time storage place for my cars is also not available, so in order to get some work space, I need to build some more shelves.
The metal racks will be replaced by the new shelves. The metal shelves will be moved to another room and used to get several large items out of the middle of the floor, freeing up space for some furniture storage.
The metal shelves are plastic-coated Metro shelving commonly used in restaurant walk-in freezers. When they become corroded, they no longer pass the health code; I got these for free. A little corrosion doesn't hurt car parts.
Here are the new shelves under construction. It's the same basic design I've used throughout the shop, just using 2x2s instead of 2x4s since they won't be required to hold great weight along with a 18" depth versus a 24" depth.
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I added some more shelving in the parts room. The wire Metro shelves have been relocated to the "office" room to get some of that stuff out of the middle of the room so I can move in there> Also, there are several projects underway and shelf space is needed to organize all the parts that are removed.
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Image Hosting Problems
No work on the garage or cars today, but I have already put in quite a few hours fixing an image hosting problem.
I had been using Imgur and posting images using the IMG tags.
But it seems I never bothered to read the Imgur TOS that says that I can't use Imgur to host content for another website. So they have blocked garagejournal.com and all my posts show no images.
Not to worry, I have just hosted all the images on my own server, but I must edit each post by hand to reflect the new URL.
At least it's a problem that, for me, is an easy one to fix. It's just time consuming. I'm about 30% done, so I'm taking a break for a few days.
UPDATE: I'm almost done, but I have a few errors to find and fix.
UPDATE2: ALL done. I still use Imgur to host the original images, but download the "large thumbnail" size to me own server to display on this page.
No work on the garage or cars today, but I have already put in quite a few hours fixing an image hosting problem.
I had been using Imgur and posting images using the IMG tags.
But it seems I never bothered to read the Imgur TOS that says that I can't use Imgur to host content for another website. So they have blocked garagejournal.com and all my posts show no images.
Not to worry, I have just hosted all the images on my own server, but I must edit each post by hand to reflect the new URL.
At least it's a problem that, for me, is an easy one to fix. It's just time consuming. I'm about 30% done, so I'm taking a break for a few days.
UPDATE: I'm almost done, but I have a few errors to find and fix.
UPDATE2: ALL done. I still use Imgur to host the original images, but download the "large thumbnail" size to me own server to display on this page.
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April, May and June were consumed with seasonal business work, so not much shop time. since then, my co-conspirator Matt and I have been working feverishly on two projects.
This past month, the local weather has been brutally hot and humid with "feels like" temperatures regularly exceeding 110 degrees. There's poor ventilation at the shop where it appears the the prevailing breeze blow into the two walls that have no openings and it's awkward and not very rewarding to knock a few holes in cinderblock walls. I'm slowly convincing my wife that when we borrow the money to replace the roof, we should borrow a little extra and install a commercial A/C system.
Until then, we're working on several projects albeit slowly. First is rust repairs to a VW Super Beetle. My co-conspirator is sharpening his metal fabrication and stitch-welding skills on this project. I'll need to work on mine when I can return to the Triumph TR3 project. Second is replacing the 454 BBC with a Weiand-blown SBC in the '39 convertible. Almost complete with the engine build, we have taken a detour with the front clip off the car to re-furbish the front suspension, a front clip from a '74 Camaro donor. The 700-R4 transmission has been re-built and upgraded for the engine; it was badly worn out. Matt's been helping me out with that, putting his Bug on hold, so my wife and I can take the 'vert on a Streetrodder Road Tour in September. Garage-wise, we've cleaned up and re-arranged some things to facilitate the engine build and to find missing parts for it, since it was disassembled 10 years ago and the project stalled. It was originally destined for the '36 Auburn, but that car will get the BBC when that project comes up in due time.
This is a picture from a mockuo we did to suss out the correct accessory brackets.
Halfway through the suspension refurb. We could have been done but the Boys of Pep only ordered ONE set of parts when we asked for two. Apparently, there are not many '74 Camaros on the road in need of suspension parts, so ours needed to come from their New York City warehouse. They coullda sent some pizza along with the parts . . .
