Above 1200 Sq/FT Re-Purposed Machine Shop

[hoyt]

Bridgeport Mill

While disassembling the mil, I found some damage in the casting where a bearing is seated for the pinion gear and the gear itself is almost worn away. It's at a machine shop being repaired, so I've paused the teardown and repair for now (plus it's 105+ degrees in the workshop).





UPDATE, 9-11-2020: It's been almost two months and I had not heard from the machine shop, so I stopped by last Wednesday. Seems they sent the piece out to be welded and then forgot about it. SMH

UPDATE, 9-24-2020: Got a call today and the part is repaired! Just $75 and I'll pick it up tomorrow.

 

[hoyt]

Atlas No. 64 Drill Press Clockspring

The clockspring for my Atlas No.64 drill press (the spring in the quill) is broken and I need a replacement. So far, I've been unsuccessful in locating one the correct size and would appreciate a lead on one that will fit.

 

[Craig Balzer]

The guy is selling the cover for te spring housing -- he may have a lead to the spring itself:

https://www.ebay.com/i/274326711889...89&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2386202&algv=DefaultOrganic

A Google search turned up this spring. Correct one?
https://whiteheadindustrial.com/spr...gGrVPD3niDxfReTeSefUiCWeruztL2LIaAnh8EALw_wcB
If not maybe Whitehead has what you're looking for

 

[hoyt]

A Google search turned up this spring. Correct one?
https://whiteheadindustrial.com/spr...gGrVPD3niDxfReTeSefUiCWeruztL2LIaAnh8EALw_wcB
If not maybe Whitehead has what you're looking for

I've tried that particular spring. It won't work, but thanks.

 

[hoyt]

Atlas No.64 Drill Press clock Spring

Here's the spring that worked for me. It comes two to a package.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MX6P62J/

 

[hoyt]

Final Disassembly of Bridgeport J2 Head

My last hurdle on the Bridgeport re-build was to remove the corroded-in-place quill nose. A 2-week soaking in a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF and it came free. The spindle bearings are "crunchy" and full of swarf and don't appear to have ever been re-greased. I also had a problem with the reverse clutch rod and that steel ball being corroded in place and finally took the grinder to it to free it up, so I need to replace those parts. The quill pinion gear was pretty damaged (probably since whoever worked on it previously failed to replace the snap ring).

Long story short, I just placed a $625 order for the necessary parts ($350 of that is for the spindle bearings), so that brings my total investment up to $2,150. I still need to disassemble the table and saddle and repair the Bijur oiler. I don't anticipate anything more than cleaning and paint for the base.

I'll add some pictures next week.

 

[hoyt]

The Pinion Bushing and Spacer were Missing! Obviously a previous repair gone wrong. As a result, the Quill Pinion was knackered, so I replaced that as well.



With the new parts on the shaft, they are .063" proud for the circlip to fit in its groove, so it's off to the lathe to face off that amount.

Progress has been slow since my wife had foot surgery and she needs 24/7 care since the beginning of November. She is getting better and is now somewhat ambulatory.


In the meantime, I did score a prize! I was given a Triumph TR4 engine and transmission and the transmission has an overdrive unit.

 

[hoyt]

Some More Progress on the Bridgeport

As I mentioned last month, the Pinion Bushing and Spacer were missing and the replacement parts needed some trimming (.062") in order to fit the circlip that holds them in place.

Success achieved!

On the other end of the shaft, the Pinion Shaft Hub sleeve had been damaged in two ways.

The outer diameter that fits into the handle had been mangled and did not fit either the new handle or the old handle. Putting it in the lathe and removing what looked like weld spatter fixed that. Both handles now fit nicely.

At some point, the Pinion Shaft Hub Screw had been lost and a common bolt and washer had been substituted. The washer was too big and belled when tightened down and raised a ridge inside the hub, keeping the screw from fitting inside the hub.

Again, the lathe was used to bore the inside of the hub so the screw would fit.

The end result was a properly repaired shaft, gear and hub. Doing my own repairs to the damaged parts saved the $60 cost of the replacement parts, so I'm very happy.





I had been having trouble with the re-build of the spindle. The dog-point Collet Alignment Screw that also acts as an anti-rotation device for the collet and the associated Special Socket Setscrew had been broken off and corroded into the spindle. In cleaning the threads, I broke a tap and not wanting to ruin and replace the $741 spindle, I paid L&M Machine to remove the tap and then I chased the threads with a carbide tap and was able to install the screw and setscrew. Many Bridgeport mills are used every day with a broken or missing alignment screw, but as long as I was working on this, I wanted it fixed "right".

