The cabinet housing the lift controls and fluid reservoir was pretty banged up to say the least. Everything "worked" but not as well as it could have. Also visually it needed help.
The access door is hinged with a piano hinge on the right side and is held shut on the left side with fasteners. You can see the tabs (3) on the open door that these fasteners went through. Also the control lever inserts through a hole in the door. That hole was torn open as you can see, which allowed the door to be opened without removing the control lever. It's easy to see how the electric motor was positioned over the hydraulic pump. There is no pneumatic air involved in it's operation.
The control has now been rewired and a new switch installed. New wiring was run all the way to the circuit panel. The control lever was repaired as the end inserting into the housing was damaged and had been jury rigged to work after a fashion. It was a press fit to a roll pin originally and it is that way once more as seen .
Electrically all the control lever does is energize the switch which turns on the pump motor. To lower the lift when the lever is reversed it mechanically opens a valve in the pump which allows the fluid to return back into the reservoir. Also note the access door has been removed. To do the necessary repair work on it using a bench was quite helpful. The only way to remove it meant the welds holding it on had to be ground off and then re welded back on.
Here we were trying the floor tile. 1 Foot square or 2? Straight or diagonal?
I've looked and I don't have any pictures of the repaired door prior to its installation. This is the best I could find with it in primer.
The reservoir filler cap has the Rotary logo on it. Hard to photograph chrome, it just reflects back at the camera! The seam down the middle shows where the reservoir is, taking up the back haft of the cabinet. You can also see the piano hinge and the welds which were ground off to remove the door.
This is how the door was originally attached. The piano hinge was just spot welded down the side of the cabinet. They were installed back just where the originals had been. Same number, same place, same length.
This is the left side. The fasteners I used were ones I fabricated. I used stainless steel bolts, the heads cut off, the shanks then threaded and capped on both ends with stainless washers and acorn nuts. All the stainless was polished to near chrome finish.
Another look at the cap.
The latest patent date on the data plate is July 8,1928. The brass plate and screws were polished and gloss clear coated.
As mentioned earlier Rotary just knows it was manufactured before 1935.......... sometime.
Thomas
I leave to fly a trip and come back to find a slotted screw was used instead of a star headed one and I fly into a rage about what bumbling incompetent help I've got!! 
You know it could work after all.
to all!
