Show us your VFD conversions/installations

[whateg01]

I’ve had this 20” disc sander for a few years. I’ve slowly gathered the parts to convert to a VFD with braking resistor. It takes about 45 minutes to coast to a stop. I’ve used this enclosure on another VFD setup and it works well. I drew up the U shaped clamps to mount the enclosure at the bottom of the column.
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Machined out of 3/4” expanded pvc sheet with brass threaded inserts.
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Enclosure mounted up. It’s quite solid and I think it will work well.
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More to follow as time allows..

That looks just like a buddy's sander. I know he has been converting a bunch of stuff to 3ph, and I know he has about 6 motors right now.

Dave

 

[slodat]

It’s alive!





Still dialing in the deceleration. Not convinced the braking resistor is being switched in..

 

[OccupantRJ]

Slodat, where did you get the enclosure and how expensive was it?

 

[slodat]

Enclosure is a Hoffman A12108ch 12" X 10" X 8" JIC Enclosure and A12p10 Panel. Looks like they are out of stock, but I’m betting they will have more. I used the same enclosure on my exhaust fan vfd. It was about $115 shipped.

Disconnect is an Eaton P1-32/EA/SVB. It was $50 shipped.

Makes for a very nice setup.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Thank you.

 

[930dreamer]

Nice work on the enclosure.

 

[Binkie]

I made a fan from a 3ph hydraulic cooler fan and vfd....handy for cooling car before service, or drying drywall, lol.

Originally was going to exhaust garage with it, but I can't be bothered right now...tired of scaffold work.

 

[MattT]

Still dialing in the deceleration. Not convinced the braking resistor is being switched in..

See if the resistor is has gotten warm AFTER the motor stops. Don't touch it while the motor is still running or you might get 400V DC

 

[slodat]

See if the resistor is has gotten warm AFTER the motor stops. Don't touch it while the motor is still running or you might get 400V DC

I put a voltmeter across it and it never went above 0.02vdc. I don’t know what the deal is with the braking. I have decel set to 90 seconds and it stopped faulting the drive. Best I could get today..

 

[manwithtools]

It’s alive!





Still dialing in the deceleration. Not convinced the braking resistor is being switched in..

Nice job, Did you check the recommended size of the enclosure? VFD's need to be able dissipate heat - otherwise life is shortened. Normally braking resistors are mounted externally with a guard around them so there heat does not add to the VFD's heat generation. In your case I'd be careful if you move it external; due to possible dust build up on the resistor.

 

[slodat]

There’s no appreciable temperature rise the way I use it. I ran it for an hour, with several start/stops. Same temperature after as the start. I’ve done several like this and have had great results. The braking resistor is cold to the touch after several start/stops when I was intentionally trying to heat it up.

 

[laser3kw]

I put a voltmeter across it and it never went above 0.02vdc. I don’t know what the deal is with the braking. I have decel set to 90 seconds and it stopped faulting the drive. Best I could get today..

check to see if there is a control parameter that turns the brake function on / off. You should see a voltage when it is dumping to the resistor.
It may be set to "coast to stop" which inhibits the brake.
PS - I just noticed the drum switch which seems to have connection between the motor and the VFD? If so I hope you are not using it to interrupt the power from the VFD and the motor (on /off - forward / reverse). That will lead to VFD failure.
Or did you run both high (motor) and low voltage (vfd 10v dc control functions on/off- forward/ reverse) in the same conduit?

 

[slodat]

Slodat, where did you get the enclosure and how expensive was it?

Just found another enclosure that’s the same size, for a few bucks less. Looks like a good option.

 

[Johnny_V]

Here's one for even less.

https://www.factorymation.com/MUS0302521PER5

 

[8mpg]

With those enclosures, do you guys not worry about the heat build up from the VFD? I have a cheap Huanyang and that dang fan runs all the time. I read online though that they dont need to and if you dont run your machine hard, its not big deal.

Just wondering.

 

[930dreamer]

I think my Teco fan runs all the time also.

