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Show us your cool, "old" drill press

ndfan6464

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That base was an option, it's the standard splayed foot base. I believe Outlaw was suggesting that the drill press also came with another optional base that held the Saw and Joiner as well.

The price isn't unrealistic but if you're patient you may find a much more capable machine for the same price range.


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Definitely not a need. A friend who does picking for a living sent it to me and asked if I was interested in it since I collect old tools.. The table is cool and was thinking of just getting it for the table for my 30 Craftsman DP..
 
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ndfan6464

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I like that base. I have that D/P
I think it's pretty cool.
What's the Hardboard looking collar for on the column?
Mine has it, but I thought it was something the PO put there.
Mine still needs restored/..
Guess not much love for those here?

I think they look cool as well.. I am not sure what it is. I don't have it in my possession right now. I am assuming that since it can be folded down when attached to some other machine that these could be put on that maybe it protects the neck? So there isn't metal to metal contact??

I haven't decided if I'll keep, sell it or restore it then sell or restore and keep..lol...

Love those stands as well... Seen them go for a pretty penny on Evil Bay
 

Outlawmws

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I like that base. I have that D/P
I think it's pretty cool.
What's the Hardboard looking collar for on the column?
Mine has it, but I thought it was something the PO put there.
Mine still needs restored/..
Guess not much love for those here?

It's not that there is no love for them; its a perfectly fine DP within its limits. Its roughly the equivalent of the small Craftsman mod. 80's, only 4 speeds and with 1/3 HP, a bit under powered. For light use/wood working, its not a bad DP. its not for heavy drilling in metal with big drills and not for getting deep inside a larger part...

That one is just too much $$ for too little DP.
 

ndfan6464

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Definitely understand what your saying. Maybe I'll slap a 1/2 HP motor to it get a bigger pipe for it and make a floor press out of it hahaha...
 

454ragtop

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Carver, MA
Definitely understand what your saying. Maybe I'll slap a 1/2 HP motor to it get a bigger pipe for it and make a floor press out of it hahaha...

The base is too small to be a floor base. Also note that model uses bronze bushings rather than actual bearings in the quill, something else to look out for.
 

Craptain

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It's a little spendy for my pocket but if it is within your budget go take a look. Personally I have only paid that much once for a dp. And it is a heavier duty in first rate condition. That Craftsman would have to be pristine for that price.
But take a look and make an offer. Don't forget to check out mechanicals before appearance.

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bubinga

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It's not that there is no love for them; its a perfectly fine DP within its limits. Its roughly the equivalent of the small Craftsman mod. 80's, only 4 speeds and with 1/3 HP, a bit under powered. For light use/wood working, its not a bad DP. its not for heavy drilling in metal with big drills and not for getting deep inside a larger part...

That one is just too much $$ for too little DP.
l got you. I didn't know? :beer:
No one said one word when I posted mine. :dunno:
He had 150.00 on it, no stand. I e mailed, offered $75.00, he took it.

I understand, I don't want it for nothing big. :pimpflash
 

Davefr

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1. The motor does not look original and it appears to be wired with unsafe lamp cord. (maybe a washing machine motor??) I'd never use an old machine like that without a ground conductor in the wiring.
2. Only one speed??? Where's the step pulley on the motor?? It could be tough and expensive to find a step pulley.
3. The stand takes up too much floor space. If you want a floor model then buy a floor model.
4. Price is way too high given all the problems.
 
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Muttly

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Dec 11, 2007
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Auction Score!!

1947 with foot feed, 3/4 HP and the two way vice.

6468556_0.jpg


Dragged it home and put it to work.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Sep 24, 2013
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Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
Picked up this home made oxy-acet. dolly for $20.00. There was this old scrap post drill bolted to the dolly. I can't wait to get rid of the drill press so I can see what kind of score I got on the dolly....







 

jkherd

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Southwest Missouri
Here is my trusty old drill press, picked it up for a song a few years ago. Just needed to be cleaned up and replaced the cord and the switch. Runs great and the arbor has no play. According to the model # it was built in 1937.
 

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bl00

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Finished this one recently. ndfan6464 sent me a sticker for the side, but I haven't put it on yet.
 

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drivesitfar

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ALL: i just noticed my old Canedy-Otto drill press'es leather belt is starting to crack. is there something i can put on it to keep it from cracking and more pliable? maybe even shoe polish or do tell?
 

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hemifalcon

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Here's my lil and medium Craftsman drill presses.. the medium machine has Vari-slow, but I'm not sure the belts are sized right.. the smaller of the two probably could use motor bearings--but I'm not too worried about it.. she's made it this far!


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-Brent-

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ALL: i just noticed my old Canedy-Otto drill press'es leather belt is starting to crack. is there something i can put on it to keep it from cracking and more pliable? maybe even shoe polish or do tell?

I would try neetsfoot oil on the outside surface, but it's days are numbered...

Make sure it's pure neatsfoot, though. Prime or the other one (can't recall the name at the moment) have mineral oil in them. The ONLY thing to use should be animal based.

In the old days, the best bet to a long-lasting belt was an animal-based dressing, like lard or a mixture of lard and cod liver oil. You warm the lard so that it's viscous and mix in the cod liver oil and apply it.

While pure neatsfoot is recommended by leather belt manufacturers, I've spoken with guys that have had belts for more than 40 years that were dressed with lard (beef tallow) or lard/cod liver oil mixture.

Also, it looks like you have the hair side out. The hair side is, from what I have always understood, the side you'd want on the pulley as it has the most friction.

If you're not using it all that often, I'd release the tension on the belt.
 
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Outlawmws

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Pure Neetsfoot oil IS an animal product, made from cow shin and foot bones (not hooves)

I treated my 2" belt from High school and its still going strong... :ninja:
 

-Brent-

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Pure Neetsfoot oil IS an animal product, made from cow shin and foot bones (not hooves)

I treated my 2" belt from High school and its still going strong... :ninja:

That's right. But Prime isn't 100% and it's easier to find that around here.

Point is, not all neatsfoot is pure.
 

Alchymist

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ALL: i just noticed my old Canedy-Otto drill press'es leather belt is starting to crack. is there something i can put on it to keep it from cracking and more pliable? maybe even shoe polish or do tell?

Outlaw is probably right - looks like it's days are numbered. Might try:
 

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tombell572

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Drives--as Outlaw said, neatsfoot oil. My line shaft and most of my machines run on leather and I've been using it for about 30 years. Cannedys are among the nicest d/p's made. I have a Cannedy floor drill with similar 2-speed cone that I haven't gotten to yet.

John Knox at http://www.leatherdrivebelts.com is a good source for leather belting if you don't have one already. Of course there's McMaster but John's a good guy and I like dealing with him.

Tom B.
 

ndfan6464

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So what's the advantage of leather belts over rubber? Forgive my ignorance. But I am new to all of this and learning
 
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