Show us your welding projects

[HotWire]

They look great and the end result is beautiful. Nicely done.

Woa, I need these.

I've been looking for cast table legs suitable for a 1/4 sawn oak kitchen table for a while and been striking out. I've thought about replicating the look with some laser cut shapes and flat stock, so this proves the concept.

This would look way better though.

Wow, that design is so pleasing and unique.
I would be proud in your shoes.
Well done Sir and thanks for sharing.

Royce

Well done on this, that is a very unique design and it looks great!

Thank you all for the kind words!

They were quite the challenge to get fully welded without pretzeling. One is definitely straighter than the other. Lots of learning on this one.

 

[RLaCasse1]

I took a welding class in high school and have only sporadically dabbled since then, tack welds mostly/basically. Decided it was time to start doing some self-learning, plus, I have a project coming up that I'll be doing on my own. The images below are my two first days back at it, one side per day.

First image is starting on the left and working towards the right about 2/3 of the way, then starting on the right and working back left 1/3.

Second image is starting on the right and then working all the way to the left. I was playing around with settings on the third stringer. To see how too much, or too little, feed or amps would affect it...

Tips?

 

[Jswain]

I took a welding class in high school and have only sporadically dabbled since then, tack welds mostly/basically. Decided it was time to start doing some self-learning, plus, I have a project coming up that I'll be doing on my own. The images below are my two first days back at it, one side per day.

First image is starting on the left and working towards the right about 2/3 of the way, then starting on the right and working back left 1/3.

Second image is starting on the right and then working all the way to the left. I was playing around with settings on the third stringer. To see how too much, or too little, feed or amps would affect it...

Tips?

Looks like you're ready to start building some ****, or stuff...whichever

 

[Wiz02]

I

I took a welding class in high school and have only sporadically dabbled since then, tack welds mostly/basically. Decided it was time to start doing some self-learning, plus, I have a project coming up that I'll be doing on my own. The images below are my two first days back at it, one side per day.

First image is starting on the left and working towards the right about 2/3 of the way, then starting on the right and working back left 1/3.

Second image is starting on the right and then working all the way to the left. I was playing around with settings on the third stringer. To see how too much, or too little, feed or amps would affect it...

Tips?

What does the back of the coupon look like? Check for weld penetration.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Latest bike

 

[HotWire]

Latest bike

That’s awesome! Love custom steel bikes!

 

[RLaCasse1]

I
What does the back of the coupon look like? Check for weld penetration.

The back is stringers now, I welded on both sides. Before I welded the second side, though, the back was showing discoloration, and the scale (believe that's the correct word) was burned/flaked off where the stringers were laid.

I'll keep practicing and show pictures of the backside next time as well.

 

[zmotorsports]

My latest welding project that I just completed.

A Radio Flyer wagon that I built for my grandson. I fabbed the chassis and components to resemble a '32 Roadster, complete with narrowed and pinched front frame horns and King Bee lights up front.






A **** ton of pictures from start to finish in my Shop Projects 2.0 thread in the Fabrication sub-forum.

 

[royce]

My latest welding project that I just completed.

A Radio Flyer wagon that I built for my grandson. I fabbed the chassis and components to resemble a '32 Roadster, complete with narrowed and pinched front frame horns and King Bee lights up front.






A **** ton of pictures from start to finish in my Shop Projects 2.0 thread in the Fabrication sub-forum.

Fine engineering and design
Well done Sir

 

[zmotorsports]

Fine engineering and design
Well done Sir

Thank you.

 

[RLaCasse1]

I
What does the back of the coupon look like? Check for weld penetration.

To answer what the back looks like... I started on the right and moved left on the bead side.
Pics in the following order: 1) Beads before cleaning, 2) Back before cleaning, 3) Beads after cleaning, 4) Back after cleaning.

Tips?

 

[XJSuperman]

Time to make an identical one now.

Oh, and cap the open tube.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Nice

 

[Garage Junkie]

Looks fantastic XJ!

One word of caution- I'm not sure what you are tying down, but your spare tire mount connection is far stronger than the stake pocket holding it to the trailer. If you are using that tie-down ring for something big like a vehicle, I would recommend strengthening the connection to the trailer and perhaps adding a bolt or a pin to ensure that doesn't pop out while going down the road.

 

[XJSuperman]

Looks fantastic XJ!

One word of caution- I'm not sure what you are tying down, but your spare tire mount connection is far stronger than the stake pocket holding it to the trailer. If you are using that tie-down ring for something big like a vehicle, I would recommend strengthening the connection to the trailer and perhaps adding a bolt or a pin to ensure that doesn't pop out while going down the road.

Thanks, there are more details in my thread on these. It will be bolted to sandwich the stake pocket. I am not concerned with the stake pocket being the weak point, but of common sense dictates using other points (all in the stake pockets) for heavy loads.

