Replacing original air hose ends?
- Thread starter ScaldedDog
- Start date
acer66
Well-known member
That is what I am afraid of.
Wrench97
Well-known member
At home I have 50' Flexzilla 3/8 on a hose reel, it's about 8 years old no complaints, at the shop they lasted 5-6 years with a couple repairs
metalmagpie
Well-known member
I made a copy of a Clamptite tool. It works great. Made mine out of an old turnbuckle. Didn't cost me a dime. I make up a fair number of oxygen and fuel gas hoses and fittings secured with my "Clamptite" stay put.
At least go watch their video. Won't cost you a dime either. https://clamptitetools.com
metalmagpie
At least go watch their video. Won't cost you a dime either. https://clamptitetools.com
metalmagpie
6869704X4
Active member
I was drunk one night and ordered one, thought it cool. It works, air hose, water hose, I temp repaired a split hammer handle. That was two years ago. One beer induced purchase that wound up OK.
hans109h
Well-known member
I use a handheld crimper and ferrules. Works great.Hans
metalmagpie
Well-known member
Got a brand name? Link? Source?
Hans
andyvh1959
Well-known member
If you intend to keep the other hoses, a couple options:
1. Cut off the current hose end, far enough to get past the failed hose section,
2. Go to a local hydraulic hose shop and replace the old hose end with a "reusable" style hose end
3. Add a 90 degree fitting to take the strain off the hose, so the hose hangs straight down from the connection
If you chose a reusable hose end, be sure to use a water based lube on the insert mandrel to turn it into the shell. Once you start turning the insert into the shell don't stop turning until it bottoms out. Then turn it back 1/4 turn to relax stress on the hose wall.
Milton hose is probably fine for whatever application, its just a barrel style crimp versus the original crimp style. But again, if you have the option to connect the hose with no constant 90 degree strain is on the hose, the hose will last a lot longer.
1. Cut off the current hose end, far enough to get past the failed hose section,
2. Go to a local hydraulic hose shop and replace the old hose end with a "reusable" style hose end
3. Add a 90 degree fitting to take the strain off the hose, so the hose hangs straight down from the connection
If you chose a reusable hose end, be sure to use a water based lube on the insert mandrel to turn it into the shell. Once you start turning the insert into the shell don't stop turning until it bottoms out. Then turn it back 1/4 turn to relax stress on the hose wall.
Milton hose is probably fine for whatever application, its just a barrel style crimp versus the original crimp style. But again, if you have the option to connect the hose with no constant 90 degree strain is on the hose, the hose will last a lot longer.
hans109h
Well-known member
Search Amazon for "hydraulic hose crimper". They range from $80 to $500 or so. The one I bought was around $120. Just make sure it has the hose sizes you want/need. I love when a project allows me to use it!
PWC Repair
Well-known member
I just cut mine back and used a barb to pipe thread adapter held by two stainless oetiker clamps.
that's too easy for GJ. we need to convince him to buy a few thousand dollars in tools , clamps, & fittings to save a $20 hose from landfill
Similar solution done here. Instead of actual Oetiker clamps I think I used a pair of PEX clamps from a big box store and topped it off with adhesive lined heat shrink to reduce the risk of the clamps catching on hand or paint
pelletman
Well-known member
This is what I do
OP
ScaldedDog
Well-known member
To what 90* strain are you referring?
On perhaps a related note, have any of you used the Milton S-659 swivel fittings on the end of a hose that sees a lot of air tool use?
I'm going to try one on this new hose. It seems like it might make using an air tool in tight spaces a little easier.
Mark
scooby074
Well-known member
On high vibration tools I make up a shortish (4-6') whip directly hooked into the tool. This gets the tool into tight places and gets the hose coupler out of the way. Plus it protects the coupler from vibration. I havent tried the fitting pictured. But I do use the common swivels on any tool like grinders that might be in a tight area for maximum flexibility..
