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Duker

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
10,861
Location
Livingston, TX
Been working away on my Jeremy Schmidt-designed 2x72 belt grinder. I started TIG welding about one year ago and this is my third 'major' project. This grinder is made with some pretty thick material - lots of 3/8 thick and 1/4" thick steel. This pushed my abilities, but I managed to turn out a good working grinder in the end. Lots of V-notching and multi-pass welds. I learned a lot about having robust fixturing to prevent warping. More than a few parts were re-done, but I'm happy now. The tool rest is square to the platen, the belt tracks straight, the machine doesn't wobble when sitting on a flat surface, and everything works smoothly.

The first three photos are before I was finished. The last photo shows it finished with new legs made to index to my welding table. I'm now working on a tilting table and a contact wheel attachment.

I was hoping to paint this a hammered machine green, but I can't find hammered paint anywhere in Canada except Rustoleum black/silver/bronze.

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That does look beefy! I will have to check out that style. I am almost done making Brian House's (housemade.us) version of a 2x72 grinder.
 
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sanddan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
I made this scrap metal storage rack out of metal I had on hand. Trying to organize my shop and I noticed I had stuff scattered around making a mess. It also has room for some sheet stock if it’s not too big. Foot print is 2’ wide and 3’ deep using mostly 1.5” sq tubing. Even the casters were ones I had in a drawer for several years. I did have to buy the 1/4” round bar so this one cost about $19 total.
 

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zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,348
Location
Northern Utah
I made this scrap metal storage rack out of metal I had on hand. Trying to organize my shop and I noticed I had stuff scattered around making a mess. It also has room for some sheet stock if it’s not too big. Foot print is 2’ wide and 3’ deep using mostly 1.5” sq tubing. Even the casters were ones I had in a drawer for several years. I did have to buy the 1/4” round bar so this one cost about $19 total.

That looks awesome Dan.
 

PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,348
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I made this scrap metal storage rack out of metal I had on hand. Trying to organize my shop and I noticed I had stuff scattered around making a mess. It also has room for some sheet stock if it’s not too big. Foot print is 2’ wide and 3’ deep using mostly 1.5” sq tubing. Even the casters were ones I had in a drawer for several years. I did have to buy the 1/4” round bar so this one cost about $19 total.
Totally and shamelessly plagarizing this.
 

Shop-hound

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
183
Location
Calgary, AB
Been working away on my Jeremy Schmidt-designed 2x72 belt grinder. I started TIG welding about one year ago and this is my third 'major' project. This grinder is made with some pretty thick material - lots of 3/8 thick and 1/4" thick steel. This pushed my abilities, but I managed to turn out a good working grinder in the end. Lots of V-notching and multi-pass welds. I learned a lot about having robust fixturing to prevent warping. More than a few parts were re-done, but I'm happy now. The tool rest is square to the platen, the belt tracks straight, the machine doesn't wobble when sitting on a flat surface, and everything works smoothly.

The first three photos are before I was finished. The last photo shows it finished with new legs made to index to my welding table. I'm now working on a tilting table and a contact wheel attachment.

I was hoping to paint this a hammered machine green, but I can't find hammered paint anywhere in Canada except Rustoleum black/silver/bronze.

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Looks great! Gotta love how heat and weld cooling can twist up a part. Good on you for reworking until you’re happy (I’m the same way). I’m planning to fab up something similar but with a 4” wide belt. Did you buy the plans online?
 

old_smokey

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2018
Messages
410
Location
Manitoba
Looks great! Gotta love how heat and weld cooling can twist up a part. Good on you for reworking until you’re happy (I’m the same way). I’m planning to fab up something similar but with a 4” wide belt. Did you buy the plans online?
I did, yes. They were pretty cheap I recall. If you search Jeremy Schmidt, it's easy to find. I think he sells them on Etsy actually, as well as his website directly or something. The plans are pretty obviously made to facilitate easy construction without specialty tools or processes. As a result, there are a few things that could be done "better", but aren't needed for the grinder to work well.

One example - the pulleys spin on 1/2 bolts. The bolts simply slide through a 1/2 hole in the steel, meaning they have a lot of play/wobble. In order to eliminate this, you have to tighten up the nut, squishing the pulley and pulling the bolt to 90-degrees with the brackets. Problem is, the pulleys don't have any kind of spacer between the bearings (mine didn't anyway), so you put way to much preload on the inner races. I'm making some spacers to fit between the bearings on a lathe, exactly how a motorcycle front wheel works. That will let me crank that bolt tight, keep the pulleys rigid and oriented correctly, while also spinning freely. You could also just weld the bolt in place, as long as it didn't warp/pull when cooling.

