Recommendations on Stud Extractors/Removal Tools?

[bulletpruf]

Fairly often I find myself removing studs, whether it's from an automotive engine or something smaller (chainsaw). Some SAE, some metric. I usually just use doubled up nuts to remove the stud, but that can be a sub-optimal method and lead to broken studs.

There seem to be a few different types of extractors out there and I was hoping someone with experience could chime in with a recommendation.

Thanks

Scott

 

[Russtred]

I have only used this type from OTC. It worked perfectly on exhaust manifold studs.

 

[four.cycle]

Old school:


Walden Worcester A1126 Stud Wrench - 1928 Marshall Wells catalog pp 3943-1

More old school:

Indestro 251 stud extractor - 1971 Indestro catalog No. 55 pp 62

Both of these styles were made by a number of different manufacturers over the course of the last century.
Either of them will perform nicely on old flatheads or big diesel trucks where there is room in the engine compartment to swing your arms around.
Otherwise, under the hood of a late-model vehicle, they are effectively useless.

Here's an example of a set made by Assenmacher, similar to Russtred's OTC unit above:


Assenmacher (AST) 201 4-pc stud extractor set (photo ebay)

Assenmacher / Assenmacher Specialty Tools, Inc., 6440 Odell Place, Boulder, CO 80301 / https://asttool.com/ / "AST" / est. 1978 / patent 4040763 Aug 9 1977 Gerhard Assenmacher / automotive specialty tools /

OTC / OTC Tools, Bosch Automotive Service Solutions, 28635 Mound Road, Warren, MI 48092 USA / https://www.otctools.com / originally Owatonna Tool Co., 321 Cedar St., Owatonna, MN / http://alloy-artifacts.org/owatonna-tool-company.html / http://alloy-artifacts.org/owatonna-tool-company.html#history / http://toolarchives.com/node/254 /

I'm sure these are made by other companies as well. Allows you to get AT the thing by means of an extension or other drive tool.

 

[AirMech#406]

ABN also has a nice set that Project Farm reviewed for a reasonable $35 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDLY1F3/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Project Farms video: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=EWLxzuDMuhk&usg=AOvVaw0eVkVEw_MGDrj1x8UtLkL3

 

[Dave455]

Best option for stud pullers is KoKen.

I have used both styles, and they both work perfectly. I prefer the “ratchet” style, but you don’t always have the space.

 

[four.cycle]

^ thanks Dave.

 

[ZRX61]

I've used a set offered by Snap On that acts like collets on the stud thread. Luckily, someone else paid for them.

 

[seanb02]

I’m in need of a good solution as well. Sometimes doubling up nuts on there doesn’t work, and the cam type are too large. Leaning towards picking up a Snap-on set.

 

[Iridium rand]

The old school ones get about as good a grip as is possible, so do knipex cobras if you have the room but other than that don’t know of any other methods besides what’s already been said, those socket looking ones are probably as good as it gets for tight spaces

 

[WWheeler]

A mig welder and a nut has proved to be my most successful stud extractor by far.

 

[charbar]

I've had awesome luck with one just like this-

Amazon.com

It's basically the size of a 1/2" drill chuck, so I can see where the socket style ones mentioned above might work better in a real tight area. Cant say I ever remember a time I could get mine to fit in a tight spot though either.

 

[four.cycle]

"... fit in a tight spot ..."

^ That issue seems to be the problem that I believe Assenmacher, Koken, and a few other companies have attempted to address.

I own copies of both of those "old school" units I posted above - the old 1920s Walden and the 1970's Indestro - and I don't think there's any place in the engine compartment of my '94 Ranger you'd get them to fit into.
Buddy of mine tried to use one of those big ones to pull an exhaust manifold stud out of a Dodge V8 truck and ended up pulling the entire exhaust manifold to get at it.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I wasnt impressed by the ”old school style“ in fact I think I ended up hurling it across the shop in rage after it broke on me.

the socket style ones are the best. You can get both SAE and Metric sizes.

 

[joecon]

All the above are great except the "old school ones". If you do not have room for them, try this, take a coupling nut in the same thread, screw a set screw into it, screw it on the stud, then tighten up the set screw, and back out the stud, this will work unless the stud is locktighted in or really stuck. Then use the same trick and heat. The old school ones put a sideways torque on the stud and can bend or break the stud.

 

[NFH2740]

Collet type is the only acceptable answer.

 

[bulletpruf]

ABN also has a nice set that Project Farm reviewed for a reasonable $35 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDLY1F3/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Project Farms video: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjDnqTrxdr3AhW9HzQIHaXEAS4QtwJ6BAgNEAI&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWLxzuDMuhk&usg=AOvVaw0eVkVEw_MGDrj1x8UtLkL3

Thanks, I ordered a set of these.

 

[bulletpruf]

I've used a set offered by Snap On that acts like collets on the stud thread. Luckily, someone else paid for them.

These do look nice, but my budget can't handle the going rate of $375 for a set right now. I'll add it to my wish list.

