Shed Build Construction
- Thread starter D45
- Start date
Beemer533
Well-known member
Do you have a picture of the area you are trying to protect?
Are you not covering the door opening with trim?
I may not be picturing exactly what you have correctly..
This post has been edited by the NSA
Are you not covering the door opening with trim?
I may not be picturing exactly what you have correctly..
This post has been edited by the NSA
I just did this, some things I learned and would do different
I used the 4' long plastic cobra that pieces together, easy to work with and same price as the roll out felt type
use 2.5" roof nails to nail in place ,also 2.5" roof nails for the cap shingles
if using the arcartectual shingles, use the matching cap shingles and not the 3 tab. will be glad you did.
on the last row of shingles at the peak, cover the nail heads with a sealant, the ridge vent leaves these exposed.
Yes, the exposed 2x4 area for the walls, around the door opening and the exposed 2x4 for the header, around the door opening
I did not want to paint the exposed 2x4s and did not want to use trim boards, which would also need to be painted...........plus, adding wood trim would shorten the 7' tall opening and shorten the 4' door width
I found a local gutter and siding place that was able to use brown aluminum (the color which the rollup door will be) and make a cap for each side of the door opening and a cap for the overhead header boards
2 pieces custom bent to 7' each
1 piece custom bent to 4'
Total price, $30
Going to work a ton on the shed Saturday and Sunday.........
I already installed three 2x4s, running across the rear of the shed, for a loft area
A full sheet 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood and a small 12-1/2" section of 1/2" plywood was used to completely cover the loft
I added two 2x4 boards on the front of the loft that runs up to the roof trusses, for added support
Lots of storage room, LOTS
I have been slacking on pictures and will get some up this weekend
I did not want to paint the exposed 2x4s and did not want to use trim boards, which would also need to be painted...........plus, adding wood trim would shorten the 7' tall opening and shorten the 4' door width
I found a local gutter and siding place that was able to use brown aluminum (the color which the rollup door will be) and make a cap for each side of the door opening and a cap for the overhead header boards
2 pieces custom bent to 7' each
1 piece custom bent to 4'
Total price, $30
Going to work a ton on the shed Saturday and Sunday.........
I already installed three 2x4s, running across the rear of the shed, for a loft area
A full sheet 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood and a small 12-1/2" section of 1/2" plywood was used to completely cover the loft
I added two 2x4 boards on the front of the loft that runs up to the roof trusses, for added support
Lots of storage room, LOTS
I have been slacking on pictures and will get some up this weekend
The z channel on the front and back are a nice brown tone
I caulked under them and on top of them
I also brought and installed some nice brown drip edging, to seal up the roof sheathing to the wall siding.....for the front and back of the shed
I additionally bought and installed some brown aluminum edging, that will seal the sides of the gambrel roof roof where it meets the side wall paneling
The tarp comes off for good Saturday....... time to start laying the #30 paper ($15 ish) for the 216 sq foot roll
I caulked under them and on top of them
I also brought and installed some nice brown drip edging, to seal up the roof sheathing to the wall siding.....for the front and back of the shed
I additionally bought and installed some brown aluminum edging, that will seal the sides of the gambrel roof roof where it meets the side wall paneling
The tarp comes off for good Saturday....... time to start laying the #30 paper ($15 ish) for the 216 sq foot roll
Beemer533
Well-known member
That looks nice! I like the color...
Good progress it seems.
Good progress it seems.
Beemer533
Well-known member
I'm sure they will be fine, I've used those in other projects. Just make sure you use longer nails..
One comment; I used a single 8' vent, because I wasn't finishing the interior I did not feel it was necessary to run 12' of vent..
I just centered it so it was right in the middle of the roof line.
I would think you could do the same and just use two 4' sections and save some time.
As far as schedule goes, it took me the better part of 4 months to build mine working mostly alone... I wouldn't worry about it! I don't think either one of us will be building these for profit..!
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One comment; I used a single 8' vent, because I wasn't finishing the interior I did not feel it was necessary to run 12' of vent..
I just centered it so it was right in the middle of the roof line.
I would think you could do the same and just use two 4' sections and save some time.
As far as schedule goes, it took me the better part of 4 months to build mine working mostly alone... I wouldn't worry about it! I don't think either one of us will be building these for profit..!
This post has been edited by the NSA
Spent $300 on shingles, ridge shingles, nails, wood trim and I rented a roofing nailer
Tomorrow at 7am I start the roof.....I hope the have the roof done tomorrow
Hopefully it goes smoothly
I bought 7 bundles of shingles..... which I should only need 6
I also bought 1 bundle of the ridge shingles..... good for 32 linear feet and that was $35 alone
Oh well......hope it works out and things stay dry
Tomorrow at 7am I start the roof.....I hope the have the roof done tomorrow
Hopefully it goes smoothly
I bought 7 bundles of shingles..... which I should only need 6
I also bought 1 bundle of the ridge shingles..... good for 32 linear feet and that was $35 alone
Oh well......hope it works out and things stay dry
Finished the aluminum brown edge with brown caulk and brown nails
Ended up using one full roll of #30 felt
Used about 400 paper nails.....probably too much
Used about 5 1/2 bundles of shingles
I'll keep the 1/2 leftovers for spares and return the full unused bundle
Next is wall trim and wait for the brown rollup door the be delivered
Ended up using one full roll of #30 felt
Used about 400 paper nails.....probably too much
Used about 5 1/2 bundles of shingles
I'll keep the 1/2 leftovers for spares and return the full unused bundle
Next is wall trim and wait for the brown rollup door the be delivered
D45, looks good. You mentioned having an extra bundle of shingles. If you haven't returned them yet, what about saving them in case you have to do any repairs? Not sure how long shingles keep or there's any issues keeping them preserved for lengths of time. It may not be a big issue to you, but far as I know they recommend buying shingles in batches so they'll better match. Even if you could find the same shingles down the road if some blew off or whatever and needed a repair, they may not be as close of a match a year or two from now. Good build thread. Oh and don't feel bad about it taking so long, it's taken me almost 2 weeks just to get a pad built and locate metal roofing. Haven't even started building mine yet lmao.
ezover
Well-known member
this looks like my type of project speed, started 4/14 ending about 10/14.
what do you think you have in total cost on this build?
what do you think you have in total cost on this build?