I still need to disassemble and clean a few of the remaining sub-assemblies, then I can paint the head and re-assemble it before I move on to the table, saddle and knee.

 

[hoyt]

More Bridgeport Repairs

More manhandling discovered. While disassembling the control lever assemblies, I discovered two that had bent shafts. One controls the back gear (which was damaged) and the other the spindle feed (Which was missing parts).


Easy enough fix as long as the money doesn't dry up.

I was able to re-assemble the spindle with the new bearings and am cleaning everything in preparation of painting it. I also acquired a 3-phase breaker (the machine requires 4.4A at 220V, 3-phase), but I need to decide where I'll place the mill before I run the circuit.

 

[hoyt]

More Bridgeport Repairs

Finishing up the speed control. The shaft was bent, so that had to be replaced. Each little control/sub-assembly will get done first. Then I'll clean and paint the hard casing and finally assemble the head sans the motor. What I have found amusing is that I have found several internal problems with the mill and they tried to fix them in-house BY REPLACING THE MOTOR, which likely was not damaged and, of course, didn't fix the problem.


Notice the bent shaft.



All cleaned and ready to re-attach to the machine when it's time.

 

[ODIS]

Great work Sir!

 

[hoyt]

More Bridgeport progress


Making some progress. Trying to stay organized. I've misplaced a spring, so I'll use a magnet and look again tomorrow.

 

[hoyt]

Sometimes, I have visitors in the shop.

 

[hoyt]

Spent some time today restoring images to the earlier posts in this thread that GJ lost when the upgraded the bulletin board software. it is easier to fix after the last update. I still have quite a few images left to go.

UPDATE: February 23rd. I finally finished uploading the 200+ images that I remotely hosted and could no longer be displayed in the new BBS software. It was an even bigger hassle since I was limited to only a few edits every 24 hours. I need to take a final swing through my journal pages to fix any errors . . . maybe next week.

 

[hoyt]

I purchased a Logan 200 lathe locally that is in excellent shape, owned by a guitar maker. Even with all the local industry, this area is a desert for small lathes. It lacks change gears, but the gears from my Logan 400 fit it. I'll consider fitting it with an electronic lead screw at some point and could then cut any pitch, Imperial or Metric as well as set any appropriate carriage speed. I'll keep the Logan 400 set up for collet use (always handy to have two lathes) and I have a DRO for the 200 all ready to install.

Health issues for my wife and myself have kept me from the workshop for quite some time, but we are both on the mend and it will be good to be back. Finishing the re-assembly of the Bridgeport mill is the top priority to 1) get it out of the way of the overhead door so I can get the cars inside and work on them, and 2) make some chips.

 

[red]

Glad you & your wife are feeling better, getting old isn't what I expected.
Thanks for the update, enjoy watching your repairs restoring the lathe.

 

[hoyt]

Today's WTF Moment

I have many, many post to fix where they deleted my images, and I was just notified that I have reached the maximum number of post edits for the day. Why would they even do that?

 

[Chrisb62]

They had a member edit (delete) the words off every post and then told Ryan to eat shoot ,so now they limit how many edits so you don't erase every post and leave. Left a lot of holes in the threads.....

If I am wrong, a admin may be able to clarify better......

 

[hoyt]

They had a member edit (delete) the words off every post and then told Ryan to eat shoot ,so now they limit how many edits so you don't erase every post and leave. Left a lot of holes in the threads.....

If I am wrong, a admin may be able to clarify better......

That seems bogus. I should not be able to edit or delete posts that are not mine so that makes no sense unless the guy was interacting with most of the members and supplying lots of unique info. Anyway, all my posts are mine and I should be able to delete them all if I wanted and nobody else should be restricted or punished because of what I do. Ryan has contacted me, so I'll see how this resolves. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Chrisb62]

That seems bogus. I should not be able to edit or delete posts that are not mine so that makes no sense unless the guy was interacting with most of the members and supplying lots of unique info. Anyway, all my posts are mine and I should be able to delete them all if I wanted and nobody else should be restricted or punished because of what I do. Ryan has contacted me, so I'll see how this resolves. Thanks for the reply.

To clarify.... he was deleting his own posts and only his posts.

 

[hoyt]

I don't see the issue then.

