Show us your handplanes

[RTM]

I had a Stanley #80 in the back of my mind when I picked it up, but, as you all can guess, this wasn't that

Hell, I completely forgot about that one. How wide is the body on yours, measured at the top across the metal? 1-1/2" wide for a regular #80. A cut down #80 would make sense, seems someone added extra fasteners to it on top, and on the sole. Maybe even relocated the cut off side cheek pieces higher and then added a second set of holes below to match the holes left in the body. And a new sole to wrap up the front and rear. The only thing you seem to be missing is the wood hanging over the front of the metal.

I've got a couple of homemade looking rabbets, but none match anything close to the effort on yours.

 

[crguy]

Hell, I completely forgot about that one. How wide is the body on yours, measured at the top across the metal? 1-1/2" wide for a regular #80. A cut down #80 would make sense, seems someone added extra fasteners to it on top, and on the sole. Maybe even relocated the cut off side cheek pieces higher and then added a second set of holes below to match the holes left in the body. And a new sole to wrap up the front and rear. The only thing you seem to be missing is the wood hanging over the front of the metal.

I've got a couple of homemade looking rabbets, but none match anything close to the effort on yours.

None of that one came off a Stanley 80 IMO.

 

[pfaustus]

None of that one came off a Stanley 80 IMO.

Agreed. When I saw the picture in the garage sale thread, I thought it might be a chopped up 80. But, the 80 is sheet metal, the metal sides are too thick. The 80 has sheet metal in a side to side U shaped channel. The ends are wood. It doesn't have those two L shaped pieces wanting to be a U but for the mouth.

It looks like some one decided his home made infill rabbet plane would be more useful as a dado plane, but why make a rabbet plane that way? And why cut it down on both sides?

I think I've seen plans for a DIY shoulder plane with metal plates screwed to the side like that. I can sort of imagine the pre-cut down version as a shoulder plane, with too high a blade angle.

 

[Beerhippie]

Here's another from the low end of the spectrum:



Again, something I got for next to nothing as part of a deal--IIRC, this was in one of the many toolboxes I bought over the last year. It was a lump of rust, of course. I gave the parts an hour in hot Sodium Citrate (SC) solution in the US cleaner, flattened and trued (somewhat) the base and cheeks, sharpened the blade (reshaped, actually--it was an eight of an inch + out of square and not uniformly beveled) and put it back together.



I figured I'd give it a try--it's my first low-angle plane:



Not paper-thin, but nice--and it feels nice, even on that curly maple. I could get it better tuned... eventually, but I'll probably never use it for anything fine-wood-working, just rough clean/ level.



Leaves a nice surface, anyhow.

This Stanley 220 isn't a great plane by any means--but it sure doesn't get panned like the previous plane I restored. It has a fixed frog, large throat, no side-to-side lever, no chip breaker and a pretty crappy tightening lever. Still, it works and the price was right--about an hour of my labor. I don't know the vintage, but the combination of the steel wheel, Made In USA and rosewood knob should make it fairly easy to narrow down.

These seem to go for $10-40 online. New is about $40.

 

[Beerhippie]

Whoah! Like so many projects, I'd started this months ago then set it aside. I thought I'd trued and flattened the base, but looking at, I guess not. After a few minutes on a 320-grit diamond stone, it's obvious that only three parts of the base are actually contacting the stone--right behind the throat and both sides of the base from the throat about two-thirds back.

Well, now I have something to keep at least one hand busy while watching YT vids....

 

[ararat]

Here's another from the low end of the spectrum:



Again, something I got for next to nothing as part of a deal--IIRC, this was in one of the many toolboxes I bought over the last year. It was a lump of rust, of course. I gave the parts an hour in hot Sodium Citrate (SC) solution in the US cleaner, flattened and trued (somewhat) the base and cheeks, sharpened the blade (reshaped, actually--it was an eight of an inch + out of square and not uniformly beveled) and put it back together.



