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b.well

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Hello

I added a Stanley plane to my collection today. I stopped of at a multifamily garage sale and found a table with vintage tools. One plane on the table. The Bailey no5 with a $60 price tag. Too rusty for the price. I was able to buy it for $20. The seller said it was Pre WWII.

I sprayed it with WD40 and ran what should be shiny over the wire wheel. Still not so shiny. Might go to electrolysis next.

I tried to date it and that's where I hit a snag. woodandshop.com narrows it down to type 16-19. But then asks for the direction of "stanley" on the lateral adjustment lever. My lever has nothing! If I answer NO and move on I get down to type 16-17.

The Bed/Base and the Blade both say Stanley Made in USA. Why no stamp on the adjustment lever? Is that a WWII era condition on some planes where standards were not always followed? Type 16-19 makes it years 1933-1961. Type 16-17 makes it 1933-1945. WWII was 1939-1945.

Did I get a good one? Even if it needs some TLC.
 

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Jim C.

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B,

Just briefly looking at the photos, i think your frog is much later than WWII vintage. Maybe early to mid 1960s. Was the inner part of the plane’s main casting painted a maroon color?

Jim C.
 

b.well

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B,

Just briefly looking at the photos, i think your frog is much later than WWII vintage. Maybe early to mid 1960s. Was the inner part of the plane’s main casting painted a maroon color?

Jim C.

Jim

Thanks for the quick reply!

Yes, I believe Maroon is accurate but I am not sure if it is original. Looks black underneath the maroon. The black is not rusty like the outside was. First two pics are of the #5.

And while we are talking about age.... I was gifted a "handyman" last week. Is "Stanley Handyman" or "Handyman" older? I have seen them both ways. Mine is the later. Last three pics are of the "Handyman". Seems H1204 ran 1957-1973.

Cheers
Billy
 

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b.well

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Here is a snip from where I translated the woodandshop test to excel. To be from 1962-67 it would need to be dark blue. If it was a generation earlier 1948-61 it would need to have "Stanley" printed vertical on the adjustment lever. Mine does not have either.
 

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Jim C.

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.....To be from 1962-67 it would need to be dark blue...

Right, and that’s why I asked you if the plane had been painted maroon. If the plane hadn’t been painted, you’d theoretically have a black plane with a blue frog. That would indicate that the two parts were mixed together from different types. Painting the plane one color, in this case maroon, hides what would otherwise be obvious. I know the frog was replaced because the yoke is two pieces of pressed steel instead of a one piece casting and the lateral adjustment lever is a one piece pressed steel part with bent to the sides finger holds. A frog outfitted with those parts started showing up in the 1960s.

Jim C.
 
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txlonghorn1989

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Picked up this Stanley No 71-1/2 router plane off ebay last week. With the insane prices router planes have been selling for lately there I felt very lucky to find a decent vintage one at $65 before shipping. The knobs are excellent with no checking or breaks. Need to get it in some evaporust and give it a mild cleanup. It will be a user for me. I'll have to look through my bookmarks and locate the site to date and hopefully type it.

Update: Looks like it's a type 3 1906-1910. Cool!
 

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CRSINMICH

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tx: Congrats. That was a good price for a router. I think I paid slightly less than that for the same router but that was about about 6 or 7 years ago. It'll be a great user. Irons of different widths are available but a little pricey. Flatten the sole and make it as smooth as possible and learn how to sharpen the irons. I think Paul Sellers has a video about that. If not, there are a LOT of videos out there. Curiously, it seems like no two videos show the same method. Take your pick. You can also add a wooden sole to make the base wider for some applications. That's what the holes in the base are for. Routers are very useful and you'll have fun with yours.
 

txlonghorn1989

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Picked up this Stanley No 112 scraper plane this morning off CL from a fellow woodworker. It appears to be in great condition. The seller stated he cleaned it up. I should have thought to ask him if it was a user for him or just passing thru his shop. Anyway, it's cleaned up nicely. Rosewood tote and knob have no cracks. There's a tiny blemish on the sole near the mouth. At first, I thought it was the beginning of a crack. But I took a pic and blew it up (the eyesight isn't what it used to be) and it's just a ding. With the sole flattened it isn't a problem. I'm not sure if the blade is original though. It certainly has age to it but it isn't marked. Not sure if most of the blades for these scrapers were marked or not. ?? The brass adjusting nut closest to the tote has "Patent" and "Aug 31 58" on it. Any thoughts about age? Are there types for these scraper planes? This is actually the first one I've ever seen in the wild. Set me back 5 Jacksons. Super excited to have it.
 

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b.well

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The maroon is considered too new for most of the type studies. Correctly it’s cordovan, but everyone I know says maroon.

Try here, see how it fits

https://www.timetestedtools.net/2017/07/13/the-stanley-cordovan-era/

Seems I need to tighten up my Stanley plane history. I saw No5., Bailey, Made in USA, Brass, Wood handles and figured that was old. I didn't know about Cordovan.

My Stanley No4 type 16 has the Orange background to "Stanley"
This Stanley No5 type 21? has Yellow Background to "Stanley"

Know these dates below?

I plugged around on google and ebay to get these. Please let me know if you have more accurate dates.

Stanley stopped using Brass: 60s or 70s?
Stanley stopped using redwood handles?
Plastic handles were introduced in the late 60s. So seemingly late T20-T21.

Stanley logo background colors/years:
No Logo at all: T12 and earlier
Orange T13-T16 (1925-1941)
Orange, NoColor, Black WWII years T16-t17
Yellow T19-T20 (1948-1967)

Stanley bed color:
Black: T1-T19 (1867-1961)
Dark Blue: T20 (1962-1967)
Cordovan: T21 late 1960s

It is possible and likely that a color change happened somewhere in the middle of a type range, as well as having some overflow. These are general observations.
 

CRSINMICH

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tx: Congrats again. The price seems fair. It's another tool you'll have to learn to "sharpen". The blade should have a 45 degree angle on the business end and you'll have to turn a "hook" or "burr" on it. If you look online you'll find many videos about sharpening scrapers and, once again, no two videos will show the same technique. It's worth the effort of learning which one will work for you. If it's working correctly it will produce shavings and not dust. I thought I had found a way that worked for me, but I may have been wrong. Have fun with this tool too.
 

RTM

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TX: Regarding your 112, try looking here. I can't read it right now, print is to hard to read without staring, and the people on this video call are wondering what I am doing.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm#num112

Regarding the tool, it is probably the hardest to use, but the most satisfying. It works fantastically on weird grain, like Quarter Sawn white oak. I have the LN equivalent with a massive blade, and getting the good edge on that makes it work. With the Stanley, learning to correctly prep the scraper blade, turning the hook (burr) is critical to success. Without skill in blade prep, you will hate the tool. Learning to use a bare scraper is a good start.

Nice to see CRS and I agree
 
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RTM

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b.well

There is always the possibility of a franken plane too. I would not trust 50% of Ebay sellers on type. Going to the Stanley blood & Gore, linked above, and then TimeTestedTools, Hyperkitten, Sawmill Creek etc for further resources. There are many people hosting their own studies, and some of them are just copies of the original works, in their own format.

If I see Cordovan paint, or yellow logos, I no longer care. I am not a type snob, and don't really care, I can barely use the type studies. If I like the way it feels, and looks (rust etc), I will consider it, regardless of type. I am not reselling, and don't like low knob planes. I also have all but a #2, and multiples of the middle of the bench plane range, so not much really catches my eye anyway.
 

CRSINMICH

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RTM: I looked back on a few of your previous posts and I can't say that I disagreed with anything you said but it is nice that you seem to have the identical opinion of the #112. It was worth the effort of learning to get a good burr, but I had to keep reminding myself of that - repeatedly.

