Rebuilding a monarch 10ee lathe

[Grant Gunderson]

The RH (forward) spindle clutch gear assembly felt pretty good, but after seeing how bad the rear was, I figured I better have it apart and look at it.

Note, there is a single dot factory witness mark on the back of the gear shaft as well as on the top side of the lock ring. There is also a witness line scribed across both on the ends.

My plywood trick wouldn't work for this gear assembly as the end off the gear is larger in diameter than the mount collar. So I used the same 3-⅞" hole saw and notched some scrap ⅛" thick aluminum angle. It's not pretty but it worked.

This fit into the ring that cut into the mounting ring, that stands proud of the press fit for it. This ring is for the oil passages.

I used the same large drift to press it out in the arbor press.

L to R gear, mounting ring, lock ring



While this assembly felt better than the previous one, it still had some galling on the gear shaft.

The mounting ring side was in way better shape, but note the grove worn in it.

Probably best to see if I can find a replacement for this one as well.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Ok time to tear into the Gear Box. It's a monarch casting EE-????


When I pulled it from the lathe, I quite literally found a rats nest above it.

And yes that is a dead rodent o the top left of the gear box back cover.

End gear side of the gear box

Bed side.

Ok, lets open up Pandora's box. The rear cover is held in place by 8 screws. A #3 driver fits them perfectly.

7 of the screws are the same size, but this one was shorter.


Here you cam see the bronze rack and pinion (Tumbler Shifter Rack) that moves the Tumbler Shifter fork along the Tumbler Lock plate.

The Tumbler Lock plate has "CW" on it. Each of those deep notches in the lock plate corresponds to a different cone gear.

When the front dial is turned to the gear set all the way to the left, the Tumblr also aligns with the notch on the Left as viewed from the front.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

When the front dial is rotated all the way to the right, the Tumbler then aligns with the notch on the far right as viewed from the front.

When the locking lever on the front dial is all the way to the left,

The Tumbler lock plate is fully retracted and the tumbler is able to be shifted. ( The Tumbler Lock plate is the lighter color bracket that surrounds the Tumbler rack and is attached to the shaft and is held open by the spring on the shaft).

When the locking lever is moved all the way to the Right,

The Tumbler locking plate is pushed forward (in towards the machine) and locks the tumbler in place. You can see how the entire Tumbler locking plate has moved forward here.

When the Feeds and Speeds knob is rotated to the Left,

The Tumbler shaft clutch gear is also moved to the left as viewed from the front of the machine.

When the Feeds and Speeds knob is rotated to the Right,

The Tumbler shaft clutch gear is also moved to the Right as viewed from the front of the machine.

Thats all that you can see as far as functionality at this stage. I'm now going to start to tear into the gear box. After lots of searching via google and PM, I've seen that a handful of people have had the gear box apart, but I didnt find a single how to, let alone step by step of how to proceed, so I am basically going to be doing this blind. So any ideas that pop up, please share! I'm going to start with taking the font off of the gear box, to hopefully get a better view of what's inside. Wish me luck. I'm gonna need it!

 

[Grant Gunderson]

My son decided he wanted to help me in the garage tonight. So I showed him how the table controls worked on the Bridgeport. He loved turning the handles! Since I already had a large hole saw in the spindle from taking apart the clutch gears, I put some safety googles on him and we made some "wheels" with it. After Mom forced him to go to bed, I got back to work on the lathe.

Time to get the front of the gear box apart.

The index shifter knob is held in place by a tapper pin.

I like to use one of my Starrett starter punches on these to get them moving before I switch to a normal pin punch or the C-clamp press I made for them. Luckily this pin had a much lighter fit than most and came out with the first tap

Since all of these knobs look identical, I etched the back of it with a carbide scribe.

"IS" for Index Shifter.

Next to come off is the Tumbler Lock Lever. It's retained by a dog point set screw and a a Woodruff key.

That then gets tapped out.

The Index Pointer is held in place by 4 screws.

With the screws out, I sued a Spudger tool to gently pry it forward.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

It is EE-1175. Btw, the Monarch manual that came with my lathe has two sets of parts index's, both appear to be photo copies of an original manual, but it is not correct for this gear box, and the manual is for the older round dial with the T handle.

