Shed Project: New Construction Build Thread

[lupinsea]

Great project! Where did you find the flashing to put on top of the exposed beams, that stuff has my number...

I made it myself.

The lumber store was selling 5" x 8" (and 8" x 12") flat sheet metal flashing "shingles". I simply cut them to side, bent them, and folded them up. I think I had posted photos of the "process" before, if not, click the links below to see pictures.

1. Cut sheet to size + notches
Drew some lines on the flashing with a speed square and pencil. Cut the flashing to a 3 1/2" wide width (1" return on each side + 1 1/2" wide for the rafter width). Then cut the notches into it where it will be folded.

2. Fold in vice
I lined the jaws of my bench vice with masking tape to keep from scratching the flashing finish, then bent the flashing along the pencil lines. There's no need to clamp the sheet metal in the vice, just get the jaws close together, maybe 1/16" apart. Then slip in the sheet metal and fold over using a straight edge as an assist. I used my speed square, worked great.

3. Flashing sides folded over
This is what the flashing cap looked like with the sides folded over but before bending it to 90 deg.

4. Final bend
This was the final 90 deg bend to the flashing. After this I'd squeeze in the sides a bit more so that it would fit tight and snug over the end of the 2x rafter framing. Over time I found it helpful to wait to do the last 90 deg bend until I actually needed to install the flashing. It allowed me to stack all the folded flashing caps within each other.​

Also, I found it significantly easier to nail on the flashing (using 3d galvanized nails) with the rafters on the ground or saw horses. Much easier than trying to install them after the rafters were nailed in place (not being up on a ladder and not having the end of the rafter boing around on you). It did mean being a little more careful lifting the rafters up into place so that I didn't bang the flashed ends into anything. . . mostly so I wouldn't have an ugly dent in the flashing cap.

It's not a speedy process, but I think I got it down to 3-4 minute average per end cap. Now, multiply that out by the 48 end caps I needed total on this project and it's a fair amount of time just bending / cutting sheet metal. I didn't do it in one shot, though. Mostly in the week or to leading up to when I'd need them I'd do a certain number each night. Or do all the initial cuts one night, then bending the next night. And I did them in the evenings after dark. It was either that or sit on the couch and watch TV.



Also, if you need to make your own flashing profiles, I found this very cool video on how to make your own break or extrusion die. Very simple to do out of a piece of plywood.

Flashing extrusion die.

After thinking about this a bit more, if you found the right width of roll flashing, you could probably save a whole mess of time by setting up a jig / die to extrude the "U" shape for the flashing caps (that's where I burned up a lot of time, that and marking out the fold lines with pencil). Then you can extrude an entire roll in no time, then simply snip them to size and be done with it. Dang, I wish I had thought of that, now that I'm mentioning it here.

As Dad used to say: "old too soon, smart too late."

 

[hpw]

aha....Finehomebuilding......nuff said

subscribe? GREAT magazine!!

 

[lupinsea]

Ah, finally. Some of the siding was installed this weekend. As mentioned repeatedly below in the captions, it was a slow process. What I figured to be relatively easy and straight forward proved to have much nuance to it.

Originally I figured I'd cut the fiber-cement siding panels to size and install them. Figuring on some minor variations in sizes I hadn't thought this would be a big deal since it could be accounted for by cheating the gaps wider or narrower. However, even a 1/16 or 1/8" size difference produces a notably different gap or reveal condition. This is part of the reason traditional trim boards and detailing were developed, to hide joint between different materials. But on this shed with it's very modern, precise looking siding there is no trim. So each piece needs to be carefully measured and cut. And given the accuracy of the framing (ahem) this only exacerbated the problem with some walls slightly wider at the top than the bottom.

Also, given the dwindling daylight I tried to get a lot of things pre-measured and pre-cut at night so they were ready to go the next day. But, the higher up the shed I went for each measurement, the less accurate it would be. Many of the boards needed to be re-cut. Probably didn't help to be taking measurement in the dark with a head lamp. I finally figured I can only install 2-3 courses at a time before needing to double check measurement off of the previously installed boards.

