Show us your welding projects

[Jehannum]

Loose clothing is not the best when using a lathe. Just sayin.

I'm with you. The sweatshirt came off shortly after. I didn't want to interrupt concentration.

 

[C91x]

Used both 1/16 and 3/32 on this project. But you can see that the HAZ was pretty consistent throughout regardless.

I love those MGB GT's. I sat in one and realized I was a bit too tall/big to ever build one but still really like the lines on that car.

 

[Farmall450]

Finished up pinewood derby trophies. Still need to brush some of the welds that I overcooked then clear coat them all.

They'll never forget that prize!

 

[silentpoet]

Stick welded tonight for the first time in a few months. I know the bead is ugly. But considering this is only the second time I have even tried this challenge I am ok with it for now. It is a nice solid joint. I think when I learned to tig this it took a lot longer to get it right.

Done with a 1/16th 6013 from Harbor Freight. 15 amps from a Vulcan Pro-Tig 205. It felt kind of cold and laid down kind of awkward. But the joint is pretty solid. The hard part was maintaining an arc without long arcing. Very thin margin at 15 amps. I do wonder if Lincoln or somebody else makes these size rods and if they would burn better.

 

[BMWBOB]

Project finished. Each sail is a 16' triangle.

Stay cool...

I really like your sail installation - Could you give us some detail on how you fabricated/anchored your posts, and also the anchors used on the soffits etc?

 

[Reata210]

Shop table I built this weekend.

 

[DrReid]

Shop table I built this weekend.

Arcflat fab table? How do you like it? The more projects I make, like your very nice shop table, the more I see the value and ease of an Arcflat to relieve me from deploying an army of clamps, squares, and incantations so that my projects don't inherit the unflat/warps of my steel plate welding table top. Drives me bananas.

 

[Reata210]

Yes, it’s an arcflat. It is so nice to work on. Everything is razor straight and square that comes off it. Also becuse it is cast iron nothing really sticks to it like my other table. Spatter pretty much wipes right off. The table I built is the same heigh and will be helpful for larger projects. Will also use it for my chop saw and general shop use. Most of my other benches and tables are wood so having this will be a good addition.

 

[Reata210]

Yes, it’s an arcflat. It is so nice to work on. Everything is razor straight and square that comes off it. Also becuse it is cast iron nothing really sticks to it like my other table. Spatter pretty much wipes right off. The table I built is the same heigh and will be helpful for larger projects. Will also use it for my chop saw and general shop use. Most of my other benches and tables are wood so having this will be a good addition.

 

[Retroman]

Very nice table, I see the saw on the rack below has a circular clamping wheel did your saw come with that or did you add it? Looks like it is much quicker to clamp different size material than the silly one on my Morse Metal Devil.

 

[Reata210]

I put my porta band and evolution chop saw under the table. I used the evolution to cut all the materials for this project.

 

[BukitCase]

That appears to be the Evosaw380 - I have one. The newer versions got cheapened a bit, AFAIK the 380's the ONLY Evolution saw with that exact vise. The combination of a half-thread nut and that spinner handle makes it really quick to change. That model was still available last time I looked, but the '355" model has a different hand wheel... Steve

 

[Cap'n Coldeye]

I really like your sail installation - Could you give us some detail on how you fabricated/anchored your posts, and also the anchors used on the soffits etc?

Thanks. The mounting points for the posts were buried with 160 lbs of concrete (the pic of these mounting points were from another projected mounted the exact same way). I had to add a support leg to one of the post as the sail were pulling it out of square (leveraged force is amazing). This was done with a piece of 1" square tube and turn buckle as an adjustable support pushing against the patio edge. This fixed the out of square issue nicely.

As far as mounting points on the house. I made a stainless receiver style brackets that mounted under the soffits and bolted up to the roof truss framing. This had a couple advantages for me, one I can attach the sails above the gutters, and two I can take most of the hardware down in the rainy season. I plan to polish these up over the winter and add an eye bolt to them.

Cheers

 

[NakeDiesel]

Here are my last 2 welding projects:

Cart for my blasting cabinet I bought this winter





Rotating work station for grinders, belt sander, drill press and band saw

 

[Baldewin]

A couple of questions on the legs, are those the Arcflat legs? On the two tables you show which casters do you like better?

Shop table I built this weekend.

 

[Reata210]

A couple of questions on the legs, are those the Arcflat legs? On the two tables you show which casters do you like better?

Yes, they are the arcflat legs from Langmuir. The casters I added are rated at 500 lbs per caster and are levelers as well. Once the rubber feet are lowered it is rock solid. They are threaded 12mm so they bolted right on. I like the ones on the table I made as well, they roll better because of their size and are lockable. Hard to say which I like better since they are different applications.

