Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

[rickairmedic]

Girl I have a 9,000 BTU portable in my 2 car garage and it does a great job even with uninsulated Brick walls . I do have an insulated overhead door though .


The drawer slides look good . Looks like this time next week we will be having to figure out what to put in the drawers . I liked Brents aluminum channel idea as well for drawer pulls.


Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Progress is looking great Girl!

Yep, hunting trip, the left coast has the oddest seasons in the US... WAY too early...

The good news is it's been raining for most of a week, and that should improve things. I leave tomorrow at O'dark thirty, and come home next Tuesday.

Yeah, I wondered about the season. Dad and my uncle are suppose to be getting out to their lease soon to do a little clearing work and stock up on firewood before the season starts. I'm disappointed, I'm a good distance away so it's tough for me to get down there. Haven't had a good hunting trip in a while and I really miss it. I need to get a lease up here but ever had one on my own so I don't know the ins and outs.

Have a good trip

Girl I have a 9,000 BTU portable in my 2 car garage and it does a great job even with uninsulated Brick walls . I do have an insulated overhead door though .


The drawer slides look good . Looks like this time next week we will be having to figure out what to put in the drawers . I liked Brents aluminum channel idea as well for drawer pulls.


Rick

I think the insulated door would be the best thing I could do temp wise. Garage faces west = great sauna in the summer.

On the drawer handles I need to see how level everything came out. Aluminum pulls on black drawers will highlight the slant

 

[mdbeck1]

...On the drawer handles I need to see how level everything came out. Aluminum pulls on black drawers will highlight the slant

If the drawers are crooked put the handles on level.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

If the drawers are crooked put the handles on level.

Shhhh <whispering> Don't tell them the secrets

 

[mdbeck1]

Shhhh <whispering> Don't tell them the secrets

Okay, it's just between us then. I won't tell anyone else. I just wanted to make sure you knew about it.

 

[shopnut]

If the drawers are crooked put the handles on level.

If the drawers are crooked put the handles on level? ...WHAT A GREAT IDEA!

Oops, did I say that out loud? (Rule #1 - there shall be no secrets on GJ )

 

[GirlnAgarage]

LOL Thanks guys, knew I could count on you

 

[mdbeck1]

LOL Thanks guys, knew I could count on you

I guess we weren't quiet enough....


...oh well... better luck next time...

 

[Jack Olsen]

Time to come clean and confess our 'make it look right' cheats?

Okay, I cut up an old cabinet:

And I make this out of the pieces:

But once I get the first coat of paint it, I realize I didn't cut the top of one of the new cabinet doors square. If you look at the set of lower doors on the right, below the counter, you'll see the top line above the two doors is not right:

But the hinges are welded on, so I'm going to have to cut it where it swings or leave it looking wrong.

Or I can do a quick hit with some masking tape and black paint -- essentially painting in a shadow.

You'd never notice it now.

But it'll be our secret, right?

Back to your regularly-scheduled thread.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Paint a shadow. That redefines cheats. LOL That's awesome. Not even any hardware or filler involved. Paint. Just paint.

 

[Zeke]

Jack, you just gave me an idea about scribing something to a rough surface. My dividers sometimes bounce around and I get a terrible line. If I follow the general line with tape, I can hit it with spray paint and cut to that. I guess I could leave the tape too, but that hasn't always worked for me.

LOL, I've used a Magic Marker more than once to "fix" a gap.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Gotta post really quick, I got fajitas to get on the grill.

All drawer slides are installed. My drawers are mocked up. I didn't proceed with any hole punching for the drawer piece. I need to get some 1/8th strap for spacers. I need to get creative on how I mark the line on the drawer. Then I can proceed.

Anyway, couple drawers mocked up. The screw slots on the drawer slide are vertical so I'll have additional control to fine tune the drawers up and down once they're bolted on.