Here is the index shifter knob assembly all laid out.

In order to remove the Clutch Shifter Knob, I rotated the Gear box onto its side, and set the knob to "C" to have better access to its tapper pin.

With the tapper pin out, the knob slide right off.

I etched "ABC" into the back of the Clutch shifter knob to keep track of it

With the Gear Box still on it's side, I removed the Feed Shifter Knob. First I used a #6 hollow ground screw driver (I like PB Swiss for these) to remove the center retaining screw without damaging it.

There is a spring behind the screw.

The knob then slides right off.

The knob has a key in it.

The notched end is press fit into the knob, and is retained by a retained by a pin thats been ground down flush. I'm leaving it together and will clean it in the ultrasonic.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

With all of the knobs off of the front dial, I took a dental pick around the edges to try to free as much crud as possible.

I then sprayed some WD-40 around the edges to hopefully clean out any residue / swarf that might being gluing it in place.

4 Screws retain the dial in place. I used a #5 hollow ground screw driver to remove them.

With all of the screws out, I inserted a small pic into the screw holes and wedged it between the base of the dial and the lower section. I did this with all 4 screws to slowly and gently wedge it forward and off.


I highlighted the EE number on the back with a sharpie. It's EE-2642

Behind the dial is two gears a large and small one above it. I noticed the larger gear has a "G" stamped in it. I also noticed there was a (what I assume to be) factory witness mark on each as indicated by the arrows in the photo.

I used some non-marking pliers to rotate the index selector shaft, so that the witness marks align. I used a red sharpie to make them more visible. I dont know if these need to be in line for disassembly, but figuring the factory had its reasons for them, I am going to make sure they are aligned before I proceed.

The large gear pulls right off. It is what the index pointer bolts to with the 4 screw holes.

The small gear pull off next. They key stayed in it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The main backing plate for the Round Dial Index is retained by 4 SHCS.

With the screws out, I traced around the edges of the backing plate with a pick to try to free it from the paint. Here is when I noticed it looks like someone ran a bead of silicone around it. Interesting.

I bought this razor blade utility knife / Scraper combo at the local hardware store the other day. Turns out it was perfect to cut the silicone seal.

The backing plate then pulled right off. Pretty sure the factory didnt use silicone, so its missing its original gasket. Seems like someone may have been in there before. So far all of the parts look factory to me.



I found an envelope with the lathes documentation from Royal Machine Tools, Inc in Portland OR, with some correspondence about adding metric change gears. So I'm guessing someone had the gear box open to see about doing it. Looks to me tho, that the documentation is for a Square dial. Now, if its possible to add them to this Round Dial, I would be very interested!

Back to the topic at hand. Here is the backside of the Round Dial Index back plate. Note the Ground bevel washer above, and the two studs that keep the Cam to the top half.

The beveled side of the ground washer face the back plate.

Here is the back plate parts all laid out.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The cam is retained to its shaft via a set screw. I'll wait to take it apart when it I clean and re-assymble.

For future reference when assembling here is how the cam looks like placed back on the index selector shaft, with the ground washer placed on the shaft above it. When you operate the Tumbler lock lever, the cam then drives the Tumbler plunger shaft at the top of the photo in / low thus activating the Tumbler locking mechanism.

With the Cam and washer back out, I then placed a witness mark between the gears on the index selector gear shaft and the Tumbler plunger shaft above it.

The index selector shaft with its gear attached to it, then pulls straight out.

The gear on the Index Shifter shaft is retained in place by a pin.

Here is what the round dial back plate looks like with the cam in place, and the index shifter in place.

Here is how the gear box looks without the index selector shaft in it.

When the clutch shifter knob (I have a tapper pin in it) is rotated to the far left (A setting) you can see that the it rotates a gear moving the clutch shifter rack thats behind it. This in turn moves the 36T clutch gear (red arrow) to the far Right, engaging the 24-T Clutch gear.

When the clutch shifter knob (I have a tapper pin in it) is rotated to the far Right (C setting) you can see that the it rotates a gear moving the clutch shifter rack thats behind it. This in turn moves the 36T clutch gear (red arrow) to the far Left, engaging the 48-T Clutch gear.

In the "B" setting neither the 48-T or the 24T clutch gears are engaged.