 

[Reata210]

Very nice table, I see the saw on the rack below has a circular clamping wheel did your saw come with that or did you add it? Looks like it is much quicker to clamp different size material than the silly one on my Morse Metal Devil.

Thanks. It came on the saw which is the evo380 from evolution.

 

[BMWBOB]

Thanks. The mounting points for the posts were buried with 160 lbs of concrete (the pic of these mounting points were from another projected mounted the exact same way). I had to add a support leg to one of the post as the sail were pulling it out of square (leveraged force is amazing). This was done with a piece of 1" square tube and turn buckle as an adjustable support pushing against the patio edge. This fixed the out of square issue nicely.

As far as mounting points on the house. I made a stainless receiver style brackets that mounted under the soffits and bolted up to the roof truss framing. This had a couple advantages for me, one I can attach the sails above the gutters, and two I can take most of the hardware down in the rainy season. I plan to polish these up over the winter and add an eye bolt to them.

Cheers

Thanks for the clarification! Looks like you used some pretty heavy gauge steel - was this laying around or do you think thin wall would suffice, excepting the mounting plates for the soffits?

 

[Cap'n Coldeye]

Thanks for the clarification! Looks like you used some pretty heavy gauge steel - was this laying around or do you think thin wall would suffice, excepting the mounting plates for the soffits?

If I remeber correctly it was .1250 on the posts. With our Western Washington winds during the summer I think you could go thinner and get away with it. I plan on taking the down for the winter.

I see that you are also from Washington if you are on the west side you this might be helpful. I bought my steel from Interwest in Fife, and the Stainless came from Metal Supermarket in Kent. The Metal Supermarket has a room of shorts, you have to ask someone to point it out to you because it is pretty hidden in the back. I can usually find SS for $2 pound.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Here are my last 2 welding projects:

Cart for my blasting cabinet I bought this winter


Rotating work station for grinders, belt sander, drill press and band saw

That looks handy. Are any of the outlets on the power strip not being used? I might suggest plugging any unused holes with some plastic safety plugs you would use where small children play. Keep grinding trash out of the contacts.

 

[BMWBOB]

If I remeber correctly it was .1250 on the posts. With our Western Washington winds during the summer I think you could go thinner and get away with it. I plan on taking the down for the winter.

I see that you are also from Washington if you are on the west side you this might be helpful. I bought my steel from Interwest in Fife, and the Stainless came from Metal Supermarket in Kent. The Metal Supermarket has a room of shorts, you have to ask someone to point it out to you because it is pretty hidden in the back. I can usually find SS for $2 pound.

I'm in S E WA - we get 70-80 mph every year and over 100 every 10 yrs or so, but always Chinook winter (Pineapple Express) winds when the sails would be down. However, we have thunderstorms every summer with 30-40-mph gusts, but otherwise very little wind in the summer. Getting steel in rural E WA is not a problem, and we have recyclers that will sell cutoffs etc cheap.
Thanks for the info Cap'n - we are in the process of building out over and expanding our patio area. I intend to build into the soffits mounting plates/ hardware similar to yours and will use steel posts for perimeter tiedowns. All of which will be engineered by me, so it will most likely be way over built!

 

[NakeDiesel]

That looks handy. Are any of the outlets on the power strip not being used? I might suggest plugging any unused holes with some plastic safety plugs you would use where small children play. Keep grinding trash out of the contacts.

I put gorilla tape over the 2 empty outlets before I started using it.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Here is the rotissorie I built.

Features include: (1) arbor locks with spring loaded pins where the pin handle holds the pin in the retracted position for one man operation; (2) hydraulic jacks for raising but hitch pins in double shear to ensure arbors are concentric; (3) bushed center of gravity adjuster to raise or lower body to adjust for balance (use deep well socket and impact gun on coupling nut); (4) caster wheels with brakes at all corners - I used an oil pan drain bolt to lock wheel at 90 degrees; (5) push handles on both ends.

A fun project that is getting its use now.

Thanks for posting! How tall is the centerline from floor to pivot point?

 

[larry4406]

Thanks for posting! How tall is the centerline from floor to pivot point?

The top of the base to the pivot is 36" in the fully closed position. However, these items telescope to raise via the jack and the hitch pins. Not sure how much it can rise further (too much junk in garage to inspect). The plans I used shows the insertion piece as 30" from pivot center to its bottom. So it appears the tubes nest about 30" worth.

 

[Gurp]

My small project today. Got tired of my door swinging too far.
Off work for covid might as well make the best of it. Square tubing to the rescue.