 

[dscheidt]

Looks good, Hoyt.

 

[hoyt]

 

[hoyt]

Looks like I might be needing a new shop. Maybe I can get one with some climate control!! It would be nice for these old bones to work in comfort year-round.

 

[hoyt]

I'm getting the 10" Logan 200 lathe set up. It's in pretty decent cosmetic shape. The PO used a graphite-impregnated grease on the gears, so that's pretty messy, but it's OK. I use bicycle chain lube on my Logan 400.

It's not up against the wall since I'm installing a DRO.



Here's my template for the glass scale for the cross slide. The scale will ride above and parallel to the lead screw and I'll fabricate an extended cover for it.



There is some minor damage to the spindle threads; no idea how that happened. That should repair easily with a file. The spindle threads are the same as on my 9" Logan 400, so all chucks and faceplates will interchange between the two lathes.


It's missing a carriage lock. The one I purchased from eBay has arrived and I'll get it installed.



As has a dual sheave pulley for the motor to restore the full 12 speeds. The PO had used only a single sheave pulley. I ordered a double-sheave pulley from the Logan Lathe company. That motor is new-ish.



It's a 1945 model with change gears, no quick-change box. No change gears came with the lathe other than what are installed, but it uses the same gears as my Logan 400, so I'm good for now. Future plans involve an electronic lead screw for this machine, so change gears will not only be unnecessary, but Imperial/metric threading will then be available as well and a wide range of feed speeds.

The lathe came with some tooling including a faceplate and AXA QCTP (same as my 400) and two tool holders as well as a new-ish SHARS 3-jaw chuck that is sized better for my 9" model 400; I can put the larger Buck 3-jaw on the Logan 200. I already have a 4-jaw chuck and a 3AT collet system as well as a Palmgren milling attachment that all interchange (I may need a longer drawbar for the 200). I just acquired a follow rest and steady rest for the 400; they are not interchangeable, but are difficult to find. Follow and steady rests for the 200 are more plentiful and I'll be on the lookout.


This is the tailstock wrench provided by the PO. It's actually a Snap-On hydraulic fitting wrench but, of course, it works just fine -- it's a wrench after all.

I'll install the DROs while it's away from the wall, then level the lathe, check the tailstock alignment and lubricate the machine, then make some chips.

I need to get back on the restoration of the Bridgeport mill and . . . I'll be in the market for a new shop location since I've sold this one!

 

[hoyt]

Well, the deal seems to be set and I'll need to find a new workshop and move all my stuff. Lots of stuff. Suggestions welcome on how best to do that.

 

[hoyt]

The shop sale fell through . . . which is OK because I could not find another location to relocate that had enough space and was within a 30 minute drive from my house. Any longer and I'd visit less often.

 

[hoyt]

Some work on the new-to-me Logan 200 lathe. This had been my project fir the past few days. It's a DRO (digital read out) that is attached to the cross slide of my lathe. It accurately measures the travel with technology not even thought of in 1950 when the lathe was originally built. I had to fabricate, fit and adjust the brackets to mount that ruler-looking thing (the scale) and the black box (the optical reader. I now need to fabricate a cover for it.

Then it's on to do the same thing to mount one at 90 degrees to measure the travel of the carriage left and right.

 

[hoyt]

 

[hoyt]

Made a knob for the toolpost on the 10" lathe.

 

[hoyt]

New lathe in the shop. A Wards Powr-Kraft, made by Logan. It has some nice accessories, a Quick Change Gearbox, a taper attachment, center and follow rests, a Jacobs chuck, a Logan Speed chuck (with collets), a micrometer stop and some nice toolholders. The QCGB was a modification and it has a full set of change gears and the original lead screw. As well, it was originally a benchtop model that has had a chip tray and legs added. The flat belt is worn, so I'm replacing that with a 6-rib automotive belt. The back gears have several broken teeth, so those are being replaced as well. It also features a shop-made larger cross slide dial. Originally sold on the Yorktown, VA Montgomery Wards store, I purchased it from the second owner in Yorktown, VA.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Very nice lathe! I've got one that's nearly identical, but not as well equipped as yours. I'm especially jealous of that quick change gearbox, that and the fact that yours is operational ha! My great-grandfather purchased mine new. I drew a picture of it a couple of years ago too. I haven't seen a lot of other Montgomery Wards branded machines.