 

[rickairmedic]

Girl if you have a sliding square ( looks like a ruler with a square attatched ) . Just figure out how high up the sides you want your slides to mount and slide the square up till you have that much ruler sticking out . Then take a scribe or a sharpie in a pinch and run the square down the bottom of each side with the scribe or sharpie on the end of the ruler . Perfect lines at just the right spot on every drawer . LEt me know ifn ya want pics . I just got home but could snap a couple real quick.


Rick

 

[mdbeck1]

Gotta post really quick, I got fajitas to get on the grill.

All drawer slides are installed. My drawers are mocked up. I didn't proceed with any hole punching for the drawer piece. I need to get some 1/8th strap for spacers. I need to get creative on how I mark the line on the drawer. Then I can proceed.

Anyway, couple drawers mocked up. The screw slots on the drawer slide are vertical so I'll have additional control to fine tune the drawers up and down once they're bolted on.

I usually cut a pair of "spacer boards" that fit between the slides. Put the bottom drawer slides in carefully and then put your spacers in, place the next slides on top, tighten down and repeat.


On the holes on the drawers, get a spare piece of angle iron and drill the first set of holes carefully. Then just clamp onto the drawer and walla all the holes are drilled in the same place on all the drawers.

Of course this also helps you mess all of the drawers up the same way.....

 

[Red Leader]

Gotta post really quick, I got fajitas to get on the grill.

All drawer slides are installed. My drawers are mocked up. I didn't proceed with any hole punching for the drawer piece. I need to get some 1/8th strap for spacers. I need to get creative on how I mark the line on the drawer. Then I can proceed.

Anyway, couple drawers mocked up. The screw slots on the drawer slide are vertical so I'll have additional control to fine tune the drawers up and down once they're bolted on.

I like it. Very industrial looking. Gosh, I think it would look pretty cool to even just hit those drawers with a clear coat and capture the metal finish.

Great work!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Girl if you have a sliding square ( looks like a ruler with a square attatched ) . Just figure out how high up the sides you want your slides to mount and slide the square up till you have that much ruler sticking out . Then take a scribe or a sharpie in a pinch and run the square down the bottom of each side with the scribe or sharpie on the end of the ruler . Perfect lines at just the right spot on every drawer . LEt me know ifn ya want pics . I just got home but could snap a couple real quick.


Rick

I'm confused I might need a picture.

I usually cut a pair of "spacer boards" that fit between the slides. Put the bottom drawer slides in carefully and then put your spacers in, place the next slides on top, tighten down and repeat.


On the holes on the drawers, get a spare piece of angle iron and drill the first set of holes carefully. Then just clamp onto the drawer and walla all the holes are drilled in the same place on all the drawers.

Of course this also helps you mess all of the drawers up the same way.....

That's mostly how I installed the slides. I started at the bottom and worked my way up. My level was the proper width for the total space so I used it to scribe my first line. Then I put my slide right against the bottom of the line. I had a .56" gap under the slide to the bottom 2x4 so used some .5" aluminum strap and a folded sheet of paper and that gave me exactly the size spacer I needed. I held that setup in place and center punched the holes and screwed in the screws.

I repeated the sequence on the other side and of course, all the way up.

If you notice the top slide is right under the crossing 2x4. It's got 1/6th-1/8th" clearance. On the very bottom slide I'm planning 1/8" clearance with the bottom 2x4 and the drawer bottom. And 1/8" between each drawer. I'm counting on the vertical slots of the slide allowing me to fine tune the drawers to "just right". Hopefully I don't have a high side on a drawer give me clearance issues. If that's the case, it'll come out and I will grind down (the product of my fabulous straight line cutting skills).

The slightly even sides of the drawers are why I can't just measure the drawer slide against and line up my holes. So I thought what I'd try...starting from the bottom, place two 1/8" straps from one side of the slide to another (one straps across the front corner, one across the back corners. In the bottom most slide's case, the straps will rest on the 2x4s. I will place the drawer in place, make sure its sets down nice and flat. Then I'll take my marking utensil..scratch awl or sharpie...find the center screw and mark on the drawer, front and back. I'll also draw the stop edge at the end of the slide piece so I know where it goes. Then I'll pull the drawer out, connect the dots with a straight line. The pull the slide out, place it on the drawer and center punch my holes. Drill. Install.

