Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
Nice wood rack but I bet yours will lat longer than something store bought.
cspcrx
Well-known member
and you know its the exact size you wanted. great job.
ilovevocs
Well-known member
alpinewhite
Well-known member
Going back to what I learned from Vector Statics in college, torque has no location. Torque is torque regardless of where it's applied. So, no, it shouldn't change the torque.
One of those projects where you could by a cheaper one from the store but whats the fun in that:
And you can put a "Made In USA" label on it instead of "Made In China"
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Muckin_Slusher
Well-known member
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
LOL **** Rapids China
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
on todays episode of I buy junk..... I have a 75"x 41" 5/8 thick plate for a welding table/general bench.... been meaning to buy some 2x2 box tubing from the local steel yard and go to town on making a frame......
craiglsit score. 25 dollar machine frame. all 3/8 wall 2x2 box tubing. 1" thick feet drilled for casters, and 3" diameter self leveling feet.
I couldn't buy rusty scrap steel for that, let alone one foot...
Pulled it out of the truck, stood it on end, a set of 6" cast iron casters (from the scrap yard I took off something for 9 bucks)....
more to come....
craiglsit score. 25 dollar machine frame. all 3/8 wall 2x2 box tubing. 1" thick feet drilled for casters, and 3" diameter self leveling feet.
I couldn't buy rusty scrap steel for that, let alone one foot...
Pulled it out of the truck, stood it on end, a set of 6" cast iron casters (from the scrap yard I took off something for 9 bucks)....
more to come....
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
AngryBeaver, I hope you're happy. You made an old man cry.
Strouty
Well-known member
That frame means you **** for sure, nice score.
I need fix an aluminum tube that has a bracket welded on one side, it is now a banana, any ideas on how to fix it without starting over?
Take a torch with a brazing tip and heat a line identical and opposite to the welds and let it cool naturally. It'll probably take a few times to get it to match.
Personally I'd support each tube along its length and use a press but I you ya well enough you obviously ruled that out for some reason.
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Strouty
Well-known member
I have a really good reason, no press! 
Strouty
Well-known member
I was pretty sure heat would be involved, but what I wasn’t sure of is if I should wet it with a rag to shrink the opposite side or not. Nothing critical, just using this to hold up a folding clothes drying rack mounted to the corner of the deck. Honestly it is probably fine the way it is, but this is GJ, why not make it better???
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Be careful, aluminum doesn't react the same to a torch as steel. If you get it too hot it just falls apart. I would probably just use a dead blow.
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
i have a really good reason, no press!
lol...
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
BFH, support it on both ends when you apply the BFH...
...or buy the wife a clothes dryer for her birthday or Christmas you tight wad..
...better yet...give her a bag of quarters and a credit card and tell get to go to the laundry mat and pick up some beer on the way home...
...or buy the wife a clothes dryer for her birthday or Christmas you tight wad..
...better yet...give her a bag of quarters and a credit card and tell get to go to the laundry mat and pick up some beer on the way home...
Strouty
Well-known member
This thing is going to end up costing more than our electric dryer did. I have about $100 in materials so far, at least a day trying to figure things out, then machining. I am not even sure it will end up needing to be welded much at all. I will at least weld the bottom pieces together, just so I can post some pictures in this thread when I get done.
mr_magicfingers
Well-known member
Thanks very much, that makes sense to me now.
I got the bottom frame a couple of years ago, for $30 including the castors. Frame is 5mm wall sliding door track.
I cut it down a bit and added an RHS top. Top and cross members are 75x50x4mm RHS. Top bolts down to plates welded to the top of the legs.
The trolley was originally made as Melamine sheet cart. The two A frames were bolted either end. I combined them with a bench grinder column base plate I had just freed up, having made a dedicated grinder bench, and some of the offcuts from trimming the cart columns, to make a clamp rack.
I cut it down a bit and added an RHS top. Top and cross members are 75x50x4mm RHS. Top bolts down to plates welded to the top of the legs.
The trolley was originally made as Melamine sheet cart. The two A frames were bolted either end. I combined them with a bench grinder column base plate I had just freed up, having made a dedicated grinder bench, and some of the offcuts from trimming the cart columns, to make a clamp rack.
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spent21
Well-known member
did you even watch the video?
"you'll be able to see.... it does alter the torque"
Any time you change the effective length (and keep the initial force) you change the torque.
His comment about using the adapter at 90 degrees is the same is not correct either.... essentially he's decreased the added length (getting close to the set torque) but he's still greater than his ~25.4 ft/lb because the effective length is the hypotenuse resulting in the 26 ft/lb...
Granted, the difference may be marginal in this example (2%) it's still a difference.
cspcrx
Well-known member
That is an informative video, not in the discussion, but thank you for posting that. I have seen guys improperly torque AR uppers because its not 90deg.
Thanks again. I found it helpful.
Thanks again. I found it helpful.
Couple Finished Products, and an add on for the project
Stainless Beer Trough for the same restaurant didn't fit, they got a 72" one and only had 70 Inches of Space to put it in... so I had to take it all apart and cut it up and put it back together... .050 300 Series Stainless...
Stainless Beer Trough for the same restaurant didn't fit, they got a 72" one and only had 70 Inches of Space to put it in... so I had to take it all apart and cut it up and put it back together... .050 300 Series Stainless...
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AngryBeaver
Well-known member
made some headway on the mega bench. turns out the top that I thought was 5/8 is only 7/16".....
cut a bunch of receiver tubing and going to town making attachments and multiple mounting locations for things like, 8" grinder, 6" grinder, belt sander, Pipe vise, tubing bender, engine stand holder ( also for rebuilding transmissions), Vise mount, etc.