The installation of the panels also required back priming or back painting the reverse side of the siding panels for a little extra protection. Also, given the weather, it made sense to go ahead and pre-paint the whole panel before installation. This way the edges would get painted (which would be very difficult post installation) and there's be an additional lay of protection through the fall and winter to hold everything over until I can top coat it in spring.

Attaching the panels to the wall brought it's own challenges. Ideally, nails driven into fiber-cement panels are wither flush with the surface or slightly raise. This is to prevent crushing through the material to ensure a stronger mounting condition. As such, it took some experimentation with the pressure setting on the air compressor. Even so, while 95% of the nails were set right some were left 1/4 to 1/2" under driven (sticking out) as the nail gun bounced off the surface of the panel. Trying to hammer in the nails would end up bending them about half the time. And with the ring shank siding nails it's nearly impossible to remove a bent nail without causing further damage to the material. Best I could do was nip off the nail head, hammer the stub flush, then set a second nail. Before top coating with paint I'll fill in the little blemishes and smooth them out. But ungh. Annoying.

The siding system. Exterior Hardiplank over 1/2" cedar
furring strips over weather resistive barrier.

The black spots on the furring strips are blasts of spray
paint where the panel gaps will be.

It's a lot trickier working with the Hardiplank (a fiber-cement
siding board) that I figured. While generally hard and durable
they can be susceptible to damage and gouging during
installation. Hammering in nails that the nail gun didn't set
flush is problematic, there's virtually no support in the panel
material so it allows the nails to bend over easily. And pulling
the nails out can result in more gouging.

The best method I've found to deal with bent nails is to nip off
the nail head, pound flush, and re-nail in a slightly different
location. Before the top coat of paint goes one, the other holes
will need to be filled and sanded smooth.

A jig saw blade was toast after cutting this one square hole. The
fiber-cement materal eats through conventional blades very fast.

It's a slow process installing these panels. Many
needed to be re-cut before installation to get a
custom fit. And because of the quality of the
framing (ahem) most panels needed to be custom
measured. On top of that, the backs of the panels
were painted with a first coat of paint for a little
extra protection and the edges were given two
coats, the base and the top coat. Between
measuring, cutting, and waiting for paint to dry
it was a slow process.​

 

[Clinotus]

Lupinsea I've been following this thread via subscription for quite some time, your attention to detail and relaying that detail in your comments make this a great read. Keep up the great work.

 

[993James993]

Wow! This is beautiful. How are finishing the gaps around the panels? Are you sealing them with some type of grout or caulking? Or do they float away from the framing?

I'm sure you know that this is only the start. After you finish the two sheds what will your next project be? Any consideration of building a detached garage?

 

[Jack Olsen]

Painting the 1x2s was the right way to go.

 

[wrigh003]

Very, very nice. I agree that painting the furring was the right thing to do. Took me a little bit to understand the rain screen thing- we don't see those in my part of the world too much, it doesn't really rain enough to make them popular.

 

[lupinsea]

Wow! This is beautiful. How are finishing the gaps around the panels? Are you sealing them with some type of grout or caulking? Or do they float away from the framing?

I'm sure you know that this is only the start. After you finish the two sheds what will your next project be? Any consideration of building a detached garage?

The gaps will be there. It's part of this type of siding system. So the panels will look like they are floating off the framing. Of course, that aspect is mostly noticeable only when you're up close. Further away, 15-20 ft+, and it just looks like a grid of black lines.


The next project after the sheds is . . . . nothing. For a little while, anyways.

Then it's inside the house for a number of internal projects. Most involve adding additional lighting to the front room, down the hallway, in the kitchen, etc.

This shed was in lieu of a detached garage. Unlike many people on GJ here, we're on a more modest lot near Seattle, only 10,500 sf (about 1/4 acre). I could have built a 1 1/2 car garage or the shed. I decided to build the shed. A big part of it was a cost issue. The shed could happen now. Or the garage would wait probably 8-10 years out.

Instead, my plan is to use the shed as an extension of our one-car garage. The shed will be where I can store all my tools, equipment, materials, and general stuff. The garage is a bigger area where I can work on projects. I'll bring the tools and equipment in from the shed as i need them based on particular project requirements. When I'm done building something then the tools go back out to the shed.