I need to grab hardware. My 3/8" 8-32 Screw and Tnuts are a size too big (the Tnut shaft won't fit in the slide slide and the screw sticks out just enough to hit the slide side. So I'm going to drop to a 1/4" 6-32 set (if they make that) and that should take care of that. If I can't find that stuff local I'll order online from McMaster Car. They're who I order hardware from.

I like it. Very industrial looking. Gosh, I think it would look pretty cool to even just hit those drawers with a clear coat and capture the metal finish.

Great work!

Thanks





Below is my spacer idea to get the drawer sides marked. The yellow is the 1/8" strap. The red line is the scribe mark.

Like how the corners are "nice and square" The little squares in there are 1/16" scraps stacked on each other as the "initial idea". The strap is important instead of those scraps because it won't tilt down off the edge of the slide and will have a consistent space.

 

[rickairmedic]

Ok I wasnt thinkng when I originaly posted this and it may require DH's help for a spare hand . Heres the square and if you have one look at the end there is actually a indent in the end where you could put a scribe or sharpie . Just figure out how high up the side of the drawer you want your line set the square to size . Then place the square against the bottom of the drawer put your scribe/sharpie on the end and slide the square along the bottom of the drawer and you get a perfect line .


Rick

 

[mdbeck1]

Ok I wasnt thinkng when I originaly posted this and it may require DH's help for a spare hand . Heres the square and if you have one look at the end there is actually a indent in the end where you could put a scribe or sharpie . Just figure out how high up the side of the drawer you want your line set the square to size . Then place the square against the bottom of the drawer put your scribe/sharpie on the end and slide the square along the bottom of the drawer and you get a perfect line .


Rick

Most of the carpenters I knew called them a tri-square. If you are going to buy one they also make a sliding piece for a center finder that comes in handy.

 

[mdbeck1]

:...
That's mostly how I installed the slides. I started at the bottom and worked my way up. My level was the proper width for the total space so I used it to scribe my first line. Then I put my slide right against the bottom of the line. I had a .56" gap under the slide to the bottom 2x4 so used some .5" aluminum strap and a folded sheet of paper and that gave me exactly the size spacer I needed. I held that setup in place and center punched the holes and screwed in the screws.

...

I have been known to do some woodworking and if I need a REAL TIGHT joint I've been known to use layered masking tape or those extra playing cards that you lost the queen of spades from.

 

[rickairmedic]

Heres a " combination square " cheap if you dont have one .


http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-combination-square-set-92471.html


Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Ok I wasnt thinkng when I originaly posted this and it may require DH's help for a spare hand . Heres the square and if you have one look at the end there is actually a indent in the end where you could put a scribe or sharpie . Just figure out how high up the side of the drawer you want your line set the square to size . Then place the square against the bottom of the drawer put your scribe/sharpie on the end and slide the square along the bottom of the drawer and you get a perfect line .


Rick

Are you trying to play match maker or what? DH and I don't work well together. Something about I'm too specific and he isn't

I have been known to do some woodworking and if I need a REAL TIGHT joint I've been known to use layered masking tape or those extra playing cards that you lost the queen of spades from.

hehe nice

 

[rickairmedic]

Ok I will admit that SWMBO and I dont do well on projects together either but she will lend a hand when I need one . Although I will most likely hear at some point I'm doing it wrong .

Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I must give DH some credit, he does the same. We've done well recognizing that he and I don't work the same way so if/when we do have to, we're very careful. It's like forced neutrality.

And yes, at some point or another one of us will be doing it wrong

 

[W650Mike]

This entire project and thread just amazes me. You've gone WAY past painting a stripe on the wall!!!

You dedication to craftsmanship and detail is inspirational.

I’m so looking forward to seeing the finished product!

