Small bearing puller needed

[Grant Gunderson]

"What manual / catalog are those tools out of? If my lathe was powered up I’d make one and add two bolts to pill it together however it’s not getting wired up till I get into my new shop with 3PH and that buildings not going to ready till January at least."

Grant

As a factory Service Centre for most brands of tools, we have access to many specialty tools that are designed and made to make fixing their tools easier. This plate set is from one of those, so not something that is commercially available.

Personally, I prefer to press bearings off, rather than pull them off, although we have an extensive selection of pullers and press fixtures.

This is the bearing splitter that I use regularly, similar to the Kukko you have shown.

https://otctools.com/products/5-ton-single-pressure-beam-bearing-splitter-set

The beam part of the puller sits in the box, just use the knives

That OTC style is also nice.. Price is good too, however it looks to be out of stock / discontinued.

I'm working on setting up a service center for E-bike motors, but there is almost ZERO MFG support as they all want you to just buy a new motor for $$$.

Here is the spec sheet on these plates List price is now around $455, used to be able to get them for $41.90

Damn at $42 I'd buy a few of them, at $455 I'll see if I can do a cad drawing and get someone to mfg them. Thats a ridiculous list price now.

 

[SilverJimmy]

Have you considered just boring a hole the same size as the outer race into a piece of 1/2” strap steel maybe 4” wide similar to your bearing splitter? Then you could simply tack weld the outer race to the strap and then easily press the bearing off the shaft. Touch the tack welds with your angle grinder, hit the old bearing out with a punch and you’re ready to pull another bearing off. If the outer races are different diameter just bore more holes in the plate. I think my description takes longer than doing it. Just a suggestion, and minimal cost to try.

 

[no704]

How many of these are you changing ? Are they actually bad or just have **** in them and need cleaning and new greese?my initial thought was a couple of Hf screwdrivers.

 

[no704]

What is the plastic? Might be able to induction heat the bearings a little.

 

[SilverJimmy]

@Grant Gunderson , what did you finally come up with? As a retired tool dealer I’m extremely interested in solutions to mechanical problems and the tools that solve them.

 

[nutsandbolts]

Have you looked at Kukko pullers? Very nice and quality that I think you would appreciate, though not cheap. They have an excellent puller guide that maybe of assistance: https://www.kukko.com/fileadmin/user_upload/know-how/downloads_en/pullerguide_en1.pdf

If these guys can't get you a solution then there isn't one available. They have many different two and three leg pullers which allow you use thin feet.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

@Grant Gunderson , what did you finally come up with? As a retired tool dealer I’m extremely interested in solutions to mechanical problems and the tools that solve them.

I ordered this one Forza. It still waiting on it to arrive

 

[SilverJimmy]

Cool, hope it works. How much American $$$?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Cool, hope it works. How much American $$$?

$350 plus shipping. Not cheap.

 

[SilverJimmy]

The pain of purchase will be long forgotten when you use that puller successfully years in the future!

 

[LXCam]

The pain of purchase will be long forgotten when you use that puller successfully years in the future!

And if it isn’t, you’ll never forget what you paid for that dust collector.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The pain of purchase will be long forgotten when you use that puller successfully years in the future!

And if it isn’t, you’ll never forget what you paid for that dust collector.

Only time I regret buying a new tool is when I find a much nicer one down the road and have to have it. This site is great for that and not great for my wallet.

 

[Oregon Dave]

Only time I regret buying a new tool is when I find a much nicer one down the road and have to have it. This site is great for that and not great for my wallet.

I may be missing something, but if you already have a puller but the tips are too thick; with such small diameter bearings - ever thought about filing/grinding a taper on the tips; use a vise grip pliers with pipe jaws to hold the tips tight to the bearing.

Can't tell the bottom clearance from the pic's; feeler gauge should do it - guide you in modifying your puller.

 

[bigfunwmu]

If the puller you found from Forza doesn't get there, look up the Schrem pullers from JRM. They can grab the inner race and pull the bearing off the shaft that way. You would need 3 parts: Puller, Collet, and the forcing screw point (aka spindle adapter).

 

[honcho]

I'm working on setting up a service center for E-bike motors, but there is almost ZERO MFG support as they all want you to just buy a new motor for $$$.

Bosch, Shimano, Brose or other brand motor? I've casually viewed a video on YouTube of a UK e-bike motor service center that does bearing replacements. Perhaps a query to them could get them to reveal their secret sauce (if they have one) for similar type work.

