Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nothing. Leather was used prior to rubber belts being available and up to the job. Most of these machines are a century or more old...
Show us your cool, "old" drill press
- Thread starter rickairmedic
- Start date
tombell572
Well-known member
ndfan--probably not many advantages. Current fabric/rubber composition belts seem to grip very well and perhaps better than leather and are cheaper although i am no expert in power transmission. I'm old school, my machines are old, I work on old bikes and other stuff that people drag in and I just like it that way.
Tom B.
Tom B.
I feel you on the old school..I am the same way. Build old bikes and old cars with old tools...I was born in the wrong era for sure.
So what era was leather used over rubber? I am just now getting feet wet with old power tools. All my old tools are hand tools... Now that I've given up restoring bikes I've gotten into machines and I am OCD when it comes to period correct. So if I build a machine that would have used leather then that's what I'll put on it.. so far my machines are a 39 Craftsman DP and Band saw and now working on a 47 Walker Turner DP..
drivesitfar
Well-known member
ALL: thanks for the 411 on leather treatment using NEATFOOT.
Neatsfoot looks like it's got a couple or maybe more QUALITIES of it and here's Wikipedia's comment:
After cattle are slaughtered, the feet and lower leg bones, including the skin but not the hooves are boiled. The oil that is released is skimmed off, filtered and pressed. The first pressing is the highest grade, the second pressing produces a lower grade oil and a solid press cake or stearin product.
it looks like i can get a gallon of it for around $6.
ND: my Canedy-Otto DP is i think from the mid 1920's, but i haven't found an exact match in a catalog for it yet. here's another picture of mine and if you do a search or read more of this thread there are several bigger versions of my DP on here. there are also replacement belts made out of vinyl if leather is too expensive on your restorations.
Brent: i didn't know loosening the tension on the leather belt would improve the life of it when not in use so i'll have to see if that works to maybe get me a few more years of use. i don't use it much at all cause i have other DP's, but i sure like seeing it sitting on one of my benches and i get lots of comments on it from visiting friends and relatives.
have a happy and safe 4th all of you!!!
Neatsfoot looks like it's got a couple or maybe more QUALITIES of it and here's Wikipedia's comment:
After cattle are slaughtered, the feet and lower leg bones, including the skin but not the hooves are boiled. The oil that is released is skimmed off, filtered and pressed. The first pressing is the highest grade, the second pressing produces a lower grade oil and a solid press cake or stearin product.
it looks like i can get a gallon of it for around $6.
ND: my Canedy-Otto DP is i think from the mid 1920's, but i haven't found an exact match in a catalog for it yet. here's another picture of mine and if you do a search or read more of this thread there are several bigger versions of my DP on here. there are also replacement belts made out of vinyl if leather is too expensive on your restorations.
Brent: i didn't know loosening the tension on the leather belt would improve the life of it when not in use so i'll have to see if that works to maybe get me a few more years of use. i don't use it much at all cause i have other DP's, but i sure like seeing it sitting on one of my benches and i get lots of comments on it from visiting friends and relatives.
have a happy and safe 4th all of you!!!
Attachments
http://www.leatherdrivebelts.com/
If you need a new leather belt the above guy comes recommended.
lg
no neat sig line
If you need a new leather belt the above guy comes recommended.
lg
no neat sig line
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
Thanks for the information on another flat belt supplier. I have been getting my flat belts from - http://www.hitnmiss.com/
I have several 100 plus year old drill presses. I prefer the newer rubberized fabric belts. My little Canedy-Otto drillpress has a leather drive. This leather drive needs regular tightening. I have been making my belt connections with a CLIPPER lacer. I did hand lace the leather quill drive on my WF and John Barnes. There is a good instruction video on You Tube.
I have several 100 plus year old drill presses. I prefer the newer rubberized fabric belts. My little Canedy-Otto drillpress has a leather drive. This leather drive needs regular tightening. I have been making my belt connections with a CLIPPER lacer. I did hand lace the leather quill drive on my WF and John Barnes. There is a good instruction video on You Tube.
Attachments
CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
Snappychip
Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2012
- Messages
- 6
I was going to scrap this old Milwaukee drill press, but on second thought, it's an oldie but a goodie. I haven't done any research into it, got it from an old friend long ago. The number plate seems to be worn off, I cannot find any identifier markings on it.
Attachments
I have a similar setup to that and have used a few times in lieu of a mag base DP. Clamp the base to the work and proceed. The head can be swung around so it clears the base.
lg
no neat sig line
gtabasso
Well-known member
The company where I work has 514 drill presses in right now. Most of the are OLD. I love walking down that aisle thinking of the men who used them and what they made. If only old tools could talk.
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
I just picked up this 20 inch Champion drill press. The back gear is half missing and the power feed has been taken off. It has two feeds which are more than adequate. It took me a few hours to oil and clean it but the old motor is gear reduction vintage. One quick pull when stepping on the foot pedal switch and she was rolling. Sixty eight rev. per minute. Weighs 1000 lbs. Hard to move around but nice to work with. I have a thread in the Garage Gallery (The Model A Ford Garage) if you want to see more pictures.
