Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
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Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
z-edition 006
Well-known member
Reminds me of Jimbo Philips
It sure looks like it.
sqznby
Well-known member
Bodj Built
Well-known member
Where did you get your magnet/how is it held on? Epoxy?
Duker
Well-known member
Finished the workbench frame and got it painted:
Congrats on the frame.... however, I think you need to back up and snap a pic and tell us more about that container cover setup you have! [emoji106]
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z-edition 006
Well-known member
I got the magnet from a store in Norway. I just grinded of the head of a bolt, and weld it on. Under the manet i use a washer and a lock nut.
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xman_charl
Well-known member
torch holder
hf magnet, bed frame, 3 inch steel pipe
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Charl
hf magnet, bed frame, 3 inch steel pipe
Charl
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Subscribed for more ideas!
Just a little Miller 175 that I want to upgrade to a 211 Autoset one day, OA then TiG/stick machine first!
Just a little Miller 175 that I want to upgrade to a 211 Autoset one day, OA then TiG/stick machine first!
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jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Perrorojo
Well-known member
That's really cool. My mag drill gets used once a year but I'll never sell it. Once you've used one you understand why they're pricey.
What a great way to extend the usefulness of a mag drill!
Whipped up a truss the support the output box on a zf5 transmission. They tend to crack here under hi-torque applications especially with a heavy transfer case hanging of of them. 
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1953mercury
Well-known member
Pretty clever idea, and nice simple execution. Can think of quite a few similar applications where that concept could be applied. Mike
That's a great idea bud. If I ever get off my *** and buy one, I'm going to have to copy that.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Thanks man. I looked for the actual drill for a year. Picked this one up for $475 shipped. Was prior gov't property, looks like it was only used once or twice.
I like the work...been thinking about something similar for my stuff...
...but anyone with a sawzall can go through the wood wall in seconds...
Maybe consider some steal there too...couple of rails or something.
I never once thought hanging a mirror would have me sharing it in the welding section. But since this one was a bit out of the ordinary figure it might help someone out in the future.
I recently remodeled one of the bathrooms. From minute one the wife wanted a full width mirror which is what I had planned on when doing the backing work in the framing. So everything is 100% done and she decides to do a completely different style. Problem was this 70lb solid steel bar frame only had one hanger which just so happened to go right dead center of the vertical dryer duct within the wall. The next minor issue is the framing isn't symmetrical to the area. So doing two ears and hitting the studs just right and not looking funny was out of the ballpark for me.
My solution was to do modified version of a French cleat that would allow me to get the mirror as close to flush with the wall as possible and still allow side to side movement for alignment to the vanity. Initially I figured I'd remove the backing plate and mirror and drill/tap some kind of mount. But found out everything must be siliconed together as it would not release from the frame.
So I grabbed a scrap piece of 1" x 1/8" bar, marked my diagonals, bent them to a tight 90 and then cut them to just a tick over 1/8" of standoff. Fired up the tig (which I still **** at) and welded it to the frame. Knowing it'd screw the pooch on the finish open up my jar of heat sink only to find it all dried out....bummer.
I then grabbed a couple pieces of 3" x 1/8" aluminum bar to make the wall bracket out of. These were tacked together just to keep everything perfectly aligned but since the mounting screws go thru both pieces there isn't any concern about my ****** welds letting loose.
I recently remodeled one of the bathrooms. From minute one the wife wanted a full width mirror which is what I had planned on when doing the backing work in the framing. So everything is 100% done and she decides to do a completely different style. Problem was this 70lb solid steel bar frame only had one hanger which just so happened to go right dead center of the vertical dryer duct within the wall. The next minor issue is the framing isn't symmetrical to the area. So doing two ears and hitting the studs just right and not looking funny was out of the ballpark for me.
My solution was to do modified version of a French cleat that would allow me to get the mirror as close to flush with the wall as possible and still allow side to side movement for alignment to the vanity. Initially I figured I'd remove the backing plate and mirror and drill/tap some kind of mount. But found out everything must be siliconed together as it would not release from the frame.
So I grabbed a scrap piece of 1" x 1/8" bar, marked my diagonals, bent them to a tight 90 and then cut them to just a tick over 1/8" of standoff. Fired up the tig (which I still **** at) and welded it to the frame. Knowing it'd screw the pooch on the finish open up my jar of heat sink only to find it all dried out....bummer.
I then grabbed a couple pieces of 3" x 1/8" aluminum bar to make the wall bracket out of. These were tacked together just to keep everything perfectly aligned but since the mounting screws go thru both pieces there isn't any concern about my ****** welds letting loose.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nice mounting solution on the mirror Cam. It's about time you put some of those skills to use.
Very nice mounting solution on the mirror Cam. It's about time you put some of those skills to use.
Haha, ya.
Loved the wife's comment. Why'd it take 2hrs to hang the mirror?
bob_s2
Well-known member
fordkit88 please post more photos of your welding table project! I bought a large square-tube landing gear for a heavy trailer to use to adjust the table, but am unsure I want to continue in that direction. It's got a lot more loose twist motion than I wanted. So I'm interested in what you're coming up with.
--Bob
--Bob
Tunajoe
Well-known member
Me too!
Everything you could want to know about the container barn is here!
The Jungle
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404733
Finished the second workbench frame, and also finished the first of many hanging shelving frames:
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 918
I often throw a piece of thin plywood on top of my rolling welding table/cart when I'm working on other stuff, particularly if I'm working with glue, paint, or oils. I like the feet on your cart, I may have to add something like that to mine. Do you find yourself using the solid feet often? or just letting it rest on the wheels? I've never had a problem with mine rolling around, but my floor is pretty flat.
