Show us your arbor press!

[Nutria]

There are some nice presses in this thread. I have three, but all are small: No. 1 and 2 Greenerds and a 3.5 ton Canedy-Otto ratcheting press, which is probably the most interesting.

 

[Straightgrain]

Here's a 1/2 ton KR Wilson I picked up earlier this year for $20. From what I gather, KR Wilson made tools more or less exclusively for Ford Motor early on then transitioned to making tools for the government around 1941. I don't know why the "Property of USA" was stamped into the name plate.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Daisy wheels, slotted bolsters, what ever you want to call them aren't difficult. Those for myself over the years were rotary table, roughing cutter and milling machine, then opened on vertical bandsaw. I scale the thickness roughly 1/3 opening of the throat, arrange slots so they are ALWAYS supported at outside edges.
It's worthwhile to have a blank rectangular plate too, attached with 2 loose dowels and two socket screws (from underneath or above). Perfect when straightening, supporting two vee blocks and mag base indicator.
Then laser and plasma cutting were brought to market. Flame cutting is fine too, if the carburized edges will not touch your part.

 

[kenc184]

Well, I needed this like a hole in the head, I already have a small Dake hydraulic press but I just can't turn down good US made tools if the price is right and this was $105. I would have preferred a ratcheting press, but this isn't one, just a 3 ton Dake #1. Great condition though, just some surface rust. Really not sure how much use this will get? Weighs about 110lbs.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Everybody wants a press, most without a need in sight. So they paint them as display pieces, lowering potential use farther yet!
Starting here, uses will become apparent as you work.

Step 1. Mount to rigid stand, bearing on the pads underneath press, without obstructing the opening. Remember, some parts [like axles] need room below....
Step 2. Keep the slotted plate, and scrounge long rectangular steel one. 1" thick is sufficient, you can weld gussets or drill and tap for jackscrews as reinforcement. Next time you are straightening, this forms bed for V-blocks.
Step 3. Remove the ram, drill and bore or ream a 1/2" central hole about 1.5" deep, cross drill for two 1/4"-20 setscrews. This allows conversion for tooling, especially holders for smaller pin punches. Turn a mushroom for normal use, protecting the newly bored hole. Use flat point setscrews or mill small flats; cup points distort diameter, making removal a problem.
Step 4. With 2 pieces of rod stock, 1/4" to 3/8" diameter [depending on gear rack size] set them in two teeth, two or three teeth apart, measuring distance outside to outside. Deduct 1 pin diameter, this calculates distance between centers selected. Build a block holding those pins that clamps to ram, adding a fine thread screw to land on head of the frame. This will adjust accurately, stopping travel repeatedly; long as the screw protrudes, extending about distance of two teeth.
Step 5. Extra Credit.....I use a simple pointer on a magnet stuck to ram, and a 6" scale also on a magnet, but on the frame. This helps indicate depths, where there is no land or blind hole to indicate same. Also handy when straightening, when known travel attains desired deflection.

Don't paint stuff until you are satisfied with completion.

I don't and won't do videos or plead for subscriptions. I rarely add CAD drawings, pix, sketches, or drafted drawings. As mentor, and mentee alike, my belief says there is little benefit steering someone into MY concept, compared to pointing them in a possible direction, nearly forcing their own visualization take charge.
Apt descriptions have generated patents and monumental construction for hundreds of years...

 

[compunaut]

I picked up an old Dake Model 1-1/2 Ratchet Lever Arbor press (including a stand) at a good low price a couple days ago. It's 3ton capacity and weighs around 150lb.
However, it's seized up pretty solid, the handle is broken off, and is missing pawl, pawl pin & rest pin. Guess I'll try some PB Blaster (or similar) to try to loosen things up. Any other suggestions? Wasn't really looking for another project right now, but it seemed to be begging for a good home.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Should be able to take the ram out by removing the front plate. Then take off the handwheel on the left side. At that point everything else can be slid to the right. Might want to take off the big handle and counterweight (if possible) before doing any percussive maintenance though.

 

[autobon7]

Everybody wants a press, most without a need in sight. So they paint them as display pieces, lowering potential use farther yet!
Starting here, uses will become apparent as you work.