That said, I'm hoping to do a big of modification to the garage when we do a big remodel on the house in the years ahead. If I can relocate the stairs (4 steps) and stair landing, water heater, and remove the fireplace, I'll pick up an additional 30% of usable garage space. As it is now, the arrangement of these three items screws up space planning and layout in the garage.

 

[lupinsea]

Very, very nice. I agree that painting the furring was the right thing to do. Took me a little bit to understand the rain screen thing- we don't see those in my part of the world too much, it doesn't really rain enough to make them popular.

Yeah. Glad I painted the panels, too. It didn't take long at all to shoot them at the joint lines with the spray paint.

Oof. Going slow. I managed to put up a few more panels last night. And I do mean last night. I was working until 10:30pm getting some of them up. Had a Petzl head lamp strapped on my head working in the dark on the scaffolding to do it. Part of that was also putting a second coat of the semi-transparent stain on the soffit.

The top panels fit right into place without needing to be trimmed at all. It's almost as if I planned the boards for that tight a fit instead of the happy coincidence it was. I was starting to worry I'd have to cut a 1" wide by 12 ft long strip and try to fit that in.

Once I do two more end panels (triangular cuts) and rip a 7" wide strip for the back side I'll be done with the siding on the small shed building.

Installed a few more panels last night.​

BTW, I've been loving the ladder I've been using all summer. Simply awesome in its versatility. It's been working as an A-frame ladder most of the summer which is handy to have a self-supporting ladder. Sometimes it's been folded out as an extension ladder. Here the pieces have been separated and I'm using it as scaffolding. It would have been a major PITA to do the upper siding install / soffit painting with a regular ladder.

 

[brrman]

I agree those folding ladders are awesome - I used one during my house painting project this summer. Very useful on a roof pitch to get an adjacent 2nd story.

The project is looking awesome, btw. I haven't visited this thread in a month or so. Nice to see the progress!

 

[Jack Olsen]

I'll admit, I was expecting stucco. But the siding looks great.

 

[Zengineer]

Fantastic build, great attention to detail. I can't imagine taking this much time to build a shed, but wish I could!

 

[lupinsea]

I'll admit, I was expecting stucco. But the siding looks great.

That's part of the issue with the 3D modeling . . . where do you stop?

You could conceivably model every little component of a building. But to what end? 95% of "every little thing" wouldn't show up in the construction drawings . . . which is the eventual goal that is the usable out put for builder to have something to work with.

So it doesn't make sense to hyper detail the model. But one wants to get to a representative point.

Where I took the shed 3D model was to a point we'd usually get to in our office. . . maybe a step or two back since I didn't bother doing any texture modeling or color selection to indicate siding materials, etc. that I'd do for our clients. This represented a good point from which to develop the construction drawings. Its a good representation of the spacial form and shapes of a design with out going over board. But it is interesting to see how different people react to these things.

We had clients once who were horrified during one of our presentations. . . we modeled their house and a basic stepped terrain model of their property (think those old topographic models out of cardboard). But for clarity we didn't show any trees. They thought we were proposing to chop down all the trees on their land and terrace it like a bunch of hill side rice paddies. They were taking the model a bit too literally.

Now, we could get a lot more detailed with everything . . . but we don't find it's cost effective. The clients don't want to pay the fees associated for that much detail, and if they are fine with what is being produced we don't want to burn up any more time than need be that we can spend actually working on other parts of the project.

Over the last 5-7 years clients have gotten a lot more comfortable with the 3D work and we regularly use the 3D models as a primary discussion tool in client meetings. We hook up a computer to a projector so we can show the image on a massive projector screen about 12 ft across. On the screen we can rotate the model around or do walk-throughs and look at everything. Slice it into sections to look at particular aspects of the design. Even do some real-time changes right there in the meeting if we want to move walls and columns around.

Sure beats the old method of showing them a piece of paper with some lines drawn on it.

 

[lupinsea]

I'll just add a thank you, Jack, for reposting the rendered image. It illustrates a good point with the CGI stuff:

Because I had inadvertently taken a photo from a similar view point as the rendering, you can see very well the similarities to the shapes and form of the shed structure as rendered and to what is built. But most computer models won't convey all the subtleties of reality. What looks cold and sparse on the model actually is a lot more lively in person. It still takes some imagination to make the leap from a presentation image to what it will actually look like when it is built.

