pinaplebob741
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Scale Model Dozer Ride On For My Son
- Thread starter dozerbuilder01
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dozerbuilder01
Well-known member
Ha! I don't know. I'll have to ask someone else.
I have another update and then I'm takin tomorrow off to smoke some pork and relax.
I finished the grill. It took longer than I expected and started getting frustrated but I got it.
Made the top bar for the grill slats.
Gave it a little chamfer too.
On to the bottom pieces. These were a PITA. I still don't like them but I'm keeping them.
I know I shouldn't cut multiple pieces this way especially raw material. One piece is always thinner than the others. But I did it anyways. Sure enough on the second pass, one grabbed. I was able to save the piece though but the bit didn't make it.
I stopped taking pictures because I just wanted to get them done. You'll see them in other pictures.
I made a tool for to grill slats a while ago. You can see it in more detail in an earlier post.
Welded in the frame and top bar.
Finished product.
Now it's time to relax and clean up the garage a bit. It's a damn mess in there.
HOTFR8
Banned
Looks Impressive.
rslaback
Well-known member
One thing I didn't see in the design so far and didn't know if you though about. Do you have any type of clutch mechanism on the drive belt from the engine to the transmissions? I wouldn't bet the starter on that 12.5 hp is going to want to spin those two hydro pumps very well.
You could probably get by with an electric pto off a rider if you wanted to keep the look without a pedal.
You could probably get by with an electric pto off a rider if you wanted to keep the look without a pedal.
Zeke
Well-known member
Just found this thread. That is an awesome project and a tremendous amount of work. You have some fabulous fabricating skills and are an excellent welder, in spite of what you say!
Now, I think I'll go bend up another pot stand and cry a little.
Now, I think I'll go bend up another pot stand and cry a little.
PCO6
Well-known member
My experience tells me that there's very little that doesn't.
I'm really enjoying your build!
OP
dozerbuilder01
Well-known member
My experience tells me that there's very little that doesn't.
I'm really enjoying your build!
That is true. Having done the CAD model first though has made most things go a lot smoother. But the grill wasn't completely modeled.
Thank you. I do projects like this to learn. I've never taken classes and it isn't a part of my daily job. However, my brother is a boilermaker so he teaches me what I need to know. And then practice practice practice.
I do have a clutch from the parts mower. It was for the blades. But I don't think I'll have a problem. When in neutral, the bypass valves should be wide open. Shouldn't be must resistance. I plan to hook up the lines soon and check everything out.
Thank you.
Ok, so I have a question for everyone watching this build. As mentioned, I have a good stash of 14 gauge steel. I've been using to make all of my body panels. I'll be moving on to the step sides soon and I was going to give it a 1" lip like this.
I had planned to cut the pattern 1" bigger then sandwich the sheet between some plywood. Then I'd use a cutoff wheel to give a relief cut on the backside. Then start hitting it with a hammer. The straight sections would probably be fine but I don't think I can shrink the corner enough. I was going with a 1.5 in radius corner. Then I'd put some tack welds on the inside corner once done. I was going to do a test piece but now I have another idea.
Since I built that really nice 1/2" tubing bender, I thought I could make a frame out of that. Then I'd use rivets to attach the sheet to the tube. Something like this.
What do you think? Little different than the model but I'm not trying to copy it exactly anyways.
Machine Punk, need your help on this one if you're reading this. I'll be going into a blind hole. I like the look of solid rivets with a smooth dome but I'm guessing I can't get around using blind hole rivets that still show the center stud hole. Maybe I'm just being too picky.
1320stang
Well-known member
What about a 1x1/2 angle, slit the 1/2 for the radius and weld the 14ga. to the angle.