Step 1. Mount to rigid stand, bearing on the pads underneath press, without obstructing the opening. Remember, some parts [like axles] need room below....
Step 2. Keep the slotted plate, and scrounge long rectangular steel one. 1" thick is sufficient, you can weld gussets or drill and tap for jackscrews as reinforcement. Next time you are straightening, this forms bed for V-blocks.
Step 3. Remove the ram, drill and bore or ream a 1/2" central hole about 1.5" deep, cross drill for two 1/4"-20 setscrews. This allows conversion for tooling, especially holders for smaller pin punches. Turn a mushroom for normal use, protecting the newly bored hole. Use flat point setscrews or mill small flats; cup points distort diameter, making removal a problem.
Step 4. With 2 pieces of rod stock, 1/4" to 3/8" diameter [depending on gear rack size] set them in two teeth, two or three teeth apart, measuring distance outside to outside. Deduct 1 pin diameter, this calculates distance between centers selected. Build a block holding those pins that clamps to ram, adding a fine thread screw to land on head of the frame. This will adjust accurately, stopping travel repeatedly; long as the screw protrudes, extending about distance of two teeth.
Step 5. Extra Credit.....I use a simple pointer on a magnet stuck to ram, and a 6" scale also on a magnet, but on the frame. This helps indicate depths, where there is no land or blind hole to indicate same. Also handy when straightening, when known travel attains desired deflection.

Don't paint stuff until you are satisfied with completion.

I don't and won't do videos or plead for subscriptions. I rarely add CAD drawings, pix, sketches, or drafted drawings. As mentor, and mentee alike, my belief says there is little benefit steering someone into MY concept, compared to pointing them in a possible direction, nearly forcing their own visualization take charge.
Apt descriptions have generated patents and monumental construction for hundreds of years...

You should make a video In all seriousness the above is all great advise. Anywhere close to STL?

 

[dwall174]

Don't paint stuff until you are satisfied with completion.

I'm starting to agree with that line of thinking!
As I mentioned in POST# 329
"In My Case" once a machine starts looking good then they seem likely to find another home.

Doug

 

[calandrod]

I picked up an old Dake Model 1-1/2 Ratchet Lever Arbor press (including a stand) at a good low price a couple days ago. It's 3ton capacity and weighs around 150lb.
However, it's seized up pretty solid, the handle is broken off, and is missing pawl, pawl pin & rest pin. Guess I'll try some PB Blaster (or similar) to try to loosen things up. Any other suggestions? Wasn't really looking for another project right now, but it seemed to be begging for a good home.

Dake still sells parts. I am restoring the same press and ordered missing parts from them. They have detailed drawings and Free manuals too.

 

[calandrod]

I just posted this to Tool Polishers Haven as well but I recently finished this Dake Ratcheting 3 ton No 1/1/2 Arbor Press. It came out of an aircraft factory and eventually I paid $175 for it. The paint color is a PPG custom blue based off of a 1930’s Baldor Grinder grinder I have. From the research I’ve done, it seems to be 1950’s due to the brass data plate which they switched to something else shortly thereafter. It took about three days tk finish the restoration. There was 3 coats of paint layered on it including a baby blue which I found interesting.

 

[Hephaestus29]

I like that Blue, Restoration looks nice.

 

[whateg01]

Didn't see another Acco in the bunch, so here's mine. I had never seen one before, and now I've seen pics of 3 of them in the past couple weeks. I haven't gotten it mounted yet. I was going to put it on the side of my hydraulic press, but it's so heavy that with only a little load, it will want to tip the hydraulic press over, so I will have to build a leg or an outrigger for it.

I also have a couple of Greenerds but those are far more common, so no pics taken. In fact this pic isn't even mine; it was from the ad when I bought it!

Dave

Just ran across an identical arbor press, but with the name Manley instead of Acco. I wonder how many other brands this one was sold under.

