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Show us your welding projects

AngryBeaver

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
1,705
Location
Lake Milton Ohio
AB, you obviously know what you are doing and I hope you'll post what you are doing with that table. I trust my welds to hold a pint of liquid in a plastic bottle so the work you are posting is inspiring. Keep up the good work (even though YOU **** for finding that damn near free table).

HAHAHA thanks

used to be a certified welder, so alot of my welds in years past had to hold structural and critical applications. When I had a Photobucket account I had an entire front end loader build for an itty bitty diesel tractor. it weighed 890lbs about could pick up over 2K lbs. Built it all out of scrap and about 900 bucks in new hydraulic fittings and hoses/valves/cylinders. porta band was the only fancy tool used. even machined my own Hydraulic adapter to use the tractors hydraulics out of a chuck of a dozer cylinder and a belt sander and drill press.

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1600lb tractor

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45x48 bin of green oak.. google specs on 1/3 cord of green oak....1800-2K lbs
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PugetDude

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Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,296
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I'm more concerned about the weight of an engine block hanging that far out from the receiver. The moment arm calculation puts a lot of stress on that weld bead across the top of the receiver. I'd feel better if the tube that the head slips into were itself welded firmly to the edge of the table.

As Nuttsgt said, watch your toes when you test it out, and anytime you load it up further than the last.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Have you ever looked at an engine stand? :headscrat
 

BlueBomber

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
3,201
Location
Outside Boston, MA
no worries. valid concern. its more for transmission rebuilding but i'm going to put a fully dressed mod motor (4.6 DOHC) motor on it just to test it and prove a point.

This is a 1/4" wall thickness tube that is 8" long welded solid to the underside of the top, the vertical side to the left and the back, and on the the bottom side to the 2x2 box tubing frame, as well as the top "face" that you see. that tubing was welded solid prior to the other receiver tubes being welded underneath the table...
I have had a fully dressed '56 Desoto 1st-gen hemi on one of those cheap import engine stands and watched it bob and wag when I tightened a bolt at the front of the engine.

I am not a seasoned professional welder--I'm still happy when I release the trigger and I don't have a stack of hot booger welds awaiting the grinding wheel. So, I tend to overdo it for anything structural and weld every contact edge, as you describe above. I couldn't see all of the above welds in your pictures, hence the public worrying.

I've learned a lot from this site and this thread. Thanks for sharing your project.

BL: I'm sorry I questioned your design and would love to see more pics of the finished work fully encumbered with said mod motor.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

AngryBeaver

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
1,705
Location
Lake Milton Ohio
I know, the angry beaver thing cracks me up. If I could change your screen name, I would, but that's something has to do.

hahahaha..

well the angry beaver thing came about between that little tractor above (satoh beaver) and me welding up eaton blowers for the cobra guys. those eaton blowers only move 112 cubic inches of air per revolution. when I was on the craze for the fastest eaton in the country shootout I was playing with all kinds of welding/porting/experiments on the little M112 Eaton blowers. they can only flow what they take can take in. Dragon was the king throttle body to the record holders, even though it was the same size width as an accufab oval, but the dragon had more of a football snap instead of the accufab squared oval. the throttle bodies themselves flowed within 4cfm of each other, but the plenum (or elbow) necked way down on the stock and accufab elbows. So after some flow bench work and pure cheap *** determination i set out to prove to the cobra world that you didn't need the problematic dragon TB to make good numbers or run the best times.

buddy saw one that I have massively cut apart, stick welded some aluminum in places to open the inlet 100% more than it was, and hadn't finished it. he said it looks like an angry beaver ported it. the name kind of stuck. the first dozen or so blowers I stamped freakingstang. the last few were angry beaver.

I've lost the quest after my last attempt was stolen out of the back of my truck when it was done and I popped through the case while finishing up the porting and had it in the truck to take to a buddys after work to seal it up.

to this day ive got 4 out there that have cracked 600 rwhp on e85. I'm trying to get someone to get that done with a 93 combo but the days of me spending countless hours trying have done by the way side. its too easy to bolt a 2.3 tvs on one and make 750 wheel.

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I started playing around with some logos if I ever actually start a legit shop. its much more of a catchy name than freakingstang fabrication and restoration.... i'd need my own logos instead of stealing other google images and running with them before that ever happened.

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8mpg

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
350
Is the frame under the table channel or I beam ?

The frame under is 6" 10# channel. Its from a carport that was taken down. It was the support that went from column to column. All the steel except the top was from the RV carport that was attached to my barn. Took down the carport and enclosed the space to expand the garage. Legs are 3" 1/8" square tube.
 

