Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!

[fishwatcher]

I’m new to this thread and to grinders in general.

I just picked up this Mac Tools 6” bench grinder for $25. Catalog # BG612R 3.1 amps.



Any ideas on model, history or background on this? By luck or chance, is this a built-by-Baldor grinder? It looks more heavily built that the typical stamped metal MIC grinder.

It has seen extensive use, but turns on and runs smoothly, and so far I only see one spark arrestor missing.

Looks like a great candidate to clean up and use in addition to the Wilton I got a few weeks ago.



Not sure how I’ll configure the two between wire wheel, grinding stone and cloth polishing buffs.

Oh ya.. and then there’s the questionable spindle adapter with only one grub screw to hold onto the arbor.



I was considering grinding a V into the arbor for the grub screw to latch and tighten onto.

But now that I have two separate grinders, I could use the proper nuts and arbors with dedicated polishing and grinding duties.

 

[lafester]

I use extensions from zoro with two set screws. It still bothers me but I only use them with light 3m brushes.
They clean and polish as well as I need them to.

Yours looks like the light duty Baldor with aluminum guards and base. I would guess 70s era.

 

[tool_scrounge]

I’m new to this thread and to grinders in general.

I just picked up this Mac Tools 6” bench grinder for $25.



Any ideas on model, history or background on this? By luck or chance, is this a built-by-Baldor grinder? It looks more heavily built that the typical stamped metal MIC grinder.

looks like a Baldor grinder

 

[Shiftless]

fishwatcher:
You found a Baldor grinder that runs OK for just $25 ?

YOU ****!

 

[fishwatcher]

looks like a Baldor grinder

I’m really hoping this to be the case!

fishwatcher:
You found a Baldor grinder that runs OK for just $25 ?

YOU ****!

I said it runs smooth and I stand by that .

Baldor or not, it looks and feels like it’s a solid Grinder for a great price. It’ll be a fun clean up project.

I spend WAY too much time looking for deals like this and maybe finally got a good one. I sure hope somebody can confirm for sure.

Thanks @Shiftless for answering my PMs about this and other grinders I’ve been looking at.

I use extensions from zoro with two set screws. It still bothers me but I only use them with light 3m brushes.
They clean and polish as well as I need them to.

Yours looks like the light duty Baldor with aluminum guards and base. I would guess 70s era.

Very useful comments. Thank you!!

 

[lafester]

Here is a Baldor red 1/3 hp. Pretty much identical.

 

[fishwatcher]

Here is a Baldor red 1/3 hp. Pretty much identical.

Thanks! It’s confirmed then!

I found a few other posts with pics of red 6” Baldors that look like mine, including a beautiful restore by @old_radar (his picture below).



Baldor model 662R and in the case of yours 612R.

Mine won’t get this pretty, but it has already cleaned up nicely with just some paper towels, soapy water and alcohol.

 

[454ragtop]

That Mac grinder is a Baldor, likely made in 1992 by the serial no.

 

[fishwatcher]

That Mac grinder is a Baldor, likely made in 1992 by the serial no.

Thanks!

I cleaned it up today and put a newer grinding wheel on it. I’m very happy with it.

 

[ALLFAST]

Greetings Everyone,

For those of us rescuing vintage bench grinders that are missing their OEM side covers, here’s a nice method for recreating a respectable looking domed ( for the stone/wire wheel mounting hardware clearance) style side cover(s).

While fabricating a side cover from mild steel plate isn’t too difficult a task, creating that center domed section is a head scratcher.

Spring Creek Products offers weld on round steel ( deep domed, semi domed, and flat) pipe fence caps.

They have the following diameter caps: 1-5/8, 1-7/8, 2-3/8, 2-7/8, 3-1/2, 4-00, 4-1/2, 5-1/2, 6-5/8 and 8-5/8.”

(***4-1/2” cap is 1-1/2” high and approx 12 gauge/ 7/64” thick ***)

They are extremely well priced, and I’m not a paid spokesperson .

There will obviously be some low level fitting/welding skills required but it’s a low buck method for sure…

It beats scrounging eBay for potential candidates or having to drill a big clearance hole for the lock nuts.



Good luck and stay safe!

 

[fishwatcher]

Thanks!

I cleaned it up today and put a newer grinding wheel on it. I’m very happy with it.

Replying to my own post, but seeking advice from the GJ collective.