TIP: It may help to hold the blade in a metal worker's vise when turning the burr and not a woodworking vise. I think there was too much flex with the ww vise. That's the theory I'm working under now anyway.
 
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Jim C.

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Seems I need to tighten up my Stanley plane history. I saw No5., Bailey, Made in USA, Brass, Wood handles and figured that was old. I didn't know about Cordovan.

My Stanley No4 type 16 has the Orange background to "Stanley"
This Stanley No5 type 21? has Yellow Background to "Stanley"

Know these dates below?

I plugged around on google and ebay to get these. Please let me know if you have more accurate dates.

Stanley stopped using Brass: 60s or 70s?
Stanley stopped using redwood handles?
Plastic handles were introduced in the late 60s. So seemingly late T20-T21.

Stanley logo background colors/years:
No Logo at all: T12 and earlier
Orange T13-T16 (1925-1941)
Orange, NoColor, Black WWII years T16-t17
Yellow T19-T20 (1948-1967)

Stanley bed color:
Black: T1-T19 (1867-1961)
Dark Blue: T20 (1962-1967)
Cordovan: T21 late 1960s

It is possible and likely that a color change happened somewhere in the middle of a type range, as well as having some overflow. These are general observations.

B,

It’s easy to get caught up in old hand planes. There’s a good amount of information out there regarding bench plane types and various nuances between the types. Stanley didn’t waste inventory, so it’s possible to have parts on a factory original plane that came from two consecutive types. Unless you’re collecting, it doesn’t matter too much. If you’re planning to use the plane, get a good one, particularly if it’s a common size like a #4 or #5 in this instance. There’s tons of them out there, so be a little picky. Avoid those with a lot of rust/pitting, missing parts, and badly damaged/cracked wood totes and/or knobs. Basically, make sure the parts are all present and not significantly damaged to the point of needing to be replaced. As you get more experience looking at old planes, you’ll become more familiar with the parts, logos, casting marks, etc., and be able to determine whether or not the plane is “likely” in original factory condition. Again, if you’re just going to use the plane, don’t get too hung up on its type. Just because it’s old doesn’t mean it’s rare or even very valuable. Garage sale sellers and most eBay sellers typically don’t have a clue. I’ve come across garage sale planes that were underpriced (occasionally, but not too often) and some that were absolute junk and way overpriced (more often than not).

If you’re buying planes to collect, then you really need to know what you’re looking at, and unless you’re buying something very rare, condition is everything. That holds true even if the plane is a common size. It’s very easy to overpay for a plane that’s in great USER CONDITION and misidentify it as a true COLLECTOR example. Trust me, I’ve done it myself. If you’re going after old Stanleys, in the future avoid planes that are finished in blue or maroon/cordovan. There’s a learning curve for sure. You just need to keep educating yourself and keep looking at old planes. Good luck but more importantly, do your homework. Basically, make your own luck!! Don’t rely on the seller.

Early on, after I made a few costly mistakes, I came up with this card (see below) that I kept with me when I’d go to tool auctions, swap meets, etc. I wrote it to myself as a reminder not to get carried away. I used it to objectively evaluate a plane before I bid on it or bought it. I remained true to the criteria on the card and occasionally walked away from overpriced planes. It kind of helped me stay disciplined. Maybe it will serve as a guide for you too. Take a look at the two #6 planes below. The example in the foreground represents the Top Collector Quality category on the card. The plane in the background represents the User category. That sort puts things in perspective.

One more thing in regards to obtaining old hand planes. Over the years, people I know, like family, friends, neighbors, co-workers, etc. have learned that I like woodworking and also using/collecting old planes. I can’t tell you how many planes I’ve gotten for free in the past 25 years from people who don’t want them after a spouse/relative dies, when people decide to down size their living conditions, etc., etc. The reasons go on and on. (I’ve actually received a few old woodworking machines in this manner.) So far, all the planes have been between good user quality and junk. Most however, with just a little elbow grease on a Saturday morning, can become solid workers again. Something to consider.

Jim C.
 