 

[Johnny_V]

I put vent holes in the top of my enclosure. I also put a hand held digital thermometer on the Teco FM50 after running for over an hour with no appreciable temperature increase (3° rise)

 

[laser3kw]

we build equipment with up to four VFDs in one cabinet, some rated for 20 hp. This equipment runs non stop for full shifts. We rarely experience heat related problems (vfd thermal trips). The only time we install cabinet coolers is when the normal ambient is above 90° or in higher elevations. In some cases, the vfd is mounted through cabinet with the cooling fins mounted outside the cabinet (electronics are inside)
If you put holes in the top, make sure metallic dust can get back down into it as that could cause problems.

 

[zmotorsports]

It’s alive!



Still dialing in the deceleration. Not convinced the braking resistor is being switched in..

Excellent job Steven. Nice save on the disc sander.

 

[slodat]

Excellent job Steven. Nice save on the disc sander.

Thank you, Mike! I've always wanted one of the big disc sanders. This guy popped up on craigslist a few years ago for a fair price, and I felt like driving all day. I slowly got the parts needed and stacked them on it as they arrived. I finally had one of those days where I wanted a fun project and got it running. It's a great machine!

 

[brianpgriset]

So I'm working on a vfd conversion for a 1.5hp drill press. Already bought a Teco L510 and bench tested it out and all is good. Setting up controls. My question is this: is there a reasonably priced 10k pot that Looks like a common industrial lever switch? Something not so expensive? The cheapest I've found is the $35 dollar one on Factorymation. Is there a cheaper one out there? Is was surprised to not find one on Amazon.

 

[manwithtools]

So I'm working on a vfd conversion for a 1.5hp drill press. Already bought a Teco L510 and bench tested it out and all is good. Setting up controls. My question is this: is there a reasonably priced 10k pot that Looks like a common industrial lever switch? Something not so expensive? The cheapest I've found is the $35 dollar one on Factorymation. Is there a cheaper one out there? Is was surprised to not find one on Amazon.

I'm not sure what you mean by "looks like a common industrial lever switch". Can you explain more or perhaps share a picture of what you seek?

Edit: Ignore my question, I found the item on Factorymation you are referring too. That's typically called a Lever Operator Potentiometer and they are not real common in my experience, a round knob is more common.

Here's a 22mm version for $11 : https://smile.amazon.com/FidgetFidget-LA42DWQ-22-Variable-Speed-Potentiometer/dp/B07GRQWXLJ?sa-no-redirect=1

 

[slodat]

So I'm working on a vfd conversion for a 1.5hp drill press. Already bought a Teco L510 and bench tested it out and all is good. Setting up controls. My question is this: is there a reasonably priced 10k pot that Looks like a common industrial lever switch? Something not so expensive? The cheapest I've found is the $35 dollar one on Factorymation. Is there a cheaper one out there? Is was surprised to not find one on Amazon.

I use Allen Bradley 800T series control components- switches, indicating lamps, etc. They offer a potentiometer. I bought one on eBay. Don’t remember the cost.

 

[brianpgriset]

I already looked at used AB stuff on ebay used switches going for $40 +. No thanks!

 

[930dreamer]

I have this pile of parts if you can use some of it?

 

[Strouty]

I have a couple drawers that look just like that box, in fact I think I have a couple of boxes just like that too. Hoarders unite!

 

[Davefr]

So I'm working on a vfd conversion for a 1.5hp drill press. Already bought a Teco L510 and bench tested it out and all is good. Setting up controls. My question is this: is there a reasonably priced 10k pot that Looks like a common industrial lever switch? Something not so expensive? The cheapest I've found is the $35 dollar one on Factorymation. Is there a cheaper one out there? Is was surprised to not find one on Amazon.

Why do you want to use a large pot like that?

With a VFD you can mount a separate remote control box right at the DP head which will make speed and start/stop adjustments very convenient. You'll need to use small/low current components but that's OK since they're inputs to the VFD.