I want to repaint this grinder, but I’m intimidated by having to undo and redo wiring. Disassembly of Wilton vises was straightforward.. but without basic electronics knowledge, I’m afraid I might mess up something that’s not broken.

Will I run into potential issues regarding the wiring or reassembly? I’d hate to loosen something and not be able to get it back tight. Any step by step how-tos for restoring a Baldor (links would be excellent)? I’ve watched others do it in videos, but they don’t usually explain how they do everything (and don’t film it all either).

I’m tempted to leave it alone, or maybe to paint the outside and keep what I can’t disassemble in tact. In fact, I’m thinking I would paint around the labels and stickers (would that be dumb looking?).

I’ve already not been able to remove one of the inner stone wheel flanges (it spins but refuses to slide off the arbor).

Thanks for your pointers.

 

[ALLFAST]

Replying to my own post, but seeking advice from the GJ collective.

I want to repaint this grinder, but I’m intimidated by having to undo and redo wiring. Disassembly of Wilton vises was straightforward.. but without basic electronics knowledge, I’m afraid I might mess up something that’s not broken.

Will I run into potential issues regarding the wiring or reassembly? I’d hate to loosen something and not be able to get it back tight. Any step by step how-tos for restoring a Baldor (links would be excellent)? I’ve watched others do it in videos, but they don’t usually explain how they do everything (and don’t film it all either).

I’m tempted to leave it alone, or maybe to paint the outside and keep what I can’t disassemble in tact. In fact, I’m thinking I would paint around the labels and stickers (would that be dumb looking?).

I’ve already not been able to remove one of the inner stone wheel flanges (it spins but refuses to slide off the arbor).

Thanks for your pointers.

I agree with your desire to clean it up further. If you aren’t comfortable ripping it completely apart, I would suggest the following:

•Replace the clear shields with new ones
•Install new rubber feet cushions underneath
•Straighten/hand polish ( with 0000 S/W or gray scotch brite) all the tests, guards, shield mounts , hardware with WD-40.
•With some mineral spirits ( not a ton) I’d very lightly wipe the red paint into the exposed bare metal surfaces-do this with the image of preserving your paint while gently pushing it onto the bare surfaces.

This might revitalize the bare metal areas. You could then spray a satin clear aerosol ( after masking off appropriate areas) over the entire body and shrouds. The clear will give it some pop; if you don’t like the end result, lightly scuff with WD-40 and steel wool. That would tone it down but not destroy the patina look.

By detailing the hardware ,doing new bumper feet , eye shields and clear coat, you’ll give it a very nice but patina preserved look-the overall look will be very impressive.

In the mean time look for a similar model derelict grinder to fully restore which would build your skills with bearings/wiring, etc. If you have success there, and still want to restore your red wonder, then you can dive in on its rehab.

If your as found picture is a “3” and your cleanup is a “6” , by doing a next level “detail in place” your grinder might be a 7.5 on the sanitary patina look.

That’s what I would do…

 

[fishwatcher]

I agree with your desire to clean it up further. If you aren’t comfortable ripping it completely apart, I would suggest the following:

•Replace the clear shields with new ones
•Install new rubber feet cushions underneath
•Straighten/hand polish ( with 0000 S/W or gray scotch brite) all the tests, guards, shield mounts , hardware with WD-40.
•With some mineral spirits ( not a ton) I’d very lightly wipe the red paint into the exposed bare metal surfaces-do this with the image of preserving your paint while gently pushing it onto the bare surfaces.

This might revitalize the bare metal areas. You could then spray a satin clear aerosol ( after masking off appropriate areas) over the entire body and shrouds. The clear will give it some pop; if you don’t like the end result, lightly scuff with WD-40 and steel wool. That would tone it down but not destroy the patina look.

By detailing the hardware ,doing new bumper feet , eye shields and clear coat, you’ll give it a very nice but patina preserved look-the overall look will be very impressive.

In the mean time look for a similar model derelict grinder to fully restore which would build your skills with bearings/wiring, etc. If you have success there, and still want to restore your red wonder, then you can dive in on its rehab.

If your as found picture is a “3” and your cleanup is a “6” , by doing a next level “detail in place” your grinder might be a 7.5 on the sanitary patina look.