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Old Radar

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Excellent guide, Jim! Referencing those norms should quell any undue enthusiasm generated in the "heat of the moment", and bring the buyer back to a calm reality to begin realistic negotiations.
 

Jim C.

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Excellent guide, Jim! Referencing those norms should quell any undue enthusiasm generated in the "heat of the moment", and bring the buyer back to a calm reality to begin realistic negotiations.

Thanks Radar! I’m not gonna lie. Early on, I got caught up in the excitement of just holding an old plane, and I knew just enough about them to be dangerous...... to myself!!! I let my self-perceived (and totally misguided) “wealth of knowledge“ override good sense, and more than once I paid a collector price for a user quality plane. After finally getting some legitimate knowledge, which took some time, I wrote those guidelines to myself. They reminded me to be more critical than crazy when considering a plane for my collection.

Jim C.
 

Old Radar

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Thanks Radar! I’m not gonna lie. Early on, I got caught up in the excitement of just holding an old plane, and I knew just enough about them to be dangerous...... to myself!!! I let my self-perceived (and totally misguided) “wealth of knowledge“ override good sense, and more than once I paid a collector price for a user quality plane. After finally getting some legitimate knowledge, which took some time, I wrote those guidelines to myself. They reminded me to be more critical than crazy when considering a plane for my collection.

Jim C.

Most people have been caught up in that position--and after allowing themselves to be burned, most just swear off the objects of their desire, while you took the rational step to outline how to prevent it in the future and continue the pursuit.
Great job and thanks for sharing it with the multitude!
 
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CRSINMICH

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HOLLOW AUGER​
A loose definition of a plane is a tool that holds a chisel at a fixed angle. Using that very broad definition this A.A. Wood & Sons Hollow Auger could be considered a plane. If you let me get away with that then here are some pictures of my new plane. It was meant to be used with a brace to cut a round tenon in end of square stock. It can be set to cut tenons from ¼” to 1¼” in diameter. It has a stop that can be set to cut tenons of various lengths. It was commonly used to cut tenons on wooden spokes or on chair stretchers. I heard it described as something that cuts the opposite of a round mortice. The advantage is that round mortices can be bored quickly and easily. Considering the huge number of spokes on all the wooden wheels ever made, the time savings would have been immense.
The hollow auger would have been used with a pointing tool. That was a special bit for a brace that has the outline of a funnel and functions like a pencil sharpener. It chamfered the end of the square stock to provide a place to start the hollow auger.
Here’s a short video showing a guy using a pointer and a Woods & Sons hollow auger (with a Spoffard brace).
 

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b.well

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Hello

These are for sale locally. Sometimes asking too many questions turns sellers off. Can anyone tell what these are? Stanley? Old ones?

I see one is No 5 and one is No 6

I can't make anything else out, like Made in USA, Bailey, or patent numbers. I do not see a raised ring around the knob. So if they are Stanley they are old.

Thank you!
Billy
 

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CRSINMICH

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b.well: The No.5 has a high front knob and a 2-piece lateral adjustment lever. I can't tell if there is a frog adjustment screw or not. If not, it is definitely an older plane. The No.6 has a low front knob but that's about all I can see from that camera angle. Both of them are too dusty to get a good idea of general condition but I don't see any obvious breaks, repairs or cracks. If you are looking for users it would be good to have a better look at them. Stanley was not the only company that made good quality planes.
 

b.well

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b.well: The No.5 has a high front knob and a 2-piece lateral adjustment lever. I can't tell if there is a frog adjustment screw or not. If not, it is definitely an older plane. The No.6 has a low front knob but that's about all I can see from that camera angle. Both of them are too dusty to get a good idea of general condition but I don't see any obvious breaks, repairs or cracks. If you are looking for users it would be good to have a better look at them. Stanley was not the only company that made good quality planes.

Thanks for your educated eye. Any guess on the brand for these?

