To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

SmartShed for quick outside storage?

Cobra5150

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
1,957
Location
GA
I'm thinking about getting one of these from the local mini house lot. Any experience with them. Looking at the displays the quality looks good and the wife says I'll never take the time to build one even though I could (built house, garage, 8x12 shed & garage at dad's house many eons ago) but it's the time thing.
Price is a less than what is quoted on the website.
12x20.JPG
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

driftpin

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Messages
11,292
Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
You are in-luck you're in GA, home of Lark Sheds. Look at this thread before you make any purchase:


There are threads in that link which will be of-interest to you.

The largest shed I could get in the jurisdiction/municipality was 10' X 20' and that is what I got. I had poured a thickend-edge slab slightly-larger than the footprint of the building, and I had removed an asphalt driveway, replaced with a concrete driveway, again thickened-edge. It has fiber-reinforced concrete, w/6" X 6" WWM throughout and two #5 rebar in the thickened edges. A poly barrier beneath the driveway/slab was included.

1755881356276.png

1755881523791.png



The Lark is a well-built structure, w/its galvanized-steel framing and shear-walls and is HVHZ-rated (high-velocity hurricane zone) to 175 MPH gusts. It had State of FL Product Approval for the design and the wind loads. It's anchored to the slab with HILTI fasteners, on 3' centers, I forget the exact fastener size, but in one of the threads I made, it should say. The building is 3/4" plywood and Hardy-Board, w/a standing seam steel roof. It has a vapor barrier, and one gable end is a steel roll-up door. I spec'ed it with a framed-out space for a 36" Impact-Rated steel door I hung myself.




1755881563259.png

The 'recommended independent installation contractor' turned-out to be a waste of time, money, and materials. I fired him when his equipment couldn't drill the HILTI holes deep-enough, and he began attempting to hammer on them to get them set, w/the hole only half-drilled for the required depth. The HILTI pin on the left, is one he 'set.' The one on the right is mine, set to the depth called-for by the stamped/sealed plans. I also used a closer spacing and a larger-diameter pin.

1755881806774.png

It has a 100 amp service, underground conduit, and motion sensor lighting.

1755882144843.png

1755882214108.png

It wasn't inexpensive, but it's all permitted, and it gave me needed room for tools and work-space. I recommend that you look at Lark Sheds of GA if you can afford it. https://www.larkbuilders.com/
 
OP
C

Cobra5150

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
1,957
Location
GA
The wife is probably right.
They're usually pretty good at reading us. More than we care to admit. 😁
Yep, x 1000
She said you can make the difference in the materials and the cost of the shed faster than building this yourself. Wise words from a wise woman (I do question her choice of husband though………..):unsure::ROFLMAO:
 
OP
C

Cobra5150

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
1,957
Location
GA
You are in-luck you're in GA, home of Lark Sheds. Look at this thread before you make any purchase:


There are threads in that link which will be of-interest to you.

The largest shed I could get in the jurisdiction/municipality was 10' X 20' and that is what I got. I had poured a thickend-edge slab slightly-larger than the footprint of the building, and I had removed an asphalt driveway, replaced with a concrete driveway, again thickened-edge. It has fiber-reinforced concrete, w/6" X 6" WWM throughout and two #5 rebar in the thickened edges. A poly barrier beneath the driveway/slab was included.

1755881356276.png

1755881523791.png



The Lark is a well-built structure, w/its galvanized-steel framing and shear-walls and is HVHZ-rated (high-velocity hurricane zone) to 175 MPH gusts. It had State of FL Product Approval for the design and the wind loads. It's anchored to the slab with HILTI fasteners, on 3' centers, I forget the exact fastener size, but in one of the threads I made, it should say. The building is 3/4" plywood and Hardy-Board, w/a standing seam steel roof. It has a vapor barrier, and one gable end is a steel roll-up door. I spec'ed it with a framed-out space for a 36" Impact-Rated steel door I hung myself.




1755881563259.png

The 'recommended independent installation contractor' turned-out to be a waste of time, money, and materials. I fired him when his equipment couldn't drill the HILTI holes deep-enough, and he began attempting to hammer on them to get them set, w/the hole only half-drilled for the required depth. The HILTI pin on the left, is one he 'set.' The one on the right is mine, set to the depth called-for by the stamped/sealed plans. I also used a closer spacing and a larger-diameter pin.

1755881806774.png

It has a 100 amp service, underground conduit, and motion sensor lighting.

1755882144843.png

1755882214108.png

It wasn't inexpensive, but it's all permitted, and it gave me needed room for tools and work-space. I recommend that you look at Lark Sheds of GA if you can afford it. https://www.larkbuilders.com/
I could afford it for sure. I could build the shop of my dreams but I don’t think we will be living here 5 years from now. That is nice but probably 1.5-2X the cost.
 
OP
C

Cobra5150

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
1,957
Location
GA
I see the reason for not many replies. The company is somewhat local to NE GA & SC. Reviews from all dealers are generally positive and any negatives I can understand they are either minor or out of SS’s control.

 

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,804
Location
Richmond, VA
I see the reason for not many replies. The company is somewhat local to NE GA & SC. Reviews from all dealers are generally positive and any negatives I can understand they are either minor or out of SS’s control.

That was my first thought when I saw the thread. Most shed builders just serve a region

Personally, I don't love the lack of overhangs, but that's common for these kinds of sheds.

If they are using real framing lumber, at normal intervals in the wall and roof, and properly spec'd floor framing, I am sure it will be fine.

The siding look like LP smartside, which is good quality and will last.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
C

Cobra5150

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
1,957
Location
GA
^^^^This^^^^
2x4 on 16” centers, double studs every 4’ 12” spacing on pressure treated floor joists are the specs that stand out.
Looks like I’ll be ordering it this afternoon.
 

Snapped-off

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
4,809
Location
Indiana
I spec'd one up to what I'm having built, and it's a little bit more expensive than mine.

But it should be fine. Mine is "Amish" built, but looks to be good quality.

I'd go for it. I don't have the time to build one, which is why I'm paying for one.
 

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,804
Location
Richmond, VA
I spent about 8k to build a 16x16 and 3k for a 8x8. If you can get that delivered for less than the price shown, I'd say absolutely go for it
 

Bucko

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2021
Messages
679
You may try searching Facebook marketplace for local shed sellers and see if they have any Repo's (yes its a thing). I bought my car trailer and a utility trailer as a repo for way cheaper than new and the place also sold storage buildings and had repo's from time to time. The car trailer had a build date of like 8 months and had already been repossessed by a deadbeat buyer. I actually found a tracker on it when I was adding some anchor mounts so I guess that's how they located it from the previous owner. The utility trailer was about 18 months old.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom