Shed Build Construction

[Beemer533]

That's a great idea, especially since I am doing 99% of the build and construction myself

I will just find some scrap wood and screw it to the base when I hang the siding

I am also going to lay down another layer of treated plywood inside flooring of the shed

I think I used 5/8" on the base initially and will use 1/2" for the top layer

I just bought a riding mower and think the added top layer will be beneficial

I had thought about doing that on mine, but I used 3/4" PT and I will also never need a riding mower at this house, so I decided against it...

I think I am also going to find a 48" long section of 1/8" angle aluminum, maybe like 3" long on each side to put over the shed entrance area......just liquid nail it down

I have 2 months to 100% finish and fill the shed. October 1 it MUST be done

It will be so nice to have all the lawn care items/tools, landscape stuff, pool items, and tree stands inside the shed and out of the garage!

Great minds think alike


I used a 1.5" x 2" x 1/8" length of AL angle as a threshold. I drilled and countersunk mine and used some weather guard screws... It has held up very well....

I was very happy to have mine done.. all that stuff was just killing me in the garage... I still need to add more shelving to mine though.

 

[D45]

Awesome, the aluminum threshold is GREAT idea!

I figure by adding a top layer of 1/2" PT plywood, I will be able to re-pattern the flooring and cover up the seams with larger sheets by laying the plywood down in a different layout

Two layers with covered seams, it should be plenty strong for a 600ish pound mower

 

[D45]

What sheathing should I use for the roof?

 

[D45]

The trusses will hopefully be installed this weekend............anyone have input on what to use for roof sheathing?

7/16 OSB?

 

[D45]

I am also going to buy some 2x4x10s, maybe 2x6x10s, to span the rear width of the shed......so I can built a storage loft about the last 4 feet of the shed

I figure if I installed the 2x4s or 2x6s now, it will be easier to build the loft, especially after the rafters are in place

 

[Beemer533]

The trusses will hopefully be installed this weekend............anyone have input on what to use for roof sheathing?

7/16 OSB?

I went back and forth for a bit on my shed on this issue; I ended up going with 1/2" plywood as the difference from OSB in the end was less than $100...

I forget, did you do 16" OC for the rafters? If you did 16" OC, I think 7/16" OSB should be fine..

 

[Beemer533]

The trusses will hopefully be installed this weekend............anyone have input on what to use for roof sheathing?

7/16 OSB?

I am also going to buy some 2x4x10s, maybe 2x6x10s, to span the rear width of the shed......so I can built a storage loft about the last 4 feet of the shed

I figure if I installed the 2x4s or 2x6s now, it will be easier to build the loft, especially after the rafters are in place

I did a loft as well, but i just did a 2x6 for the main support, and then 2x4 as joists. I just nailed the 2x4 into the side of each stud, I didn't run a ledger board across the back..

I don't know how well this photo shows it...

 

[D45]

Yeah, since my walls are 92 5/8" studs, I just plan on placing three 2x4x10s across the rear width (spaced out for 4 feet deep) of the shed, ontop of the wall plate

It will be high up, but I also have a gambrel roof so I want to make use of the ceiling

 

[Beemer533]

That should be fine, but it might sag a bit if you put heavy stuff up there with 2x4.. May want to consider 2x6...

With that gambrel roof you do get a ton of space! Should work well..

 

[D45]

Roof trusses are up

Mounted them with hurricane straps, about $0.58 each

I also put a single 3" screw in them

I ran a 2x4x12 length wise down each side of the truss, so I used two

I also mounted three 2x4x10s at the rear of the shed, and cut the ends at angle (to clear the rood sheets). I used a single 3" screw and mounted them directly to the top of the wall plate. This will be for the rear loft, which will be 4 feet deep and 10 feet wide

I have four 2x4x8 screwed in the front and back for roof support, until it can be sheathed

 

[D45]

Should I sheet the roof first or side the walls?

 

[malibu101]

Should I sheet the roof first or side the walls?

I don't know the "official" correct answer but I think and build this way.....
If your not starting off of a level, square, plumb base everything above it is a fight to line up and make look good if even possible.
I personally start from the ground up keeping everything level, square, and plumb.

What I'm saying is.... Do the walls first keeping them trued up.

If your measurements are correct the only way everything will go together is if you keep everything level, square, and plumb.

Did I beat in level, square, and plumb enough.

 

[Beemer533]

Yeah, I'd start from the bottom up as well to keep things plumb and square...

Looks awesome BTW, love all the space the gambrel roof gets you..

 

[D45]

Walls it is!

Time to head to Menards next and get about 12 sheets

 

[D45]

SmartSide 3/8 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Siding Panel

$24.75 per panel

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSid...Siding-Panel-27874/100055901?N=5yc1vZaripZ2wi

Should I just use this 3/8" panel or should I order the 7/16"

 

[malibu101]

Should I just use this 3/8" panel or should I order the 7/16"

You asked a silly question. This is the GJ, bigger is always better.

Sorry for the useless post, I don't have a honest answer.

 

[glider]

3/8" is fine for walls if you are going 16" oc with studs.

 

[D45]

3/8" is fine for walls if you are going 16" oc with studs.

