Saylor-Beall Rebuild

[9GUY9]

Not sure where you've searched for parts, but you might call Ken from Air-Flo Inc @ 1-800-845-0125.

http://www.airfloinc.com/item/1042

I would highly recommend Ken as well. I got the parts for my import saylor bell from him. He was very helpful and his prices were better than anyone else.

 

[jonathan75]

I would highly recommend Ken as well. I got the parts for my import saylor bell from him. He was very helpful and his prices were better than anyone else.

I called but didn't leave a message. But I will try to call again later.

 

[jonathan75]

A special thanks to Kish Specialty Coatings. They sent me a color sample of the paint they make for Saylor Beall. Now I can get it color matched locally. I think I need to get two types of paint made, one for the pump and one for the tank. Does anyone know how warm the pump gets? Do I need to use engine paint?

As for the stickers I hope Saylor Beall can provide replacements. They never replied me yet.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Can you order the stickers from the parts diagram? On my Champion, all the safety notices and warnings are packaged in a part number. I don't know if that has the Champion logo included.

Could the folks who provided the sample paint chip give you advice on what paint? Or better yet, sell you a couple quarts?

 

[jonathan75]

Can you order the stickers from the parts diagram? On my Champion, all the safety notices and warnings are packaged in a part number. I don't know if that has the Champion logo included.

Could the folks who provided the sample paint chip give you advice on what paint? Or better yet, sell you a couple quarts?

I can't find any part number for the stickers. It is not shown in the diagram also.

When I asked Kish about paint for the pump they said they don't provide it. I guess they only give Saylor Beall the tank paint. It could be a misunderstanding but that is what I was told. Maybe Saylor Beall uses the same paint for both. But I don't think they provide paint to the public and only to the manufacture. The color could be like a trademark and they are not allowed to provide it directly.

 

[metal4130]

Looks like you got quite a bit done. Once you put down your purse and hit it like a man it poped right off . Kind of a crude way to disassemble but without an extensive array of pullers and port-a-powers thats the only way how. When you go to remove the crankshaft you will have to remove the unloader assembly so just remember it is left hand thread.

I have never had a crank welded and ground but it would be something to look into as I'm just guessing but I bet a new one from SB is $400+ big ones. The crank journals are small so it might be better to have it welded up then ground down.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Subscribed!

This has turned into an all out quest!

 

[plow]

Subscribed!

This has turned into an all out quest!

Damn Skippy!


Johnny, You are my hero! Keep up the good work and don't ever give up. I dig your tenacity

 

[EOC_Jason]

Now that you have the compressor, I think it's safe to put your location in your profile. You never know a fellow GJ member might be close and can help you out.

 

[rodm1]

Do you have a service Manuel with torque settings?

This is the paint code for the current blue color. I've had no luck matching it I believe its a custom blend.
RAABE 6524 Blue Metallic Paint

 

[EOC_Jason]

Looking at the tanks/pumps on the Saylor Beall website, they look the same color to me?

 

[jonathan75]

Looks like you got quite a bit done. Once you put down your purse and hit it like a man it poped right off . Kind of a crude way to disassemble but without an extensive array of pullers and port-a-powers thats the only way how. When you go to remove the crankshaft you will have to remove the unloader assembly so just remember it is left hand thread.

I have never had a crank welded and ground but it would be something to look into as I'm just guessing but I bet a new one from SB is $400+ big ones. The crank journals are small so it might be better to have it welded up then ground down.

I was a little bit apprehensive about hitting it so hard. Due to my lack of experience working on such large and heavy equipment. I don't know how much it can take without causing damage. I work on more delicate things such as robots that requires more finesse. This is a good first engine type rebuild for me so I should take a lot away from this.

Thank you for the reminder about the unloader. It was fun just like everything else on this pump. Everything is a challenge.

You are right when it comes to the price. It is $416 for a new Crankshaft! Tomorrow I will take it to a machine shop on my way to work to see what they can do.

Subscribed!

This has turned into an all out quest!

Damn Skippy!


Johnny, You are my hero! Keep up the good work and don't ever give up. I dig your tenacity

Thank you both for your support and enthusiasm. I hope that this experience may create a good guide that can assist others in the future.