When the Feed Shifter is rotated all the way to the right, it uses the worm gear on the Screw Shaft clutch to move it to the right disengaging it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

When the Feed Shifter is rotated to the Left, it uses the worm gear on the Screw shaft clutch, to engage it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Next up, is removal of the Feed Rod plate from the Gear Box

It has two dog point set screws that might be hidden behind paint.

The first one is in the 7 O'clock position if looking at it from the end of the bed. Its on the bottom front. Its a long dog point.

The second is in the rear side of the gear box, and is bought in the 2 O'clock position.

I then cleaned all of the **** out of the SHCS, so I could get my hex socket into them and not risk rounding one.

It is held in place by 6 SHCS, the top 4 are all the same length, the bottom front is extra long and the bottom back is short.


The end of the Feed Rod Clutch, has a brass plunger with a spring behind it. Dont loose them!

The Feed Rod plate then, pulls right off the side of the Gear Box.

Here is the inside view of Feed Rod Plate.

A tiny dog point set screw, locks the gear on to the back of the Feed Rod Clutch.

Some gentle prying from behind got the gear off of the shaft.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I then used a tiny Starrett starter punch to tap the Woodruff key out.

It's quite small.

I could then press the Feed Rod Clutch shaft out of the bearing assembly. There is a ground washer on the outside of the plate.

I then used a drift in my arbor press to push the bearing stack out.

It uses two New Departure C 8503 Bearings.

There is a spacer ring between the bearings that the long dog point setscrews hold in place.

I then removed the oil seal from the upper shaft bore using a blind bearing puller.

It is a Victor 60318 Evidently a Federal-Mogul Encased Seal 470045 50045S 60318 H296 00044 5330001790861 is a cross reference for it

Here is the whole assembly laid out.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Up next is removal of the Tumbler Assembly.

As viewed from the back side of the gear box.

The Tumbler lock shaft is retained in the back by this bracket with two SHCS.


The Tumbler Rack Pinon is held in place by a small tapper pin. It was a surprisingly light fit to tap it out. That pin is now somewhere on the other side of the shop! I'll be ordering a full selection of Taper pins from McMaster.

A brass pin punch aided in tapping it off of the shaft.

I could then pull the Tumbler Lock shaft from the front of the lathe.

The Tumbler Lock Spring stayed in place on the back.

It was under light tension, so easy to remove by hand.

Here is the Tumbler Lock Shaft assembly laid out. Note, the shaft is comprised of two sections pined together with a taper pin in the middle. Then there is a collar threaded on in the middle section, this adjust the tension on the spring.

Next is removal of the Tumbler Lock Plate (Front) Upper. The factory parts list labels these as Front / Rear, I'm going to call them upper and lower as that makes more sense to me. Thats the lighter colored plate. It is under spring tension.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Looking at the End-Gear side of the Gear box, you can see the spring in the rear bore. I chose to leave the spring attached at this point as it would be very difficult to remove, but its good to know its there.

You lift up on the Front side of the plate, and it tilts up and out to remove. In hind site, I should have slid the tumbler all the way to the far Right (as viewed from front of the lathe) to have slightly lower spring tension, but it really doesn't matter.

Here is the backside of the Tumbler Lock Plate (Front) Upper, Note the factory arrow.

That corresponds with the Tumbler being in this position. I tried reinstalling the plate with the tumbler on the Left and the Right most positions. Turns out, its way easier in this location. Thus why I think the plate has that arrow. Would have been nice, tho if they had put it on the top side.

The Tumbler Lock Plate (rear) Lower is held in place by 4 screws and two tapper pins. Look like someone was in here before.

I used a #4 hollow ground flathead to remove all 4 screws. I then put my fingers from both hands behind the plate, and lifted and wiggled it at the same time to try to get the taper pins loose.

Luckily the Tapper pin on the RH side (as viewed from the back) came out quite easily. The Left side was the opposite case.

I eventually managed to wiggle and lift it enough with my fingers to get it loose enough to fit a very small trim pry bar behind it to lift the pate off.

The top side of the Tumbler Lock Plate (rear) Lower has "CW" on it.

The bottom side.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

That remaining tapper pin is in there good. I'm going to do the heat / penetrating cycle on it a few times to see if that helps get it loose.

