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Shed Build Construction

D45

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I am building a 10x12 shed, from scratch

I have build 2 before, so it should go smoothly.......

What joist spacing should I use for the floor with 2x4x10 pressure treated lumber? 16" on center ok?

Is pressure treated plywood flooring totally needed?

The price difference for a 4x8 sheet of treated is considerably more!

What thickness of plywood flooring should I use, 1/2", 5/8" or 3/4"?

I plan on resting the entire shed on four pieces (evenly spaced out) of 4x4x12 pressure treated posts
 
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nehog

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A floor, 10 ft with no support in center? I'd go 2x6 if that's the case. As for spacing, 16" is reasonable since it gives you spacing for a 4x8 sheet of ply. I'd also use two layers of 5/8 CDX with seams staggered.
 
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D45

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A floor, 10 ft with no support in center? I'd go 2x6 if that's the case. As for spacing, 16" is reasonable since it gives you spacing for a 4x8 sheet of ply. I'd also use two layers of 5/8 CDX with seams staggered.

I will have 4 evenly spaced 4x4x12 posts running under neath the shed, to get it up off the ground and to also provide the needed support for the 2x4s
 
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D45

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A floor, 10 ft with no support in center? I'd go 2x6 if that's the case. As for spacing, 16" is reasonable since it gives you spacing for a 4x8 sheet of ply. I'd also use two layers of 5/8 CDX with seams staggered.

I think I am going with the 4x10 oversized plywood sheets, three sheets will cover the 10x12 floor, two seams
 

rustynutts

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2x4 PT joists on 16" centers is more than adequate on top of the 4x4 PT spaced on 30" spacing. If the 4x4 are not buried in gravel or dirt and air can circulate under the floor, 5/8 CDX would be OK. If the floor framing is setting on the ground, use PT plywood. If your putting something heavy like an engine on a stand where the weight is concentrated to a point load, then go with the 3/4" CDX.
 

nehog

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I think I am going with the 4x10 oversized plywood sheets, three sheets will cover the 10x12 floor, two seams

Were this mine, I'd still go with two layers of ply with staggered seams. But that's me, not you. :thumbup: If you go one layer of ply, and the seams are on top of a 2x4 so they are supported that should work reasonably well if nothing really heavy (like a lawn tractor) is going to roll around in there.

I will have 4 evenly spaced 4x4x12 posts running under neath the shed, to get it up off the ground and to also provide the needed support for the 2x4s

So three feet unsupported on the 2x4s... That may be reasonable.
 

justtools

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This is your best advise. The majority of money is spent on labor for any project. If you are building it yourself you can afford to build it properly. 2x6 and 2 layers of 5/8 plywood staggered seems. Make for a solid floor.
 
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D45

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I've used my method in the past and its rock solid

No need for two layers of plywood

This shed will only be for pool storage items, tree stands, and all my lawn and landscape storage

I have my 1,000 sq foot shop for everything else
 

Dustball

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I would use 3/4" pressure treated plywood for the floor. You're going to get wet floors from tracking it in from the outside (wet grass, wet pavement, etc...).
 

BRay549

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My shed is the same size (see the icon picture below my name to the left). I used 12 pier blocks, then three 12' long 4x6 pressure treated beams with p.t. 2x6's spaced 16"oc on top of that. Then 3/4" tongue & groove plywood as a sub floor; and finally 1/2" plywood with about 4 coats of shellac. It has worked beautifully.
 

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nolimits76

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With 2x4's I'd run on 12" centers. With 2x6's I'd leave on 16" centers. I wouldn't consider anything less than 3/4" treated unless you did the two cross-braced layers as some have suggested.

It may cost you have a few hundred extra now, but I always prefer to overbuild as my needs tend to change in the future and I like to be prepared. Plus I like to do it only once.
 

Hpozzuoli

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I used 2x6's on 16's for the floor. I used 5/8 decking. Everything is pressure treated up to the vertical studs. I have 6 concrete pads with posts underneath. My shed is also 10x12 scratch built. I have my X300 in there along with tons of other stuff and have zero issues with the floor.
 

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D45

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I put down commercial grade landscaper/weed plastic

Landscape timbers set, and 1/2" spikes are holding them all in place

I set the base about 2" longer and 2" wider than the actual 10x12 shed will be

I filled it in with 2,000 pounds of crushed paver stone, that I will compact and level out

This week I plan on laying and leveling the 4x4x12 PT posts, so that this coming weekend I can start on the floor construction

PT 2x4s and PT plywood
 
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D45

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IMG_20140420_104419_348_zpserrz3cyf.jpg
 
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D45

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I am now looking at wall building and construction.......