That’s what I would do…

I agree with your desire to clean it up further. If you aren’t comfortable ripping it completely apart, I would suggest the following:

•Replace the clear shields with new ones
•Install new rubber feet cushions underneath
•Straighten/hand polish ( with 0000 S/W or gray scotch brite) all the tests, guards, shield mounts , hardware with WD-40.
•With some mineral spirits ( not a ton) I’d very lightly wipe the red paint into the exposed bare metal surfaces-do this with the image of preserving your paint while gently pushing it onto the bare surfaces.

This might revitalize the bare metal areas. You could then spray a satin clear aerosol ( after masking off appropriate areas) over the entire body and shrouds. The clear will give it some pop; if you don’t like the end result, lightly scuff with WD-40 and steel wool. That would tone it down but not destroy the patina look.

By detailing the hardware ,doing new bumper feet , eye shields and clear coat, you’ll give it a very nice but patina preserved look-the overall look will be very impressive.

In the mean time look for a similar model derelict grinder to fully restore which would build your skills with bearings/wiring, etc. If you have success there, and still want to restore your red wonder, then you can dive in on its rehab.

If your as found picture is a “3” and your cleanup is a “6” , by doing a next level “detail in place” your grinder might be a 7.5 on the sanitary patina look.

That’s what I would do…

Great advice. Thank you @ALLFAST

Clear shields - will keep in mind (and an eye out for) replacements. I think these are riveted on.. and I don’t want to spend a bunch so I’m fine with their cleaned up condition. Plastic polish might be another option.
Steel guards and bolts - all have been wire wheeled and buffer polished clean. Happy with this current state. Further polishing makes sense (I like 3M micro mesh paper results). I’ve ordered another spark arrestor so I have all parts in tact.
Rubber feet - replaced
Current paint - wiped with degreaser and alcohol. I didn’t try mineral spirits as the earlier cleaning pulled paint flakes off and onto my towel. Interesting that mineral spirits can spread the paint into bare metal areas. I was afraid it would take off too much additional paint.
Satin Clear - exactly what I was wondering about. I’m good with a sanitary patina look. Any particular brand or type of clear spray?
Full rehab with practice on a beater - possibly. I wonder what beater grinders would be built most closely to this Baldor? Prefer not to sink more $’s on another piece of gear.

Would still like to see any restore videos with the steps.

Thanks!

 

[ALTEREGO]

Greetings Everyone,

For those of us rescuing vintage bench grinders that are missing their OEM side covers, here’s a nice method for recreating a respectable looking domed ( for the stone/wire wheel mounting hardware clearance) style side cover(s).

While fabricating a side cover from mild steel plate isn’t too difficult a task, creating that center domed section is a head scratcher.

Spring Creek Products offers weld on round steel ( deep domed, semi domed, and flat) pipe fence caps.

They have the following diameter caps: 1-5/8, 1-7/8, 2-3/8, 2-7/8, 3-1/2, 4-00, 4-1/2, 5-1/2, 6-5/8 and 8-5/8.”

(***4-1/2” cap is 1-1/2” high and approx 12 gauge/ 7/64” thick ***)

They are extremely well priced, and I’m not a paid spokesperson .

There will obviously be some low level fitting/welding skills required but it’s a low buck method for sure…

It beats scrounging eBay for potential candidates or having to drill a big clearance hole for the lock nuts.



Good luck and stay safe!

Thank you @ALLFAST! I really appreciate this kind of information! Do you mind sharing where do you usually get the rubber feet and other such items? Any other similar tips on refurbishing grinders (or bench vises)?

Thank you!

 

[ALLFAST]

Thank you @ALLFAST! I really appreciate this kind of information! Do you mind sharing where do you usually get the rubber feet and other such items? Any other similar tips on refurbishing grinders (or bench vises)?

Thank you!

Hello Alter-ego,

Thank you for the kind words. I think if you take your old rubber foot ( or any small bushing, pin, fastener) down to any decent hardware store, your creativity ( and a great hardware selection) will be your guide. You should go snooping through all of those large automotive and heavy duty hardware cabinets, as they are filled with cool stuff.

If you’re simply upgrading or improving a years old worn part ( or minor to moderate flaw) , good old ingenuity and basic hand/power tools should get you where you need to be with nearly all projects.

The GJ vintage tool board is a INVALUABLE source of expertise on countless levels: If you can’t find an answer or accurate information from an professional trades person or expert hobbyist here, it’s probably not going to be found.

I’m no expert, but I manage to get my old projects squared away with my limited tool setup; I know how to get help through my circle of garage machinists /craftsmen friends for major project flaws.