And that full-sized refrigerator we moved in a few years ago has been nicely stocked with water and other refreshing beverages to help beat the heat.
This past month, the local weather has been brutally hot and humid with "feels like" temperatures regularly exceeding 110 degrees. There's poor ventilation at the shop where it appears the the prevailing breeze blow into the two walls that have no openings and it's awkward and not very rewarding to knock a few holes in cinderblock walls. I'm slowly convincing my wife that when we borrow the money to replace the roof, we should borrow a little extra and install a commercial A/C system.
Until then, we're working on several projects albeit slowly. First is rust repairs to a VW Super Beetle. My co-conspirator is sharpening his metal fabrication and stitch-welding skills on this project. I'll need to work on mine when I can return to the Triumph TR3 project. Second is replacing the 454 BBC with a Weiand-blown SBC in the '39 convertible. Almost complete with the engine build, we have taken a detour with the front clip off the car to re-furbish the front suspension, a front clip from a '74 Camaro donor. The 700-R4 transmission has been re-built and upgraded for the engine; it was badly worn out. Matt's been helping me out with that, putting his Bug on hold, so my wife and I can take the 'vert on a Streetrodder Road Tour in September. Garage-wise, we've cleaned up and re-arranged some things to facilitate the engine build and to find missing parts for it, since it was disassembled 10 years ago and the project stalled. It was originally destined for the '36 Auburn, but that car will get the BBC when that project comes up in due time.
This is a picture from a mockuo we did to suss out the correct accessory brackets.
Halfway through the suspension refurb. We could have been done but the Boys of Pep only ordered ONE set of parts when we asked for two. Apparently, there are not many '74 Camaros on the road in need of suspension parts, so ours needed to come from their New York City warehouse. They coullda sent some pizza along with the parts . . .
And that full-sized refrigerator we moved in a few years ago has been nicely stocked with water and other refreshing beverages to help beat the heat.
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Just a note: The Franzinator we built a while ago got modified by necking down the diameter of the inner turn-down tube and shortening it. Given the ungodly humidity we've had recently, it traps lots of water in the Franzinator and the tank. There is very little to make it to the traps at the end of the drops. I believe that the poor design of the existing supply pipes contributes to this and , were they designed properly, there would be no water to speak of at the tools.
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There's nothing like a project to let you know where things should really be located in the garage. Like electrical outlets, air drops, tool boards/boxes and so on.
The current project involves a re-built SBC with a Weiand blower. There have been lots of mockups and we are still running into issues during final assembly, but we are closing in on it.
The current project involves a re-built SBC with a Weiand blower. There have been lots of mockups and we are still running into issues during final assembly, but we are closing in on it.
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Due to family and business concerns, work at the shop has been neglected. The empty space keeps getting filled with family items for storage and the cars keep breaking. Typically, my seasonal business is closed for the winter and I can safely and securely store two cars there, but there is some off-season work to be done and the normally free space is the staging area for materials. 8(.
I have purchased a piece of equipment on the bucket list -- a transmission jack needed to replace the clutch slave and master cylinders on the S-10 shop truck. All that's left is a TIG welder, a full size English wheel and some additional metal shaping hand tools.
I have purchased a piece of equipment on the bucket list -- a transmission jack needed to replace the clutch slave and master cylinders on the S-10 shop truck. All that's left is a TIG welder, a full size English wheel and some additional metal shaping hand tools.
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It's been a slow winter for getting any work done on the cars. And with the continued accumulation of "treasure" (like a residential oven for powder coating), I needed a reorganization and clean-up. It's looking better and I can walk around now. Just one big piece (a Triumph TR3 frame) to relocate and I can get started on re-wiring the '39 convertible. (Pics to follow)
Bib Overalls
Well-known member
I'm in the midst of a post winter general shop cleanup myself. Seems like the place just got away from me. Kind of overwhelming. I've got a couple of storage projects going and it seems senseless to be putting stuff away when you know it will have to be moved again in a couple of weeks. So I procrastinate. Need to get on my Model A project but that is hard to do with all the junk piled around it. The only reason I am posting this is because misery likes company.