I cut off the one smaller electrical cabinet. the bigger one I'm not quite sure if I'm going to install shelving inside of ti for storing welding supplies, or wire it up as a central connection box for the three welders and plasma... time will tell on that one... right now its on the backside, with only 2" of overhang. front side has 4".
front right corner will have three hitch setups as that is the most used corner. probably have two on the left side front and then one on each side at the back edge. welded some 1/2 nuts for taking up the slop in the receiver.
I haven't burnt any 7018 in about 20 years. Instead of using my old tombstone, I gave the Everlast 250DX tig machine a try with some stick rod. the rod is probably 15-20 years old. lol
Picked up a brand new reed 4" pipe chain vise off ebay for 50 bucks the other day.
now, I just need to weld up some mounting plates, and then make some 2.5" storage receivers that I can weld on the legs to store everything out of the way.
cut a bunch of receiver tubing and going to town making attachments and multiple mounting locations for things like, 8" grinder, 6" grinder, belt sander, Pipe vise, tubing bender, engine stand holder ( also for rebuilding transmissions), Vise mount, etc.
I cut off the one smaller electrical cabinet. the bigger one I'm not quite sure if I'm going to install shelving inside of ti for storing welding supplies, or wire it up as a central connection box for the three welders and plasma... time will tell on that one... right now its on the backside, with only 2" of overhang. front side has 4".
front right corner will have three hitch setups as that is the most used corner. probably have two on the left side front and then one on each side at the back edge. welded some 1/2 nuts for taking up the slop in the receiver.
I haven't burnt any 7018 in about 20 years. Instead of using my old tombstone, I gave the Everlast 250DX tig machine a try with some stick rod. the rod is probably 15-20 years old. lol
Picked up a brand new reed 4" pipe chain vise off ebay for 50 bucks the other day.
now, I just need to weld up some mounting plates, and then make some 2.5" storage receivers that I can weld on the legs to store everything out of the way.
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Muckin_Slusher
Well-known member
Weld your 1/2 inch nuts on the corner of the receiver so they take up slop both ways (up/down and left/right).
BlueBomber
Well-known member
Angrybeaver: is that an engine block stand attachment I see in there?!?!
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I'm guessing he is using that for the transmission rebuilding that he mentioned above. I've seen several guys use this method to hold transmissions while they work on them.
Nice work Steve.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
sure is.... had three or four already and a buddy gave me parts to about six of them. couple of the stands were trashed so I had the mounting/pivot tube and some extra "heads" almost scrapped them a week or so before I got the frame and was digging through the scrap pile and thought, what the heck. why not. bench is north of 1500lbs now, it'll hold a small block or mod motor just fine
Just watch your toes when you test it out and snap a picture of an engine mounted up.
Finally building a welding table. Wanted one for years...finally have the space to have one
Is the frame under the table channel or I beam ?
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
Nice welding table above. Here are some beam hangers I fabbed up for this attic beam assembly. They did the trick. Took 3 inches of sag out of the ceiling joists. Good to store all kinds of stuff now. A customers attic not mine.
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BlueBomber
Well-known member
I'm more concerned about the weight of an engine block hanging that far out from the receiver. The moment arm calculation puts a lot of stress on that weld bead across the top of the receiver. I'd feel better if the tube that the head slips into were itself welded firmly to the edge of the table.
As Nuttsgt said, watch your toes when you test it out, and anytime you load it up further than the last.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Well, he will find out if he is good at welding....either it works or it doesn’t.
I have a good friend nick named “no toe Bo” due to his welds...
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AngryBeaver
Well-known member
no worries. valid concern. its more for transmission rebuilding but i'm going to put a fully dressed mod motor (4.6 DOHC) motor on it just to test it and prove a point. Have you ever used a cheap engine stand? they are built with 1/16" tubing to support the weight. You'd love the 2x2 box tube 4' lifting bar I have on the tractor bucket that has had 2K lbs on the end of it. my welded receiver on the bucket hasn't bent or broken in 4 years of heavy and abusive use.
I guess you've never towed anything with an overloaded tongue weight huh? most factory hitches are rated at 800lbs tongue weight. they are built with tubing welded to the sides of the receiver tube. I have, as well as everyone else here has whether they want to admit it or not. the hitches themselves haven't broken and the forces on the receiver tubing when the span between frame rails is much greater as the forces are in all directions when being towed. Down, then fore and aft, as well as side to side while turning. This is a 1/4" wall thickness tube that is 8" long welded solid to the underside of the top, the vertical side to the left and the back, and on the the bottom side to the 2x2 box tubing frame, as well as the top "face" that you see. that tubing was welded solid prior to the other receiver tubes being welded underneath the table...
The table is not finished, I just posted a few pictures as I was working on it the other day. There will be another receiver welded underneath it that will act as a "joist" so to speak. the engine stand mount was pulled out a few inches to snap a couple pictures. its less than 6" from the edge of the bench to the face of the pivot when it is in the "installed" position. no more than any standard receiver on a trailer. if this was a lightweight table, the forces from 1K lbs fully dressed engine would try and flip the table before ripping the mount off.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
AB, you obviously know what you are doing and I hope you'll post what you are doing with that table. I trust my welds to hold a pint of liquid in a plastic bottle so the work you are posting is inspiring. Keep up the good work (even though YOU **** for finding that damn near free table).