I figured I'd give it a try--it's my first low-angle plane:



Not paper-thin, but nice--and it feels nice, even on that curly maple. I could get it better tuned... eventually, but I'll probably never use it for anything fine-wood-working, just rough clean/ level.



Leaves a nice surface, anyhow.

This Stanley 220 isn't a great plane by any means--but it sure doesn't get panned like the previous plane I restored. It has a fixed frog, large throat, no side-to-side lever, no chip breaker and a pretty crappy tightening lever. Still, it works and the price was right--about an hour of my labor. I don't know the vintage, but the combination of the steel wheel, Made In USA and rosewood knob should make it fairly easy to narrow down.

These seem to go for $10-40 online. New is about $40.

Nice block plane. 220 is just the basic block plane. I've used mine a bunch. There are some much worse models, like the 120.

 

[Beerhippie]

No wonder I had trouble getting a thin shaving.

 

[Provincial]

No wonder I had trouble getting a thin shaving.

Or a thick one!

 

[Provincial]

Thursday at an estate sale I spotted an empty plain white tagboard box with a Federal 41- stock number and a reference to block plane and Stanley on the end. Nearby were two block planes, one of which had "Stanley" cast into the frame, and it fit the box. I carried it around while I accumulated items and apparently forgot to pick it back up at some point, because when I got home, it wasn't in the bag.

I don't collect planes, but this seemed to be worth saving for someone who does. My lack of attention meant it got left behind, and I can only hope that by leaving the plane in the box that the set will be kept together.

 

[crguy]

Here's another from the low end of the spectrum:



Again, something I got for next to nothing as part of a deal--IIRC, this was in one of the many toolboxes I bought over the last year. It was a lump of rust, of course. I gave the parts an hour in hot Sodium Citrate (SC) solution in the US cleaner, flattened and trued (somewhat) the base and cheeks, sharpened the blade (reshaped, actually--it was an eight of an inch + out of square and not uniformly beveled) and put it back together.



I figured I'd give it a try--it's my first low-angle plane:



Not paper-thin, but nice--and it feels nice, even on that curly maple. I could get it better tuned... eventually, but I'll probably never use it for anything fine-wood-working, just rough clean/ level.



Leaves a nice surface, anyhow.

This Stanley 220 isn't a great plane by any means--but it sure doesn't get panned like the previous plane I restored. It has a fixed frog, large throat, no side-to-side lever, no chip breaker and a pretty crappy tightening lever. Still, it works and the price was right--about an hour of my labor. I don't know the vintage, but the combination of the steel wheel, Made In USA and rosewood knob should make it fairly easy to narrow down.

These seem to go for $10-40 online. New is about $40.

That's not a low angle plane. Look at a 60 1/2 if you want to see one.

 

[RTM]

After a few minutes on a 320-grit diamond stone, it's obvious that only three parts of the base are actually contacting the stone--right behind the throat and both sides of the base from the throat about two-thirds back.

Get yourself some 50 grit AlZi blue paper, the work will go much faster. I keep a long length on my Sary Sharp setup. Wipe a zigzag with a Sharpie across the sole, touching all edges and corners, and then make it go away with sanding. Just make sure you keep the body square to the world.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Beerhippie: Here's a page from a 1929 STANLEY catalog. It's Stanley's explanation of block planes including why they are called 'block planes'. It sounds iffy to me. I attached the entries for No.220 and No.60 1/2. The "Hand-y" feature was dimples on the sides of the 60 1/2 for which Justus Traut was given a patent in 1897.

 

[milkovich]

Beerhippie: Here's a page from a 1929 STANLEY catalog. It's Stanley's explanation of block planes including why they are called 'block planes'. It sounds iffy to me. I attached the entries for No.220 and No.60 1/2. The "Hand-y" feature was dimples on the sides of the 60 1/2 for which Justus Traut was given a patent in 1897.