 

[kerrynzl]

Oh, and cap the open tube.

Use a plastic end cap,
I use them a lot [to make my homebuilt trailers look like a production model

Here is a winch mount I made with plastic end caps [top, bottom ,and front]
The mount was pre-drilled to run wiring internally [incl the voltmeter] ,and the end cap make this possible to drag the wires through.

 

[gearhead1]

Use a plastic end cap,
I use them a lot [to make my homebuilt trailers look like a production model

Here is a winch mount I made with plastic end caps [top, bottom ,and front]
The mount was pre-drilled to run wiring internally [incl the voltmeter] ,and the end cap make this possible to drag the wires through.

Nice work as usual, Kerry.

 

[kerrynzl]

Nice work as usual, Kerry.

Thanks for the compliment.

I should do a build thread on this trailer [I kept photographs of the build]

I've lost my motivation to build more , so I made this one special with A LOT of hidden features
[this one took 4-1/2 months to build whereas I could churn out 3 trailers in 2 months]

I'm surprised nobody has commented on the Tekonsha Brake controller mounted on the winch

 

[csp]

Sorry. Im struggling with the quote feature.

Click on the button that says Reply, with the left pointing arrow next to it.

 

[VR6ix]

I'm surprised nobody has commented on the Tekonsha Brake controller mounted on the winch

Sure... why are the 2 holes not used on the mount bracket?

It does not look like a production trailer, it looks a lot nicer... great work!! Mild steel and you get them galvanized?

 

[blue-5]

Thanks for the compliment.

I should do a build thread on this trailer [I kept photographs of the build]

I've lost my motivation to build more , so I made this one special with A LOT of hidden features
[this one took 4-1/2 months to build whereas I could churn out 3 trailers in 2 months]

I'm surprised nobody has commented on the Tekonsha Brake controller mounted on the winch

Why is there a brake change controller mounted there?

 

[gearhead1]

I figure it doesn’t matter what vehicle it gets connected to that way. The water would get to it where I live.

They drive on the wrong side of the road too! Ha! Just kidding Kerry. I would love to visit NZ some time.

 

[kerrynzl]

Sure... why are the 2 holes not used on the mount bracket?

It does not look like a production trailer, it looks a lot nicer... great work!! Mild steel and you get them galvanized?

I also have another brake controller that has different mounting brackets. I normally pay about $5-$10 for them from our local "U-Pull" [most junkyard scavengers don't know what they are]
I used Duragalv steel that is electro-galvanized . This steel is galv'd inside and out so it doesn't rust. I simply use a flap wheel to sand of a bit of Galv for the welds, then touch it up with an Aerosol can of CRC Zinc paint [one can does the whole trailer]
Duragalv steel only adds about $80 to the whole trailer vs painting at approx $150 just for materials

The deck is Aluminium glued to the steel, I've had hop dip galvanized steel delaminate with the deck whereas duragalv doesn't

finished product [it is designed for long ramps so I can drive my race car on with the front spoiler still attached]


being built

Why is there a brake change controller mounted there?

Sometimes I will get another [person] vehicle to tow my trailer home from the track that doesn't have a brake controller.
Normally I use an in-car controller and dont fit this.

The controller is "T"d into the Brake, Stoplight, and Ground circuits of the trailer harness. For the 12v source I ran a wire from the winch battery to a relay then the brake controller [the relay is activated via the taillights being switched on]

Outside of the USA our cars have separate Amber turn signals [not blinking stoplights] so this is possible without turn signals pulsing the brakes

I figure it doesn’t matter what vehicle it gets connected to that way. The water would get to it where I live.

They drive on the wrong side of the road too! Ha! Just kidding Kerry. I would love to visit NZ some time.

@gearhead1
You should visit our part of the world [I'll throw out the "welcome mat" for you]. Be warned ............ Once you start travelling in your later years [like me] It is very difficult to stop. I am quite willing to sell all my toys to keep travelling ,but so far I don't need to!


We have these Waterproof Trailer Mount controllers available that are powered by the cars stoplights.
But they are only good for 2 wheel brakes or it will blow fuses in the tow vehicle.
On the above set-up I have a clear plastic "tupperware lunch box" that I drilled holes in and mounted upside down to keep the rain out [I haven't tested this yet]

I prefer a hardwired in-car mounted controller [the spare is only used for tow vehicle swaps]

Here mounted on the tongue [it has to be inline to the direction of travel]

 

[Bob Heine]

Once you start travelling in your later years [like me] It is very difficult to stop.