 

[brownbagg]

hrginc.com has a bunch for sale

 

[Toolmaker51]

Question for folks on nomenclature: what are the correct names for the fixtures people mount on the end of the ram? I see lots of press names for the Etsy / leather working crowd, but I am looking for ways to mount a pin on the end of my vintage Dake one ton press for driving pins out of broken tools, etc. I have a jacobs chuck that I’ve attached with a magnet, and used a dull drill for the pin, unspiraled end down. (as seen online). Broke the magnet today trying to press a breaker bar pivot out.

As mine is a very short throat, I would prefer to use something shorter than a regular Starrett punch held in a drill chuck. I am looking for the correct names so I can see what other people are doing, here and elsewhere. I don’t have the tools to carefully drill a hole in the end of my ram, so looking for clever ways to attach things, and strong pins to drive things out.

Thanks for any ideas of phrases to search for.

My recommendation is drill and bore or ream a good hole, drill and tap through one side for a set screw. Then what ever tooling you make fits a standard stem. An angled cut on that should push the tool, seating on face of the ram. Hole could be a decent depth, when not being used, a 'mushroom', blocks it and preserves the hole. That same idea applies to self-made items, they'd better have a solid seat that ISN'T bottom of the hole. All my presses (soap opera for mechanics) are modified in the same manner. I use end mill shanks as sizes, in some mysterious proportion with dimensions of the ram.
Particular names aren't distinctive, commonly are named by who specified or made it. There will be next to zero commercially available tooling, due to endless adaptations. ''We'' would classify it 'end of ram tooling' then a part number, or size, something related to what it's for.
Punches and broaches (my new band) break when maintaining less than perfect axial alignment of entire tool and ram. Not any different than bending a nail driven by a hammer. Next, is wrong proportion of tool itself, too long and slender for load applied.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Pickup up a couple of swivel plates for mine. They're made by 7 Rivers Surplus, pricing is:

5" @ $9
8" @ $15
10" @ $25
12" @ $35

I grabbed a 5" for my press and an 8" to have hanging around in case I ever get a larger arbor press, I figured at the price was good why not.

I wasn't familiar with 7 Rivers Surplus, noted in their web ad "The Man Store", includes a photo; with only trucks in the parking lot. Not to say the fairer of our species don't wheel around in them; the picture is devoid of EV's, hybrids, and various douch-mobiles too small to carry fun home.
But it's bookmarked; and not outside my radius of hunting grounds.

 

[matt_i]

Best friend of an arbor press is a lathe and I'll probably keep posting this my whole life. (Maybe I should print out my manifesto and attach it to the arbor presses lol). I have a drawer full of seemingly random washers, pins, tubes, pipes, plates with holes drilled or punched in them. Then the closest one gets adapted to whatever is being worked on. Perfect to have punches which are .020" undersize or punch shoulders which only press on the OD of a bearing race and are undercut to leave the inner race untouched, but a nice little pilot to keep everything concentric.

 

[calandrod]

Pickup up a couple of swivel plates for mine. They're made by 7 Rivers Surplus, pricing is:

5" @ $9
8" @ $15
10" @ $25
12" @ $35

I grabbed a 5" for my press and an 8" to have hanging around in case I ever get a larger arbor press, I figured at the price was good why not.

Sure beats the $85 I paid directly to Dake for my replacement plate and a few other parts.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Press plates anyone?
Annular cutters and vertical bandsaw. A lathe, faceplate a couple drills to open holes and bandsaw. Narrow blades and nothing but a bandsaw. Rotary table and milling machine. Friendly welder with a pattern torch. Local laser or plasma shop.
Nothing says they have to be round; just flat-ish.
Layout a pattern knowing the throat depth, distance to the pin and center of ram. Can't believe how people obsess over those plates. I'll bet half the arbor presses in use, have other materials as furniture.

 

[davethorik]

Just ran across an identical arbor press, but with the name Manley instead of Acco. I wonder how many other brands this one was sold under.

I am not sure of the time frame, but ACCO stands for American Chain Co., they owned Manley Mfg. I have an ACCO bench vise and learned this after a little research.