That's me in spades. Three thousand square feet and I can't easily move around. The family business has a self-storage space, but it's full of large bulky things that need to be sold, given away or thrown away. I suppose that will be up to me. We did have a garage sale that freed up some storage space at the shop, but my usual co-conspirator, Matt, is covering a midnight-to-8 shift because the employee that usually covers the shift is in the hospital.
Some updated images from the Red room.
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Once again no real progress to report, but I have been able to start the re-wiring project on my wife's 1939 Plymouth. As long as it's apart and has a new engine, it's getting an in-tank fuel pump and I'm finally getting around to fabricating a proper under-dash panel to replace the temporary one I put there almost 10 years ago.
Some good news, however. I have sold the family business and can devote myself fill-time to working on my cars. So that's a happy thing. The business, Lynnhaven Fishing Pier, has been in the family since 1956 but it's time to move on. Wish me luck!
Some good news, however. I have sold the family business and can devote myself fill-time to working on my cars. So that's a happy thing. The business, Lynnhaven Fishing Pier, has been in the family since 1956 but it's time to move on. Wish me luck!
I have made no entries for quite a while since I have been busy selling the family business, moving and storing stuff we are keeping, getting rid of stuff, taking car of things around the house and so on.
Th big problem is that all the things we are keeping had to go somewhere and they wound up at the shop, so there is not room to work until I sort through all that material including tools, electrical supplies and storage containers.
Once that is done, I'll have enough time to get back to work on the cars.
Th big problem is that all the things we are keeping had to go somewhere and they wound up at the shop, so there is not room to work until I sort through all that material including tools, electrical supplies and storage containers.
Once that is done, I'll have enough time to get back to work on the cars.
There has been no progress for the longest time, but I'm happy to report that I have sold the family business and have retired. Once i work off the Honey-Do list, I will be keeping regular hours and getting things done. I've also signed up for a machine tools course at the local community college this Fall so I can learn how to operate lathes and mills. That will come in handy, I'm sure.
Finally, some progress to report. After a long struggle with closing and selling the family business, getting retirement income organized, getting honey-do's done and not having repaired the broken exhaust fan at the shop so it was ungodly hot all summer, I've finally been able to return attention to the shop.
First, I have a windowless room in the middle of the shop that is the size of a one-car garage. I cut two 2'x4' holes in the block walls that I will frame in some fixed windows, just to open the room up a little.
Second, I am remodeling the "Craft Room" to be more flexible in it's use by my wife and daughters as well as more comfortable, having added a small air conditioner. I also had two unused doors closed off to make the wall space more usable.
Third, I repaired the threshold of my overhead door. It was broken in several places and allow water and debris to pass under it.
First, I have a windowless room in the middle of the shop that is the size of a one-car garage. I cut two 2'x4' holes in the block walls that I will frame in some fixed windows, just to open the room up a little.
Second, I am remodeling the "Craft Room" to be more flexible in it's use by my wife and daughters as well as more comfortable, having added a small air conditioner. I also had two unused doors closed off to make the wall space more usable.
Third, I repaired the threshold of my overhead door. It was broken in several places and allow water and debris to pass under it.
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wasfast
Well-known member
Do the window openings require a lintel?
New Tool
I purchased a Logan 400 lathe that came from an estate in a nearby town. I has a 9-inch swing with 18-inches between centers. While it uses the old-style lantern tool holder, it has a good assortment of bit holders, boring bar holders and a knurling tool and well as HSS blanks. An MT2 Jacobs chuck and an MT2 live center that fits the tailstock taper accompanied the lathe. Also included is the draw-in collet chuck attachment, with 20 collets, and is just missing the spindle cap, but it perfectly usable without it.