HOTFR8
Banned
I gather you are working from a base being a zero turn mower so the clutch would have been for the cutting blades and like an Automotive Air Conditioner clutch therefore you will not need the clutch unless you need to drive something else.
rslaback
Well-known member
I would still throw the clutch on anyway. Even with the bypass valves the fluid still gets moved. If that fluid ever is cold (think January, pushing snow maybe) it might be needed. The starter gear in that briggs is plastic and every application I have ever seen them used in (including my Yardman zero turn) had a clutch pedal to disengage the drive belt. To make it completely not noticeable you could always go with a centrifugal clutch with a weakened spring.
you might try looking at this thread and in particular his homemade visegrip tool for shrinking stretching. Im not at all familiar with metal work like this, but MP&C knows this stuff and he might be able to give a few pointers on forming that corner.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149532
He showed how to make the tool in a previous thread but I dont have it saved. Its basically a couple of bolts welded to the jaw. 2 on bottom, 1 on top
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149532
He showed how to make the tool in a previous thread but I dont have it saved. Its basically a couple of bolts welded to the jaw. 2 on bottom, 1 on top
machine_punk
Well-known member
Even on an airplane, you cannot always use solid rivets...since you cannot always avoid blind holes. I've always like the look of a line of either solid rivets or pop rivets.
I usually work in aluminum, but you can get steel solid rivets too. I'm pretty sure that the hardened aluminum rivets I work with would be strong enough for your application, but I'm not sure I would mix rivet and steel construction (something about galvanic action and the different metals set up a small electric charge and erode each other away fairly quickly). Even if you were going to use aluminum blind (pop) rivets, I'd consider coating them with primer, before sticking them in the holes.
That said, if you were set on the solid rivet/domed head look for this piece of the dozer, you could used the 5-22 size rivet (5/32" diameter shank, with 1-3/8" long grip length. Your tubing will be 1 inch thick. With two layers of 14 gauge steel, that brings the total thickness to 1.149". You would need 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet shaft to form the shop head (5/32" x 1.5 = 7.5/32 = 0.234") 1.375" long rivet minus 1.149" material width = 0.226"...which is likely close enough, in this non-demanding, non-structural application. You would want the center line of your row of rivets to be at least 5/16" away from the edge of the material. You would want your rivets to be equally spaced in a row, with between 5/8" and 3/4" space from rivet center to rivet center.
The spacing of blind rivets could be a little further apart. You could put a dab of silicone or JB Weld in each rivet head...it would look solid, once it was painted.
There's a lot to learn...and some specialized equipment for placing solid rivets. If you were anywhere near the Bay Area, I'd say come on by The Aerodrome Studio, and I'd get you fixed up in an afternoon of work.
What would I do in your place? With your mad welding skills, I'd drill a line of holes and plug weld that sheet metal to whatever steel frame you build. (Make sure you put extra frame where feet are likely to land...even 14 gauge can be deformed by standing on it).
I know you are trying to build this with materials you have, but what about welding a 1/4" steel plate to the top of your frame and pop riveting a 14 gauge sheet to the bottom?
Anyway, please let me know if you need any more info about solid rivets (or if you need clarification of the above...I have a table of this information on another computer, so I had to re-calculate on-the-fly for this post).
M_P
I usually work in aluminum, but you can get steel solid rivets too. I'm pretty sure that the hardened aluminum rivets I work with would be strong enough for your application, but I'm not sure I would mix rivet and steel construction (something about galvanic action and the different metals set up a small electric charge and erode each other away fairly quickly). Even if you were going to use aluminum blind (pop) rivets, I'd consider coating them with primer, before sticking them in the holes.
That said, if you were set on the solid rivet/domed head look for this piece of the dozer, you could used the 5-22 size rivet (5/32" diameter shank, with 1-3/8" long grip length. Your tubing will be 1 inch thick. With two layers of 14 gauge steel, that brings the total thickness to 1.149". You would need 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet shaft to form the shop head (5/32" x 1.5 = 7.5/32 = 0.234") 1.375" long rivet minus 1.149" material width = 0.226"...which is likely close enough, in this non-demanding, non-structural application. You would want the center line of your row of rivets to be at least 5/16" away from the edge of the material. You would want your rivets to be equally spaced in a row, with between 5/8" and 3/4" space from rivet center to rivet center.
The spacing of blind rivets could be a little further apart. You could put a dab of silicone or JB Weld in each rivet head...it would look solid, once it was painted.
There's a lot to learn...and some specialized equipment for placing solid rivets. If you were anywhere near the Bay Area, I'd say come on by The Aerodrome Studio, and I'd get you fixed up in an afternoon of work.
What would I do in your place? With your mad welding skills, I'd drill a line of holes and plug weld that sheet metal to whatever steel frame you build. (Make sure you put extra frame where feet are likely to land...even 14 gauge can be deformed by standing on it).