As an aside, I really dislike the highly proprietary nature of e-bike drivetrains. One thing I've always enjoyed about bikes is the ability of cyclists to tackle just about any sort of mechanical work on a bike. E-bikes and electronic shifting has greatly diminished the ability of cyclists to fix their own stuff.

 

[whateg01]

As an aside, I really dislike the highly proprietary nature of e-bike drivetrains. One thing I've always enjoyed about bikes is the ability of cyclists to tackle just about any sort of mechanical work on a bike. E-bikes and electronic shifting has greatly diminished the ability of cyclists to fix their own stuff.

There are so many companies building e bikes that designs and parts will be pretty different for awhile. There may come a day when it becomes necessary to standardize to sustain their existence but not yet.

I think the customer buying an e bike is different than the customer who would have bought an old school bicycle. It's become more like a coffee maker, where people just want to buy it and ride it and not have to work on it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

If the puller you found from Forza doesn't get there, look up the Schrem pullers from JRM. They can grab the inner race and pull the bearing off the shaft that way. You would need 3 parts: Puller, Collet, and the forcing screw point (aka spindle adapter).

Those look awe fully beefy. Wish I had known about their collet pullers. The tool I modified is working well, but the Forza will be a nice back up.

Bosch, Shimano, Brose or other brand motor? I've casually viewed a video on YouTube of a UK e-bike motor service center that does bearing replacements. Perhaps a query to them could get them to reveal their secret sauce (if they have one) for similar type work.

As an aside, I really dislike the highly proprietary nature of e-bike drivetrains. One thing I've always enjoyed about bikes is the ability of cyclists to tackle just about any sort of mechanical work on a bike. E-bikes and electronic shifting has greatly diminished the ability of cyclists to fix their own stuff.

Right now I’m the only guy in NA doing Shimano. I’m now setup as a factory service center for Brose and Fazua as well. Working on Bosch. I’ve started offering the motor service as a “soft” launch until I get my new shop fully built out once the building is done.


This is an Shimano EP8-RS that grenaded its self it’s supposed to be their Lite weight option, but mechanically it’s the same as the standard EP8. They just limit it with software. Problem is these systems and especially Shimano are locked down with software so in the case of the EP8 only option to replace is to buy a new 801 motor, battery and all new wiring harness, display and controls. That’s over $2k and basically makes the used e-bikes worthless.

Same motor now ready to accept the gear train. This one needed the Sprag clutch rebuilt and all of the bearings replaced. I’ve had to make all of the tooling, fixtures and bench tester to work on these as there is Zero support from Shimano.

There are so many companies building e bikes that designs and parts will be pretty different for awhile. There may come a day when it becomes necessary to standardize to sustain their existence but not yet.

I think the customer buying an e bike is different than the customer who would have bought an old school bicycle. It's become more like a coffee maker, where people just want to buy it and ride it and not have to work on it.

Classic bike industry. Zero “standards” every brand uses its own motor mount so you can’t even switch to a different brand when one dies and on top of it many times the new motors are not compatible with the previous battery/ wiring system either. What’s crazy is many of these bikes were $8-10k new and if the shimano motor dies you need to spend over $2k to replace it, when these bikes in the used market are only worth 3-4k. I’m able to get most of the motors going again for $3-400.

 

[cannuck]

Ordered a bunch of pullers. We will see what works after it all gets delivered, but I’m not too optimistic on any them.

Have run into "sunken" bearings such as this many times. What I do is chuck up a piece of tube or pipe of right OD (less then ID of recess in gear) and ID enough to leave a workable diameter and "lip") then machine a bearing OD and width (22 x 7 mm in this case) on one end with a tapered lip at end ID maxed out of 0.8mm at the root tapering to near zero at the ID. Make a similar ID groove at the other end, but with more and square lip. Make a round nut to use a grade 8 UNF puller bolt. The nut goes into the square groove at the outer end, the bearing will fit the inner groove at the bottom end. Cut the tube longitudinally with band saw into 4 x 90 degree parts, each of one will now easily fit into the counterbore and hook behind the bearing. Now that your puller "hooks" are over 2" long, you don't ultra hard tool steel or a really think hook to be able to pull the bearing. The puller nut goes into the top groove and you clamp the whole thing together with a normal gear type hose clamp. The will give enough friction to hold the puller nut from turning while you run the gr8 bolt in to pull stuff off. I have removed some extremely tight bearings with such a tool and it takes only a half hour on the lathe, no waiting on orders, material from offcut scrap pile.