2x4x92 5/8 (stud) is $2.44

2x3x8 is $1.92

I would like the 2x3s, to save some money and interior space

However, I want 8' tall walls and will be using 4x8 sheets of wall paneling

Both 2x4s (studs) and the 2x3 will work, but I also want the 4x8 wall paneling to hang a tab below the base board for the walls

Plus, by buying the more expensive 2x4 studs, t hey will be stronger and will also save me a lot of time by not having to cut down each board to my desire wall height

The 2x4 stud is only $0.51 more than the 2x3x8
 
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jasong70

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You need to be mindful of the way you lay the plywood. The long side of the ply needs to run across from the joists otherwise it will sag. This is really important. Yes,you'll have more seams, but it will be more solid.


One layer should be fine but use 2x6 16" o/c. No PT is ok is your soil is relatively dry and you'll have air space. Set it on all 4 corners and in the center. That should be more than enough.

Yes for 2x4.

You should look around if you can buy pre made trusses. Around here they are slightly more than just the wood so it makes sense to buy them. Alternatively, before you frame your walls, use the floor to make a jig to construct your trusses. Build them, set them aside then frame your walls.
 
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D45

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I will be using treated 2x4s and treated plywood for the floor construction.....I was going to do a 16" OC but will pony up and do 12" OC for the floor

The walls will just be normal ole pine 2x4 studs
 
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D45

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I just want an open truss with the gussets, like this:

gambrel-truss-13_zps7abd9453.jpg



I do not want a truss with the joist running lengthwise

Gambrel-Barn-Shed-Plans-Front-Back-Truss_zpsa6f35b46.png


I want the roof area to be open for front and back lofts , that's the purpose of having a gambrel roof!
 

glider

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When I am making patterns for a new model I draw out the trusses on the floor. A ridge beam would strengthen the roof up some but eather way would be fine.

 
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D45

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Thanks for the info

Is a plywood gusset needed on both sides of the truss connections or just one side?
 

glider

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I do gusset both sides but single side the outside truss. If you are not going with a ridge beam you should go 16"oc. With a ridge beam you can do 24"oc.
 

48RON54

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I appreciate this topic and would like to see more pics of your shed build. I have an old metal shed on a concrete pad that I would like to remove and build a wood one in it's place. That having been said, home construction (wall framing/roofing etc) is not really my strong point and I will be on a learning curve. I didn't even know premade roof trusses were sold...... I assume they come in standardized dimensions and may not be correct for my project........either way, looking forward to this build and pics! Good job so far!
 
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D45

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I will definitely take pics......hopefully I get a lot done this coming weekend

I am going Friday night to get all the wood for the floor/base structure
 

msgross

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my shed is 2.x3 walls and 2x4 floors with 4x4's running the length for it to sit on. My old Heavy John Deere tractor still sit pretty firm on it but PT plywood would have been better. I have gambrel truss and love the overhead storage that it allows.

I had one of those road side shed places build and deliver it since I had just moved in and needed the storage. Cost was $1300 for an 8x16 and that was 8 years ago. The front doors are now starting to rot. It's T1-11 siding, I'd go vinyl or something more durable next time.
 
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D45

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my shed is 2.x3 walls and 2x4 floors with 4x4's running the length for it to sit on. My old Heavy John Deere tractor still sit pretty firm on it but PT plywood would have been better. I have gambrel truss and love the overhead storage that it allows.

Thanks for the input

I am confident that PT 2x4s will be plenty strong for the floor joists

I plan on sitting the entire shed on PT 4x4s, like what you are explaining
 
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D45

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4x4x12 treated posts levels and centered

This will allow air flow under the shed to help with moisture and to put the shed up off the ground........again to help with moisture and snow

IMG_20140426_131115_494_zpsorl4uuhf.jpg


I then started framing the floor on top of the 4x4s

I used treated 2x4s

IMG_20140426_133729_044_zpsupnmlgxd.jpg


IMG_20140426_133746_869_zpshqjfowsa.jpg
 
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D45

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IMG_20140426_190434_658_zpsyptfe7bh.jpg



Treated sheets of 5/8" thick plywood......got away with 4 sheets

I put three 700-800 cc ATVs on the shed floor and it was rock solid, no deflection


IMG_20140426_190419_312_zpsgdrs2f1f.jpg



Next weekend the walls will be built
 

iahawk

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Great pics so far! How are you planning to secure the shed to the ground..or will just the weight of the shed be enough to keep it in place with high winds?
 
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D45

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It will be plenty heavy, not concerned about the winds......have you ever lifted a sheet of threated 5/8" plywood before? haha.........I did, 4 total sheets, very heavy!

I have build two other sheds with this method, never moved
 
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D45

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Ok, I am using pre-cut 2x4 studs (92 5/8") for my walls.......

What should my "on center" spacing be?

16"

18"

20"

??
 
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