Moving on this, is what we are left with. Note the spring thats visible to the left of the Bronze Tumbler Shifter Fork.


I was able to easily unhook the rear of it using my Knipex Needle nose pliers.

For the following its, best to have the Tumbler in this area. Its between the two stacks of cone gears, so you have more clearance.

Looking under the shifter fork, you can see where the spring is attached on the other end. Above it, is the Tumbler Gear Stud. It has red pain on the end of it, with a tiny cotter pin retaining it on that side.

I was able to remove it with a very long Snapon pick.

Looking at the other side of the shifter fork, you can see another cotter pin in the same stud, but this time it actually has properly folded over ends.

I grabbed it with my long pick, and was able to pull the whole gear stud out easily.

The Tumbler Shifter rack is held in place by a steel bar thats fitted into a groove in it, by two SHCS.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

With the two screws out, the entire Shifter Rack, its steel retaining bracket, as well as the Shifter Yoke thats bolted to the rack, tilt up and out to remove.

The Tumbler Gear is now easily removed.

The End Gear side of it has the protrusion.

I labeled the Bed side of it with "Bed". It has a New Departure 3201 Bearing in it, thats fits loosely.

The Tumbler Spring is now easily removed.

Here is what we are left with.

And here it is all laid out.

 

[DocsMachine]

That thing is definitely more complex than my big Springfield. Mine was a pretty straightforward rebuild compared to this.

Makes me wonder if this thread- the pics and details- can't be properly archived somewhere. Here and PM are both pretty decent, I suppose, I just wonder if there isn't something that might make it a little more searchable, or something.

Especially in case I ever get myself a round-dial.

Doc.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Next up for removal is the Lead Screw Shaft.

As viewed from the front of the Gear Box

As viewed from the back of the gear box, you can see the lock ring with its set screw that holds the Screw Shaft Gear in place. I scribed a line at the base of the lock ring to help aid in positioning it when I resemble. Also, there is a small factory witness mark that indicated the orientation of that lock ring as well.

A long Hex socket would be ideal for this, but its one size smaller than the smallest Long one I have in my Snapon set. So a very low-profile Nepros ratchet comes in handy here.

Wit hate dog point set screw out, we turn out attention to the End Gear Side of the Gear Box. The Lead Screw Shaft is held in place by a #3 Bearing retaining lock nut.

A small starter punch works perfect to bend the locking tab back.

The nut is only on finger tight.

Then use a brass drift to tap the shaft out.

I can then pull it out from the Bed side of the Gear Box.

The gears will fall off of the shaft into the Gear box.

All laid out as viewed from front of Gear Box. L to R, Lock Nut, Lock Nut Washer, Oil Catch Plate, Oil Slinger, New Departure "PN" 20205 Bearing, Lead Screw Shaft, Screw Shaft Retaining Ring with set screw, Screw Shaft Spacer, Screw Shaft Gear, Screw Shaft Clutch, New Departure 20303 Bearing.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The Screw Shaft clutch faces are in pretty good shape.

The Screw Gear has 3 oil weep holes in it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Next, is the Clutch Shifter removal.

I scribed the position of the Clutch Shifter gear in relation to where it was on the Clutch Shifter Stud, and its relationship to the Clutch Shifter Rack.

The Clutch Shifter Gear is retained by a setscrew.

I notched a piece of ½" scrap ply with a ¾" Fostner bit.

This gets inserted between the Gear and the front of the Gear Box casting to protect the teeth on the gear.

I then used a long Brass Pin Punch as a drift to tap the Gear Stud out the front of the Gear Box.


Stud and Gear is out.

Looking in to the front of the Gear Box, On the Left of the Clutch Shifter Rack, is a Dog Point set screw.

Out it comes

Followed by a Spring. Behind the spring is a plunger. My Small Magnet for removing the plunger went AWOL, so I'll remove the plunger after I pull the rack.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

On the Right of the Clutch Shifter Rack, there is a Set Screw with a nut locking it in place.

Off with the Nut

Then the long Dog Point Set Screw comes out.

The Clutch Shifter Fork, is held on to the Clutch Shifter Rack, by a pin with a cotter pin on each end.

