markomarko
Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2026
- Messages
- 9


It doesn't have a call out for a part number, so I suspect it's there for dimensioning the widthYes that is what I’m expecting to do. I just wasn’t sure what that was on the engineering they sent me. It was throwing me off.
That makes it hard to properly brace the trusses and tie in the ceiling. Check out the link I provided above.Why would there be a scissor truss on the end wall. Seems like a standard truss matching the roof line and a standard wall would be a he11 of a lot easier.
Because its against code in most places creating a failure hinge. This explains whyWhy would there be a scissor truss on the end wall. Seems like a standard truss matching the roof line and a standard wall would be a he11 of a lot easier.
I would specify basic gable trusses for the ends. No need to frame under them and the wall bears the load, not the truss.
Another thing I just thought of. If I balloon frame, what’s keeping the exterior walls from kicking out since there’s no double top plate under the scissor truss?
And there is almost no downward load on that wall.Huh?
Double top plate isn't about walls kicking out, it's about proper load transfer from roof to wall framing.
You have 8' feet of 2x material continuously framed up and attached to the truss, which is tied back to the rest of the roof trusses. Why would the wall "kick out"?
Sounds like a great idea, if you like a floppy weak wall.
And there is almost no downward load on that wall.
@markomarko it feels like you are getting way ahead of yourself on this build. You have trusses showing up but don't know how to frame the walls. How was the building designed?
The ceiling does or if no ceiling, the bottom chord bracing.Another thing I just thought of. If I balloon frame, what’s keeping the exterior walls from kicking out since there’s no double top plate under the scissor truss?