I know you are trying to build this with materials you have, but what about welding a 1/4" steel plate to the top of your frame and pop riveting a 14 gauge sheet to the bottom?
Anyway, please let me know if you need any more info about solid rivets (or if you need clarification of the above...I have a table of this information on another computer, so I had to re-calculate on-the-fly for this post).
M_P
Lippyp
Well-known member
I'd be tempted to make the top out of tread plate for some grip getting in and out.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
That is true. Having done the CAD model first though has made most things go a lot smoother. But the grill wasn't completely modeled.
Thank you. I do projects like this to learn. I've never taken classes and it isn't a part of my daily job. However, my brother is a boilermaker so he teaches me what I need to know. And then practice practice practice.
I do have a clutch from the parts mower. It was for the blades. But I don't think I'll have a problem. When in neutral, the bypass valves should be wide open. Shouldn't be must resistance. I plan to hook up the lines soon and check everything out.
Thank you.
Ok, so I have a question for everyone watching this build. As mentioned, I have a good stash of 14 gauge steel. I've been using to make all of my body panels. I'll be moving on to the step sides soon and I was going to give it a 1" lip like this.
I had planned to cut the pattern 1" bigger then sandwich the sheet between some plywood. Then I'd use a cutoff wheel to give a relief cut on the backside. Then start hitting it with a hammer. The straight sections would probably be fine but I don't think I can shrink the corner enough. I was going with a 1.5 in radius corner. Then I'd put some tack welds on the inside corner once done. I was going to do a test piece but now I have another idea.
Since I built that really nice 1/2" tubing bender, I thought I could make a frame out of that. Then I'd use rivets to attach the sheet to the tube. Something like this.
What do you think? Little different than the model but I'm not trying to copy it exactly anyways.
Machine Punk, need your help on this one if you're reading this. I'll be going into a blind hole. I like the look of solid rivets with a smooth dome but I'm guessing I can't get around using blind hole rivets that still show the center stud hole. Maybe I'm just being too picky.
Drive screws. You can get them in all different sizes. They are made for blind holes. Once they are installed, they aren't coming out.
racingtadpole
Well-known member
Roll up a strip of 14g and weld it in where you need the radius.
xtremek
Well-known member
I'd make the edging out of angle. Pie (relief) cut and weld it back up then weld on some tread plate. You could do it the way you originally suggested and weld up the relief cuts. I do it on 20ga. steel with my 110v MIG all the time, it just takes forever trying to keep it from warping.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Dozer.... I ran across this http://www.haggleme.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=1546&category_id=155 Maybe you want to compare notes with him.
Since I built that really nice 1/2" tubing bender, I thought I could make a frame out of that. Then I'd use rivets to attach the sheet to the tube. Something like this.
What do you think? Little different than the model but I'm not trying to copy it exactly anyways.
Machine Punk, need your help on this one if you're reading this. I'll be going into a blind hole. I like the look of solid rivets with a smooth dome but I'm guessing I can't get around using blind hole rivets that still show the center stud hole. Maybe I'm just being too picky.
Can't see the pics from here, corp firewall and such.
But for attaching two blind 'layers' together without blind rivets (aka pop-rivets) I'd probably go for welding.
It is made of steel and you apparently do have a welder, eh?
If the two layers completely 'overlap' one another (no 'edge'), then you can possibly do a burn-through weld.
Or do a variant of a 'spot-weld' by putting a hole in the top layer and then do a rosette weld. If you are pretty consistent with the rosette 'dome', they can look an awful lot like a rivet head. Don't want the weld protruding above the surface, then just grind it all flat.
Or use steel pop-rivets and then do a mostly-cosmetic weld over the top to give a solid head. Although I'd probably just do a rosette weld and skip the rivets all together.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Thats what drive screws are for. Two pieces you want to put together with a blind hole in the bottom
OP
dozerbuilder01
Well-known member
Thanks for all of the replies. Especially the very detailed one from Machine Punk. I have a lot to think about and I'm going to take a little time to experiment with a few things.
In the meantime, I'm going to switch over to something else. I want to get it running. Since the transmissions are used and replacement parts seem to be non-existent, I want to try them out. I did before I took the mower apart but I want to see them run again. I still have the tires and I'll just put a caster on front or something. I need to start looking for spares just in case I need a part in the future. I shouldn't have been so cheap and just spent a few hundred more on new ones from the surplus center. Oh well. I'm in it now so there's no turning back.