AngryBeaver

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
1,705
Location
Lake Milton Ohio
Badass job on the tractor, I’d love to have one like it

traded an old roller fox body for it that was rotted out. guy bought his uncles mini farm and it was parked years before where it had run out of fuel. showed up, bled the fuel lines and jumped it. buddy was HOT when I drove it onto the trailer. they tried for days to get it running. 4x4 and 2 cyl diesel. the thing literally sipped fuel. It was literally the size of a garden tractor, but could do real tractor work. I was in in very cheap right after I bought my house and used it to re-grade the wetland that used to drain towards the house. actually built the loader to do that, but ended up finishing the loader the winter after fixing the yard.

IT was stout little tractor, but the fine spine Reversed Pto was hard to find backwards implements. no matter how hard I tried with double nutting or locktiting things, the blades on the mowers and brush hogs always came off. it was a great tractor for the time, but sucked to mow with. sold it for 4500 as a quick sale to buy a Kubota BX that was more lawn mower with a little loader and a hydraulic front dozer blade with a "hurt" motor. I had a smaller kubota lawn mower and had dealt with alot of kubota smaller motors with our gen sets at work so I took the chance.

still running that "hurt" motor to this day. is amazing what an electric lift pump will do. the thing ran, but barely. was getting a lean knock and only hitting on two cylinders.

I miss the lifting capacity of the one I built, but this is a better lawn mower that can do a few other things. I sold the kubota lawn mower last summer after keeping it around for years incase the BX needed a motor.

while we are on the tractors and not to derail from the thread, heres a few other welding projects.

made a set of 3 point forks out of an old pallet jack from the scrapyard. I use this to move crates of firewood around with the new tractor since the loader won't pick up more than 1K lbs. i gutted the tie bars and cylinder off of it. added a piece of 3" I beam on the inside where the pin mounts are. added some 3/8 angle for the pin mounts and some box tubing on the top for the top link. worked well until I got a free set of forks from a scrap forklift and made another that was adjustable. that can be seen in the snow pic. oh that roofline is 10' tall if that give you an idea of how much snow is there lol.

I also built a real weight ballast that can hang suitcase weights and also doubles as a trailer mover. this takes up way less room when moving engines and heavy things inside the shop than a box blade hanging off the back.

if you look close, on the little kubota garden tractor, you can see the front hitch i made. I made a snow plow setup for it and used the receiver setup as the Quick disconnect. I tied the lift for the snow plow into the mower lift deck with a three way valve since it was a fairly low pressure running off HST pressure. the Hyd line is wrapped up around the hitch in front in the picture with both tractors. you can also see the front weight box on the Satoh (also on a reese type front hitch). the beaver was so little, it needed 150-200lbs on the nose when running a brushog or box blade. also can be seen in one of the grading pics. it had a front PTO and I had to be created to get the hitch in the front without interfering with the pto setup.

I guess you can say I like my receiver setups.

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tarmy

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
4,661
Location
Nor Cal
Got a dump trailer finally...wanted a box to hold wheel chalks, tie downs and chain and junk...welded up a frame and added box...
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The crossmember with tie down loops is for the front end bucket on my tractor...
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,864
Location
Northern Central Ohio
The frame under is 6" 10# channel. Its from a carport that was taken down. It was the support that went from column to column. All the steel except the top was from the RV carport that was attached to my barn. Took down the carport and enclosed the space to expand the garage. Legs are 3" 1/8" square tube.



Thanks. Talk about putting material to a better use. :thumbup:
 

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,327
Location
Northern Utah
A little axle work from tonight.

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Bigblue&Goldie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
10,666
Location
AZ
I hate to post my **** next to Mike's, but here's my new bender setup. Tig'd 2.50", .250" wall square tubing, 1.00" .088" round supports, .750" solid stock for the die holders, .500" x 2.50" 4130 bar stock for bender mount, tube ends capped with .125" sheet.

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AngryBeaver

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
1,705
Location
Lake Milton Ohio

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zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,327
Location
Northern Utah
I hate to post my **** next to Mike's, but here's my new bender setup. Tig'd 2.50", .250" wall square tubing, 1.00" .088" round supports, .750" solid stock for the die holders, .500" x 2.50" 4130 bar stock for bender mount, tube ends capped with .125" sheet.

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Very nice looking cart for your bender. I have one I built about 15+ years ago that is very similar. I even used the same method of using some 01 drill rod welded to the upright to hang my dies on.

You're going to love the mobility and flexibility that having your tube bender on a cart gives. I only had my manual bender mounted to the floor for about a year before I converted it over to hydraulics and a wheeled cart and it was well worth the effort.
 