 

[tinbender 66]

This entire project and thread just amazes me. You've gone WAY past painting a stripe on the wall!!!

You dedication to craftsmanship and detail is inspirational.

I’m so looking forward to seeing the finished product!

 

[MajorLeeGassole]

Time to come clean and confess our 'make it look right' cheats?

Okay, I cut up an old cabinet:

And I make this out of the pieces:

But once I get the first coat of paint it, I realize I didn't cut the top of one of the new cabinet doors square. If you look at the set of lower doors on the right, below the counter, you'll see the top line above the two doors is not right:

But the hinges are welded on, so I'm going to have to cut it where it swings or leave it looking wrong.

Or I can do a quick hit with some masking tape and black paint -- essentially painting in a shadow.

You'd never notice it now.

But it'll be our secret, right?

Back to your regularly-scheduled thread.

Nice going, Jack.

That wins the, "You da man" award.

 

[Jack Olsen]

I da man who's too lazy to file that edge down with a grinder.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

This entire project and thread just amazes me. You've gone WAY past painting a stripe on the wall!!!

You dedication to craftsmanship and detail is inspirational.

I’m so looking forward to seeing the finished product!

Well I wish it was for nobler reasons than 'went off on a tangent'

Thanks






I had every intention of marking and drilling holes today (I swear). But I marked one drawer then spent the afternoon goofing around and sharpening drill bits with the new Drill Doctor 350X I picked up. That tool is cool $55 for that and some 1/8" strap for drawer spacing. Love the military discount. Oh, take a break and empty the little dust area underneath in the DD. Otherwise you'll start a big metal dust ember and melt a hole in the bottom of the machine

Ok, I'm off to get dressed and hit a charity event at the country club I know right? Me?

Yall have a great Friday.

 

[couchmechanic]

Okay I looked at this twenty times, ten of those with clean glasses and am hard pressed to really see the visual evidence of your mistake. A = I need new glasses. B = Your screw-up is better than my finished work. or C = All of the above.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

"Where do I put this?" I went CL shopping...$65 and it came home with me.

This is a Rockwell Delta 11" 11-120. It was a bench top model but somewhere in its 60+ years it got it's own stand. I'm really surprise how quiet this unit is when running. I turned it on expecting to hear more nose. It just hummed.

The guy I bought this from was, in my fair estimation, a GJer who doesn't know it. I went to look at the press and we chatted about it. He showed me the features. He let me test it out. Then we chatted about the projects he was working on. He had built a small 12" press brake for some 16ga aluminum. We chatted about his plasma cutter and a jig he's making, his welders, his motorcycles. I think we spent more time visiting and projects than I did checking out the press. He took good care of it and I let him know it was going to a good him. He seemed a bit sad to see it go. But he had a really nice 50s Craftsman bench top that he was using. He was hurting for floorspace in his small single car garage. I showed him a pictured of my garage and he said 'thanks alot', now his walls need paint.


Anyway, it's been a great Saturday here in DFW

 

[Red Leader]

"Where do I put this?" I went CL shopping...$65 and it came home with me.

This is a Rockwell Delta 11" 11-120. It was a bench top model but somewhere in its 60+ years it got it's own stand. I'm really surprise how quiet this unit is when running. I turned it on expecting to hear more nose. It just hummed.

The guy I bought this from was, in my fair estimation, a GJer who doesn't know it. I went to look at the press and we chatted about it. He showed me the features. He let me test it out. Then we chatted about the projects he was working on. He had built a small 12" press brake for some 16ga aluminum. We chatted about his plasma cutter and a jig he's making, his welders, his motorcycles. I think we spent more time visiting and projects than I did checking out the press. He took good care of it and I let him know it was going to a good him. He seemed a bit sad to see it go. But he had a really nice 50s Craftsman bench top that he was using. He was hurting for floorspace in his small single car garage. I showed him a pictured of my garage and he said 'thanks alot', now his walls need paint.