 

[banzaitoyota]

I do 3D modeling for a 650,000 ft2 nuclear reprocessing facility. It amazes me the number of engineers who cant grasp a 3D Model.

 

[nonhog]

Very nice! I'm in the very early planning stages of my shed build.
Will be a shed roof shed also(to match my shop and home) just south of you.
In Pierce County we can only build one shed 200 s.f. and it has to follow set back guidelines.

 

[lupinsea]

Very nice! I'm in the very early planning stages of my shed build.
Will be a shed roof shed also(to match my shop and home) just south of you.
In Pierce County we can only build one shed 200 s.f. and it has to follow set back guidelines.

Hey, good to see another Pac NWerner on the board here! Cool.

Yup, I was surprised at how lenient Kenmore was with the shed out building. In Seattle, for example, I think it's a 120 sf limit, though I'm not sure about the set back requirements.

My neighbor came over last night and we were doing some experimenting with the 3D modeling software for his own shed he wants to build in his back yard.

 

[lupinsea]

Finished all the siding work on the small shed building the other night. I'm very pleased with the overall effort as it looks as designed and I'm comfortable with the detailing.

The door and electrical still needs to be done but those can come later, after I finish the siding on the big shed which starts next. It'll be the same process as the small shed.

All the siding panels are on the small shed. The trim
blocking between the rafters turned out nice. It ends
up being slightly proud of the face of the siding panels
and creates a clean, straight line for the siding to
die into. As planned.

Detail image of the intersection between siding
panels, foundation wall, and custom door jambs.

The back of the shed received the same level of
attention. As another architect once said "Architecture
goes all the way around the building".

Oh, and disregard the construction debris on the
ground. I'll clean up soon enough.

The front of the shed. All the lines on the building neat, tidy and purposeful.

The furring strips for the larger shed building
were painted last night. The back side received
full coverage of paint (bare cedar has tanins
that can eat away at building paper). But the
front side is only painted where the panel joints
will be.​

.

 

[carlsondajj]

Very nice! I'm in the very early planning stages of my shed build.
Will be a shed roof shed also(to match my shop and home) just south of you.
In Pierce County we can only build one shed 200 s.f. and it has to follow set back guidelines.

Over here in Kitsap county, we are allowed to build a shed up to 300 s.f. without a permit. We still have to follow the setbacks and covenets.

I have been very impressed with your level of detail. The theme for my build (6 or 7 years ago) was "It's only a shed." It won't win any awards for engineering or aesthetics, but it keeps the rain and the critters out of my stuff.

 

[fireberd350]

I've been following this thread too. The amount of effort/details put into these sheds in mind boggling. Kudos on a job well done.

Question: If the cement siding panels are so fragile to being damaged from nails/hammer, aren't you concerned it will be equally as fragile to normal wear and tear (e.g. wheel barrow accidentally hitting it, or wind knocking some heavy debris into it)?

 

[embludenslob]

this build is AMAZING - look forward to seeing anything new you've posted each day.

I need to jump back in time a little bit (sorry to do so) - I was noticing the rafter vent blocking you put in place on the smaller shed. it would make sense to allow for air venting on all houses I suppose, but as a newbie to new construction I'm ignorant of the need to use vent blocking.
Is this a requirement even if there is no attic space? I'm in the process of building a shed/studio and I'm using 6" rafters - insulation - no attic space and a pitch that is only 3degrees. so I guess my question is simply this, do all roofs require ventilation?

I don't mean to take away from this amazing build thread - I'm just unable to locate a simple answer... can anyone point me in a direction that I can research further. I guess it doesn't hurt to add venting (when correctly done).

thanks

 

[lupinsea]

Thanks guys.

Question: If the cement siding panels are so fragile to being damaged from nails/hammer, aren't you concerned it will be equally as fragile to normal wear and tear (e.g. wheel barrow accidentally hitting it, or wind knocking some heavy debris into it)?

I'm not worried about typical wear and tear. And certainly not any wind driven debris. And I'd have to hit it pretty hard with a wheel barrow to dent this stuff.