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,327
Location
Northern Utah
Badas. What filler are you using on the housing to tube joints? 309?

Thank you.

Nothing special on the filler. I was going to TIG it but I'm quite familiar with these Dana 44 housings and they are a nodular casting so there is a lot of carbon and they weld rather well. I did a cleaning then a quick pre-heat (mainly to rid of any oil or residue) then just used my .030" ER70S-6 solid core wire and cranked up the wire speed and voltage a bit higher than normal. I then bounced from side to side and around the tube to avoid any warping.

Thanks for the comments and I hope that was helpful.
 
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4EyedTurd

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
595
Location
Texas
traded an old roller fox body for it that was rotted out. guy bought his uncles mini farm and it was parked years before where it had run out of fuel. showed up, bled the fuel lines and jumped it. buddy was HOT when I drove it onto the trailer. they tried for days to get it running. 4x4 and 2 cyl diesel. the thing literally sipped fuel.
]

What was the blue tractor?
 

Bigblue&Goldie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
10,666
Location
AZ
My dad's been wanting a mud flap setup for when he pulls his 5th wheel as the front was getting hammered. We tried a set of Husky mud flaps, but they lasted one trip before we ripped one off. The commercially made hitch mounted flaps are wobbly garbage and "universal fit", which means they don't fit for ****. Made these out of 1.125" .065" DOM for the arms, 1.250" .065" for the center section, 2.500" seamless for the hitch piece, with .125" tabs. There's a nut welded on the bottom for a piece of .250" flat stock that cinches the center section to the bottom of the class V reciever. Mud flaps are some recycled rubber pieces held on by grade 8 bolts (because America). The arms are easily removed by removing the clevis pins and sliding them out. The hitch is also removed/changed out without removing the center section as the center section is now acting as the reducer to 2". Loaded with the 42' 5th wheel the flaps are only 2.5" off the ground......yes, they will scrape on bumps which is why the flaps are a soft rubber with no weights on them. Also, the rear backup sensors aren't effected (that drives me insane). Arms were tig welded, center was mostly mig'd. Sand blasted and coated with Steel-It. Dad was really happy when he saw it this morning.

Arms look like they curve down in the pic, but they are straight across, about .750" off the back bumper.
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Same width as tires, you don't see them in the mirrors.
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AngryBeaver

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
1,705
Location
Lake Milton Ohio
whipped up a couple angle iron bases and added some casters to a couple vidmar cabinets. they are both the same looking now. Picking up a 9' butcher block top tomorrow and then that will be covered by a 9' SS top from a commercial cooking prep table. the wheels will allow me to get them in place while the current useless cabinets are getting removed.

still have 3 more lista's to make another bench out of. finished these ones in a combination of hammered silver and hammered blue.

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mr_magicfingers

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
70
Location
Devon, UK
Hi folks,

after some practice welds, I have my first proper project, fixing a broken trailer, and I could do with a little advice please.

The trailer snapped as you can see in the picture below. I've stripped it down and I see two options. One is to weld the broken section back on and reinforce it with additional pieces around the tube and some triangular bracing between it and the main frame.

The alternative is to take out that main square tube all the way back and replace it with a new tube so it's one complete new piece welded onto the frame. which do you think would be best/strongest. Bear in mind I'm a very novice welder so I'm looking for the easiest one to do well.

After that I'm going to add a few additional cross bars to beef up the floor support.

The trailer is mainly used on the farm and for local journeys to pick up lumber and occasional a dumpy bag of stone.

Thanks.

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mr_magicfingers

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
70
Location
Devon, UK
probably not enough but will be doing some more before attacking it. Once I know which option to choose I can go to the steel stockist, pick up that and some more bits to practice on, working on the same joins in the same steel I'll be using on the trailer.
 

Strouty

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,210
Location
Southern Maine
In your situation, you should replace the entire piece and brace the new one. I would look for someone in your area that might be able to help you out. The fact that this is a trailer, one that you tow on actual roads, makes me want to say you should learn on something else. Post some pictures of your practice welds and people will tell you what looks good and what doesn't.
 