 

[txvwnut]

Figured it was time to replace the aging gate going back to the shop. And for the OCD people when you see it I wasn’t happy about it either when I saw it.

 

[Woods_Wanderer]

I finally got around to finishing and painting the fab table I built last year.

This table has been a very ambitious project for me. For starters, everything except the top and the hardware was sourced from local scrapyards, requiring a lot of extra effort but saving me a pile of money on steel.

This table is about to get a short-column Powermatic 1200 drill press bolted to the non-extendable end, so I added a vertical reinforcing brace there and decided to go ahead and paint the frame while I had it all apart. My "new" Reed 3C will also be replacing the current Athol 625 while I'm at it.

 

[kaymccampbell]

My biggest decorative one to date. The front stairs. A bit of welding and forge work.


Turning a dead blast cabinet into a usable one.

The 3-D printer enclosure. And all the lift infill.


The trailer made out of two junkers.

 

[PugetDude]

Nice work on those stairs, Kay!

 

[stinkity stoink]

I finally got around to finishing and painting the fab table I built last year.

This table has been a very ambitious project for me. For starters, everything except the top and the hardware was sourced from local scrapyards, requiring a lot of extra effort but saving me a pile of money on steel.

This table is about to get a short-column Powermatic 1200 drill press bolted to the non-extendable end, so I added a vertical reinforcing brace there and decided to go ahead and paint the frame while I had it all apart. My "new" Reed 3C will also be replacing the current Athol 625 while I'm at it.

looks Awesome!!

 

[stinkity stoink]

My biggest decorative one to date. The front stairs. A bit of welding and forge work.


Turning a dead blast cabinet into a usable one.

The 3-D printer enclosure. And all the lift infill.


The trailer made out of two junkers.

Some really nice stuff. Stairs are amazing!!

 

[zmotorsports]

I finally got around to finishing and painting the fab table I built last year.

This table has been a very ambitious project for me. For starters, everything except the top and the hardware was sourced from local scrapyards, requiring a lot of extra effort but saving me a pile of money on steel.

This table is about to get a short-column Powermatic 1200 drill press bolted to the non-extendable end, so I added a vertical reinforcing brace there and decided to go ahead and paint the frame while I had it all apart. My "new" Reed 3C will also be replacing the current Athol 625 while I'm at it.

Great job. That is a nicely done fabrication table and should provide a lifetime of use.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Kay, I hate to tell you this, but I think you have a ghost dog haunting your stairs.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Kay, I hate to tell you this, but I think you have a ghost dog haunting your stairs.

Yeah. That's Harry, the very corporeal dog. The camera on my tablet doesn't do well with moving things, so Otto n Harry, who are busy little terriers/terrors, often look ghosty n cartoonish.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Yeah. That's Harry, the very corporeal dog. The camera on my tablet doesn't do well with moving things, so Otto n Harry, who are busy little terriers/terrors, often look ghosty n cartoonish.

I thought maybe he had warrants, so you blurred him for his own good.

 

[DrReid]

I finally got around to finishing and painting the fab table I built last year.

This table has been a very ambitious project for me. For starters, everything except the top and the hardware was sourced from local scrapyards, requiring a lot of extra effort but saving me a pile of money on steel.

This table is about to get a short-column Powermatic 1200 drill press bolted to the non-extendable end, so I added a vertical reinforcing brace there and decided to go ahead and paint the frame while I had it all apart. My "new" Reed 3C will also be replacing the current Athol 625 while I'm at it.

That is just outstanding! I love the clever use of bottle jacks. Do you experience any binding when raising or lowering the caster assemblies, or is it pretty smooth?

(I get most of my metal from the scrapyard, too, requiring lots of prep time to remove rust, mill scale, and occasional grease or oil.)

 

[Blackbyrd]

I'm considering building a fab table, priced it out and granted it was an online metal place but material cost about makes it worth buying a finished product.... maybe it's cheaper if I go local?

 

[Reata210]

After work project. Made a mount from material laying around for my tire changer. Was to high on my vise and this way I can use it in the shop or mobile.

 

[FadedGray]

Just a bracket to hold up some pipe and a pulley cover for a horizontal bandsaw.

 

[PugetDude]

Replaced my neighbor’s front porch railings. 2” x4” x 14 gauge top rails, floating baluster frames are 1-1/2” 16 gauge square tube and the balusters are 3/4” 16 gauge square tube. They didn’t want a round handrail. Told them I am going to weld one up anyway- they can add it if and when they sell the house.
This was the final welding project of the year up at the cabin; brought the 211 and 80/20 bottle back down to the Valley for the winter.
Found a local place up there to do the powder coating. They did a great job.