I had heard that the term "Block plane" came from them being for cross grain cutting the tops of butcher blocks. The only problem with that explanation is that I've never seen a real working butcher block that was anywhere near flat.

 

[RTM]

I had heard that the term "Block plane" came from them being for cross grain cutting the tops of butcher blocks. The only problem with that explanation is that I've never seen a real working butcher block that was anywhere near flat.

And trying to use a little bitty block plane on a 3 foot square surface would not be fun either.

 

[ararat]

And trying to use a little bitty block plane on a 3 foot square surface would not be fun either.

The #64 was sold as a butcher block plane according to: https://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan9.htm

 

[Beerhippie]

I had heard that the term "Block plane" came from them being for cross grain cutting the tops of butcher blocks. The only problem with that explanation is that I've never seen a real working butcher block that was anywhere near flat.

Thanks! I have wondered....

The dimpled cheeks seem like they would be handy. I have no idea why Stanley put a little bitty front knob on this one-hand plane, as I just grip it by the cheeks with the cap in my palm.

I got the sole as flat as I'm going to. I started with 80 grit WOD--what I had and you don't just run out and grab a few sheets of AlO2 paper around here. I used the Sharpie trick (not my first rodeo) from there up to 240--about one YT video per sheet--lightly adhered to my 1/4" glass flat plate w/Elmer's spray adhesive (good stuff).



Not real sure about what looks like a hollow in the center of the sole. I completely removed the Sharpie (cheap barstid's Dykem) at each stage, but it's still there. I didn't try to get out every dimple and scar as I wanted to have a plane left when I was done. Stanley didn't go out of their way with the castings on these and they're very porous, which might be what that hollow is.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Beerhippie: I'd say the sole is as flat as it needs to be. A few thou here or there won't make much difference. Paul Sellers recommends good contact just in front of the mouth so that the wood fibers are compressed just before the cutting iron shears them off. He has made his living for 60 years with hand woodworking tools so I tend to take him seriously.

I like your unit of measure - "one YT vid per sheet". Very practical.

p.s. Paul has many videos.

 

[Old tool guy]

The dimpled cheeks seem like they would be handy. I have no idea why Stanley put a little bitty front knob on this one-hand plane, as I just grip it by the cheeks with the cap in my palm.

Thumb in one recess, three fingers in the other, forefinger on the knob.

Looking at your picture, looks like a small dark spot on the leading edge … like it got dropped and dinged?

 

[Beerhippie]

Thumb in one recess, three fingers in the other, forefinger on the knob.

Looking at your picture, looks like a small dark spot on the leading edge … like it got dropped and dinged?

Most of the plane is a "ding". I suspect this has been tossed in many a toolbox and/or belt over the years. I wish I'd taken a "before" of the iron--the edge was... horrible. Way out of square, totally inconsistent bevels--several different bevels, actually. I probably took a quarter-inch off to get it back where I like it.

 

[WTXTundra]

So I found this little spoke shave at a Houston flea market this weekend. Anyone recognize if this model? Don’t see a makers mark anywhere.

Looks to be in good condition though.

 

[ararat]

So I found this little spoke shave at a Houston flea market this weekend. Anyone recognize if this model? Don’t see a makers mark anywhere.

Looks to be in good condition though.

Looks like a later model clone of the Stanley 63

 

[Beerhippie]

Another "freebie", a Stanley 9 1/2 block plane, w/adjustable throat. This was tossed in with some other stuff I bought a couple of weeks ago:



It got back-shelved for a couple of reasons. For one, the very unusual vise came first.

Anyhow, as you can see, it was missing parts. The cap lever for one, the lateral adjustment for another.

I found that the cap lever from a Stanley 220--maybe the second least desirable plane in my small collection--was identical. The adjusting lever came from the Bay of Evil, making my "free" plane a $15 plane.

I gave it a good buzz-bath in hot sodium citrate solution to remove rust while retaining any Japanning that was still attached to the metal, flattened and cleaned the base and cheeks, fattened, trued and sharpened the iron, and now:



It's good to go for the next time I need a nice little block plane! Not that I can recall the last time I needed one, but I'm learning that the more tools I have, the more tools I use.