 

[hoyt]

Very nice lathe! I've got one that's nearly identical, but not as well equipped as yours. I'm especially jealous of that quick change gearbox, that and the fact that yours is operational ha! My great-grandfather purchased mine new. I drew a picture of it a couple of years ago too. I haven't seen a lot of other Montgomery Wards branded machines.

Nice artwork!
The Logan 200 and Logan 400 I have lack the QCGB, but I have complete change gear sets and, while time-consuming to change them, it's not something I need to do daily. Do you plan to get the machine up and running?

 

[MadeByMiller]

Nice artwork!
The Logan 200 and Logan 400 I have lack the QCGB, but I have complete change gear sets and, while time-consuming to change them, it's not something I need to do daily. Do you plan to get the machine up and running?

Thank you!

Yes, I definitely do plan on cleaning it up and getting it running some day. I have the motor mount/pulley setup like you show as well, but would like to build a stand to mount everything to with a chip pan. The right thing to do would be a complete teardown and clean up/re-bush, so it's mostly a matter of setting aside the time to do it.

 

[hoyt]

Thank you!

Yes, I definitely do plan on cleaning it up and getting it running some day. I have the motor mount/pulley setup like you show as well, but would like to build a stand to mount everything to with a chip pan. The right thing to do would be a complete teardown and clean up/re-bush, so it's mostly a matter of setting aside the time to do it.

The chip pans and cast iron legs turn up on eBay, expect to pay $2-400. There's a special bracket used to mount a benchtop drive to a chip pan and cast iron leg combo; difficult to find an OEM bracket, but easy to fabricate. Let me know if you need dimensions and pictures.

 

[MadeByMiller]

The chip pans and cast iron legs turn up on eBay, expect to pay $2-400. There's a special bracket used to mount a benchtop drive to a chip pan and cast iron leg combo; difficult to find an OEM bracket, but easy to fabricate. Let me know if you need dimensions and pictures.

Thank you for the heads up! Of course I love the styling of the old cast iron legs, but with my small shop I really have to maximize the footprint of my equipment, so I'll likely be designing and fabricating a custom stand.

 

[hoyt]

An interesting tip from a century ago. I wonder what the "resin" is? Turpentine has been suggested, but that would not need heat to dissolve, would it? My guess is a natural resin that is solid at room temperature, but what?

 

[hoyt]

This is a Logan Speed Chuck. These collet chucks use a Warner & Swasey #1 push-type collet. Typically used with a bar feeder for production work on a turret lathe, It is useful to me because it can accommodate up to 3/4" diameter stock and does not require a drawabar closer like the 5C and 3AT collets do.

 

[hoyt]

Two logan 10" lathes. The one on the foreground is a Montgomery Wards PowerKraft 64TLC-2130, unique in that it has a taper attachment and a QCGB added to it and it is a benchtop model converted to use cast-iron legs. The legs are a special (taller) height that standard and there is a special mounting bracket to mount the bench-only motor assembly. The lathe was made in September 1944 for the Newport News, VA store. I purchased it from a fellow in Yorktown, VA who used it to make parts for his dirt bike. I'm repairing the back gears, cleaning it up and changing it to a serpentine drive belt with plans to sell it since I also have a 9" Logan 400, made in April, 1950 for Kruman Equipment Co in Pittsburgh, PA, shown following.

The lathe in the background, a Logan model 200) was also made in July 1945 for Joseph Beal & Co. of Boston. It has the "peg leg" motor assembly and other than a damaged back gear shifter rod latch, was in pretty good shape. I purchased it from a fellow in Norfolk, VA who makes custom guitars and upgraded to a larger Grizzly lathe.

 

[hoyt]

I'm almost finished with my Logan 200. I've transferred the QCGB/front apron/lead screw over from my PowerKraft and the leadscrew is working OK on both machines. Note that I had to re-locate the power switch because the QCGB is in the way of the old location; I just fabbed a bracket and mounted it in its "original" position. I also replaced the missing carriage lock.

I was having an issue of stiffness on the crossslide and it turns out it was a bent crossslide screw. I've replaced that and cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted the saddle and crossslide and it's now operating as smooth as butter. I've aligned the tailstock and cleaned and lubricated the lathe.

All that is left is to re-attach the DRO to the 200.

I've used that speed collet a few times and really like it more that the 3AT collets I use on the Logan 400 (I could use them on the 200, but I'd need the longer drawbar).

The Wards PowerKraft is awaiting a replacement headstock bearing from Logan Actuator and that lathe will be soon back in operation.