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,327
Location
Northern Utah
My dad's been wanting a mud flap setup for when he pulls his 5th wheel as the front was getting hammered. We tried a set of Husky mud flaps, but they lasted one trip before we ripped one off. The commercially made hitch mounted flaps are wobbly garbage and "universal fit", which means they don't fit for ****. Made these out of 1.125" .065" DOM for the arms, 1.250" .065" for the center section, 2.500" seamless for the hitch piece, with .125" tabs. There's a nut welded on the bottom for a piece of .250" flat stock that cinches the center section to the bottom of the class V reciever. Mud flaps are some recycled rubber pieces held on by grade 8 bolts (because America). The arms are easily removed by removing the clevis pins and sliding them out. The hitch is also removed/changed out without removing the center section as the center section is now acting as the reducer to 2". Loaded with the 42' 5th wheel the flaps are only 2.5" off the ground......yes, they will scrape on bumps which is why the flaps are a soft rubber with no weights on them. Also, the rear backup sensors aren't effected (that drives me insane). Arms were tig welded, center was mostly mig'd. Sand blasted and coated with Steel-It. Dad was really happy when he saw it this morning.

Arms look like they curve down in the pic, but they are straight across, about .750" off the back bumper.
Y3kOQqX.jpg

hNc9Qhv.jpg

Same width as tires, you don't see them in the mirrors.
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Nice job on the mud flaps/rock guards. I have to laugh at the way people mount them around here. They run oversize tires on their trucks then put the removable flaps on where the outside of the flap is barely even with the bedside, yet the tires stick out much further than the bedside.:headscrat I don't know what they think they are accomplishing by that but if it makes them feel better about having a guard on the back I guess that's what counts.:bounce:

Yours turned out nice and have some thought put into them. I'm running the Rock Tamer commercially sold ones on my truck when I haul a trailer (which isn't much these days) but like you I didn't like the way they wobbled back and forth so I welded jamb nuts to the underside so I can tighten a bolt at each corner and take the wobble out. Makes for a few minute longer installation but works well.
 

MrSurly

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2014
Messages
1,671
Location
East Texas
You guys do some pretty work!
I've taken on a project of my own making, electing to run 1" 083 wall 316 SS tubing in my shop for air line. It was cheap (Craigslist, natch) so it appealed to me. Of course it could only remain cheap if I could avoid buying a pile of stupid-expensive compression fittings.
I had recently acquired a fancy 3-N-1 welder so I decided to try TIG welding and set about (as my dad would say) "learning myself how".
Man, did I waste a lot of material(!) No worries, it worked out and I managed to do enough do-overs that I got a couple of welds to look OK.
I keep hoping to achieve the look of the youtube guys' pretty metal, but for now, these welds at least don't leak!
I just can’t get the pretty colors of get the consistently skinny beads.
In total I ran 160' of 1"
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Some came out stupid-fat
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a few ended up narrow
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mr_magicfingers

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
70
Location
Devon, UK
In your situation, you should replace the entire piece and brace the new one. I would look for someone in your area that might be able to help you out. The fact that this is a trailer, one that you tow on actual roads, makes me want to say you should learn on something else. Post some pictures of your practice welds and people will tell you what looks good and what doesn't.

Thank you, that's what I was thinking of doing, good to know it's the correct way.

After trying to find a welding course locally for the past couple of years and discovering there's nothing nearby, a college an hour away is starting an intro to welding evening class later this month so I'm going to sign up to that and put the trailer aside for a couple of months until I've got more experience and come back to it then.

I'll post the results when I come back to it.
 

tslater1989

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2015
Messages
54
Location
Michigan
Thank you, that's what I was thinking of doing, good to know it's the correct way.

After trying to find a welding course locally for the past couple of years and discovering there's nothing nearby, a college an hour away is starting an intro to welding evening class later this month so I'm going to sign up to that and put the trailer aside for a couple of months until I've got more experience and come back to it then.

I'll post the results when I come back to it.

I don't know if they do it anymore. But snap on and a few others offered a 1 time 50% off equipment for welders in school. Just FYI
 

cspcrx

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2014
Messages
608
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Coworker has a two sided list she uses daily for coding of expenses. She wanted to hang a string from the ceiling so she could just spin it to see the other side. I told her I would make something in her favorite color.

Used some thin angle metal, from another project, and welded two together to add strength. They fit perfectly in the slot of the divider. Then welded the flat bar to that along with a tab for the clamp. Cut a small piece of the flat bar and welded a bolt to it to clamp to the lip of the divider. Then an eye bolt, couple of washers and a lock nut to allow it to rotate smoothly.

She was very happy with it, nothing fancy compared to what you guys make but works. I am just getting started with metal fabrication and welding so I get excited when metal sticks and what I make works.

Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr
 
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Slednut

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
2,550
Location
Washington state
I needed to weld a new suspension cross member in the front of my project car (1970 Cyclone). The cross member was tig welded and I wanted it to match. I've only played around with tig for a few minutes, so my SIL came over and did it.
 

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