Scissor lift question

[sgf13]

I have been looking at automotive scissor lifts for quite some time. Now that I'm officially a senior citizen I'm trying to get myself up off of the concrete. My issue is that I am not finding something that does everything I'm hoping it will do. Maybe it doesn't exist but I figured I'd ask here in case anyone is doing what I'm trying to do.

My building has at least 10 ft of space to the trusses. I am looking for something that will work for an occasional car repair but mostly I would use it for UTV's, golf carts and riding mowers. I also want to be able to use it as a work table to cut a piece of plywood and that sort of thing. I'd mostly use it for oil changes, to work on brakes, take wheels off, and smaller jobs like that.

The problem I'm running into is the type of lifts that you drive up on obviously don't allow for wheel removal. There is also the issue of things like a lawn mower not being wide enough. I believe I could fabricate something to go in the middle when I'm working on smaller vehicles, but the problem I would run into is that it still doesn't address the issue of wheel removal. The style with the pivoting arms seem like they'd be far more difficult to modify in the middle.

Has anyone figured out a way to safely modify this style of lift to do the things I mentioned? https://www.harborfreight.com/6000-lb-capacity-scissor-lift-91315.html I thought of putting jack stands on the ramps when I have to remove wheels but that seems like it might be a safety issue.

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[joey1320]

I have that exact lift in my home and have used it for cars and small SUV's with no issues. I'm sure, if I really wanted to, I could make it a table for my ride-on lawn mower but I haven't needed to.

Great lift. Built well and over 900lbs.

If you can find one, you'll be able to use the 20% or 25% (Father's Day/Easter) coupons. When the lift was $1499, I used the 25% coupon and it made it the cheapest midrise lift I could find anywhere.

 

[JRC3]

Some good info here.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=461825

As usual you'll be told to get a 4 post or a MaxJax, so be prepared...A 4 post is good unless you need to do brake or suspension work. And the MaxJax is great if you have too much time on your hands and need a hobby to get something to work right. LOL

 

[nplenzick]

I have that exact lift in my home and have used it for cars and small SUV's with no issues. I'm sure, if I really wanted to, I could make it a table for my ride-on lawn mower but I haven't needed to.

Great lift. Built well and over 900lbs.

If you can find one, you'll be able to use the 20% or 25% (Father's Day/Easter) coupons. When the lift was $1499, I used the 25% coupon and it made it the cheapest midrise lift I could find anywhere.

Are these scissor jacks lockable when raised? I would need this for storing one car while raised and pulling one car ( the hood portion) under it. This might be a better option then a four post lift for me.

 

[regguy1]

Go through entire thread to see SL / MJ comparison. Compares scissor lift with MaxJax, excellent thread here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75488&highlight=maxjax+installation+comparison

 

[boatshoes]

Are these scissor jacks lockable when raised? I would need this for storing one car while raised and pulling one car ( the hood portion) under it. This might be a better option then a four post lift for me.

Yes they are lockable. You could probably fit a hood under it, depending on the car. It would only save you a hood-length of storage versus pulling in bumper to bumper, though.

 

[Jagmandave]

I have a scissor lift and I laid a piece of MDF/melamine on it to use it as a work table and yes they do lock at many different heights. If you're concerned about the weight you can slide a couple of pieces of square tubing or even some 2x6 across under the board.

However, you have 10ft of ceiling height, a 2 post lift is doable at that height and would be far more versatile for what you want to do, and might allow you to park completely under it if you needed to - depending on what's on the rack and what you want to put under it. I don't think you could get much under one end of a scissor lift.

Failing that, a MaxJax is the next best option....I've worked on/under both a Maxjax and my scissor lift and much prefer the Max for it's greater versatility.

So, IMHO, best choices would be....

#1 2 post lift
#2 MaxJax
#3 Scissor lift

PS I'm well into seniordom too!

 

[JRC3]

I usually post these in threads like this. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397383

Are these scissor jacks lockable when raised? I would need this for storing one car while raised and pulling one car ( the hood portion) under it. This might be a better option then a four post lift for me.

This was discussed a bit here the other day. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475460

 

[nplenzick]

Yes they are lockable. You could probably fit a hood under it, depending on the car. It would only save you a hood-length of storage versus pulling in bumper to bumper, though.

That might be all I need.

 

[joey1320]

Are these scissor jacks lockable when raised? I would need this for storing one car while raised and pulling one car ( the hood portion) under it. This might be a better option then a four post lift for me.

The lift on the link goes up to 52" inches. Depending on what have have on it plus what you're trying to park under it, I would think you should be able to slide the front end of a midsize sedan or smaller under it.

Yes, the lift is lockable.