That’s half the fun. If you have any particular questions don’t hesitate to pm me.

Stay safe!

Shawn

 

[ALTEREGO]

Hello Alter-ego,

Thank you for the kind words. I think if you take your old rubber foot ( or any small bushing, pin, fastener) down to any decent hardware store, your creativity ( and a great hardware selection) will be your guide. You should go snooping through all of those large automotive and heavy duty hardware cabinets, as they are filled with cool stuff.

If you’re simply upgrading or improving a years old worn part ( or minor to moderate flaw) , good old ingenuity and basic hand/power tools should get you where you need to be with nearly all projects.

The GJ vintage tool board is a INVALUABLE source of expertise on countless levels: If you can’t find an answer or accurate information from an professional trades person or expert hobbyist here, it’s probably not going to be found.

I’m no expert, but I manage to get my old projects squared away with my limited tool setup; I know how to get help through my circle of garage machinists /craftsmen friends for major project flaws.

That’s half the fun. If you have any particular questions don’t hesitate to pm me.

Stay safe!

Shawn

@ALLFAST on the contrary, thank you! People like you make this forum such a great place! I bet I will have a couple of questions for you soon, I'm hoping to refurbished a couple old bench grinders that I recently found. Thanks again Shawn, I sincerely appreciate it!

 

[ALLFAST]

Anytime, and thanks for the kind words again !
Look forward to helping if I can.

Happy Weekend,

Shawn

 

[rktinc]

$20 garage sale find that my dad restored and turned into a buffing machine for my new shop. Love it!

 

[tombell572]

Alterego--here's one source for rubber feet to fit a grinder: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rubber/mount-type~screw/

Tom B.

 

[fishwatcher]

Thank you @ALLFAST! I really appreciate this kind of information! Do you mind sharing where do you usually get the rubber feet and other such items? Any other similar tips on refurbishing grinders (or bench vises)?

Thank you!

You can find some on Amazon. Maybe go for soft rubber instead of the harder rubber feet. I had some harder rubber or plastic feet handy and they do the job. I used the original screws so thread fit wouldn’t be an issue.

$20 garage sale find that my dad restored and turned into a buffing machine for my new shop. Love it!

Beautiful!! Lucky guy to have your dad do that.

 

[ALLFAST]

Alterego--here's one source for rubber feet to fit a grinder: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rubber/mount-type~screw/

Tom B.

Thanks for the feet suggestions TomB and Fish…duly noted

 

[ALLFAST]

You can find some on Amazon. Maybe go for soft rubber instead of the harder rubber feet. I had some harder rubber or plastic feet handy and they do the job. I used the original screws so thread fit wouldn’t be an issue.



Beautiful!! Lucky guy to have your dad do that.

Looks like a sweet family heirloom

 

[ALTEREGO]

Alterego--here's one source for rubber feet to fit a grinder: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rubber/mount-type~screw/

Tom B.

@tombell572 thank you! McMaster to the rescue again!

 

[ALLFAST]

My father in law gave me this very old Baldor. I’m trying to identify what year it is because I haven’t seen the squarish versions before. He inherited it from his Grandpa. It runs unbelievably smooth but I can’t seem to figure out what year it is. The data plate is very faded but it says “Type P8925”. Anybody here know anything about it?


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

I’ve PMd you but this is a 1933 to late 1939 Baldor square case. Looks like 1/2 Hp? My 1 horse weighed 175 in full battle gear, so yours must be 140 ish ?!

 

[ALLFAST]

If

$20 garage sale find that my dad restored and turned into a buffing machine for my new shop. Love it!

if I didn’t already post, your Dad did a fine job ! That’s very impressive. Did he use some form of an antique farm implement rim?

 

[rktinc]

If

if I didn’t already post, your Dad did a fine job ! That’s very impressive. Did he use some form of an antique farm implement rim?

yes he likes to use heavy rims and pipe to add weight Built in theft prevention!

 

[ALLFAST]

yes he likes to use heavy rims and pipe to add weight Built in theft prevention!

 

[trents99]

My lineup:

Diehl ZA42-6 on a Dayton stand.
Craftsman 1/2hp with stand that is shown next to the Diehl.
Thor B6S with a Taiwan special behind it on the same stand.

 

[crazylunker]

here’s one that’s been sitting under my bench for years I acquired with the cord cut, just curious if anybody else has ever seen one? I should probably just get rid of it and stop hoarding things.