Snap-on Tools SAE Stud Remover & Resetter Tool Set CG-500 Metal Case USA Puller | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Snap-on Tools SAE Stud Remover & Resetter Tool Set CG-500 Metal Case USA Puller.</p> <br> <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Used condition. Fading to metal , marks , and signs of use in the garage. The case has scratches but...

www.ebay.com

 

[bulletpruf]

A mig welder and a nut has proved to be my most successful stud extractor by far.

Yes, I have used that as well, most recently on my '69 Bronco - several of the fender bolts needed this treatment, along with a timing cover stud. But what I'm really looking for is a tool to remove and install studs that are still salvageable.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

I've had awesome luck with one just like this-

Amazon.com

It's basically the size of a 1/2" drill chuck, so I can see where the socket style ones mentioned above might work better in a real tight area. Cant say I ever remember a time I could get mine to fit in a tight spot though either.

I ordered one of those as well. Looks like a good piece of gear.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

All the above are great except the "old school ones". If you do not have room for them, try this, take a coupling nut in the same thread, screw a set screw into it, screw it on the stud, then tighten up the set screw, and back out the stud, this will work unless the stud is locktighted in or really stuck. Then use the same trick and heat. The old school ones put a sideways torque on the stud and can bend or break the stud.

Yes, as I noted in my initial thread, that's my current method.

Given all the negative comments on the "old school style" I didn't order one of them.

Thanks

 

[AirMech#406]

Thanks, I ordered a set of these.

Cool! Let us know how they work for you. I am going to be ordering a set for myself as well. They are not a tool truck brand but most reviews seem positive on them. They seem like a good budget friendly option.

 

[WWheeler]

ABN also has a nice set that Project Farm reviewed for a reasonable $35 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDLY1F3/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Project Farms video: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjDnqTrxdr3AhW9HzQIHaXEAS4QtwJ6BAgNEAI&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWLxzuDMuhk&usg=AOvVaw0eVkVEw_MGDrj1x8UtLkL3

Welp, GJ got me again. I watched the entire vid and next thing you know...

FWIW the stud removal tests were toward the end and the ABN set was last up at 13m48s if anyone's else is interested in just checking out how well these did.

 

[ATC]

I want the ABN, socket-style set, but after watching the video, it looks like the stud wouldn't be able to be reused with that style of extractor. Too much damage to the threads. The ones that look like a drill chuck looks like you could clean the threads up with a die and reuse the stud. Might be something to think about:

 

[AirMech#406]

I want the ABN, socket-style set, but after watching the video, it looks like the stud wouldn't be able to be reused with that style of extractor. Too much damage to the threads. The ones that look like a drill chuck looks like you could clean the threads up with a die and reuse the stud. Might be something to think about:

In my experience, ATC, the drill chuck one will actually chew up the threads more (to the point where they are no longer usable). However, you are correct that the socket type does mash the threads a little.
When I was in A&P school, one of my instructors had a Mac tools version of the ABN socket stud remover. The threads usually were damaged after removal, but he would always chase them with his thread chaser (This set to be exact:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6UNHE/?tag=atomicindus08-20 ) and the threads would work fine again. Obviosuly, there is a limit to how many times you can do this before the stud threads are totally ka-put.

 

[WWheeler]

Yeah I've never been too worried about reusing a stud that was already broken or seized in place. I've always replaced such with new in any case, hence why I often skip all the nonsense and go straight to welding a nut on the stud. There have been times though where I was worried about frying a module so it's nice to have other methods. Which reminds me, I need to pick up some new left-handed cobalt bits.

 

[four.cycle]

Let us know how they work for you.

Please.
Hopefully maybe with a photo or two.

 

[bulletpruf]

Yeah I've never been too worried about reusing a stud that was already broken or seized in place. I've always replaced such with new in any case, hence why I often skip all the nonsense and go straight to welding a nut on the stud. There have been times though where I was worried about frying a module so it's nice to have other methods. Which reminds me, I need to pick up some new left-handed cobalt bits.

I'll replace when I can, but I work on some oddball stuff (60 year-old chainsaws, for example) that it might be difficult to source replacements for.

 

[richfinn]

I use the roller socket style stud pullers mostly (on good studs that aren't seized), if your dealing with corroded and seized studs your not going to beat oxy/acetylene or a mig welder or maybe even an inductor type tool.

They are more of a technicians time saver than a "get outta jail free" type tool to be honest, if you need to strip a cylinder head for skimming they are useful.

 

[bulletpruf]

I use the roller socket style stud pullers mostly (on good studs that aren't seized), if your dealing with corroded and seized studs your not going to beat oxy/acetylene or a mig welder or maybe even an inductor type tool.

They are more of a technicians time saver than a "get outta jail free" type tool to be honest, if you need to strip a cylinder head for skimming they are useful.

If I'm dealing with something that's corroded and seized, I'll certainly hit it with the torch first. I just like the fact that these removers support a longer length of stud than you'll get when using two nuts to remove it. Seems to make it less likely that you'll snap it.

 

[BarrelRoll]

Has anyone used a snapon a80a? I've been tempted to order one.

 

[matt_i]

I don't think exactly what you asked for but imo its by far the best/most reliable tool if the work can fit on the table.