 

[ararat]

The 9 1/2 is a good little plane. Here's mine beside an older model #15, which is basically the same thing except an inch longer. The 15 has the so called Excelsior body style where the bumps on the sides are further back.

 

[bonneyman]

Nice vintage planes, guys!

 

[crguy]

I recently acquired this Stanley 110 block plane. Type 2, 1875 - 1876. Fine all original undamaged condition, still has the original knob and marked cutter. Just the way we like to find them. The ornate and delicate "shoe buckle" cap makes these really stand out.

 

[ararat]

I recently acquired this Stanley 110 block plane. Type 2, 1875 - 1876. Fine all original undamaged condition, still has the original knob and marked cutter. Just the way we like to find them. The ornate and delicate "shoe buckle" cap makes these really stand out.

Very nice. I love the early models of the metal planes.

 

[Beerhippie]

Here's an interesting piece I picked up today:



The cap from a Stanley Liberty Bell plane--1876-1918.

If anyone needs this to complete a plane, PM me.

 

[xnology]

Another GJ inspirational thread!

I love the elegant and simple designs of these old hand planes! I’ve got a couple of planes that need new totes so I'm off to the 3D printer for prototyping designs before I actually cut and shape some hard wood! An old Stanley/Bailey #3 smoothing plane:



You can just make out the #5 tote design on the printer in the background.

 

[crguy]

Another GJ inspirational thread!

I love the elegant and simple designs of these old hand planes! I’ve got a couple of planes that need new totes so I'm off to the 3D printer for prototyping designs before I actually cut and shape some hard wood! An old Stanley/Bailey #3 smoothing plane:



You can just make out the #5 tote design on the printer in the background.

Sorry, but real wood looks better on a wood plane IMO.

 

[xnology]

Sorry, but real wood looks better on a wood plane IMO.

You gotta read the post. These are merely proving the designs. They will be made of hardwood when I get them where I want them.

 

[crguy]

You gotta read the post. These are merely proving the designs. They will be made of hardwood when I get them where I want them.

You are correct. I missed that part. I fail to see the necessity of printing out a full size model.

 

[Beerhippie]

You are correct. I missed that part. I fail to see the necessity of printing out a full size model.

"Dog's balls" as an infamous Tourette's-beset Aussie engineer likes to say. "Because he can."

I think it's called "rapid prototyping". Kinda handy to check fit and comfort.

I've done pretty well finding real, period-correct rosewood totes on the Bay for fair prices.

 

[xnology]

I’ve seen some guys make custom ones for arthritis and I’ve had it since I can remember. My plan is to try a couple of things these others have said helps. Now that I’ve got the basic fitment to the plane body nailed down, I’m going to work on some of the features they have said helped them. If they help, that’s awesome. If they don’t, I’ll have some badass custom totes!

 

[CRSINMICH]

I have a couple #3's and I like using them. They're very nimble. I have arthritis in both wrists but not too badly - yet. I used a 5 1/2 for a few hours the other day without too much trouble. Be sure to post pictures when finished.

 

[xnology]

I have a couple #3's and I like using them. They're very nimble. I have arthritis in both wrists but not too badly - yet. I used a 5 1/2 for a few hours the other day without too much trouble. Be sure to post pictures when finished.

Definitely!

 

[JaketheSnake1]

Here's one of my antique wooden planes.

 

[ararat]

Here's one of my antique wooden planes.

one just like it for sale on ebay

 

[crguy]

Here's one of my antique wooden planes.

Is it marked on the front end?

 

[crguy]

one just like it for sale on ebay

At an overly optimistic price IMO.

 

[Pexto]

At an overly optimistic price IMO.

Yes. Also, Spear & Jackson dates back to about 1830, so the claim of "18th century" might be a little suspect.