Finishing The A/C Closet Build
Engineering a project that has never been designed before takes thought, creativity, design, motivation, supplies, tools and Math. Yes, the dreaded Math from way back in school! But not only Algebra like I used in the last post by using the Pythagorean Theorem, but real actual math. Like 2+2=4…
And it is helpful to know that a 1x6 is actually closer to 3/4" x 5-1/2”. And it is understood that routing out 1/4" of the 3/4" thickness will definitely not allow for the manufacturer provided #8 x 1” hinge screws to fit in the hinges without problems. But then also the thickness of one side of the hinge, plus 1/2" of wood, still will not let an #8 x 3/4" wood screw fit in the modified 3/4" piece of wood. It’s a math thing… See:
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I put the 1” screws in the bottom before I remembered that math is critical to a good looking project. Then I got the 3/4" screws and got a similar result. But, not knowing exactly what I will have in the cabinet, I figured the 1” screws would hold better and all I needed was a backer to cover the hinge area and to enhance the screw holding ability.
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Then I realized how this actually looks and that, even though it is just a little block of wood, it does take space out of the cabinet width for storage of larger items. Maybe I shouldn’t be concerned, but I have decided to solve the problem with my Craftsman grinder… Those 3/4” long screws aren’t anymore…
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The bottom is the unmodified, full-length 3/4” screw and the others will now pass my approval for installation. My rationalization for this thought is that the point of the screw is only used for driving the screw in. It really does not have any holding strength for pull-out where the screw tapers. That, and the fact that there are 4 hinges with 4 screws per hinge for a total of 16 screws used for holding up the cabinet. That should work.
Now that the cabinet was framed together, the next was to cut the plywood for the face panel and the sliding side panel. Since I do not own a table saw, I improvise with my Floor Saw! This is standard procedure for cutting plywood here. Just gotta remember to have 2x spacers on the floor and the saw blade depth less than the spacer height. No problems so far and no damage to the RaceDeck yet.
Cutting to the correct width…
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…then rotate and trim off the end.
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With the shelves still mounted (with only 2 of the 4 hinges…) I measured where the face panel will be mounted in relation to the hinges
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Then used a jigsaw to remove a notch for the hinges. This will allow the face panel to be pushed further to the left to cover the gap at the back of the unit to the anchor frame.
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I set the plywood face down and set the shelves on it, making sure the hinges fit well. With the shelves in place, I used a pencil and traced the outline of the shelves onto the plywood. I didn’t get a picture, but the reason for this was to locate and drill pilot holes for the screws in the center of each shelf. This assures a direct hit when I screw in from the opposite side.
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I turned the shelves over, put wood glue on each shelf, set the plywood in place and aligned with the hinges, countersunk and then installed all the screws into each shelf. FYI, I just used 2” coarse thread drywall screws.
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Done! (Picture taken as I watched the glue dry. Exciting, isn’t it?)
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Now I need to shift focus to get the sliding side panel installed now that it has been cut to size. The problem is that all my spare Teflon sliders are 3/4" diameter and the groove I routed in the bottom frame is only 1/2" wide. I put a few of the sliders in my generic no-name vice. A couple minutes with the 80-grit sanding block…
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…and edges were flat. Flipped them over and did the other side. I can’t tell if this picture shows this side or the other side, but they both got flattened!
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I drilled pilot holes about 3” apart and installed a total of 11 sliders
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Since I didn’t measure each slider to make sure they were all exactly the same thickness, I also cut the back corner of the sliding panel a little to help it slide over any uneven sliders.
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Then it was very easy to slide the panel into the groove.
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Installed the front frame piece and screwed it in place and Mrs. Wingnut helped hold it in place as I installed the shelving unit, one difficult screw at a time…
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Before you ask, Yes, I realize I could have run the shelves much higher. But I’d never be able to reach anything without a ladder. And, I have plans for that upper section that is actually much deeper for more storage. (
shopnut does have an influence on people for creative storage ideas…)
It was only after mounting the door then that I realized that something was off just a little… the cabinet rubbed the side panel and would not close! Could have been all the weight of the shelves with door face panel… Could have been that measurements were taken with using only 2 screws in each of only 2 hinges for the mock-up… Mrs. W started to guesstimate where the problem was when a daughter came out to the garage. I suggested they both go in and solve the younger’s problem. When she came back, the door closed perfectly. But it wanted to stay opened a couple inches, probably due to the 1/4” depth that I set the hinges instead of a little less depth.
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No problem… I had a couple of these left over from not needing them on the paint cabinet. Only one was needed to secure the empty cabinet shut. I may need to install another at the top when it is loaded.
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Then the cabinet closed and stayed shut.
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Here is how the hinge cut-out turned out. And it conceals the gap that could have been there.
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Last night I was able to get a coat of paint it. And this really makes me realize I need to paint the A/C duct as well.
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The only thing I have left to install is a threaded insert for the removable front piece for the sliding side panel. I want a metal-to-metal anchor instead of just a drywall screw and hoping it hits the same hole every time.
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So, the cabinet is almost completed. (Heres a
Red Leader To-Do List..) Items left To-Do include:
- Finish sanding and painting several more coats
- Have a cold one and watch the paint dry
- Install a furring strip across the face to hold the items onto the shelves when the door is opened.
- Complete the upper storage idea I have for over the top of the air handler unit
- Fill the cabinet with stuff.
Not sure when I will get a break from Life to be able to complete these items, but I will keep you posted as I continue my work.
Thanks for riding along on this project. Just another adventure in the Salt Life Hideout!