Anyway, things like that. Overall the plans are great, very well written and illustrated, easy to follow, and worth the $30 or whatever they cost.
 

ravikumar

New member
Joined
Feb 5, 2022
Messages
1
My first one was a welding table. Well, sort of. I took a bunch of round scrap disks and layed them on the concrete garage and used my brand new harbor freight 90 amp mig (lol) to stick them together. It still holds up today but I've redone all the welds with 7018 because I've overloaded it a few times since then
2011-10-15153046.jpg


2011-10-17180119.jpg
 

Micscience

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
140
I haven't been here for awhile but I'll join the party. Just two wheelie trainer machines I have built. The white and black one is the 2.0 version.
 

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Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,460
Location
Palm Coast Florida
I haven't been here for awhile but I'll join the party. Just two wheelie trainer machines I have built. The white and black one is the 2.0 version.
A 4 Wheeler is a good wheelie trainer. You only have to worry about going too far back, and you don't have to worry about side to side. That, and most are 4 strokes with a good amount of engine brake. It's good to have a good amount of engine brake till someone gets used to using the rear brake.
 

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
22,475
Location
VT
^^^do yourself a favor and chamfer or radius those edges a bit.

Best wax iron I had was an old B&D with a cloth power cord and black bakelite handle. Thing was heavy and had super even heat. Dropped it one day and the handle exploded.
 
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VR6ix

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
355
Location
Onterrible, Canuckistan
I didn't show that part but I did a quick job with the disc sander to make the base flat and radius the edges. This is temporary... real ski wax irons start at like $80CAD and quickly hit $250-$350 for digital ones up here in Canada land. The skin I added was only 2mm thick (.100"). Think I'll keep using it this season and re-assess for next season.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy :beer: Keep yer stick on the ice :drink:
 

Matt018888

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
283
Location
Shelby TWP Michigan
Here's a welding cart I made this summer. Current stuff I have made is not really that cool, like... Floating shelf brackets, repaired our work trailer and a hoist for our scaffolding. But the carts the coolest thing I built recently. As a tall guy I don't like bending over so I cut the running gear off the 251 and through it above the trusty thunderbolt!
 

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jalexl

Active member
Joined
Mar 2, 2014
Messages
27
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Been working away on my Jeremy Schmidt-designed 2x72 belt grinder. I started TIG welding about one year ago and this is my third 'major' project. This grinder is made with some pretty thick material - lots of 3/8 thick and 1/4" thick steel. This pushed my abilities, but I managed to turn out a good working grinder in the end. Lots of V-notching and multi-pass welds. I learned a lot about having robust fixturing to prevent warping. More than a few parts were re-done, but I'm happy now. The tool rest is square to the platen, the belt tracks straight, the machine doesn't wobble when sitting on a flat surface, and everything works smoothly.

The first three photos are before I was finished. The last photo shows it finished with new legs made to index to my welding table. I'm now working on a tilting table and a contact wheel attachment.

I was hoping to paint this a hammered machine green, but I can't find hammered paint anywhere in Canada except Rustoleum black/silver/bronze.

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Old Smokey,

How much would you say the whole project cost you? from plans to all the parts and material....

I have been wanting a 2x72 for a long time.

thanks
 

Tinker2

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Pacific NW
I just finished up my planishing hammer project. Made from 2 in. x 2 in. square, & 2 in. x 3 in. rectangular steel tube. It uses a 4X rivet gun. The retractable 'outrigger' gear is necessary because I am very limited on space and retracting/folding in the legs allows me to slide it into about a 10 in. wide space between the lathe and welding cart. 1/2 in. thick nylon pads on the bottom of the frame eases pushing and pulling into & out of its stored position.
Some photos-

IMG_3979 small.jpg IMG_3995 small.jpg IMG_3999 small.jpg IMG_4038 small.jpg
 
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stinkity stoink

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
731
Location
New Jersey
I just finished up my planishing hammer project. Made from 2 in. x2 in. square, & 2 in. x3 in. rectangular steel tube. It uses a 4X rivet gun. The retractable 'outrigger' gear is necessary because I am very limited on space and retracting/folding in the legs allows me to slide it into about a 10 in. wide space between the lathe and welding cart. 1/2 in. thick nylon pads on the bottom of the frame eases pushing and pulling into & out of its stored position.
Some photos-

IMG_3979 small.jpg IMG_3995 small.jpg IMG_3999 small.jpg IMG_4038 small.jpg
Nicely done !! What lower dies are you using ? How well does it work ?
 

sanddan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
Totally and shamelessly plagarizing this.
No problem, I found the basic design off the interweb years ago. I saved the picture for the time I finally got around to building mine. I did add space on the end for sheet stock and casters.
 