Beemer533
Well-known member
Looks good!
I would tend to agree with Ron; I have saved shingles from previous projects and never used a single one.. They always ended up getting tossed.
$1300 seems pretty low, I spent over $2500 on mine... I guess it depends though! Less than $1500 is what I guesstimated for mine originally..
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I would tend to agree with Ron; I have saved shingles from previous projects and never used a single one.. They always ended up getting tossed.
$1300 seems pretty low, I spent over $2500 on mine... I guess it depends though! Less than $1500 is what I guesstimated for mine originally..
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Like I said I will be saving the half bundle of opened and extra shingles
Time around the wall corners and trim around the door opening, along with the brown aluminium sections will finish it off
Just will wait on the roll up door
I had no clue it would take 4 weeks to get in
Time around the wall corners and trim around the door opening, along with the brown aluminium sections will finish it off
Just will wait on the roll up door
I had no clue it would take 4 weeks to get in
captain14
Well-known member
I have been following you thread since the beginning. Time is you biggest investment and you want to do it right. 4 1/2 months is about right since life gets in the way.
Can you show the inside loft details you posted about? Especially since you put the framing in while the frame was going up.
You planning on electric in the shed?
Overhang and ramp at the door?
Thanks
Can you show the inside loft details you posted about? Especially since you put the framing in while the frame was going up.
You planning on electric in the shed?
Overhang and ramp at the door?
Thanks
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Some might criticize you for not using "ice and water shield" at the bottom edge. Without gutters, there is no chance for an ice dam with that pitch on the lower roof !
You are going to get slash from the ground back on to the siding. Nor much you can do about it except keep it clean and painted.
Make sure you have adequate drainage at the ground to carry rain water away.
You are going to get slash from the ground back on to the siding. Nor much you can do about it except keep it clean and painted.
Make sure you have adequate drainage at the ground to carry rain water away.
Yes I will get some loft pictures up
I plan on making removable ramps for my riding mower, wheel barrel, etc
The ramps will be easily stored inside and won't stick out into the yard
These ramps will use 2"x12" treated boards with steel brackets like those used for pickup truck loading bracket kits
Not planning on electrical at this point
My 18'x65' garage is only 30-40 yards away and really won't use the shed after daylight hours
I plan on making removable ramps for my riding mower, wheel barrel, etc
The ramps will be easily stored inside and won't stick out into the yard
These ramps will use 2"x12" treated boards with steel brackets like those used for pickup truck loading bracket kits
Not planning on electrical at this point
My 18'x65' garage is only 30-40 yards away and really won't use the shed after daylight hours
I had thought about doing that on mine, but I used 3/4" PT and I will also never need a riding mower at this house, so I decided against it...
Great minds think alike
I used a 1.5" x 2" x 1/8" length of AL angle as a threshold. I drilled and countersunk mine and used some weather guard screws... It has held up very well....
I was very happy to have mine done.. all that stuff was just killing me in the garage... I still need to add more shelving to mine though.
Getting back to this idea.......I still want to cover and protect the corner of the entry, but this will also leave some of the PT wood flooring exposed
There would be an exposed section of flooring between the roll up door and the 2"x"2" aluminum angle
I bought a piece of 1/8" thick 2"x2"x48" aluminum channel and think I might return it
I found some pieces of 1/8" thick aluminum, that has a 2" lip to cover the front of the entry, but it extends back 4".
The width of the 2x4 is only 3-1/2" so this would give me full coverage and protection of the entry, from the edge of the flooring back and under the roll up door
I am thinking about using liquid nails to secure the aluminum to the wood and then using a small bead of clear silicon around the underneath perimeter, before I press it down
Do you think the liquid nails will hold or should I screw it down also?
This is what I am thinking:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15113200671...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=151132006713&_rdc=1
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Beemer533
Well-known member
The liquid nails should work fine, just make sure you use the right type..
Also, I would scuff the bottom of the aluminum to get a better bond.
One thing you might want to consider, if you do use adhesive and you need to remove the strip if it gets damaged, you will probably also tear up the floor with it.
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Also, I would scuff the bottom of the aluminum to get a better bond.
One thing you might want to consider, if you do use adhesive and you need to remove the strip if it gets damaged, you will probably also tear up the floor with it.
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I don't know for sure, if it's a nice counter sink bit I might not use it on the aluminum. What about picking up a cheapo? Or if the one you have is an inexpensive one and you don't mind grabbing another in case the aluminum takes the edge off the bit. Aluminum is pretty soft stuff, likely softer than hardwood. Maybe on a lower speed if you have a variable trigger on your drill. I haven't tried on the piece you're working on so you may want to test it out on a small piece first. Doubt it'd be an issue though.
glider
Well-known member
I have these aluminum diamond plate pieces bent up. About $25 apiece and money well spent. Countersunk and screwed down.
Since you posted a pic of it, it got me looking for it. I'd wanted something to protect the leading edge of the plywood floor for my shed build. Most of the diamond tread I've found is aluminum - can't tell from your pic, most of your wood appears standard (non pressure treated) so it probably won't be an issue. I'm wondering if using it over pt ply would be an issue (they say the newer mca pressure treatment's even more corrosive to aluminum).