Kerry, when the travel bug bites you when you're ten [like me] you don't spend as much money on 'stuff' when you grow up. On the bright side, you learn to repair things so you have a bit of money to spend on trips. Only spent a few weeks in New Zealand when we lived in Australia. It was terrible. By the second day I couldn't find a reason to leave and have regretted doing so ever since.

 

[Jehannum]

Made these four shelf standards to replace a hodge-podge of other shelving furniture (a 1 sheet bookshelf I built years ago, some college-special wall-mounted shelves, and a crappy particle board big-box store shelving unit sort of vaguely held together with allthread and hope).



They're 1x2 square tube, holding some 1'x12' shelves. I put some cable across the back from corner to corner to keep the racking to a minimum, and two of the shelves are bolted in to hold the width correct, and each standard has 2 feet to adjust fore and aft level with respect to the wall.

 

[sqznby]

Made these to make these

 

[PugetDude]

Seat supports for the '32 Roadster.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Made these to make these

Assuming those tubes are hollow with caps welded on the end, how did you keep them from kinking when you twisted them?

 

[iagsxr]

Made these four shelf standards to replace a hodge-podge of other shelving furniture (a 1 sheet bookshelf I built years ago, some college-special wall-mounted shelves, and a crappy particle board big-box store shelving unit sort of vaguely held together with allthread and hope).



They're 1x2 square tube, holding some 1'x12' shelves. I put some cable across the back from corner to corner to keep the racking to a minimum, and two of the shelves are bolted in to hold the width correct.

I love that, need something similar in my office.

What did you use where they touch the floor?

 

[Jehannum]

I love that, need something similar in my office.

What did you use where they touch the floor?

I bought some adjustable feet and put felt pads on 'em.

I think they were 1/4-20 thread, but I got them off the shelf at Lowe's and sunk some nutserts into the bottom chord of the shelf standard.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Assuming those tubes are hollow with caps welded on the end, how did you keep them from kinking when you twisted them?

Betcha that's solid square stock. The profile doesn't look like tube.

 

[sqznby]

Assuming those tubes are hollow with caps welded on the end, how did you keep them from kinking when you twisted them?

I have a few pieces of square/rectangular tubing and some angle that I use for fixturing. I'll bolt a piece down to line them up then two clamps on each end to hold them in place and one clamp holding them to the tubing.
I have also just clamped them down and ran with it with some luck as well.

 

[sqznby]

Betcha that's solid square stock. The profile doesn't look like tube.

It's all made from 1/4" wall square tubing. The DOM is 1/8"/.125 thickness.
2", 1.5" square and 1.5" DOM tubing and I forget the sockets used but they are 1/2" drive socket and extension that fit exactly for half inch pickets

 

[Old Man Roger]

I have a few pieces of square/rectangular tubing and some angle that I use for fixturing. I'll bolt a piece down to line them up then two clamps on each end to hold them in place and one clamp holding them to the tubing.
I have also just clamped them down and ran with it with some luck as well.

So you were twisting them cold?

 

[sqznby]

So you were twisting them cold?

Yes, all cold twisted.

 

[zmotorsports]

I also have another brake controller that has different mounting brackets. I normally pay about $5-$10 for them from our local "U-Pull" [most junkyard scavengers don't know what they are]
I used Duragalv steel that is electro-galvanized . This steel is galv'd inside and out so it doesn't rust. I simply use a flap wheel to sand of a bit of Galv for the welds, then touch it up with an Aerosol can of CRC Zinc paint [one can does the whole trailer]
Duragalv steel only adds about $80 to the whole trailer vs painting at approx $150 just for materials

The deck is Aluminium glued to the steel, I've had hop dip galvanized steel delaminate with the deck whereas duragalv doesn't

finished product [it is designed for long ramps so I can drive my race car on with the front spoiler still attached]

Awesome trailer build Kerry. Looks amazing.

Made these to make these

Beautiful looking welds.

 

[sqznby]

Awesome trailer build Kerry. Looks amazing.




Beautiful looking welds.

Thank You, I appreciate that

 

[Old Man Roger]

Yes, all cold twisted.

I could see that helping with the kinking. Other wise you would have to heat as you go. Heat a section, twist a little, heat a section twist a little. With solid you can pretty much heat the whole thing at once, not with hollow though.

 

[kaymccampbell]

It's all made from 1/4" wall square tubing. The DOM is 1/8"/.125 thickness.
2", 1.5" square and 1.5" DOM tubing and I forget the sockets used but they are 1/2" drive socket and extension that fit exactly for half inch pickets

The pockets are what? Solid? Hollow?

 

[sqznby]

In a previous shop we twisted all pickets cold but had a very nice machine to do it. It was smooth and consistent. I use my connecting bar to twist mine and it works really well.
The only time we used heat was to make lambs tongues or scrolls. And we/I never make any rails with hollow pickets. That's typically a large box store product haha.