It certainly needs cleaning up, but the ways and bearings are in excellent shape for a machine built in 1949. The 70-yo rubber-coated lamp cord that wire up the motor has got to go. I have a modern on-off switch with an emergency shut-off tab and a nice reversing switch. I'll need to go through the selection of gears used for thread-cutting to see what I have and what I might need.
It was missing the cast iron cover for the headstock gears, but I was able to locate a replacement for the fiberglass cover the previous owner made. All in all, I'm very pleased with my new tool.
I purchased a Logan 400 lathe that came from an estate in a nearby town. I has a 9-inch swing with 18-inches between centers. While it uses the old-style lantern tool holder, it has a good assortment of bit holders, boring bar holders and a knurling tool and well as HSS blanks. An MT2 Jacobs chuck and an MT2 live center that fits the tailstock taper accompanied the lathe. Also included is the draw-in collet chuck attachment, with 20 collets, and is just missing the spindle cap, but it perfectly usable without it.
It certainly needs cleaning up, but the ways and bearings are in excellent shape for a machine built in 1949. The 70-yo rubber-coated lamp cord that wire up the motor has got to go. I have a modern on-off switch with an emergency shut-off tab and a nice reversing switch. I'll need to go through the selection of gears used for thread-cutting to see what I have and what I might need.
It was missing the cast iron cover for the headstock gears, but I was able to locate a replacement for the fiberglass cover the previous owner made. All in all, I'm very pleased with my new tool.
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Lathe Update
I've made a little progress on the new-to-me lathe.
I was able, after soaking the threads for several days in Kroil, to safely remove the 4-jaw chuck and was pleasantly surprised to find the #3AT collet adapter snugly in the headstock taper. That's good, because as a new part, it costs over $305. The only part of the collet set that is missing is a 1-1/2-inch x 8tpi nose cap (new at $89) that protects the external spindle threads and I was able to source a used part over the Internet for less than half that.
It might be nice to have a face plate and the associated dogs, but they are not inexpensive and I can wait until I have a task that actually needs them.
The 3/4-inch counter-shaft that sits between the electric motor and the lathe headstock has been severely abused over the years as it appears that nobody knew how to tighten setscrews. It's pretty gouged up and badly scored, but a new replacement from Logan is only $25.
The electric motor is a Dunlap (Sears, Roebuck and Co.), 1750 RPM, 1/3 HP, split-phase motor. I'l drop it off at the local electric motor shop to get it refreshed since the external wiring for the mains is in poor condition. Better to be safe.
The replacement headstock cover is the correct one, but I now lack the proper hinge pins and rubber bumpers for it, so I have ordered those.
I'll need to disassemble the headstock to clean it (all the bearings are fine) and will replace the 1/2-inch V-belt while it is apart. The one in use seems to have served its purpose well for 70 years, but it's time to retire it.
Once all that is fixed and re-assembled, I'll tackle the saddle, its attachments and the tailstock. They all need to be cleaned, polished and restored to accuracy. I do need new felt wipers on the saddle and confirmed today that the Logan parts book has an error and the felt wipers for my 9" lathe are available.
I will not be stripping and re-painting the lathe. Patina for these machines is a mark of honest work (and sometimes a little abuse and neglect). It does not need to be a museum piece to be capable of performing work for me.
Here's the finished lathe.
One question I had was what specialty lubricants should be used on the lathe. I found the answer here.
Although directed specifically to South Bend lathes (the major competitor to Logan in that market), the service bulletins for SB lathes can be found here.
Bulletin H-1 – “Keep Your Lathe Clean”
Bulletin H-2 – “Oiling the Lathe”
Bulletin H-3 – “The Installation and Leveling of the Lathe”
Bulletin H-4 – “Keep Your Lathe in Trim”.
I've made a little progress on the new-to-me lathe.
I was able, after soaking the threads for several days in Kroil, to safely remove the 4-jaw chuck and was pleasantly surprised to find the #3AT collet adapter snugly in the headstock taper. That's good, because as a new part, it costs over $305. The only part of the collet set that is missing is a 1-1/2-inch x 8tpi nose cap (new at $89) that protects the external spindle threads and I was able to source a used part over the Internet for less than half that.