 

[Outlawmws]

I suspect that Fidelity motor to be for a shoe buffing machine. I see them with two different colored buffing wheels.

What is throwing me off is its apparent age and the voltage. This had to be in the 110V oir 117V era but its showing with 120V?

 

[crazylunker]

I suspect that Fidelity motor to be for a shoe buffing machine. I see them with two different colored buffing wheels.

What is throwing me off is its apparent age and the voltage. This had to be in the 110V oir 117V era but its showing with 120V?

That would would explain. 2 speed switch.

 

[robwisch]

Okay, I've been looking for vintage grinder threads and couldn't find any. So here we are. Here is my unknown grinder I'm restoring, bought it for $10:

[/IMG]
Here it is torn apart, and sand blasted:

[/IMG]

It's been painted but no clue what the manufacturer is just acquired out of storage unit

 

[drivesitfar]

Anyone have a favorite wire wheel that they use to get old cast and steel naked? Please do tell and if you have a link to Amazon or favorite store please include it.

 

[Dig Doug]

I have this same bench grinder with out the light and it’s starting to smoke some. Can it be rebuilt?

can anyone point me in a direction for a rebuild? Is this a simple fix new brushes?

I got the bench grinder from my grandfather after he passed away I’ve had it 27 years ! Still have the original sales receipt

Thank you for any help !

How's this for 3 Jacksons and about 6 hours of polishing?

 

[exmaxima1]

I recently bought a workbench that came with an unmarked 6" grinder. I know it was made by Kingston-Conley so it was probably either an Atlas, Stanley, Thor, Blue Point, Hammond, etc. I'll assume it's a Stanley 1/3hp model as that was the most popular. I cleaned it, refinished it, lubed it, plus new cord/switch/feet/wheels. My buddy used to be the GM at Avery Label so he provided me with an assortment of reflective laminate for the center section (my wife proposed the final color scheme). I don't need another grinder, but this one is so smooth and powerful it's a pleasure to use.

 

[AntiqueBen]

I need some help. I got lucky & found this Cincinnati Tool Company 3/4hp grinder. Who I bought it from had it plugged in & it runs like a dream. It's a beast! I got it home & realized it's a 220v grinder. I only have 120v in my garage. The grinder is not a 110/220, it's only 220. Does anyone know of a clever way of running this somehow without running a dedicated 220 outlet? I've seen people make a pigtale that runs off of the hot of two separate outlets into one female 240 plug & then plugged their 220 machine into it & it worked just fine. This is an awesome grinder & I can't wait to use it. Any ideas??

 

[drivesitfar]

How’s your wiring skills ? I’m pretty sure you can run #10 wire to a 20 or 30 amp breaker if you have an opening on your box to give you 220 in your garage. I’m not sure this old Cincinnati grinders had a 110 option like some of the old Craftsman and other ones did

 

[AntiqueBen]

No, unfortunately this one is only a 220. I'm thinking running a 220 from my box is the safest way to go. It will be worth it though. I clean & restore a lot of tools & I would get a lot of use out of this one. I've seen other Cincinnati Tool Co tools, but I've never seen a grinder like this one.

 

[Outlawmws]

I've seen people make a pigtale that runs off of the hot of two separate outlets into one female 240 plug & then

I've done it many., many years back. Not recommended; not to code; and could case issues if one breaker tripped.

Add the circuit and do it right, or sell the grinder and find a 120V grinder.

In my case I pulled off two points in the basement of a Knob and tube house one from the front duplex and one from the back (Mine) and ran a buzz box off of it. I blew a lot of those glass screw in fuses so I made sure it was at night or weekends when the business up front was closed...

 

[Provincial]

I need some help. I got lucky & found this Cincinnati Tool Company 3/4hp grinder. Who I bought it from had it plugged in & it runs like a dream. It's a beast! I got it home & realized it's a 220v grinder. I only have 120v in my garage. The grinder is not a 110/220, it's only 220. Does anyone know of a clever way of running this somehow without running a dedicated 220 outlet? I've seen people make a pigtale that runs off of the hot of two separate outlets into one female 240 plug & then plugged their 220 machine into it & it worked just fine. This is an awesome grinder & I can't wait to use it. Any ideas??

Did it have the 120V plug on the cord when you bought it? If so, and it ran, someone may have either converted (motor rewind, or reconnecting internal leads) it or the motor may be a 110/220V version that was only labelled for 220V.