Do you have a service Manuel with torque settings?

This is the paint code for the current blue color. I've had no luck matching it I believe it a custom blend.
RAABE 6524 Blue Metallic Paint

Here is a link to the manual with the torques specs.
http://www.saylor-beall.com/images/manuals/700SeriesManual.pdf

I wonder where the paint code originated from? Because I saw other references online to the same paint code. I will take that code and my color sample to the local Sherman Williams Auto Paint Center and see what they say.

Looking at the tanks/pumps on the Saylor Beall website, they look the same color to me?

Yes they do look the same. That is some paint I can tell you. Because I burned it with a torch and it seemed to have little effect.

 

[trbomax]

A special thanks to Kish Specialty Coatings. They sent me a color sample of the paint they make for Saylor Beall. Now I can get it color matched locally. I think I need to get two types of paint made, one for the pump and one for the tank. Does anyone know how warm the pump gets? Do I need to use engine paint?

As for the stickers I hope Saylor Beall can provide replacements. They never replied me yet.

I'm going to my local SB service/dealer tomorrow to get decals and some other stuff,he has a gal of genuine SB paint he will sell.He offered it to me,but I intermixed my own.

 

[jonathan75]

As you can see from the pictures this will be close. I can get down to 1.549 since Air-Flo did find a source for over-sized bearings. So I can go 20 under! The one crankshaft journal on the left is very worn down and is at just about the minimum. But I don't trust my caliper so I will wait for the machine shop to make a recommendation.

The third picture you can see I am prepping to remove the centrifugal unloader.

 

[jonathan75]

I'm going to my local SB service/dealer tomorrow to get decals and some other stuff,he has a gal of genuine SB paint he will sell.He offered it to me,but I intermixed my own.

Did they say how much the decals would be? I am still trying to get price and availability of the decals. I need the serial number stickers as well but I think they would need to custom make those.

 

[trbomax]

Did they say how much the decals would be? I am still trying to get price and availability of the decals. I need the serial number stickers as well but I think they would need to custom make those.

I didnt ask how much,just told them I wanted them.If they are overpriced,im going to scan them so I can make more.

 

[jonathan75]

I didnt ask how much,just told them I wanted them.If they are overpriced,im going to scan them so I can make more.

I always wondered what people that restore antiques do. How do they get decals made for companies long out of business? There must be a way of getting them made from a picture with a graphic designer making it in the computer.

 

[jonathan75]

Photo 1: Easier said then done but the crankshaft and centrifuge unloader is out. The back plate was not budging so I kept hitting the crankshaft from the front. I was trying to be gentle because I did not know how much the bearings could take. In the end it was starting to upset me so I hit harder which did the trick.

Photo 2: I was going to take off the bearings but it gave me a lot of resistance. So I figured I would have the machine shop do it. Good thing I stopped because when I called Air-Flo today they said not to remove them.

Photo 3: Centrifugal unloader is off. I had to take it apart because I could not get the pliers around the shaft with them on and I didn't want to do damage.

Photo 4: Here is the shim assy for the bearing cups.

Photo 5: Looks smooth, I just hope it didn't move at all when I got the crankshaft out. It seems very tight like every thing else on this pump but it still concerns me because if it is off it may cause a wobble or some other issue.

Photo 6 and 7: Tomorrow I will take the crankshaft to a machine shop and see if they can fix it for me.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I always wondered what people that restore antiques do. How do they get decals made for companies long out of business? There must be a way of getting them made from a picture with a graphic designer making it in the computer.

Yeah, most of the time you just have to search for what little bit of an image you can, then work with it in Photoshop to clean it up and fill in the missing parts. Many of the people that specialize in it know how the designs should look from certain era's, so even if part of a logo is missing they can usually get reasonably close.

 

[trbomax]

I always wondered what people that restore antiques do. How do they get decals made for companies long out of business? There must be a way of getting them made from a picture with a graphic designer making it in the computer.

Lve got a friend over in Frederic that has a plotter and is really good at restoreing images.He has already done a "weaver" logo, some old yamaha and some Sno-jet graphics for me from a pic . I take a digital pic with a ruler under and alongside it,burn it on a disk,and give it to him.