I told the seller I was interested before and he just replied with the price. I asked the brand and said I'd like to see them tomorrow. No response yet. Sometimes sellers don't want a maybe buyer and will go with someone that commits from the start.
 

Jim C.

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B,

Those planes are USER quality examples at best. Be very careful not to overpay for them. As a buyer I’d ask the seller as many questions as you want. I doubt there’s going to be a lot of demand for those two planes, so be picky. #5 and #6 examples are a dime a dozen. If the seller doesn’t want to answer your questions, or gets irritated, walk away. He’s not selling anything you can’t find somewhere else.

Jim C.
 

Old Radar

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Looks like the #6 has a broken tote. You can see the palm side edge sticking out in front of the white paint splatter on the table.
 

RTM

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Dunno, on my screen it looks intact. Hard to say.

I’d go about $40 for the pair in that condition, as I am not a low knob fan. And I have a few of each, so don’t really need them.
 

b.well

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B,

Those planes are USER quality examples at best. Be very careful not to overpay for them. As a buyer I’d ask the seller as many questions as you want. I doubt there’s going to be a lot of demand for those two planes, so be picky. #5 and #6 examples are a dime a dozen. If the seller doesn’t want to answer your questions, or gets irritated, walk away. He’s not selling anything you can’t find somewhere else.

Jim C.

Hard to say with this pic how well they would clean up. A bath will make a huge difference. What will it uncover? If only surface rust no problem. If no broken wood even better. Electrolysis is great for heavier rust but sometimes takes the paint too.

Looks like the #6 has a broken tote. You can see the palm side edge sticking out in front of the white paint splatter on the table.

I don't see the break. I brightened the shadows and reattached here. If I see in person I'll definitely take a closer look.

Dunno, on my screen it looks intact. Hard to say.

I’d go about $40 for the pair in that condition, as I am not a low knob fan. And I have a few of each, so don’t really need them.

Seller is asking $50. So $40 is in the ballpark. Some people just get a price in their head and don't budge. I know some tire of endless low ball offers. If offer is fair I am happy to make the offer and say why.

Thanks all. Shall see where we go.
 

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Mintgrun

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Well, if tenon cutters are planes, then I'll put this one here. I don't see any maker's marks, but I have not removed any rust. I don't think I want to.

This one cuts 7/8" tenons.

IMG_5585.jpg

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IMG_5588.jpg

IMG_5589.jpg

Tom
 

b.well

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Well, if tenon cutters are planes, then I'll put this one here. I don't see any maker's marks, but I have not removed any rust. I don't think I want to.

This one cuts 7/8" tenons.

Tom

Interesting tool. I would so throw that in my E-tank! If small enough maybe give evaporust a try. I do like to take the rust off. Sometimes WD40 and a brass brush does the trick.
 

Old Radar

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I don't see the break. I brightened the shadows and reattached here. If I see in person I'll definitely take a closer look.

I'll have to retract my statement. In the first pic, the white paint blob looked like it was highlighting a sharp break in the back of the tote but in the new pic it just looks like that point is on the table.
 

b.well

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Hard to say with this pic how well they would clean up. A bath will make a huge difference. What will it uncover? If only surface rust no problem. If no broken wood even better. Electrolysis is great for heavier rust but sometimes takes the paint too.



I don't see the break. I brightened the shadows and reattached here. If I see in person I'll definitely take a closer look.



Seller is asking $50. So $40 is in the ballpark. Some people just get a price in their head and don't budge. I know some tire of endless low ball offers. If offer is fair I am happy to make the offer and say why.

Thanks all. Shall see where we go.

Seller posted a new pic and already marked the planes sold based on my ask to come see them and only buy them if good brand and not damaged. I also offered $40 for the planes. In this new pic I think I see the possible crack Radar saw previously in the No6 tote. I circled it in red.
 

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CRSINMICH

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Mintgrun: I found several listings for your type of tenon cutter. Most gave no information about them but one did call it "no name". Jim Bode Tools sold one for $29 which they called "unmarked". I even saw one that had separate dies for cutting different diameter tenons. It also looks like there are modern versions that fit drill drivers. Who knew?
 