It's somewhat tough to describe the fiber cement panels. In one respect they're quite hard and are certainly durable. Provided there's decent bearing. The times I've missed a nailhead with a manual hammer I haven't put any dents into the panel itself (and I missed plenty of hammer strikes).

But put some leverage on a thin edge or surface (thin siding nail shank bending sideways through the material) and it can crush. The panels also can be filed very easily with a hand file. Or cut with a utility knife.

My biggest concern is if I need to lean a ladder up against the wall for future maintenance. The legs of the ladder will introduce point loads. And mostly likely, given the layout of the furring strips, these point loads would happen on either side of one of the furring strips which might cause the panel to snap. But sandwiching a pieces of 2x or plywood between the ladder and siding panels should eliminate this problem as it could span between the furring strips and provide good support to the ladder.

Bottom line: I have zero worries about these panels after handling and working with them so far.

I need to jump back in time a little bit (sorry to do so) - I was noticing the rafter vent blocking you put in place on the smaller shed. it would make sense to allow for air venting on all houses I suppose, but as a newbie to new construction I'm ignorant of the need to use vent blocking.

Vent blocking is typically needed where you have a ventilated roof cavity over a heated, insulated interior volume.

For vaulted ceilings you need to maintain a 1" air gap between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the roof sheathing. And for flat ceilings w/ attics you need to maintain the 1" air gap where the roof slopes down out toward the eaves and exterior wall. At the eaves and at the peak of the roof there needs to be a vent gap with an area ratio equal to 1:150 the roof area of the bay or roof.

For instance, if you have a roof that is 15 ft along the slope and rafters 24" on center (22.5" between inside faces of rafter framing) this represents 4050 sq inches of area per bay (15 ft x 12in/ft x 22.5"wide). Now, 1:150 of that is 27 sq inches. So your vent openings would need to equal 27 sq inches at the eaves and at the peak.

The venting helps prevent ice dams from forming on the roof by letting any residual warm air vent out the peak of the roof. It also help keep moisture from warm air from building up on the underside of a cold roof.

For the sheds this isn't really that critical as the buildings are unheated. However, I did this primarily to keep the structures from getting too stuffy during hot weather. And in the case of the big shed. . . if I ever decided to insulate the walls in the future at least the vent blocking is there and I don't need to mess with that again.

 

[lupinsea]

Starting the siding of the main shed building. Got 90% of the furring strips installed this weekend as well as several panels cut and painted. Further dwindling daylight and rainy weather are really putting a crimp on progress. Starting to do a lot more work well after dark as well as by head lamp.

Second verse, same as the first . . . same processes. Install
furring strips, cut and pre-paint the panels, install the panels.

Siding the back-side of the big shed building.​

 

[embludenslob]

thanks for the great detailed information Lupin.
again - SUCH A GREAT BUILD!

 

[lupinsea]

Because the walls weren’t kept absolutely square and plumb (they very by up to 1/4” on a 10 ft vertical wall) it is making it tricky to install the siding panels and maintain consistent panel gaps. For most of the walls, only 2-3 courses at a time can be installed before things need to be remeasured. This is to ensure vertical gaps between panels maintain as much consistency as possible and are aligned and plumb.

To date this hasn’t been a major limiting factor since the painting rack only holds so many panels. I find there is a nice correlation between the number of panels I can install during a given amount of time and how many the paint rack can hold.

More so with this phase of the build process than ever before, daylight is in short supply. Daylight savings time has not arrived yet and the skies are getting dark enough to require work lights by 6:30pm. By 6:50pm it’s almost pitch black on cloudless nights. Compared to the height of summer this is a loss of nearly 3 hours of daylight per day or 15 hours per week. In other words a significant loss of light.

This greatly limits the amount of daylight hours mostly to the weekends and maybe 30-45 minutes after I get home from work throughout the week. To make the most of it I try to get siding panels cut and painted the night before so they are all ready to nail up the following day. Even so, much of the installation work is being done at night by head lamp.

Starting to do more work in the dark out side. Can't help it, it's either this or stuff doesn't get done.

Installing siding on the east side of the building at night.

Working by work light.

Inside the shed the panels are cut, painted, and
set on the painting racks to dry so they are ready
to go the next day.​

.

 

[lupinsea]

Wow, it has seeming been a while since I posted last. Still working on the shed. Things still going slow. Weather is getting colder. It was actually snowing this morning.