It might be nice to have a face plate and the associated dogs, but they are not inexpensive and I can wait until I have a task that actually needs them.
The 3/4-inch counter-shaft that sits between the electric motor and the lathe headstock has been severely abused over the years as it appears that nobody knew how to tighten setscrews. It's pretty gouged up and badly scored, but a new replacement from Logan is only $25.
The electric motor is a Dunlap (Sears, Roebuck and Co.), 1750 RPM, 1/3 HP, split-phase motor. I'l drop it off at the local electric motor shop to get it refreshed since the external wiring for the mains is in poor condition. Better to be safe.
The replacement headstock cover is the correct one, but I now lack the proper hinge pins and rubber bumpers for it, so I have ordered those.
I'll need to disassemble the headstock to clean it (all the bearings are fine) and will replace the 1/2-inch V-belt while it is apart. The one in use seems to have served its purpose well for 70 years, but it's time to retire it.
Once all that is fixed and re-assembled, I'll tackle the saddle, its attachments and the tailstock. They all need to be cleaned, polished and restored to accuracy. I do need new felt wipers on the saddle and confirmed today that the Logan parts book has an error and the felt wipers for my 9" lathe are available.
I will not be stripping and re-painting the lathe. Patina for these machines is a mark of honest work (and sometimes a little abuse and neglect). It does not need to be a museum piece to be capable of performing work for me.
Here's the finished lathe.
One question I had was what specialty lubricants should be used on the lathe. I found the answer here.
Although directed specifically to South Bend lathes (the major competitor to Logan in that market), the service bulletins for SB lathes can be found here.
Bulletin H-1 – “Keep Your Lathe Clean”
Bulletin H-2 – “Oiling the Lathe”
Bulletin H-3 – “The Installation and Leveling of the Lathe”
Bulletin H-4 – “Keep Your Lathe in Trim”.
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There is a "kit" sold on eBay from a fellow (website at the end) who provides smaller quantities of the necessary oils as recommended for South Bend lathes. Not all of these may be appropriate for your make and model lathe; my Logan 400 has sealed bearings in the headstock, so no need for South Bend Lathe "A" type oil for me.
THESE ARE THE "RECOMMENDED OILS" in the South Bend Lathe publication: "How to Run a Lathe".
South Bend Lathe "A" type oil, which is Mobile Velocite #10 spindle lubricant. This will be used in the headstock spindle bearings. This oil is not needed in my Logan lathe which uses lubed-for-life sealed bearings;
South Bend Lathe "B" type oil, which is Mobil DTE 24 (ISO 32), Hydraulic Oil, Light,which will be used in your gearbox or, in the case of my Logan lathe, on any of the headstock gears themselves;
South Bend Lathe "C" type oil, which is Mobil DTE Heavy/Medium Circulating Oil (ISO 68), which will be used to lubricate "everything else". That would be screws, external change gears, tailstock, etc.;
South Bend Way Oil, which is Mobil Vactra #2 Way Oil, which will be used to lubricate the sliding way surfaces of the lathe;
Please download the South Bend Lathe Bulletin "Keep Your Lathe in Trim" at: http:\\bluechipmachineshop.com/bc_blog/?p=710.
SOURCE: http:\\bluechipmachineshop.com
THESE ARE THE "RECOMMENDED OILS" in the South Bend Lathe publication: "How to Run a Lathe".
South Bend Lathe "A" type oil, which is Mobile Velocite #10 spindle lubricant. This will be used in the headstock spindle bearings. This oil is not needed in my Logan lathe which uses lubed-for-life sealed bearings;
South Bend Lathe "B" type oil, which is Mobil DTE 24 (ISO 32), Hydraulic Oil, Light,which will be used in your gearbox or, in the case of my Logan lathe, on any of the headstock gears themselves;
South Bend Lathe "C" type oil, which is Mobil DTE Heavy/Medium Circulating Oil (ISO 68), which will be used to lubricate "everything else". That would be screws, external change gears, tailstock, etc.;
South Bend Way Oil, which is Mobil Vactra #2 Way Oil, which will be used to lubricate the sliding way surfaces of the lathe;
Please download the South Bend Lathe Bulletin "Keep Your Lathe in Trim" at: http:\\bluechipmachineshop.com/bc_blog/?p=710.