In the meantime, I'm going to switch over to something else. I want to get it running. Since the transmissions are used and replacement parts seem to be non-existent, I want to try them out. I did before I took the mower apart but I want to see them run again. I still have the tires and I'll just put a caster on front or something. I need to start looking for spares just in case I need a part in the future. I shouldn't have been so cheap and just spent a few hundred more on new ones from the surplus center. Oh well. I'm in it now so there's no turning back.
HOTFR8
Banned
Love the new Avatar
Never look back on a good project, Ok in hindsight we all see things we would now do differently but if you keep trying to change or upgrade you will never finish. Patiently waiting to see how it turns out even as you have stated on wheels and with a castor up front.
Never look back on a good project, Ok in hindsight we all see things we would now do differently but if you keep trying to change or upgrade you will never finish. Patiently waiting to see how it turns out even as you have stated on wheels and with a castor up front.
OP
dozerbuilder01
Well-known member
Took some time off to straighten up the garage. And since this is a garage forum, I figured I'd showcase my garage a bit.
It's 20'x21'. It was bare with one outlet and one light when I moved in. Luckily the walls and garage door were insulated. I just had to do the roof when I installed the heater.
This is my side of the garage. The wife still has to park on the other side.
Cincinnati Toolmaster milling machine with X and Y powerfeeds. Variable speed head and quill feed. And coolant system.
12x26 Craftsman lathe. Worn pretty bad but I work around that. It was good to learn on. A new lathe is in the distant future.
Millermatic 180 mig and Diversion 165 tig welder. Home built table.
Sam's club special toolbox.
26 gallon Craftsman air compressor.
Harborfreight special bandsaw I got at an auction for $65. Home built coolant system.
Other typical tools. Too many to list. Never have enough.
The other side.
My Jack Olsen inspired storage. Sad part is, my cabinets probably cost as much as he got Strongholds for. Oh well. Torch setup (home built cart) and Harborfreight press.
Harborfreight sandblast cabinet and the home of the dozer while it's being built.
Still gotta figure some things out. It's not done (is it ever?) but most of my time has been going to the dozer.
It's 20'x21'. It was bare with one outlet and one light when I moved in. Luckily the walls and garage door were insulated. I just had to do the roof when I installed the heater.
This is my side of the garage. The wife still has to park on the other side.
Cincinnati Toolmaster milling machine with X and Y powerfeeds. Variable speed head and quill feed. And coolant system.
12x26 Craftsman lathe. Worn pretty bad but I work around that. It was good to learn on. A new lathe is in the distant future.
Millermatic 180 mig and Diversion 165 tig welder. Home built table.
Sam's club special toolbox.
26 gallon Craftsman air compressor.
Harborfreight special bandsaw I got at an auction for $65. Home built coolant system.
Other typical tools. Too many to list. Never have enough.
The other side.
My Jack Olsen inspired storage. Sad part is, my cabinets probably cost as much as he got Strongholds for. Oh well. Torch setup (home built cart) and Harborfreight press.
Harborfreight sandblast cabinet and the home of the dozer while it's being built.
Still gotta figure some things out. It's not done (is it ever?) but most of my time has been going to the dozer.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
That mill looks almost new !
I love the chain table stand !
I love the chain table stand !
xtremek
Well-known member
Looks awesome. A lot going on in there.
89GLH
Well-known member
Can someone rehost the photos? Photobucket "bandwidth exceeded."
OP
dozerbuilder01
Well-known member
Fixed it. Had to upgrade to a pro account. I just post too many photos for the free account.
I void warranties
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2011
- Messages
- 605
love the build... you need to upgrade your fire extinguisher collection.. i seem to have missed them in the pictures?
automobiliben
Well-known member
Awesome project!
sam03
Well-known member
holy **** that's some amazing work dude!
82_454_shorty
Well-known member
This project really takes me back to my childhood.
My dad built me a small tractor using the drivetrain from an old cement buggy. We painted it Caterpiller yellow and called it My D9
My dad built me a small tractor using the drivetrain from an old cement buggy. We painted it Caterpiller yellow and called it My D9
mscribellito
Well-known member
I enjoyed looking at this thread. Excellent plans and execution. It looks great and I'm sure he's gonna love it!