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Tinker2

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Pacific NW
Nicely done !! What lower dies are you using ? How well does it work ?

I haven't had a lot of time on it yet, but it seems to move metal the way I expect it to. I bought this lower die set from Desert Hybrids .

2008_0704pl_hammer_dies10001.jpg
Includes 0.75" R, 0.875" R, 1.1" R, 1.5" R, 1.875" R, 4.0" R, 5.0" R, 6.0" R, 6.0" R, 8.0" R,
14.5" R, 24.0" R, 36.0" R . Heat treated Alloy Steel.
 
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STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
Just finished building the https://housemade.us/ 2x72 Belt grinder, combined a few parts and did some skew tracking. Fun project and now I want to build a Jer Schmidt version. I think I just like building stuff lol. Working on a stand next and just picked up a Jet 7x12 bandsaw to make these projects easier.
 

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STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
I really like this build, I bought the plans first before I got the Revolution kit. I really like being able to go horizontal and not having to change the work rest.
Been working away on my Jeremy Schmidt-designed 2x72 belt grinder. I started TIG welding about one year ago and this is my third 'major' project. This grinder is made with some pretty thick material - lots of 3/8 thick and 1/4" thick steel. This pushed my abilities, but I managed to turn out a good working grinder in the end. Lots of V-notching and multi-pass welds. I learned a lot about having robust fixturing to prevent warping. More than a few parts were re-done, but I'm happy now. The tool rest is square to the platen, the belt tracks straight, the machine doesn't wobble when sitting on a flat surface, and everything works smoothly.

The first three photos are before I was finished. The last photo shows it finished with new legs made to index to my welding table. I'm now working on a tilting table and a contact wheel attachment.

I was hoping to paint this a hammered machine green, but I can't find hammered paint anywhere in Canada except Rustoleum black/silver/bronze.

IMG_7750.jpg
IMG_7744.jpg
IMG_7833.jpg
IMG_7835.jpg
I really like this build, I bought the plans first before I got the Revolution kit. I really like being able to go horizontal and not having to change the work rest. Nice table to!
 

STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
Have you seen the ameribrade unit? Is there a reason you chose that one?
Yeah they are super nice, I just wanted to build something it was more of project than a knife making tool. The others were kind of expensive. I splurged a little on some of the parts for this one but that was my own doing.
 

STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
Been Busy in the shop working on tools. Took some leads from here and built a box type stand for my tube bender. Just need to finish up a few details and paint/plumbing. Not sure if the height is too tall or not but I think I could lower it a few inches if so. The tool box holds dies and the tubing notcher.
 

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STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
On the final leg of the 2x72 grinder stand with wheels showing up, and hardware coming later this week. Cutting the 1/4" plate aluminum top is going to be fun. That Eastwood surfacing tool is amazing and should make for a nice final product.
 

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Bodj Built

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Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Messages
1,165
Location
Moorpark, CA
On the final leg of the 2x72 grinder stand with wheels showing up, and hardware coming later this week. Cutting the 1/4" plate aluminum top is going to be fun. That Eastwood surfacing tool is amazing and should make for a nice final product.

How long do the surfacing abrasives last? I have a surfacing tool but have yet to use it due to the price of the consumables
 

BukitCase

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Messages
1,075
Location
Oregon
"didn't have any wheels" -

STI, no loss on the wheels - the stock ones are too small, saw sits too low and NOT steerable without picking up one end and "re-aiming" it - my older version of the Jet was same way, here's my (kinda quick and dirty) version... Steve
 

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STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
How long do the surfacing abrasives last? I have a surfacing tool but have yet to use it due to the price of the consumables
SO far so good, I haven't went crazy with it so I'm not sure. I mostly prep steel with the brown cookie wheel on my angle grinder first to take off all the big stuff im only using the Eastwood for the final finishing pass, so it should last a good while.
 

STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
SO far so good, I haven't went crazy with it so I'm not sure. I mostly prep steel with the brown cookie wheel on my angle grinder first to take off all the big stuff im only using the Eastwood for the final finishing pass, so it should last a good while.
 

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sanddan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
"didn't have any wheels" -

STI, no loss on the wheels - the stock ones are too small, saw sits too low and NOT steerable without picking up one end and "re-aiming" it - my older version of the Jet was same way, here's my (kinda quick and dirty) version... Steve
I have this same saw and this would be a huge improvement. I seldom move the saw but the extra height and ability to move it for cleaning would be great. I will be copying this very soon.
what size tires did you use? And where did you get them?

Have you had any issues with the coolant pump freezing up. When mine sits for awhile I have to pull the pump and physically twist the impeller you get it to run.
 