 

[trbomax]

I'm going to my local SB service/dealer tomorrow to get decals and some other stuff,he has a gal of genuine SB paint he will sell.He offered it to me,but I intermixed my own.

I got the graphics, along with some other stuff I needed to finish up the compresser.The guy was realy nice and we talked about how much air I should expect from a 705,then his wife totaled up my bill. I paid her and when I looked at the bill I noticed that she had not included the graphics. I ask her about it and her reply was " Thats OK,just take them,we use them on all our refurbished units and saylor beall just sends them as we need them". I couldnt believe that in 2013 there are still people nice enough to do things like that.Its just her and her husband and they have a shop behind thier house. She just smiled and said" youll probably be back for something else" I thanked her and left,still not believeing what just happened!

 

[EOC_Jason]

Nice story trbomax... Yeah one of my dreams is to get a 707 and put a 5 HP or 7.5 HP motor on it... Last pump I would ever buy...

 

[trbomax]

here they are,along with a plug from the people that got them for me.If you live in northern mi (traverse city area) and need saylor beall parts,these people deserve your business.

 

[jonathan75]

here they are,along with a plug from the people that got them for me.If you live in northern mi (traverse city area) and need saylor beall parts,these people deserve your business.

That is great they didn't charge you. I got a quote today for the big Saylor Beall sticker for $7.65 the serial number for $2.40 and Made in USA for $2.10. Would you mind to measure the sticker for me? I am curious as to how large it is. Because the one on my tank looks huge.

It is too bad they got rid of the crown in the logo. I thought it looked cool and classic. My current factory sticker has the crown.

 

[trbomax]

They are about 11" across. If you still want one pm me w/ the adress.

 

[jonathan75]

They are about 11" across. If you still want one pm me w/ the adress.

Thank you, that is very kind of you. I will measure after I finish resizing my update pictures. The tank is one of the few things that is not at the machine shop right now.

Can you tell me more about painting. If I get the gallon what is the best way for me to spray it. I have limited experience with spray painting and I don't have a working compressor right now. Do you have any recommendations? Should I still get the gallon or get color matched shaker cans local?

 

[jonathan75]

Here are some update pictures.

 

[jonathan75]

The paint sample looks a lot brighter then my tank color. I wonder if it is just age or they changed the color?

 

[jonathan75]

I tried different angles to see any color changes. You can see the one spot I cleaned up. What I plan to do is roll it around to the side of my garage and pressure wash it.

Organizing and review of parts. Getting ready for the machine shop. I will give them everything but the valves and bolts to clean up.

 

[jonathan75]

The table is mostly empty now. Everything should be ready to pick up from the machine shop tomorrow.

 

[jonathan75]

Last set for the night. I am excited to see how everything cleans up when I get the parts back tomorrow. The crank is being turned, the jugs honed and the parts cleaned. The valves I will clean myself so I am still trying to figure out what I will clean them with. They have a lot of build up.

 

[trbomax]

Thank you, that is very kind of you. I will measure after I finish resizing my update pictures. The tank is one of the few things that is not at the machine shop right now.

Can you tell me more about painting. If I get the gallon what is the best way for me to spray it. I have limited experience with spray painting and I don't have a working compressor right now. Do you have any recommendations? Should I still get the gallon or get color matched shaker cans local?

If you are going to spray it you need another compresser. I have 2 running now,this SB is going to be staged in with them,but anyway, I used my hvlp.Its going to take 30 shaker cans,not very practical. You could roll it,I did my propane pig 2 yrs ago,blasted it and rolled it with rustoleum,brush in the spots you cant roll.On the pump,3 rattle cans will probably be enough.

 

[jonathan75]

If you are going to spray it you need another compresser. I have 2 running now,this SB is going to be staged in with them,but anyway, I used my hvlp.Its going to take 30 shaker cans,not very practical. You could roll it,I did my propane pig 2 yrs ago,blasted it and rolled it with rustoleum,brush in the spots you cant roll.On the pump,3 rattle cans will probably be enough.

Can I build a time machine in my garage and bring back my compressor from the future to paint it or would that create a temporal causality loop? I do have a small pancake compressor but I don't think I can paint with that.