Thanks, yes the wall studs are placed at 16" OC

 

[Beemer533]

I used 7/16" T1-11 as I was not doing anything else for siding.. I would say the 3/8" is probably fine, but the cost difference wasn't much so I just went for it.

 

[D45]

7/16" x 4' x 8' LP SmartSide Grooved 8" OC Fiber Panel; $23.98

5/8" x 4' x 8' LP SmartSide Grooved 8" OC Strand Panel; $39.99

3/8" x 4' x 8' LP SmartSide Grooved 8" OC Strand Panel; $24.75

---------------------------

I wonder why the 7/16" is cheaper than the 3/8"????

The 3/8" and 5/8" is a rated panel for structural use

The 7/16" product is not rated for structural use

 

[D45]

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...ber-cement-panel-siding/p-1766842-c-13383.htm

4' x 8' Grooved 8" OC Fiber Cement Panel Siding ; $34.98

How does this product compare to this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSid...plzm5u&cm_mmc=CJ-_-6147012-_-11210757&cj=true

 

[Beemer533]

I don't know, they both look good.. I couldn't see the thickness of the cement board, but assuming they are the same I'd say it's a wash...

For that price difference though, I think the HD smartside will be just fine!

I will say as much as I like cement siding, without the right tools cutting it is a messy, nasty job..

 

[D45]

Siding and roof sheathing question:

Should the 7//16" OSB roof sheathing sit over/on top of the wall siding?

I am thinking so, to help with moisture and rain run off..........just wanted to make sure

The roof shingles will over hang a inch or so anyways

 

[Beemer533]

I would do that, definitely.

Don't forget the drip edge, OSB will absorb a lot of moisture otherwise. Then just extend the shingles about 1/4" past the drip edge..

This post has been edited by the NSA

 

[D45]

Wall paneling question:

Are these Smart Side panels tongue n groove or will I need to have a stud at each seam to nail each section to?

Just wondering how I make a seamless and weather-tight wall when joining these together

 

[sands35]

Typically, they lap over each other. Either a stud or a backer of some sort. Caulk the seam before paint. If you are taller than 8', you will need a Z channel to protect the top of the lower sheets.

Then get paint on the exposed edges.

 

[Beemer533]

Yeah they should lap over each other, but you definitely want to have a stud there, especially with 3/8" panels..

This post has been edited by the NSA

 

[D45]

Yes I am aware of the Z channel needed, for the front and back

I guess I will also need to buy more studs then, because I assume that my 16" OC studs won't match up to the location of the seams on the 4x8 sheets

 

[D45]

Glider......if I am using one of those rollup doors, do I really need to redo the entrance area and install a header board/jack stud????

 

[csp]

Yes I guess I will also need to buy more studs then, because I assume that my 16" OC studs won't match up to the location of the seams on the 4x8 sheets

Huh?

Any sheet good in 4x8 lines up with studs on 16" centers. That's why you put them on 16" centers, so they line up where two sheets meet.

16 x 3 = 48"

 

[D45]

Huh?

Any sheet good in 4x8 lines up with studs on 16" centers. That's why you put them on 16" centers, so they line up where two sheets meet.

16 x 3 = 48"

Worked three doubles in 3 days, thanks for a moment of clarity

 

[D45]

I forget, what nails do I need to attach the siding sheets?

2' or 2/12" galvanized.....anything special though?

 

[Beemer533]

I made it easy on myself and just used galvanized ring shank framing nails for the siding and framing... The heads are a bit larger than siding nails, but once painted they don't stand out..

This post has been edited by the NSA

 

[sands35]

Or you can use deck screws. Ring shanks are "proper" for the job though. You will want galvanized or painted deck screws. Don't use coated sinkers though - water based paint won't stick well to the heads (don't ask me how I know).

 

[D45]

I bought some 6D galvanized nails and 12 panels of the siding, along with the caulk for the panel seams

I was able to get 6 panels up, 3 on each of the 12' long sides

I will try to get the back done tomorrow and the front next weekend, then onto the roof sheathing, another 1/2" PT sheeting on the floors, and some 1/2" OSB for the rear 4'x10' loft area

 

[Beemer533]

Looking good! Pretty soon you'll have it packed to the roof

This post has been edited by the NSA

 

[D45]

I am really hoping to work a ton it this coming weekend and have all the walls done, along with having the OSB on the roof

Then I will put another layer of PT plywood on the floor and measure for my 7' tall door opening, so that I can cut and install the header board

 

[D45]

Glider
Do you have any pics of the framed opening/extrance area?

Just curious how you framed the front wall for the roll up door

I am planning on installing a 4'x7' roll up........so does that mean I need to put the base of the header board at 7'?

 

[D45]

I was able to get the back wall paneled, but it was too busy of a weekend.......too much to do and no time to do it!

I have a 4 day weekend coming up, and I hope to be able to knock out a good portion of the shed

 

[D45]

I really need to find out how I need to frame and "re do" to door opening/entrance, because this will impact how I install and cut the siding panels

My door width is 48" and the height is will change slightly, since I will be installing a fresh layer of PT 1/2" plywood on the floor, to add stability and to cover up some seams

Should I put down the 1/2" PT plywood and then just measure up to the 7" tall door height that I want, cut out the inner 2x4 at this level and install a 2x10?