 

[sgf13]

Since my original post I happened upon this https://www.wildfirelifts.com/ . Admittedly not a scissor lift and more pricey than one but I think it may be close to perfect for me. It doesn't have to be fastened to concrete, can be moved, and although it is a drive on lift they offer a roller jack which allows the vehicle to be lifted so wheels can be removed.

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[LS6 Tommy]

I'm currenty using a friend's EZ Car Lift. So far, I really like it. Side access, goes up higher than a lot of the others and can be used at any height, not just one or two positions.

The shortcoming is you have to use a drillmotor to put it up and down.

https://www.ezcarlift.com/

Tommy

 

[Ggoytia]

Ok tread but this is what I'm looking for for info. Currently eyeballing the lift jack but my wife is giving me thumbs up on a shed. Might wait for a two post.

But this will help me.
Thanks gents.

 

[CraigStu]

The problem w/ the 4 post lift is simply that there is a LOT of steel in them and you need at least one bridge jack. So they are much more expensive than the HF scissor lift.

 

[tstaude]

I have a scissor lift and use it for everything you have mentioned.
I was lucky enough to score a Snap-On (Wheeltronics) Used for $800.

Definitely get one, the only thing you will regret is not having bought it sooner.

PS- it does stink aligning the lift blocks each time but you get good at centering after a while. To avoid bending over 4 more times I collapse mine with a 18" wood dowel.

 

[sgf13]

After a lot of looking I learned that many if not all four point lifts do not have to be anchored to concrete and can be moved on wheels if needed. I found this to be the best, albeit more expensive option for me since I believe I have the ceiling height I need. I ended up getting the Wildfire XLT with the pneumatic jack, on back order right now.

The cars should all be wide enough to go on the ramps without issue. I didn't measure the wheel width on my 1960 Ford 641 or JD 2020 tractors but I think they are wide enough. The Teryx will fit fine but the golf carts and zero turn mowers wheel bases aren't wide enough. I believe with a little ingenuity and ramps I can put them on sideways or figure something else out. The only wild card is my 2001 Dodge diesel dually. I'm not sure if it will be too wide for the posts but that isn't a deal breaker and I wouldn't have put it on a scissor lift anyway.

As others have said previously, the company was great to deal with so far. If you have put golf carts and mowers on a four post I'd be interested in pictures of how you did it as well as hearing if your dually fit.

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[nadogail]

From the title, I thought this was about a platform man lift. At a former employer I used a scissor lift to service the highbay lighting.

 

[boatshoes]

Wildfire sells these, see if you can get it added to your order https://www.wildfirelifts.com/aluminum-decking-inserts

 

[sgf13]

From the title, I thought this was about a platform man lift. At a former employer I used a scissor lift to service the highbay lighting.

Good point, I should have added "automotive"

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[sgf13]

The problem w/ the 4 post lift is simply that there is a LOT of steel in them and you need at least one bridge jack. So they are much more expensive than the HF scissor lift.

True, a bit over twice the cost with the bridge jack so I had to think hard on it. When I looked at all the pros and cons I thought this would work best for me. I had to make a decision because with steel prices going up as they are, anything with this much steel in it is about to take a price jump. I hope it works out. As always time will tell.

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[Yankeefarmer]

After a lot of looking I learned that many if not all four point lifts do not have to be anchored to concrete and can be moved on wheels if needed. I found this to be the best, albeit more expensive option for me since I believe I have the ceiling height I need. I ended up getting the Wildfire XLT with the pneumatic jack, on back order right now.

The cars should all be wide enough to go on the ramps without issue. I didn't measure the wheel width on my 1960 Ford 641 or JD 2020 tractors but I think they are wide enough. The Teryx will fit fine but the golf carts and zero turn mowers wheel bases aren't wide enough. I believe with a little ingenuity and ramps I can put them on sideways or figure something else out. The only wild card is my 2001 Dodge diesel dually. I'm not sure if it will be too wide for the posts but that isn't a deal breaker and I wouldn't have put it on a scissor lift anyway.

As others have said previously, the company was great to deal with so far. If you have put golf carts and mowers on a four post I'd be interested in pictures of how you did it as well as hearing if your dually fit.

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Mine is an Advantage lift, DX9000XLT. That’s an EZ-Go golf cart and my Ferris zero turn temporarily in storage. Built filler pieces out of 2x4’s and 3/4 ply because I used the lift as a movable work platform. Drove on from the side using the aluminum ramps, but the wheels are sitting on the ramps, not the fillers.

I have to fold in the mirrors to put my F250 SRW on the lift, and the tires slightly overhang the ramps.

 

[leadfoot415]

I usually post these in threads like this. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397383

This was discussed a bit here the other day. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475460

I like this idea. I have a few of these NORCO brand heavy duty stands at work for doing suspension on super duties and never have thought of this application for them at home with a cheap scissor lift. I will have to check out those sunex copies of the 10 ton stands.