I will need to do some more checking. But I imagine I would need to thin the paint down to spray it as well.

Here is a picture of my current logo with a standard piece of paper so it is just a little longer then 11 inches.

 

[trbomax]

Can I build a time machine in my garage and bring back my compressor from the future to paint it or would that create a temporal causality loop? I do have a small pancake compressor but I don't think I can paint with that.

I will need to do some more checking. But I imagine I would need to thin the paint down to spray it as well.

Here is a picture of my current logo with a standard piece of paper so it is just a little longer then 11 inches.

Looks the same to me....

 

[jonathan75]

Looks the same to me....

Your couch looks the same as mine as well.

The logo is so nice and shinny! With new stickers and paint our compressors will look like new. Do you have any pictures of your project?

 

[Blacklisted]

Thank you, that is very kind of you. I will measure after I finish resizing my update pictures. The tank is one of the few things that is not at the machine shop right now.

Can you tell me more about painting. If I get the gallon what is the best way for me to spray it. I have limited experience with spray painting and I don't have a working compressor right now. Do you have any recommendations? Should I still get the gallon or get color matched shaker cans local?

If you talk to your local auto paint store they might be able to mix paint and put it in rattle cans for you, I know they do it here. It will take alot of cans and probably would be cheaper to just take it to a body shop when it's prepped and have them spray it for you.

 

[mayday0017]

From the paint you have exposed the unit doesn't look scratched up, the sticker doesn't look like it is pealing or all nicked up...

I would take care when I pressure wash not to spray any stickers. Honestly I would roll it out back, soak it down with some purple power or simple green real good, use a microfiber towel or soft brush to agitate it rinse, and repeat.

Don't repaint everything unless it is really that bad, original paint and stickers on old stuff is way more cool then new paint and new stickers. Honestly all the oil all over it currently is a blessing because it has preserved everything well from what I can see.

I say clean everything really really good, and maybe paint only the pump. Also if you have automotive paint mixed figure out a way to bring a part with good factory paint on it even if that means loading up the whole tank and bringing it with you. Any person good a mixing paint can match that paint perfect with out the need of a sample or anything. That way your newly rebuilt pump will look like it was never repainted....

One more thing, if you do end up repainting which it is yours so that's up to you. Please don't use rattle cans, rattle can paint is not very good quality it won't last and will be more crappy looking then the paint that is on it. Go to an auto paint supplier and get it mixed, there are cheap lines out there like Nason that are still very good quality paints. If you take my advise and just paint the pump, you can have them mix the paint and put it in spray cans or buy refillable spray cans online, but for large objects such as the tank they won't work very well because the paint will flash to quickly.

Wow my short comment turned into a book, maybe I feel stronger about all of this then I thought

Edit: Also if you do have minor scratches on the tank you could polish them out most likely keeping it original but look new just take your time so you don't wear through the paint.

 

[trbomax]

Heres one of the pump,I mixed and matched the paint myself. I will put up more next week,gotta hit the road now.

 

[EOC_Jason]

^^^ I have to agree... Try cleaning the tank off first and see how it looks, from the spots you cleaned it looks almost brand new. A little age gives it character, so long as there aren't any rust spots.

If you pressure wash it, like mayday said, be careful around the stickers. I would also recommend just use some simple green and wipe clean around the stickers.

I pulled my dad's old Quincy out from under his workbench last year, it was probably sitting there for 30+ years and was covered with so much gunk I couldn't tell what color it was. After pressure washing the whole thing the tank and pump looked brand spanking new. Only casualty was the stickers broke up into little pieces. But since you can't see them anyhow under the workbench not a big deal. Also got its first oil & belt change in 30+ years... lol... Thank god it was a pressure lube model, still had some oil in it.... One of these days I'm going to give it a complete rebuild.... It's on my to-do list...

 

[Burgerkong]

Personally I'd take some Goo-Gone to the sticker and dissolve the adhesive, then scan it in high resolution and restore the original decal,. Pretty simple, hell you could even do it on paint.NET, don't even need Photoshop. I restore my CD covers that way when I rip them all to digital.