OP
dozerbuilder01
Well-known member
There is one on the wall by the door. And two more in the laundry room which is on the other side of the door. I could probably use a few more.
I just rented one of those. Thought about keepin it....
So, a small update. Been busy around the house. Added a front porch at the wife's request. And since I was at it, I added a driveway spur to park my jeep without having to shuffle cars all around in the morning. And since I was getting a load of concrete, I added a pad out back for a bigger shed.
Managed to do a little bit on the dozer though.
The hoods that I've made so far just aren't makin me happy. I was getting close but I was having a hard time making it out of one piece. So I split the best one I had and did one side at a time.
To get that crown that I am looking for, I had to use ratchet straps to do it. It worked out alright.
The bar clamps helped line everything up while I drilled holes. The grill and tank have flanges that the hood will mount to.
To keep the crown, I added braces. They were eventually welded together with another filler piece.
Lines up much better now.
And I'll tack weld the two pieces together and hopefully not warp too much. Still going to have to do a little bit of bodywork. But I think I can live with this one.
And I also broke down and bought the diecast model of a twenty two.
That is all for now. Should pick up once these temps get back to normal around here.
Last edited:
5lima30
Well-known member
Neat project! I know I'm dating myself, but back in the late 60's-early 70's there was an article in Mechanics Illustrated on how to build a mini-dozer out of a garden tractor.
fury9
Well-known member
Nice Work!! That's about all I can say!
darkk
Well-known member
Nice shop!
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Now that die cast twenty two is just so darn cute! lol
Your decision to re-work the hood shows your dedication to a faithful replica; good on you.
Wouldn't it be cool, when you complete this project, to truck it to the location of a restored big brother for a photo shoot of all three. I guess the simpler method would be to do some Photo Shop magic and place your two into a stock twenty two image; but it'd be a worthy road trip to find its big brother and show off your project at the same time. It deserves to be shown off; looking great!
Your decision to re-work the hood shows your dedication to a faithful replica; good on you.
Wouldn't it be cool, when you complete this project, to truck it to the location of a restored big brother for a photo shoot of all three. I guess the simpler method would be to do some Photo Shop magic and place your two into a stock twenty two image; but it'd be a worthy road trip to find its big brother and show off your project at the same time. It deserves to be shown off; looking great!
82_454_shorty
Well-known member
That thing is looking good. Keep at it!
I void warranties
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2011
- Messages
- 605
SKILZ! awesome project. consider that a family heirloom!
OP
dozerbuilder01
Well-known member
Thanks everyone for looking.
I'm not trying to build an exact replica. I'd probably go crazy. I just want it to look similar. And yes, when I'm done, I plan to take it to some shows and hopefully find a nice full size Twenty Two to put it next to.
I have decided to take a break. I don't want to get burned out and I have time since my son is still young. And after building the porch a few weeks ago, the wife wanted a porch swing. I figured it was a good opportunity to build a ring roller and then build a porch swing with it. I don't have much use for a ring roller on the dozer but I may use it for the blade arms.
If you're interested, check out the thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2450269
Now that die cast twenty two is just so darn cute! lol
Your decision to re-work the hood shows your dedication to a faithful replica; good on you.
Wouldn't it be cool, when you complete this project, to truck it to the location of a restored big brother for a photo shoot of all three. I guess the simpler method would be to do some Photo Shop magic and place your two into a stock twenty two image; but it'd be a worthy road trip to find its big brother and show off your project at the same time. It deserves to be shown off; looking great!
I'm not trying to build an exact replica. I'd probably go crazy. I just want it to look similar. And yes, when I'm done, I plan to take it to some shows and hopefully find a nice full size Twenty Two to put it next to.
I have decided to take a break. I don't want to get burned out and I have time since my son is still young. And after building the porch a few weeks ago, the wife wanted a porch swing. I figured it was a good opportunity to build a ring roller and then build a porch swing with it. I don't have much use for a ring roller on the dozer but I may use it for the blade arms.
If you're interested, check out the thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2450269
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Great project & very nice craftsmanship. Let me know when your finished with it so I can come over & play on it.