If this is to be a very high use tool, I would make the OD with a taper to be able to slide a tapered ID ring over the outsie to clamp it all together instead of a gear clamp.

 

[honcho]

Those look awe fully beefy. Wish I had known about their collet pullers. The tool I modified is working well, but the Forza will be a nice back up.

Right now I’m the only guy in NA doing Shimano. I’m now setup as a factory service center for Brose and Fazua as well. Working on Bosch. I’ve started offering the motor service as a “soft” launch until I get my new shop fully built out once the building is done.


This is an Shimano EP8-RS that grenaded its self it’s supposed to be their Lite weight option, but mechanically it’s the same as the standard EP8. They just limit it with software. Problem is these systems and especially Shimano are locked down with software so in the case of the EP8 only option to replace is to buy a new 801 motor, battery and all new wiring harness, display and controls. That’s over $2k and basically makes the used e-bikes worthless.

Same motor now ready to accept the gear train. This one needed the Sprag clutch rebuilt and all of the bearings replaced. I’ve had to make all of the tooling, fixtures and bench tester to work on these as there is Zero support from Shimano.

Classic bike industry. Zero “standards” every brand uses its own motor mount so you can’t even switch to a different brand when one dies and on top of it many times the new motors are not compatible with the previous battery/ wiring system either. What’s crazy is many of these bikes were $8-10k new and if the shimano motor dies you need to spend over $2k to replace it, when these bikes in the used market are only worth 3-4k. I’m able to get most of the motors going again for $3-400.

I hope the business gods smile upon you and your endeavor.

 

[ericm]

Oh my god. That is nasty. Did someone dump dirt into the case?

 

[tom in nh]

Have run into "sunken" bearings such as this many times. What I do is chuck up a piece of tube or pipe of right OD (less then ID of recess in gear) and ID enough to leave a workable diameter and "lip") then machine a bearing OD and width (22 x 7 mm in this case) on one end with a tapered lip at end ID maxed out of 0.8mm at the root tapering to near zero at the ID. Make a similar ID groove at the other end, but with more and square lip. Make a round nut to use a grade 8 UNF puller bolt. The nut goes into the square groove at the outer end, the bearing will fit the inner groove at the bottom end. Cut the tube longitudinally with band saw into 4 x 90 degree parts, each of one will now easily fit into the counterbore and hook behind the bearing. Now that your puller "hooks" are over 2" long, you don't ultra hard tool steel or a really think hook to be able to pull the bearing. The puller nut goes into the top groove and you clamp the whole thing together with a normal gear type hose clamp. The will give enough friction to hold the puller nut from turning while you run the gr8 bolt in to pull stuff off. I have removed some extremely tight bearings with such a tool and it takes only a half hour on the lathe, no waiting on orders, material from offcut scrap pile.

If this is to be a very high use tool, I would make the OD with a taper to be able to slide a tapered ID ring over the outsie to clamp it all together instead of a gear clamp.

By chance, do you have a photo or drawing of this tool?
Thanks,
Tom

 

[Jarhead0408]

Here's my offering, but you'd still have to grind it down a bit. The 2.5mm seems to be at the thickest point of the finger, the thinnest part of that finger is thiner than the base, butnit appears to taper upwards from the base. These are plenty stong in unmodified form for windshield wipers, abut I don't know how weak it would be if you shaved it down.

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[Grant Gunderson]

I hope the business gods smile upon you and your endeavor.

Thanks. We will see what transpires. I started offering ski mounts and suspension work as a side business out of my garage and it’s grown to the point it’s worth taking the gamble on a commercial space and do a full build out. Nothing ventured nothing gained I guess…

Oh my god. That is nasty. Did someone dump dirt into the case?

No, that motor had 7k miles on it. Which is a lot for an e-bike. Bearings imploded and that caused the gear shafts to wobble and wear.

 

[Kkmk]

608s are cheap and plentiful. I wouldn’t even bother thinking of reusing them. If they’re not stuffed already, pulling off a shaft by the outer race will hurt them.

I’m keen for new tools as much as the next guy, but new techniques / skills are cheaper and more versatile.

Squeeze the bearing in a vice until it cracks, then wiggle the outer race off. Then cage and balls. You can then try a seperator grabbing the groove of the inner race if you really want to. Much less stuffing aroubd to just split the inner race with grinding wheel or die grinder, then wriggle it off.