Needle Nose Pliers, make quick work of removing the top cotter pin.

The pin can then be pulled from the bottom by hand. Here is worth noting that the Clutch Shifter Fork, is machined flat on top, and is round on the bottom.

On the Left side of the Gear Box (End Gear Side), there is a thin plug over the bore hole for the Clutch Shifter Rack.

With your fingers, you can use the Clutch Shifter Rack as a slide hammer to tap this plug out.

Proceeding with the slide hammer action, the Clutch Shifter Rack will start working its way out.

This Same action will tap the Clutch Shifter Fork off of the Clutch Shifter Rack.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Notice the slot for a Woodruff Key. Mine was missing it.

With the Clutch Shifter Fork off, you can now Pull the Clutch Shifter Rack out from the Left side of the Gear Box

Here you can see where there was supposed to be a Woodruff key in the shaft.

And here is the Clutch Shifter Rack parts all laid out. You can now see the Plunger for the Spring Detent as well.

The Gear Box now looks like this from the front.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Now we can pull out the Feed Shifter Assembly.

On the Right side of the Gear box, there is a long Dog Point Set Screw that retains the Feed Shifter Pinion. It might be hidden by paint, but it has to come out.

The Long Dog Point Screw that retains the Feed Shifter Pinion.

Looking from the Back of the Gear Box, you can see a Small set Screw that retains the Feed Shifter Rack Pinion. You only have access to this after the Tumbler Plates are out. Now would be a good time to mark the relationship between the Feed Shifter Rack Pinion Gear and the Rack. With Limited access, I tried to make the Rack where it enters the bore with a long point Sharpe. Unfortunately, it accidentally got wiped off when I removed it, so I'll have to deal with that later. Its only got two positions at least.

With the Retaining Dog Point Set Screw on the side already out, you can slide the Feed Shifter Pinon forward enough to get an L-Hex key in there.

Set Screw removed. It's tiny so try to not drop it into the Gear Box.
You can now pull the Feed shifter Pinon from the front of the Gear Box.

It's made of Bronze.

Looking from the back of the Gear Box, the back of the Feed Shifter Rack, has a pin in it.

Mine pulled out easily. Looks like it should have had a cotter pin in the back side of it, but that was missing on mine.

I used a small brass Pin Punch as a drift to tap the Feed Shifter Rack, to the left.

Looking into the pin hole, you can see that this is starting to separate the Feed Shifter Fork from it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

You can see the Feed Shifter Fork's bronze shaft starting to be come exposed. I now laid the Gear Box flat on its face to make the next portion easier.

On the Right side of the Gear Box (Bed Side) there is a thin plug that the Feed Shifter plate was previously blocking.

With a pin punch in the hole in the Feed Shifter rack, you can now use it as a slide hammer to tap the plug out.


The Feed Shifter Rack, now pulls right out.

And here is the Feed Shifter Assembly all laid out.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Up next is to remove the cone gear stack.

I think removing the Clutch shaft first should be easier, but it was being stubborn, so I switched gears and did it in this order instead.

First remove the bearing retaining ring set screws from the Right hand side.

The remove the ¼-20 screw in the center of the Bearing retaining cap. On my Machine that cap has a single dot for the witness marks.

Insert a longer ¼-20 screw and tighten it.

This pushes the bearing lock ring free from the Right side.

The remove the set screws holding the Bearing cap in place on the Left Side, and further tighten the ¼-20 screw.

Off comes the bearing cap.

I placed the Gear Box on its Right Side ( bed side down) in my arbor press, so that I could push the Cone Gear shaft from its Left side (End Gear side) using a drift.

The Bearing is now free of its bore.

The Right Hand bearing is a New Departure 3204. There is a ground washer that was installed behind it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I can now pul the cone shaft with the Cone Gears on it from the front of the Gear Box.

The bearings easily tap off of the shaft once out. Keep track of what side is L vs R. I put a small "R" as a witness mark on the right hand side of each one.

The key taps off of the shaft with a brass drift.

Followed by the Gear Spacer.

I then pressed the Left hand Cone Gear Shaft bearing out of the Gear Box. It is a New Departure C8504 Bearing.

Cone Gear Shaft assembly fully laid out Left to Right. The "R" side of each gear is facing up.