Anyway, it's been a great Saturday here in DFW

Great find! Your Homecraft press was made in 1953 and has many of the bits that usually go missing, like the quill lock and return spring cap. Just behind that quill return spring assembly, (on left side facing drill press) you'll notice a little tab with an empty hole in the vertical position. This little tab is used to mount what many refer to as a 'retirement lamp', which often costs more than the machine itself

It also looks like that DP would be a good candidate for an easy restore. Drill presses are a good way to get your feet wet with restorations because they usually are simple and easy to take apart and put back together.

Good luck with it!

If you have a dial/digital caliper, might be fun to check the runout on that bad boy. I'm betting it is very minimal indeed.

-RL

 

[rickairmedic]

Well kewl looks like you made your decision . " I guess the guy with the Craftsman wouldnt budge huh" . Sooooooooo did ya invite the guy to come join up in all our fun around here .



Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Great find! Your Homecraft press was made in 1953 and has many of the bits that usually go missing, like the quill lock and return spring cap. Just behind that quill return spring assembly, (on left side facing drill press) you'll notice a little tab with an empty hole in the vertical position. This little tab is used to mount what many refer to as a 'retirement lamp', which often costs more than the machine itself

It also looks like that DP would be a good candidate for an easy restore. Drill presses are a good way to get your feet wet with restorations because they usually are simple and easy to take apart and put back together.

Good luck with it!

If you have a dial/digital caliper, might be fun to check the runout on that bad boy. I'm betting it is very minimal indeed.

-RL

Ah, '53 - cool! How did you determine that? Is it bad that when I read "'53: I thought, "It was born the same year as mom and dad"


I am thinking of a restoration on this. And it would be my first resto. That'll be in line behind a line of things though.

Well kewl looks like you made your decision . " I guess the guy with the Craftsman wouldnt budge huh" . Sooooooooo did ya invite the guy to come join up in all our fun around here .



Rick

The guy with the Cman never got to back to me That pretty much made the decision

I had the GJ invitation on my tongue but we kept going off on tangents. I might send him an email with the link.

 

[Red Leader]

Ah, '53 - cool! How did you determine that? Is it bad that when I read "'53: I thought, "It was born the same year as mom and dad"


I am thinking of a restoration on this. And it would be my first resto. That'll be in line behind a line of things though.

You can check out this link below:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx

...and see that the serial number for your drill press falls in-between AJ and AX, which puts it at 1953. It was also made in Tupelo, Mississippi

A restoration would be great. The metal bits and column usually clean up real nice. Depending on the bearings and runout, you might be able to keep the same head bearings. I was able to in my Atlas press.

You could go all original and do it up in the original-style machinery gray, or go a little more wild and do a metallic color, or a green, blue, etc. The sky's the limit.

You should be forewarned though. You have bought a vintage tool. I don't know if it is your first, but you are standing on the edge of a slippery slope. Soon, you'll realize that the restorations aren't that hard, the tools are made right (in USA), replacement parts are easily found, the prices are great, the people that admire them are fun to hang out with and nothing will be stopping you from going all out and replacing all your tools with vintage counterparts. Heck, some people even buy all vintage, sell all their modern stuff and end up making money on the switch. Very attractive

If you have any questions about vintage power tools, let me know. If I don't know the answer, I'll direct you to someone that does.

Good luck resisting! It is futile

 

[GirlnAgarage]

You can check out this link below:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx

...and see that the serial number for your drill press falls in-between AJ and AX, which puts it at 1953. It was also made in Tupelo, Mississippi

A restoration would be great. The metal bits and column usually clean up real nice. Depending on the bearings and runout, you might be able to keep the same head bearings. I was able to in my Atlas press.

You could go all original and do it up in the original-style machinery gray, or go a little more wild and do a metallic color, or a green, blue, etc. The sky's the limit.