Mintgrun

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Thanks for the info. I used a couple of modern ones to make a deck railing once. They cut a cove into the shoulder, as opposed to a sharp corner, like this little one makes. They were also larger, cutting 1 1/2 and 2" tenons. I had a lot of them to do, so I mounted the drill horizontally and set up little casters to center the incoming parts.
591269-R1-33-34_034.jpg

591269-R1-31-32_032.jpg


That was a fun project. Sharing the story and these photos is a bit of a tangent for the handplanes thread, but that was the job that made me appreciate tenon cutters. I also used a number 4 Bailey plane to smooth the outside of the rails and posts...

591270-R1-16-16A_017.jpg
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
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13,091
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SF Bay Area
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Jim C.

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
2,598
Hard to say with this pic how well they would clean up. A bath will make a huge difference. What will it uncover? If only surface rust no problem. If no broken wood even better. Electrolysis is great for heavier rust but sometimes takes the paint too.......

B,

Regardless of how well they clean up, they’re USER quality planes. Forty bucks for both would be the max. Again, being old doesn’t necessarily make them rare of overly valuable. If that tote is cracked, it’ll cost you at least $15-$20 to replace it. Factor that into your offer to the seller.

Jim C.
 

carlgrover

Active member
Joined
Jun 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
alabama
B,

Regardless of how well they clean up, they’re USER quality planes. Forty bucks for both would be the max. Again, being old doesn’t necessarily make them rare of overly valuable. If that tote is cracked, it’ll cost you at least $15-$20 to replace it. Factor that into your offer to the seller.

Jim C.

The 6 in the back looks to be missing the lateral adjust lever. A broken tote can be remade from a piece of your favorite hardwood unless you're a collector. The 5 looks like a Stanley based on the big "5" on the back of the base and the shape of the lateral adjust lever. (looks like a "T"). I wouldn't go a dime over $30 for the pair if I really wanted them. As far as overall condition, those could be cleaned up to look brand new. I've rehabbed far worse.

carl
 

Jim C.

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
2,598
The 6 in the back looks to be missing the lateral adjust lever. A broken tote can be remade from a piece of your favorite hardwood unless you're a collector. The 5 looks like a Stanley based on the big "5" on the back of the base and the shape of the lateral adjust lever. (looks like a "T"). I wouldn't go a dime over $30 for the pair if I really wanted them. As far as overall condition, those could be cleaned up to look brand new. I've rehabbed far worse.

carl

Hey Carl,

Honestly I’d pass on both. Once a plane crosses from the collector quality category into the user quality arena, that’s where it stays for the rest of its life. It really can’t go back. If left as is, it’s clearly a user, if gently cleaned and tuned up, it still retains its cosmetic flaws and is still a user. If stripped down/refinished/repainted/touched up/wire wheeled/etc. then the factory originality is destroyed, again relegating it to the user category. They’re only factory original once. Granted, there are different levels of user quality planes and those at the top of the category, just below the collector quality range, can be tough to distinguish between. Making that determination is a matter of experience and discipline. More than once I’ve paid a collector quality price for a nice user quality plane. If you get caught up with a plane’s rarity, the fact that you’re actually holding it in your hands, etc...... Suddenly all good sense goes right out the window. Still, it’s nice to have a top quality user. With a light cleaning, lubrication of the moving parts, regrind/hone the iron and its ready to go.

Take a look at the #4 1/2 below. It’s in nice condition for a plane that’s about 90 years old. From a distance, it looks like a collector quality plane, but look a little closer. See how the japanning is worn off the top edges? There’s just enough missing to take the plane into the user category. It’s a top notch user, but still a user. This is one of those planes I was referring to above. It’s really close to collector quality. It fooled me early on when I started getting interested in old Stanleys. I paid a little too much for it because I overestimated its condition. Live and learn I guess.

Jim C.
 

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