recommend an induction heater (for bolts) please

[Junkman]

I need to replace the body mounts on my 1962 Chevrolet, and I was thinking the induction heater would be just the tool to break the bond to the J-nut that the body bolt goes into. Has anyone tried the induction heater for this application?

 

[dscheidt]

So THATS how it works! I’ve heard maybe half a dozen explanations on how heat will facilitate the removal of a stubborn fastener but none that ever made sense to me. Is this also how it works to free a fastener that’s rusted/corroded in place?

that, and rust expands differently than steel does, so there's force breaking the bond.

 

[pbon]

I use to think the heat was supposed to expand the metal around the bolt, but that did not make sense when the bolt was often ending up red hot.

 

[zendriver]

I need to replace the body mounts on my 1962 Chevrolet, and I was thinking the induction heater would be just the tool to break the bond to the J-nut that the body bolt goes into. Has anyone tried the induction heater for this application?

Used one for brake caliper frame mounting bolts, not really rusted, but would not budge, untouched for 25 years.

Use mine a lot on old stuff. just need to break the tension.

 

[seber]

It is nothing more than a current limiter and if it runs on 110AC then a cheap transformer. No excuse for the exorbitant price

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Just learned this recently, and I believe it was on this site. Heating the bolt makes it want to expand, and because it's constricted by whatever surrounds it, it expands in the direction of least constriction, usually length. Once it's cooled it shrinks slightly. Repeated heating and cooling can help shrink it more. The diameter is reduced.

 

[Bmw4life]

Well amazon delivered with only 1 day late after all. This thing heated that bolt red and it came out no problem!

 

[Steve_P]

So THATS how it works! I’ve heard maybe half a dozen explanations on how heat will facilitate the removal of a stubborn fastener but none that ever made sense to me. Is this also how it works to free a fastener that’s rusted/corroded in place?

In the (Honda) crankshaft bolt case where you're heating the head, yes, you're lengthening it and reducing preload.

In the rusted bolt case, no, you're dealing with a different issue, and it's the expansion of the diameters this time

 

[nbpt100]

I am thinking of investing in one of these types of heaters. I estimate my use down to a about 6 to 10 times a year. Not heavy use. I am thinking of the Vevor 1500 or 1100 watt, or the Solaray 1100 watt. I am concerned the 1500 watt or higher may trip the breaker. On the Vevor, the coil leads look shorter. Maybe they are not, but it kinds looks like they are and that may make it harder to use in some locations.

VEVOR Induction Heater Bolt Removal, 1500W 110V Magnetic Induction Heater Kit, Handheld Nut Buster Tool, Mini Heating Machine for Rusty Screw Removing, Car Garage Repairing Tools with 8 Coil and Box | VEVOR US

Shop VEVOR Induction Heater Bolt Removal, 1500W 110V Magnetic Induction Heater Kit, Handheld Nut Buster Tool, Mini Heating Machine for Rusty Screw Removing, Car Garage Repairing Tools with 8 Coil and Box at lowest price, 2-day delivery, 30-day returns. Shop now at VEVOR.

www.vevor.com

Anyone have experience with the Vevor products?

 

[Bmw4life]

I dont have any experience but my buddy had no luck with 1100w. I would not go below 1500w. It shouldn't trip the breaker. What you really want is a tool that works, and you don't have to waste your time and money and be frustrated.

 

[308guru]

Basically, you are just lengthening the fastener due to thermal expansion which then lessens the preload- and the torque required to remove it.

I call B.S. on that idea. I've had fasteners with no, or next to no, load on them, just corroded/rusted in place and won't turn. Apply (a lot of) heat and voila, out it comes. I'll offer my thought that the heat causes one or both components to expand enough to break the bond of the corrosion/rust.

 

[nbpt100]

I call B.S. on that idea. I've had fasteners with no, or next to no, load on them, just corroded/rusted in place and won't turn. Apply (a lot of) heat and voila, out it comes. I'll offer my thought that the heat causes one or both components to expand enough to break the bond of the corrosion/rust.

Both factors could be true at the same time. So not BS. Maybe not the whole story, but a factor.

 

[nbpt100]

I dont have any experience but my buddy had no luck with 1100w. I would not go below 1500w. It shouldn't trip the breaker. What you really want is a tool that works, and you don't have to waste your time and money and be frustrated.

At 1800 watts and 120volts you are pulling 15amps. If you are on a 20 amp circuit, not a problem. If a 15 amp circuit, you have a problem. The cheaper ($500) Induction Innovations does not provide a wattage or current draw on their website. All I can find is voltage. The other two brands mentioned above have 1800 and 1100 watt units. Sure, I want it to work well, but if it keeps tripping the breaker, is it working?

 

[Bmw4life]

Go for 1800w. Mine is 15 amp and didn't trip the breaker. Just don't load anything on that breaker while using the heater.
You'll only use it for a couple of minutes here and there. It's not like it's "on" for an hour and the breaker keeps tripping.
Get 1800w you won't regret it

 

[Beerhippie]

Shops need 20A breakers, wiring and outlets. If your wiring is already 12 AWG (yellow Romex, if it's newer), you just need the breakers and outlets.

I have several corded 120V 15A tools.

 

[nbpt100]

I have to confirm what is in my garage. I am pretty sure it is 15amp. 1970's construction.

 

[Hakeem]

I have one of the cheaper knockoffs, a “hot rod” or something like that, and it works well but is slow. The name brand ones are much faster.

All that to say - if you’re going to get one of the knock offs get the 1500w at least.