Moving along with the shelving hangars, mass production here! I still need another 8 hangars but I’m out of the free/cheap 1x1 so I actually need to go buy some.... bummer.
They are turning out okay though!
All welded up on the insides. Welding the outsides as I pull them off:
Because I normally wear T-shirt’s, these welding sleeves are awesome. Much needed too:
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They are turning out okay though!
All welded up on the insides. Welding the outsides as I pull them off:
Because I normally wear T-shirt’s, these welding sleeves are awesome. Much needed too:
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Krang nice work
Im sorry guys,but i just saw your posts. Its going to a couple more days before i can get you anything. My wife gave birth to our first last night so things have been hectic. First chance i get i will post a ton of pictures of whats been done, whats going to have and any issues that arose so far.
xs650shawn
Well-known member
Threw this together for an old Matco top chest that I can't find a matching base for. Sort of like a tool cart. My welding is a bit rusty, and I think my machine could use a new liner. Either way, I have never been a cosmetic welder, but rarely do they ever break. Still need to paint it.
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danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 918
a good rule, If it don't break, it's perfect. 
mr_magicfingers
Well-known member
After 10 evenings of my welding class, I'm at least sticking metal together and it's not breaking. I decided to work on a project to see if I could make neat welds on thinner metal. At the same time, I wanted to make a birthday present for a friend who was turning 40 and who's a very keen table top game player. I'd seen a youtube welding project making a dice and thought that would make a suitable gift while being a useful project to build my skills.
The first one wasn't very neat but the second came out pretty nicely. The dice is built up from 5cm squares of 3mm steel. I used a flap wheel to go over the edges and smooth the welds then a random orbit sander in grades 80-250 and finally a run over with some scotchbrite. It has a nice satin texture.
It's not balanced or even perfectly square but I'm pleased with it and I'm looking forward to giving it to my friend for his birthday. I'm trying to decide if i should laquer it to prevent rust but don't want to change the lovely satin feel of it. It's not going to spend time outside so I'm thinking just a bit of paste wax should do the job.
The first one wasn't very neat but the second came out pretty nicely. The dice is built up from 5cm squares of 3mm steel. I used a flap wheel to go over the edges and smooth the welds then a random orbit sander in grades 80-250 and finally a run over with some scotchbrite. It has a nice satin texture.
It's not balanced or even perfectly square but I'm pleased with it and I'm looking forward to giving it to my friend for his birthday. I'm trying to decide if i should laquer it to prevent rust but don't want to change the lovely satin feel of it. It's not going to spend time outside so I'm thinking just a bit of paste wax should do the job.
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The first two images are with the top mocked up. Im using mixture of 1/4" x 4" and 1/4" x 6" because its what i had and what the scrap yard had.
The silver plate with a gear on it is actually my old garage door motor. The control board took a **** so i replace everything and hard wired the motor. Its already a really good torque multiplication with a worm drive gear. Then i did another 1 to 1.5 multiplication with chain gears.
Old ball hitch mount that will be used to add or remove a large bench vice.
The main frames are from 2.5" square tubing and 2" square tubing i also got from the scrapyard. I played around with tig welding 1/8" flat bar to the 2" tubing to make a snugger fit but that was too tight. So i went with what i had and im going to weld 2 nuts on each leg so it can be snugged down when the position is set.
All of the top welds need to ground down so the plates can be drilled and the frame tapped for each plate.
I made my own c channel out of 1/4" plate and thats what each jack mounts to. I used #40 chain and 12 tooth gears with mostly v series hubs. I cleaned out my local fleet farm and had to use a few w series hubs that i machined down. There was some trial and error but i got it working.
I also plan to install grease zerks on each leg and just pack the living **** out of them.
I also plan to have a 2×3' or 3x3' pull out plasma cutting table and a small tool box mounted to one side. This is the last table i want to build for quite some time so im going to go all out. Ill will put up more pics as i go, but my little guy is taking some priority.
The silver plate with a gear on it is actually my old garage door motor. The control board took a **** so i replace everything and hard wired the motor. Its already a really good torque multiplication with a worm drive gear. Then i did another 1 to 1.5 multiplication with chain gears.
Old ball hitch mount that will be used to add or remove a large bench vice.
The main frames are from 2.5" square tubing and 2" square tubing i also got from the scrapyard. I played around with tig welding 1/8" flat bar to the 2" tubing to make a snugger fit but that was too tight. So i went with what i had and im going to weld 2 nuts on each leg so it can be snugged down when the position is set.
All of the top welds need to ground down so the plates can be drilled and the frame tapped for each plate.
I made my own c channel out of 1/4" plate and thats what each jack mounts to. I used #40 chain and 12 tooth gears with mostly v series hubs. I cleaned out my local fleet farm and had to use a few w series hubs that i machined down. There was some trial and error but i got it working.
I also plan to install grease zerks on each leg and just pack the living **** out of them.
I also plan to have a 2×3' or 3x3' pull out plasma cutting table and a small tool box mounted to one side. This is the last table i want to build for quite some time so im going to go all out. Ill will put up more pics as i go, but my little guy is taking some priority.
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mineallmine
Well-known member
I finally got a chance to do some more work on the rotisserie. I made and installed my arbor locks. Came out pretty good. Got some color on the mounting arms too. Next is to disassemble and start to paint the entire assembly grey then reassemble and put to use.