BukitCase

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Messages
1,075
Location
Oregon
Dan, pretty sure these were the tires I used (flat free with ANYTHING I build that'll see metalworking areas)


They're 13", IIRC the front casters are 4" - they're double locking, HIGHLY recommended when you ALREADY have enough things irritating you :( - I get 'em from Woodcraft. They put 'em on sale about once a year, so I try to replenish my stock then.

Only ones I use any more are 4" and 5" plate type, altho I've replaced a few of the crappy OEM stem casters with the woodcraft ones too - I have one of those wire rack shelves with milling attachments stored on it, the original gray casters (3/8-16 stem threads) got flat spots (about 600 lbs on the rack) but the woodriver ones have been on it for about 5 years and still no flat spots...


On the rear wheels, I originally just used bolts for individual axles but found that the angle tended to flex with the weight - so I replaced it with 5/8" allthread (see previous pic) -

If you wanted a bit more height, you could go with the 5" casters


(the ones I linked are only a buck more each for 5") - then the rear axle could be under-slung - this would keep it level and about an inch heigher than mine. If I were to do that I'd use 2 coupler nuts (1 under each side of the frame) - I'd screw the nuts onto the allthread FIRST, get everything lined up BEFORE welding the coupler nuts to the angle with 4 fairly heavy tacks per nut - OR, you could weld the nuts FIRST so you could learn the HARD way like I did a long time ago :rolleyes:

Notice that where the original axles went there are 5/8" nuts welded to the new frame - I screwed short 5/8 bolts in those to retain the saw in the frame. Downside - this made the rear wheels drag, that's why all the washers/nuts, etc, something to be aware of if you copy THAT part...

Coolant - I've never used it, probably never will. Besides the Jet, I have 2 of the little 4x6's, the old one came from Camarillo Ca. when that was HF's ONLY store - it still runs fine and cuts straighter than the one I bought about 8 years ago (more cast iron, less pot metal)

I found a few more pics of the base project, might give you more ideas... Steve

(#13 is how NOT to do it :=)
 

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sanddan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
Dan, pretty sure these were the tires I used (flat free with ANYTHING I build that'll see metalworking areas)


They're 13", IIRC the front casters are 4" - they're double locking, HIGHLY recommended when you ALREADY have enough things irritating you :( - I get 'em from Woodcraft. They put 'em on sale about once a year, so I try to replenish my stock then.

Only ones I use any more are 4" and 5" plate type, altho I've replaced a few of the crappy OEM stem casters with the woodcraft ones too - I have one of those wire rack shelves with milling attachments stored on it, the original gray casters (3/8-16 stem threads) got flat spots (about 600 lbs on the rack) but the woodriver ones have been on it for about 5 years and still no flat spots...


On the rear wheels, I originally just used bolts for individual axles but found that the angle tended to flex with the weight - so I replaced it with 5/8" allthread (see previous pic) -

If you wanted a bit more height, you could go with the 5" casters


(the ones I linked are only a buck more each for 5") - then the rear axle could be under-slung - this would keep it level and about an inch heigher than mine. If I were to do that I'd use 2 coupler nuts (1 under each side of the frame) - I'd screw the nuts onto the allthread FIRST, get everything lined up BEFORE welding the coupler nuts to the angle with 4 fairly heavy tacks per nut - OR, you could weld the nuts FIRST so you could learn the HARD way like I did a long time ago :rolleyes:

Notice that where the original axles went there are 5/8" nuts welded to the new frame - I screwed short 5/8 bolts in those to retain the saw in the frame. Downside - this made the rear wheels drag, that's why all the washers/nuts, etc, something to be aware of if you copy THAT part...

Coolant - I've never used it, probably never will. Besides the Jet, I have 2 of the little 4x6's, the old one came from Camarillo Ca. when that was HF's ONLY store - it still runs fine and cuts straighter than the one I bought about 8 years ago (more cast iron, less pot metal)

I found a few more pics of the base project, might give you more ideas... Steve

(#13 is how NOT to do it :=)
Thanks for the extra info.
 

Baldewin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2013
Messages
504
I recently redid my pool equipment and need a couple of pipe supports. Just finished the supports this evening, hopefully get the pipes off the temp support (Homer bucket) this weekend and on to these.
 

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niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,123
Location
Josephine, TX
I forgot this post existed. Here's my most recent welding project. I made a wood-wrapped steel frame stand for a new aquarium I was setting up. I used through bolts into threaded inserts in the wood to hold the wood to the frame.
 

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niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,123
Location
Josephine, TX
Here's another project I finished.

I upgraded the wheels on our collapsible trailer. The rotation is done by a bolt through a captive bearing in the steel block. This probably would have been better made out of aluminum, but I only have a mig welder (for now).
 

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