I assembled it on some ⅜" all thread to keep it in order.

 

[slodat]

You are definitely in deep now! Excited to see how it turns out!

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Clutch Shaft Removal


On the Right side of the Gear box there is a gear on the end of the Clutch shaft held in place by a retaining ring.

My Knipex "special retaining ring pliers" made quick work of getting the ring off.

The tips are specially designed for this kind of ring.

I used a Spudger to ply the gear off.

Note the side with the protruding shaft goes toward the Gear Box.

The Woodruff key then gets tapped off of the shaft.

Behind the gear is a Bearing retaining ring with 2 set screws holding it in place. The set screws now get removed. Note this ring has 2 dots for the factory witness marks on it.

On the Left Side of the Gear Box (End Gear Side) the ¼-20 screw in the center of the bearing cap gets removed and repalced with a longer ¼-20 screw. I then used this to push the Bearing retaining ring from the other side. Then I removed the two set screws holing the left hand cap in place, and threaded. in the ¼-20 screw some more to remove the Left Bearing cap as well.

The Gear Box then goes back into the arbor Press laying on its Right (bed side) and the Clutch shaft gets pushed out from the Left Side (end gearside).

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Here is the Clutch Gear Assembly fully laid out.

The Clutch Gear Shaft uses 2, New Departure 3204 Bearings.

Clutch Gear Assembly

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Ok, last shaft that needs to get pulled from the Gear box is the Tumbler Shaft. This could have been done after pulling the Tumbler racks, but it was being stubborn, so I soaked it with some penetrating oil over night.

On the Bed side of the Gear Box, there is a Large Bearing retaining plate for the Tumbler Shaft.

It's held in place by 4 SHCS.

I then used a Spudger tool with a freshly ground cutting blade to work around the edges of it.

The gasket material had done a good job of gluing the plate on!

The Gear box then goes into the Arbor Press with the Right side (bed side) facing down.

Using a drift I press on the inner Tumbler Shaft, hoping to push its bearing out of the other side.

Well, thats not just the bearing!

But it did give me some clearance on the other side.

I can now lift out the Tumbler Shaft Clutch Gear.

You can now see the bronze shifting fork that was in the Feed Shifter Rack.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

It also lifts right out.

I then continued to press the Tumbler Shafts down.

The Tumbler Gear Bracket can now be lifted out.

The inner Tumbler shaft can get lift out now as well.

The Outer Tumbler Shaft then can be removed from the opposite side of the Gear Box.

The bearing is still in it.

So I pressed it out in the arbor press using a short section of iron pipe a bearing drift and a long brass drift.

The Tumbler Shaft also uses a New Departure 3240 Bearing.

You can see where the Tumbler Gear interacted with the Tumbler Shaft in relation to each of the Cone Gears!

Tumbler Shaft laid out.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Tumbler Shaft assembly as it sits in the Gear Box.

The oil sight now comes out of the front of the Gear box.

I removed the large plug on the back right of the gear box


As well as a small plug that was on the opposite side from when I removed the Clutch shifter. Turns out you can tap that out either direction.

I also found that this screw hole from the Lower Tumbler plate mounting, interacts with the Tumbler Shaft.

And its fully stripped down.



Time for a good IPA. I think I earned it after that!

 

[nadogail]

Just stumbled across this thread, May you enjoy your Monarch and Good Health for many years.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

That thing is definitely more complex than my big Springfield. Mine was a pretty straightforward rebuild compared to this.

Makes me wonder if this thread- the pics and details- can't be properly archived somewhere. Here and PM are both pretty decent, I suppose, I just wonder if there isn't something that might make it a little more searchable, or something.

Especially in case I ever get myself a round-dial.

Doc.

It is complex, but it seems to be very well thought out. Once I figured out how to break it all down into separate sections, it seems quite bit more simple now.

You are definitely in deep now! Excited to see how it turns out!

That I am! We will see if I can get it back together!

Just stumbled across this thread, May you enjoy your Monarch and Good Health for many years.

Thanks!

 

[Grant Gunderson]

With the GearBox and Headstock torn down, that just leaves the Apron.