You should be forewarned though. You have bought a vintage tool. I don't know if it is your first, but you are standing on the edge of a slippery slope. Soon, you'll realize that the restorations aren't that hard, the tools are made right (in USA), replacement parts are easily found, the prices are great, the people that admire them are fun to hang out with and nothing will be stopping you from going all out and replacing all your tools with vintage counterparts. Heck, some people even buy all vintage, sell all their modern stuff and end up making money on the switch. Very attractive

If you have any questions about vintage power tools, let me know. If I don't know the answer, I'll direct you to someone that does.

Good luck resisting! It is futile

You know, I am discovering that

I don't have a dial indicator. I do have a dial caliper. Can I use that? If so how can I set that up?

In my googling I was getting close, I kept finding the vintagemachinery link but didn't get far enough into the weeds. I appreciate the press into that That looks like a really good resource. Matter of fact, I just sent Dad an email with that link, and to show 'n tell my drill press. Dad had a few choice words the last time he turned on his drill press and saw some wobble. Hopefully he can use the drill press tune up pdf.

So this little monster is from Tupelo, Mississippi eh? That's good. It won't have that funny accent that they get up in Wis-CAN-sen. DHs family is from up there, they're a hoot. When I unloaded my neighbor was outside pushing his granddaghter around in her stroller. I called him over to have a look. I found it very funny he just pulled her stroller up behind DHs car, set the parking brake and about jogged into the garage. Good thing Nana (grandma) wasn't home to see that I offered him use if he needed straight holes. He said sure but he'd wait until I have my garage done so he can come over and use everything. Good man.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Oh on the paint, I was wondering if I could use finish similar to how you did your vise (stunning btw), but in a green to go with my color scheme. I don't think the original gray would look bad. But between my Lincoln welders, black carts, green stripes and wood frames and plywood/wood tops (I think I'm going to stain dark), I've got a lot of colors in there dancing around.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Jack,

What was your original idea in this photo? Were you going to use the remainder of the same cabinet you cut up (or another one) and if so, why did you give up on it? Looks like it could have been an interesting solution.

 

[Red Leader]

Oh on the paint, I was wondering if I could use finish similar to how you did your vise (stunning btw), but in a green to go with my color scheme. I don't think the original gray would look bad. But between my Lincoln welders, black carts, green stripes and wood frames and plywood/wood tops (I think I'm going to stain dark), I've got a lot of colors in there dancing around.

Girl,

This might be a good option for you. Cans are about $5-$6 and you could probably get away with using 2 cans, maybe 3 on that press. Available everywhere, and is the exact same stuff I used on the vise except for the color. I did mine in Verde Green which, unfortunately, is a special order because nobody stocks it.

Anyhow, I have a very specific method for how I painted that vise that gave it both a great hammered texture, but a glass smooth gloss finish. Let me know if you're interested and I'll tell ya more!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Girl,

This might be a good option for you. Cans are about $5-$6 and you could probably get away with using 2 cans, maybe 3 on that press. Available everywhere, and is the exact same stuff I used on the vise except for the color. I did mine in Verde Green which, unfortunately, is a special order because nobody stocks it.

Anyhow, I have a very specific method for how I painted that vise that gave it both a great hammered texture, but a glass smooth gloss finish. Let me know if you're interested and I'll tell ya more!

Thanks. I saw that and I'm thinking I might do a test run and see how the color comes out.

I went back through and found the vise post and how you sprayed it. So I'll try that method.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Looked at paint today. That green was, how you say, ugly. Instead I grabbed some hammered gray. Last night I got to thinking about it and decided to keep gray on the drill press and switch my carts & vise and the new drawers will go to gray as well.

So, grabbed the FC cart first. Roughed it, wiped it down and sprayed. Done. Wait to cure before putting it back together.

Next grabbed the vise. Figured it would get my feet wet taking apart a cast iron piece with dirty metal bits that need to be shiny....ie, the drill press. I dunked the painted parts in Jasco paint remover and removed pretty much everything. Then primed and painted. The first coat on the bottom side was taking forever to dry as it cooled off after the sun went away. So, I'll be waiting 48hrs before I can flip and do the top side. So far so good.