SOURCE: http:\\bluechipmachineshop.com
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Second Lathe
I purchased a second Logan 400 lathe because it came with attachments that the first one did not have, so now I have a 3- and 4-jaw chuck, a 3AT collet system, a Palmgren milling attachment and a full set of change gears. I cleaned and lubricated the new lathe, replaced the compound and cross slide nuts and installed a new motor.
The first lathe is currently for sale on eBay. The only attachments it is being sold with are an AXA QCTP, a QCTP tool holder, a center and a tailstock wrench.
I purchased a second Logan 400 lathe because it came with attachments that the first one did not have, so now I have a 3- and 4-jaw chuck, a 3AT collet system, a Palmgren milling attachment and a full set of change gears. I cleaned and lubricated the new lathe, replaced the compound and cross slide nuts and installed a new motor.
The first lathe is currently for sale on eBay. The only attachments it is being sold with are an AXA QCTP, a QCTP tool holder, a center and a tailstock wrench.
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Just saw your thread come up, so I thought I would catch up. Congratulations on the retirement 
The lathe looks awesome! I may have keep the AXA quick change though, but I understand you had all the other tooling for the old-style lantern tool holders, it sure did clean up nice, now we need to see something being made on it 
The lathe looks awesome! I may have keep the AXA quick change though, but I understand you had all the other tooling for the old-style lantern tool holders, it sure did clean up nice, now we need to see something being made on it Just saw your thread come up, so I thought I would catch up. Congratulations on the retirement
I did keep the second Logan 400 lathe I have along with its QCTP, a half-dozen tool holders and all the rest of the tooling I have. The motor is wired to turn the wrong way, so I need to fix that, install the lathe and level it.
I do need to finish fabricating the carriage lock for the remaining lathe, 1"x3/4"x3/8" with a 5/16"-18 hole. Don't even need the lathe for that. I made sure that the one I sold had a working carriage lock.
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My Columbia No. 504 vise was binding. Some damn previous owner had used the back of it for an anvil. Some grinding and filing fixed that. While I had it apart, I was tempted to clean it up and paint it, but it's a working tool and not a showpiece, so just some lubrication and re-assembly.
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I often find myself needing to drill non-precise holes of 1/4" diameter or smaller in small pieces or drill several 1/8" pilot holes.
Rather than use the Atlas No.64 drill press, I snagged this little Delta drill press off of Facebook Marketplace being sold by a nice young Marine for $20.
It looked a little neglected and one of the first things I noticed was that the clamp handle for the table was on the left side, not very convenient for right-handed me.
I disassembled the base, column and table and could see that there was an odd threaded pin, presumably to register the table square to the quill. It was bent rendering it useless. There was also a useless protractor scale attached to it (it is very small and not adjustable, so likely not very accurate), so when I inverted the locking mechanism, it was now even more useless.
I cleaned the rust from the base and table and chucked the column in the lathe to remove the rust.
Forty minutes of work and it looks serviceable.
Rather than use the Atlas No.64 drill press, I snagged this little Delta drill press off of Facebook Marketplace being sold by a nice young Marine for $20.
It looked a little neglected and one of the first things I noticed was that the clamp handle for the table was on the left side, not very convenient for right-handed me.
I disassembled the base, column and table and could see that there was an odd threaded pin, presumably to register the table square to the quill. It was bent rendering it useless. There was also a useless protractor scale attached to it (it is very small and not adjustable, so likely not very accurate), so when I inverted the locking mechanism, it was now even more useless.
I cleaned the rust from the base and table and chucked the column in the lathe to remove the rust.
Forty minutes of work and it looks serviceable.