It is absolutely filthy! After looking over the Apron, I feel that the most logical way of tearing it down is to do it from the top down. I also find when working on complex things, its easier if you can mentally and figuratively break it down into separate sub assemblies.

Doing so, we find the Apron has the following sub-assemblies
Top Idler Gear
Rack Pinion Gear
Take Up Bearing
Cross Feed Friction
Halfnut
Handweel
Longitudinal Friction
Lower Idler
Apron Feed Reverse / Worm wheel / Worm
Pump



First to come out is the Top Idler Gear assembly.

Looking top down form backside of Apron

On the backside of the apron, Monarch used Scotch Keys to keep the shafts and bushing from rotating. First I remove the small set screw between the shaft and the bushing.

Then I used the small #1 hollow ground screw driver to remove the screw between the bushing and the case.

I then used a medium sized brass drift to push the Idler Gear stud out.


I scribed an "F" on it with a carbide scribe. It also has a factory witness mark on it, but no idea what it actual is of.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I then placed a smaller brass drift inside of the bushing ( so it doesn't drop into the case) and then pushed the busing out with my largest brass drift.

Idler Gear assembly, Back to Front.

Next up is removal of the Take up Bearing assembly.


The top locking screw gets removed first

Then the retaining ring that holds the bearing to the shaft gets removed. I used a small set of retaining ring pliers, but a flathead screwdriver will also work well for these.

The shaft then slides right out.

Here are all of the parts all laid out. Back to Front. I am replacing the bearing with the same ones I used for the Saddle. FAG629-C-2HRS-L038

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Next item to remove is the Rack Pinon Gear


The front bearing cap is held on by 4 countersink screws.

I had to work around it with my Spudger to pry it off.


The rear bearing retainer is also held in place by 4 countersink screws.


The bearing retaining screw needs to come out next. I sued my Pin Spanner to remove it, with a block of wood wedged between the gear and the case to create enough friction to hold the shaft. That screw was in very tight!


I then used a brass drift to push the shaft out from the front.

Shaft removed with rear bearing retained by woodruff key

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The rack pinion gear and the rack pinion spacer, can then be removed from the casting. I marked the front side of the gear with an "F" between the two factory marks.

The woodruff key gets tapped out with a brass pin punch.

I could then press the bearing off with the arbor press.

The rear pinion shaft bearing is a New Departure C 88505

To get the front rack pinion bearing out, I sued my Park pivot bearing press with some parts of a wheel bearing kit to press It out.

The front pinion shaft bearing is also a New Departure C 88505

Here is the Rack Pinon assembly all laid out, Back to Front.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Up next is the Cross Feed Friction assembly


Note, the oil line feeding the assembly into the oil passage here

The lever is retained by a tapper pin.

A Starrett starter punch made quick work of removing it.

The lever shaft is also retained by a dog point set screw. It was buried in paint on mine.

Out comes the lever with the shaft.

The bearing retainer on the back is held on by 4 brass countersink screws. I used a #5 hollow ground screw driver to remove them.


The Friction Stem front cap is held on by 4 SHCS

holding the rear of the shaft with non-marking pliers, I then unscrewed the Friction Stem Nut using a screwdriver.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Using a hollow ground screwdriver I removed the Friction Stem Nut.


At the back of the Apron, the shaft has a tapper pin thats ground flush that needs to be removed. It's hard to see if its oily!


I then pulled the Friction Stem cap off. Note the oil weep hole that is on top.

The front side of the friction stem assembly, has two set screws, one on top and one on the bottom.

I then pulled the thrust washer and rear retainer sleeve off.

and then the rest f the friction stem assembly out of the front.

The cross feed friction gears can now come out. Note, there is a washer, a spring and a thrust bearing pack between them, that if you are unlucky like me, you will have to fish them out of the apron.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I marked the F front side of the front gear with an "f" and the rear side of the back gear with a "B"

To confuse things, their is a factory "R" on the front of the front gear.

Note, for reassembly, there is a oil weep hole on both the front friction gear and the friction cover that need to align.

All laid out, Back to Front. Each of theFriction lever assemblies use two Thrust Bearings, 0.435” thick, 1.187” OD, ID 0.50” / 0.5635” and one Inner Thrust bearing, 0.2540” thick, 0.8700” OD, 0.500”ID