 

[Toolmaker51]

A two-fer! Show Us Your Arbor Press and some anecdotal shop-building history. Not to trump anyone, but shop houses four; 1/4 ton to 7 ton.
One-er-. Speaking of Manley, (and unsure exactly at 05:41 Pacific Standard Time who they were/ are) my humble little gantry crane's beam is labeled "Manley". Entire frame is shop fabbed, I got it used almost 20 years ago @ $200, that's the only legitimate material on her. At only 1/2 ton capacity, it's still been a life saver.
Two-er Got this arbor press off safely, so....... only 183 pounds over! In over 50 years working, 35+ of moving gear, worst thing ever to ratchet down. Pic below just first stop of trip Kansas to PA and back. Recommendation; add handful of small endless web slings to your rigging kit! In fact, make that 2 handfuls.

Back to One-er. Hauling gantry home in my little Toyota pick up, one of my earliest 'millwright and rigging' adventures. At least it was down into parts.
Could/ should have trailered it; front tires had touched ground more often. Lol now, holi-moley & holi-**** back then. You can't build a shop without ramping up what supports it.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I love having an arbor press, but I've never used it, I always go to the hydraulic press. Always looking for another arbor press, they're just cool, but it's of no use to me, but I still need (want) to get another one.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Forgot pic

 

[whateg01]

I love having an arbor press, but I've never used it, I always go to the hydraulic press. Always looking for another arbor press, they're just cool, but it's of no use to me, but I still need (want) to get another one.

Can't beat an arbor press for things that require feel. I have a couple of arbor presses and a couple hydraulic presses and they all get used. Well one hydraulic needs rebuilt right now so it's not getting used.

 

[Toolmaker51]

I love having an arbor press, but I've never used it, I always go to the hydraulic press. Always looking for another arbor press, they're just cool, but it's of no use to me, but I still need (want) to get another one.

I'd warrant if you used it and got the feel, it would see use. If for no other reason than sense and appreciate what a proper bearing fit is. Everything about bearing longevity starts with size and roundness of that hole.
Because they can be manipulated comparatively quick, it's not uncommon to start parts in an arbor press, and seat them in a hydraulic.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I'd warrant if you used it and got the feel, it would see use. If for no other reason than sense and appreciate what a proper bearing fit is. Everything about bearing longevity starts with size and roundness of that hole.
Because they can be manipulated comparatively quick, it's not uncommon to start parts in an arbor press, and seat them in a hydraulic.

I'm going to make an effort to use it, just haven't had much press work. Hyd press sees more time straightening stuff, lol.

 

[davethorik]

not an arbor press per se, but close enough.
P.A. Geier Co. no. 3A straightening press.

the company may not sound familiar, but they went on to make Dirt Devil vacuum cleaners. i believe this press to be over 100 years old.
this came out of an old time machine shop that worked exclusively in brass.

i have the bar, centers, v-blocks, and some other misc tooling. the only thing missing is the cross bar handle which just looks like round stock. this thing would have gone to scrap if i did not intervene. it was so cool i had to save it.

 

[Toolmaker51]

not an arbor press per se, but close enough.
P.A. Geier Co. no. 3A straightening press.................it was so cool i had to save it.

Not an arbor press?
Says who; I just googled "what is an arbor press". Most all results illustrate a ram driven by rack and pinion, overwhelmingly the mechanism of choice. But the arbor or ram is the central feature, not so much what powers it. So, I'm not sure how the word arbor (or less used term "mandrel") applies to these details. It very well could be 'arbor assembly press".
I've seen many screw presses, never one gear operated. That is superlative to a handwheel directly driving a screw. I've never seen anything like it. Thread already has me thinking about screw press construction, it will now incorporate this.

 

[huckaberry]

Royersford foundry & machine co. made in Royersford , Penn. USA press #3 / 3 ton / dia. of work 15 1/4" / cap. over table 12 3/4 / ram 1 1/2" sq. / leverage ratio 50 : 1 / 220 pounds........ i found these specs. in a catalog dated 1949
Craigslist find a couple months ago @ $250 , i thought it was a reasonable price considering very good original condition .
i've searched and only found only a couple of these , then searched more to find out the company is still in buisness in Penn.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Not surprised with arbor presses in their catalog, but unknown. My familiarity centers on kick presses; something else you guys can scour for.
There goes market price; ^. Can't envision many uses without access to a lathe and/ or mill.
YMMV

 

[whateg01]

...
There goes market price; ^. Can't envision many uses without access to a lathe and/ or mill.
YMMV

No idea what that's supposed to mean. I use my lathe and mill to make tooling for my arbor press, but I do a lot of stuff that has nothing to do with machine tools at all. I straighten material. I press assemblies together. Maybe you're a troll.