 

[brianpgriset]

Ok need some more help. I was gonna reuse the contactor and CT if possible. I am cheap. The contactor has a 24v coil, which I tested and it works fine. To supply 24v I wanted to also reuse the CT that was wit the drill pres but I need some help with the wiring. I know X2 to X2 is supposed to supply the 24V. My question is on the high side. There is a "COM", then H1 to H5 with decreasing voltages. The impedance increases from the 115 volt terminal to the 460 volt terminal from about 12 ohm to 160 ohm.

To get 24V at X2 and X2 can I just connect single phase hot legs of 240v to com and H3? Or is this even usable on single phase?

Pic attached for reference.

 

[brianpgriset]

Why do you want to use a large pot like that?

With a VFD you can mount a separate remote control box right at the DP head which will make speed and start/stop adjustments very convenient. You'll need to use small/low current components but that's OK since they're inputs to the VFD.

Honestly? Just looks. I know I can use $4 dollar one from eBay but the big 22mm or 30mm buttons look so dang cool

 

[brianpgriset]

Drill press in question. Full restore is done. Don't ask about the single phase motor, that's a whole 'nother story.

 

[Davefr]

Ok need some more help. I was gonna reuse the contactor and CT if possible. I am cheap. The contactor has a 24v coil, which I tested and it works fine. To supply 24v I wanted to also reuse the CT that was wit the drill pres but I need some help with the wiring. I know X2 to X2 is supposed to supply the 24V. My question is on the high side. There is a "COM", then H1 to H5 with decreasing voltages. The impedance increases from the 115 volt terminal to the 460 volt terminal from about 12 ohm to 160 ohm.

To get 24V at X2 and X2 can I just connect single phase hot legs of 240v to com and H3? Or is this even usable on single phase?

Pic attached for reference.

Excuse my ignorance, but why are you fooling with all this ^^^ if you're using a VFD to control the DP.

All you need to do is supply single phase to the VFD and it will electronically supply/control the 3 phase going to the motor??

Are you proposing using a magnetic starter to turn on the VFD??

 

[brianpgriset]

Yes, I want to power up using the contractor. The vid will be in a NEMA 4 enclosure, my garage can get pretty dusty. It will also be remotely mounted from the controls.

The other reason I am making it so complicated is because it’s fun and that’s what I want to do!

 

[OccupantRJ]

Brian, In my opinion, you would use H3and H6 for a 240 volt input, and the X terminals would be your output at 24 volts.

 

[slodat]

Yes, H6 and H3 for 240v primary.

 

[brianpgriset]

Thanks guys. I'll test it out tonight and measure to verify 24V.

 

[brianpgriset]

27 volts . I think got everything worked out how I want it.

Just one more question... for now. Should I put a fuse block in this thing for vfd overcurrent protection?

 

[manwithtools]

Sure, can't hurt a thing. Check the VFD manual for over current protection recommendations. Many times they are larger than you might guess based on motor HP.

 

[Davefr]

27 volts . I think got everything worked out how I want it.

Just one more question... for now. Should I put a fuse block in this thing for vfd overcurrent protection?

The L510 already has built in overcurrent modes to protect itself. However I don't see why extra protection would hurt. It would be like wearing a belt and suspenders.

If you're using a magnetic starter, just use it's own built in heater circuit to shut things down.

 

[manwithtools]

The L510 already has built in overcurrent modes to protect itself. However I don't see why extra protection would hurt. It would be like wearing a belt and suspenders.

If you're using a magnetic starter, just use it's own built in heater circuit to shut things down.

The internal overcurrent is a bit misleading. It protects the VFD and motor if there is a problem with the motor or the load it is operating that causes the motor to draw too much current (looks like over 200% of the drive rating in the case of L510).

External overcurrent protection will protect the wiring feeding the VFD itself if a fault occurs in the VFD and/or motor. This protection could be fusing or a motor protection circuit breaker.

If using a contactor to control input power to the VFD, do not use the heater or thermal overload arrangement from a conventional motor starter. Instead, set the thermal overload parameter in the drive to protect the motor from thermal overload and use the contactor for on/off control of the incoming VFD power only.

 

[brianpgriset]

Thanks guys. Only will have a a fuse block and he contactor (for on/off control) between power and vfd. I am going to toss the motor overloads thst came with the 3 phase arrangement.