I dont have the room at home for a real 2 post, but could probably do 90% of my side jobs with a scissor lift and a 4 set of these.

 

[sgf13]

Mine is an Advantage lift, DX9000XLT. That’s an EZ-Go golf cart and my Ferris zero turn temporarily in storage. Built filler pieces out of 2x4’s and 3/4 ply because I used the lift as a movable work platform. Drove on from the side using the aluminum ramps, but the wheels are sitting on the ramps, not the fillers.



I have to fold in the mirrors to put my F250 SRW on the lift, and the tires slightly overhang the ramps.

Thanks, that's just what I plan to do with my carts and mowers. I like the fillers as I too will use mine to work off of. I want to get as much value out of it as possible.

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[sgf13]

So good news and bad news update! I bought the WF xlt and a jack which is on back order. My son lives about 3.5 hrs. from me and very close to one of the company's distribution facilities. The news gets better as he offers to trailer the lift to me and help set it up. Better still my 16 yr. old grandson becomes available so now I have two helpers. I get everything ready in the shop and fire the skid steer up and use it a bit.

So the lift arrives and I get in the skid steer that I drove an hour earlier to swap bucket for forks. I did have to jump it the night before and that morning, which isn't uncommon since it does sit a lot unused. The skid steer was a necessity for lifting the runways since I gave my engine lift away years ago due to storage issues. There wasn't room for other lifting options. I gave my HF 1,000 lb. hydraulic lift a good workout but the bottom line is the skid steer was the safest best option.

We never got it running so we never finished assembling the lift.Three years ago the skid steer did something similar. The starter would sometimes stick and run on occassionaly and ultimately I had to replace the starter and battery. I also replaced the VERY pricey instrument panel that I really think was damaged because of the other issues. I can fully charge the current battery to a 100% reading and over 12v. It'll light the panel up and click sometimes but doesn't turn over even with a good jump box connected to the charged battery. I get the same results connecting the jump box to the cables eliminating the battery. I fear I am going down the same road I did the last time since my normally accurate battery tester shows the battery as bad. Unfortunately getting the battery out with the lift arms down isn't an option so we'll see how it goes.

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[JRC3]

Any chance on powering right to the starter solenoid or starter motor itself to get it started? Do you have a remote starter switch? https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html Everybody needs one of these from time to time to at least send power to the solenoid or relay or whatever. Sending power to the starter motor itself is a bit more challenging but can be done. I think many of us has at least thrown power to a starter motor to make sure it was good for troubleshooting.

 

[sgf13]

Any chance on powering right to the starter solenoid or starter motor itself to get it started? Do you have a remote starter switch? https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html Everybody needs one of these from time to time to at least send power to the solenoid or relay or whatever. Sending power to the starter motor itself is a bit more challenging but can be done. I think many of us has at least thrown power to a starter motor to make sure it was good for troubleshooting.

Unfortunately we couldn't get to the starter terminals, or even see them. It is a 99 NH Lx665 and with the boom down it's a real challenge to get in there. I have a 1960 Ford 641 that has a Wagner bucket on it. It hasn't run in years but I just bought hyd. lines and a battery for it. If I can get it running I may use the bucket to lift the skid steer arms up.

The remote starter is on my to get list. I have been doing the screwdriver thing for years but I'm ready for a change.

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[sgf13]

I haven't been able to get on GJ in a while so I am slow telling the results. It turned out to be the starter. I hope this doesn't become a trend as the one I had to replace wasn't old nor did it have a lot of use on it.

 

[amkluttz]

I'm currenty using a friend's EZ Car Lift. So far, I really like it. Side access, goes up higher than a lot of the others and can be used at any height, not just one or two positions.

The shortcoming is you have to use a drillmotor to put it up and down.

https://www.ezcarlift.com/

Tommy

I had never seen the EZ Car Lift before. I seriously thought I had found what I needed for doing oil changes, brakes, tire rotations and some other maintenance tasks. Then I see the price... I know steel prices are up but it's listed at about $1000 too much, especially considering there is no motor.

 

[sgf13]

Wildfire sells these, see if you can get it added to your order https://www.wildfirelifts.com/aluminum-decking-inserts

My wife got me two of the inserts for Christmas along with a couple of the wedge shaped ramps so I can drive up on them from the side of the lift. I didn't get the ramps until a week ago. I haven't tried them yet but I look forward to seeing how they work out.

 

[sgf13]

I keep forgetting to mention that the 2001 Dodge dually will not fit on the lift. The rear fenders will not clear the posts, but I anticipated that. The only complaint I have so far is how slowly the lift comes down when it doesn't have a lot of weight on it. I have to figure out a way to hold the locking dog handle in place rather than hold it for what seems forever.