 

[huckaberry]

im not sure what you mean "unknown" in catalog , go to vintage machinery , it's there in print , im not sure your point on mill/ lathe pertains to me but i do have a mill and a lathe , i restore vintage motorcycles / cars and have lotsa uses pushing bearings / bushings etc. / bracket fab. small brackets in v block etc. ..... my recent intention for this press is for pressing camshaft bushings in alloy engine casings , a hydro press is a little clumsy for this , the hand press has a better feel..... as far as price it's about 1/2 what iv'e been seeing lately and i don't have the time to wait around a year for a beat up $50. special , i use my stuff

 

[huckaberry]

thanks whateg01 , i was typing same time you were but expressing same point . this is just my 3rd post here and feeling a little unwelcome lol

 

[whateg01]

thanks whateg01 , i was typing same time you were but expressing same point . this is just my 3rd post here and feeling a little unwelcome lol

Some people are a little high and mighty around here. The type who never make mistakes, never eat at McDonald's, never do stuff the way others do it. Overall it's pretty laid back though. If you really want to get beat up, go post something at practical machinist about a harbor freight bandsaw!

 

[Toolmaker51]

Unknown means unfamiliar; versus nonexistent. To paraphrase, "didn't know they had arbor presses too......." Rather clearly stated "My familiarity centers on........". led into realization a well represented kick press company also making arbor presses. Therefore, unknown also indicates many trade names don't reflect entire product line.
----------
The connection drawn between machine tools and kick presses extends with their designed purpose. They mount small diesets (punch & die) for lightweight piercing, forming, and small particular assemblies. Such tooling is a real challenge without basic machine tools. There was neither a slight or hint manual presses were ever secondary choices. A .0002 or .0003 bearing fit is undetectable under power.
-----------
When any group gets exposed to a new method, interest creates demand, hence potential for price increase. Many old processes, if economical, compact and/ or decently efficient, subject to same phenomena.
------------
Web content is rather broad, on both sides of any post. Brevity and misinterpretation aren't reasons for tossing derogatory labels, especially when speculative in nature.

 

[huckaberry]

Toolmaker51 , again , i do not understand your response , what makes you think i meant "didn't know they made arbor presses too" ?
and not sure where a kick press has anything to do with my post here , i was simply showing a press i recently acquired in a thread called " show us your arbor press " and my intent was to share make/model/specs information to users here , that's all !

 

[huckaberry]

thanks again whateg01 !....... fyi , i make mistakes , eat at McDonalds and sometimes ruin 2 or 3 parts till the last one comes out goood lol !

 

[Toolmaker51]

holi-moli, didn't refer to you. What's to understand in I (me) didn't know, haven't seen or use 1 out of the many brands of arbor press. The post focus (within thread) on a Royersford brand. I use my Dake, Greenerd, Yuasa, Weaver.
Two sentences of interjection aren't a hack, nor justify the extent of this.
sheesh.
btw-fwiw found the troll

https://tinyurl.com/mrx3bndr

 

[iagsxr]

thanks whateg01 , i was typing same time you were but expressing same point . this is just my 3rd post here and feeling a little unwelcome lol

FWIW I've been here a long time and I too have no idea what that other guy is going on about.

Stay and post.

 

[calandrod]

Royersford foundry & machine co. made in Royersford , Penn. USA press #3 / 3 ton / dia. of work 15 1/4" / cap. over table 12 3/4 / ram 1 1/2" sq. / leverage ratio 50 : 1 / 220 pounds........ i found these specs. in a catalog dated 1949
Craigslist find a couple months ago @ $250 , i thought it was a reasonable price considering very good original condition .
i've searched and only found only a couple of these , then searched more to find out the company is still in buisness in Penn.

That’s sweet