Not all that much has happened. Several more siding panels were installed since the last post. Most of the three walls are sided and the furring strips were put up on the 4th wall this weekend along with the installation of the door jamb. And I started work on a wall sconce for some exterior light.

The door jamb for the big shed is now installed. Boy, hope
I got the jambs plumbed properly. Each side is plumb to itself,
Just not sure how they are aligned to each other. Never
installed door jambs before.

Took a break for and went to Hawaii
for a week. Now that I'm back from
the tropics it's snowing. Whee.

Before I left I managed to get most of the siding up on three walls.
The door jamb is in. And the furring strips for the north wall.

With the temps down in the near freezing range it's
not good to try and paint the panels. So I'm doing
something else. Starting to construct the walls sconces..

Not finding anything off the shelf in A: my price range
and B: something that I liked enough I decided to build
my own light fixtures. I wanted to wire them into the
landscape lighting circuit so I figured I'd re-use some
left over landscape lights. They were free and the bulb
housing, gasket, lens, etc is already there.

The assembled wall bracket w/ off-the-shelf bulb housing
is on top. The component pieces of scrap steel below.
Basically, I assembled this with some time and left over
bits and pieces from around the house.

The light points downward and with the baffle there shouldn't
be any glare from the bulb. Holes are drilled so that it'll
bolt right up to a standard j-box. I'll need to remove the
lamp holder portion and pain the steel black before final
installation.​

 

[c5golfguy]

Looking good man.

But why didn't you stagger the cuts on your siding??

 

[embludenslob]

perfect homemade sconces Lupin....good idea to tie into the landscape lighting. I'm going to snag that idea for sure =).

do you plan to paint or seal the exposed wood? - I personally like the contrast of the blue and the natural wood. if you plan to seal it, what will you seal it in?

 

[lupinsea]

Looking good man.

But why didn't you stagger the cuts on your siding??

The panel joints are open 5/16" gaps and are part of the siding pattern. I could have staggered them but I like the look of a clean and regular grid pattern. Lends it a more modern look.

perfect homemade sconces Lupin....good idea to tie into the landscape lighting. I'm going to snag that idea for sure =).

do you plan to paint or seal the exposed wood? - I personally like the contrast of the blue and the natural wood. if you plan to seal it, what will you seal it in?

Thanks. I'm excited to see how the lighting turns out. It simply made sense for me to tie it into the landscape lighting. I mean, it's on a timer that comes on and shuts off by itself. No need to wire in a three-way circuit just for two lights. At a set time each day the light will turn on in case I need to go out there and it will shut off about midnight or 1am automatically. And the low-voltage stuff is easy to work with.

Of course, after doing the fab work I realize that (I think) I could have just gotten 12v RV bulbs and put those in a traditional wall sconce fixture. After all, it's not so much the fixture itself but the bulb that is important to match for the low volt applications. It would have saved the fab work and probably have resulted in a better looking light fixture.

As to the wood. . . . it'll be stained with a semi-transparent blonde color. I've already applied it to the small shed building so if you want see what it looks like scroll back to see the "finished siding" on the small shed structure.




In any case, I'm waiting on the final coat of paint on the siding until spring and I'm probably going to wait until spring to do the staining, too.

This week I needed to pause on the siding painting and install as temps dropped into the 20's along with the snow. The paint would have frozen before it had a chance to dry. It looks like temps should be back up in the 40's starting next week or so.

 

[embludenslob]

Of course, after doing the fab work I realize that (I think) I could have just gotten 12v RV bulbs and put those in a traditional wall sconce fixture. After all, it's not so much the fixture itself but the bulb that is important to match for the low volt applications.

for what it's worth - (to me) it makes great sense to use what you already have.

good luck with the weather - stay safe. NW looks tough right now.

 

[lupinsea]

for what it's worth - (to me) it makes great sense to use what you already have.

good luck with the weather - stay safe. NW looks tough right now.

Thanks.

Weather wise this is about normal for the winter in the NW other than the odd dusting of snow we got and the cold snap. Temps are back to normal (high 30's to mid 40's) and we're back to normal weather (overcast, some drizzle here or there, patches of sun this weekend).