PWC Repair
Well-known member
.........Oh yeah, I also now squirt some Mothers VLR protectant on a micro fiber and wipe the hoses down every few months. An ounce of prevention.......
johnre
Well-known member
Good tip, thanks. I have been using a cloth to hold the air hose as I rewind it back into the recoil reel, just so I get the dirt off the surface and don't let it carry into the reel where it grinds away at it. This also protected my hands from injury. I'll adopt my technique to do this as well!
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Wrench97
Well-known member
Best thing you can do for the air line is use a whip hose on the air tool if you want a swivel use a full flow type.
I did remodeling and later ran my own cabinet shop in the 90’s. The air hose we used for 10 years was good year 1/4” with a barbed fitting and a zip tie.
I continuously use that same home in my home shop and it finally gave up the ghost a couple years ago. Cut the fitting off and reinserted the barbed fitting with new zip tie, expect it to outlive me based on past performance.
I continuously use that same home in my home shop and it finally gave up the ghost a couple years ago. Cut the fitting off and reinserted the barbed fitting with new zip tie, expect it to outlive me based on past performance.
6869704X4
Active member
I bought some Goodyear hose from Northern tool maybe a few years ago, not sure. It's held up very well. I just checked and they don't have it now. I wonder if the red Ironton brand is comparable.
andyvh1959
Well-known member
The strain is on the hose carcass, where the constant weight of the hose coming straight out of the connection puts a strain on the hose inner tube and outer jacket, right at the highest stress point fo the hose at the end of shell crimp. A 90 at the hose connection lets the hose hang straight down, reducing the stress on the inner tube and cover. That constant stress, along with heat and ozone aging causes the cover to bcome brittle and crack, and eventually the inner tube will do likewise. When a hose end is crimped onto a hose, the crimp action compresses the hose wall, and even causes a slight bulge of the inner tube at the end of the hose end ******. When a constant stress load is added to the hose, it pulls the outer side of the hose cover and constantly works on that buldge on the inner tube of the hose. Over time one or both will age and fail, just like your picture shown at the start of this thread.
This applies for low pressure hose like an air hose as much as hydraulic hose at 1500, 3000, or 5000 psi and above. Even the hose connecting the clothes washer to the hot and cold house connections. Don't stress the hose by causing the weight of the hose to hang bent at the connection.
This is also why some hoses are made with a strain relief collar that is put on the hose end and onto the hose to spread the strain out into the free length/non-crimped area of the hose.
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Wrench97
Well-known member
I think he said earlier it's on a hose reel.
andyvh1959
Well-known member
Correct, my mistake. The first picture showed the hose condition at the crimp with the quick disconnect end resting on a bench, so the hose was hanging off the end. The failed section of the hose out of the crimp though was indicative of the eventual result of aging and flexing stress at the end of the crimp. A strain relief like the shrink tube applied onto the crimp/clamp area is a great idea.
welder4956
Well-known member
After reading this I halfway expected to see a clip from a axisymetric FEA mesh model to illustrate the stress distribution and peak stress locations.
andyvh1959
Well-known member
I thought about that but figured my wordy reply covered it more than adequately. Sometimes I can't stop typing.
OP
ScaldedDog
Well-known member
I set it down that way for the photo, as it exposed the tear in the outer layer. It normally just hangs from the reel. Even so, your point is well taken. When using a tool, the weight of the hose down to the floor is hanging from the end of the tool, so strain relief is a good idea.
Mark
andyvh1959
Well-known member
When I worked for Dayco, our most common hose failure claim was laundy washer hose attaching the washing machine to the hot and cold water shut off valves. When the washer/dryer was located on the 2nd floor near the bedrooms, if a hose failed quite often it damaged the room and contents below, adding to the claim. Most often the failure was the hot hose connected to the valve with the hose coming 90 degrees off the valve, constantly stressing the hose. Learned long ago to never buy the cheapest washing mahcine hoses.
NHtoolguy
Well-known member
Come on, guys! This is Garage Journal! Buy the double-sided Knipex brand Oetiker crimpers!
scooby074
Well-known member
volleyball
Well-known member
I've used these for decades, they work great