Attachments
It's to bad that your back gear and power feed is missing. You would appreciate the power feed when you have to drill a few 1" holes in some 2" thick steel. I really like that I can just watch and squirt a bit of oil at it when it is doing all the work or walk away and the depths top will stop the process. Pictures of mine are at https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=5185
with story, https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76641&page=4
lg
no neat sig line
with story, https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76641&page=4
lg
no neat sig line
Last edited:
406Rich
Well-known member
Looking at this 1959 Delta/rockwell 14 inch bench top, owner wants $275 for it, he said he`s its been thru it all, just a little of runout in it, whats the odds of not finding bearings for it..? Think the price is good or pass....?
CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
Looking at this 1959 Delta/rockwell 14 inch bench top, owner wants $275 for it, he said he`s its been thru it all, just a little of runout in it, whats the odds of not finding bearings for it..? Think the price is good or pass....?
They are a good machine what is his definition of a little run-out? .00?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
406Rich
Well-known member
Still waiting for reply from seller, workspace is confined is the reason for bench top other wise I`d be looking for a floor model...
Looking at this 1959 Delta/rockwell 14 inch bench top, owner wants $275 for it, he said he`s its been thru it all, just a little of runout in it, whats the odds of not finding bearings for it..? Think the price is good or pass....?
Too much $$$. I sold a few 50's era Delta 225's recently and never got more than $200 for them, and the last one had a middle pulley. That motor doesn't look too special either.
Just sayin'.....
406Rich
Well-known member
Motor is just a 1/2 hp dayton...as said nothing special, but what is the advantage of a center pulley...all new to me..?
tombell572
Well-known member
Looks like he's got it nicely cleaned up--if the quality of the work is as good as the picture I suppose that adds value. Runout could be bearings or a worn chuck. As you noted, correct bearings may be difficult to find. If the chuck is worn, a new Jacobs would add cost. And yes, motor's not great. $200 may be fair.
Tom B.
Tom B.
Craptain
Well-known member
Center pulley will reduce lowest speed to about 250-300 rpm, which is useful for drilling holes in steel. Without center pulley the lowest speed is likely around 700-800 rpm for that vintage drill press---ok for wood and non-ferrous metals, but impractical to drill large holes in ferrous metals.
406Rich
Well-known member
Thanks, that cleared things up .
CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
Craptain
Well-known member
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
bubinga
Well-known member
That Is Nice.
Craftsman 100 I did for my son. It goes well with the bandsaw I gave him about 6 months ago. I am slowly getting rid of some stuff out of my basement
Nice Too!
CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
Thanks
Redboy
Well-known member
I love that whole setup, Brent!
Thank you, sir!
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
Thanks, it is fun for me to pass these along to be be used again.
Brent, I have a 1940's table and a floor model like yours in the pile to be worked on. One is missing the pulley guard and both the top spindle cover. That is an interesting motor arrangement you have on there.
The motor is in the stock location. I copied the How to Bore the Big Ones article (linked) so what you're seeing is the reducer pulley and mandrel, set-up. I pretty much drill everything slow, now. It's an awesome upgrade.
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
Thanks for the info, I might try a set up like that in the future.
paulm12
Well-known member
New to drill press work. I want to remove the Jacobs chuck from this Shopmaster drill press, it is a bit gunked up. Do I just force it with wedges? or is it threaded? The info I have seen says it is a press fit. Thanks.
.
.
Attachments
Craptain
Well-known member
It appears that the chuck is removed by using the knurled ring above the chuck. Screwing the ring down should push the chuck off the taper. You will have to lock the quill. This system is very similar to Craftsman.
Having said that, I have never seen a Shopmaster in real life so just basing on the pictures.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Having said that, I have never seen a Shopmaster in real life so just basing on the pictures.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
paulm12
Well-known member
I will try using the knurled ring first. Gotta figure best way to lock the quill. Thanks
Craptain
Well-known member
There should be a lock. Usually on left side a few inches up from the bottom. On my dp it is the crank/screw bottom front of head casting, just above the chuck.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Attachments
I found this old CM DP at a barn sale. It came with this oddball fence and a box full of shaper bits/chucks/etc. The box color matches what's left of the DP color so maybe it was a shaper accessory kit but I'm not sure.
It's dirty but 100% complete with no damage or missing parts. The motor runs good and the CM badges look perfect.
I have no need for another DP but the price was right ($5).
It's dirty but 100% complete with no damage or missing parts. The motor runs good and the CM badges look perfect.
I have no need for another DP but the price was right ($5).
Attachments
Outlawmws
Well-known member
That's an Atlas built Craftsman DP probably 1930's, and that's a USUCK score!
I think the fence/guard is from a different machine, probably a shaper.
The box was probably painted and looks to be a 50's/60's lunch box.
I think the fence/guard is from a different machine, probably a shaper.
The box was probably painted and looks to be a 50's/60's lunch box.