 

[lupinsea]

Despite the 4 days from Thanksgiving to Sunday, very little noticeable progress happened on the shed. Thanksgiving was spent with family. Got a lot of stuff prepped for the shed on Friday after morning errands. Saturday morning was spent at the gun range with my cousin. That afternoon I pulled the wiring between the two shed buildings (fun). Sunday I needed to replace the bent axle shaft on my Jeep (between a late start and a couple trips to the parts store that blew out the day, still not finished). Then church in the evening and dinner. But, Sunday night at 9pm I did manage to install 6 panels I had prepped on Friday.

Starting to install the siding on the north wall about 9pm on Sunday.​

 

[lupinsea]

Being close enough to getting the wall sconces finished I've been working on that and pulling the electrical wires the last several days instead of doing the siding.

Now that the sconces are installed I'll be getting back to the siding. All in all I'm very pleased with how the sconces did turn out. From the finish, functionality, and the quality of light they provide: just enough but not too much and no glare. And they are wired into the landscape lighting which comes on and gets turned off automatically with the timer built-in to the transformer.

Wall sconce with painted bracket mounted on the light block.

Nice quality of light from the sconces. Enough to see by and navigate from building to building without being too much light, and with out any glare.
This is one reason I chose to re-use the landscape fixture, they did a good
job of shielding the light bulb from direct view.​

 

[Amitygravel]

They look great lupinsea. Definitely show off the inside of them when you get to that.

 

[lupinsea]

Thanks.

I'll take some pix of the inside once the painting rack is gone, the floor is cleaned up, and the wiring chase is in at the bottom of the wood wall. It'll be toward the end of the project but that might not be too far out.

I'm thinking I have another week-ish before I'm finish with the siding. Then doors and electrical and back filling the foundation.

 

[lupinsea]

Ah! Finally!

I reached a major milestone with the shed: All the siding is now installed.

And it only took 2 months. Oh well. It's all done now. I'll do the final top coat of paint and soffit staining in the spring when there's more consistent, better weather.

The project is heading toward completion. This weekend I hauled a bunch of construction debris off to the transfer station, knocked down the painting racks on the inside of the big shed, moved some storage shelving into the big shed my neighbor gave me, did some general clean up. And now I'm starting to drill the holes and cut some blocking for the electrical work.

After that, doors and more foundation back filling and the sheds are done.

Finally, siding is all finished. Lots of small detailed cuts to fit the
last panels tight to the roofline.

Pretty close resemblance between the model-based drawing and the actual
built structure. I'm very pleased with how things have turned out.

Closer shot of the north face of the big shed building.​

 

[mrb]

very nice, i love it. good job on the siding.

FYI, (and i dont know how you wired it) i do not believe its code to run landscape wire in a structure -its not a listed wire type. You would have to use something with a CL2 rating if powered by a class 2 power supply, or if the power supply's output is greater than class 2 you have to use romex, MC, or pipe and thwn.

 

[lupinsea]

Thanks for the heads up on the electrical. I'll look into seeing what I put in. I figured a 12v feed shouldn't be a big issue.

 

[lupinsea]

Marching on . . .

Starting to install the blocking and trim for the lower wainscoting / wire chase. Each of the blocks is custom measured and cut for a tight fit. 1/2" CDX plywood panels will be screwed on below the rail height (which is set at work bench height) and flush out with the face of the concrete wall (hence why the wall studs were held back 1/2" from the inside face of the foundation). Flanking the window will be some additional panel "back splash" where I'll mount a pair of outlets . . . planning ahead for a future work bench.

Using 2x4 SPF blocking between the studs with a 1x2 "white
wood" (probably the same as the SPF grade for the studs) as
a cap to run over the face of the studs. This forms a nice
trimmed out cap that stand 1/4" proud of the plywood panels
that will be fitted below this datum.

This is the corner near the door where the work
bench will go. The raised wainscoting wraps around
onto the door wall to provide a panel to cover the
wires leading to the light switch.

I even cut and fitted small pieces of 2x4 between
the closely spaced wall studs where they occur.

This is a mock up of what it'll look like when the
lower panels are installed. A little cleaner look to
the base of the wall.​

 

[Motown 454]

It looks great nice progress.