Spreading the Bonney affliction!

[Oldtuleguy]

I think maybe some late ones could have been red

 

[LesserSon]

My thought is that Bonney switched from brown to red in the late ‘40s (maybe 1949), using up the “plane train automobile” logos on new red boxes, then continuing with the tartan logos. This explains the few red boxes with the “p t a” logos. Maybe too, there could be a few brown boxes with the tartan logo? That’s what I meant by a “mixed-elements transition”.
The red CC10 roller cart persisted from 1950 to at least 1957, and its tan precurser (CC cart) only differs from it in the b/w catalog illustrations by having the casters mounted outside the corners (“outrigger”).
Since the one alinc100 posted is both brown and has the casters inboard, could be Bonney added the “10” to “CC” only to distinguish it from the CC5 and CC15 carts, and the caster and color changes are independent from the model number change.
Help me if my logic has failed.
I see no trace of a Bonney logo, but I see no other company logo, either. Whatever its history, I’m adopting it into my Bonney collection.
And I am favoring putting my MB82 on it, instead of the earlier box, until I decide about the “Shimano” logo.

 

[LesserSon]

My quest to find a mass market match to 1950s Bonney red crinkle (center) has led me to conclude there isn’t one. Rustoleum 2X (Painters Touch) Regal Red (right) is very close to the oxidized surface, but there are hints under the surface that suggest Rustoleum Stops Rust Sunrise Red (left).
The surface at the left is a (formerly powder blue) Union tool tote I sprayed this morning at 70°F 80% humidity in hopes of inspiring some crinkle (got a tiny bit, so I’m encouraged).
I will wait the six weeks (or whatever it is, then spray Regal Red satin lightly over it and check it again.

 

[Mintgrun]

in hopes of inspiring some crinkle

Have you tried using a heat gun to encourage crinkling?

These guys are discussing using heat

how long does it take for wrinkle paint to dry?

i painted a set of valve covers 5 days ago with krylon wrinkle finish and they still have a "squishy" feeling to them still, you can put your nail...

www.jalopyjournal.com

The missing aluminum trim piece on your box looks a little wider than the VW trim.

 

[LesserSon]

I picked up this 3/4hp Craftsman motor for $10 at last year’s NY90 50mile garage sale, and it’s been sitting in various states of inattention with a POS 2-arm puller (which did a fine job deforming the pulley) ever since. I considered buying a beefier Harbor Freight puller, or some USA brand at the flea markets I frequent, but then figured I’d just keep an eye out for a Bonney to add to the collection.
Today a PO12 arrived from eBay, $37.09 w tax, free shipping (not much more than it sold for in 1950); I put it to immediate use.
Five minutes later.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

That puller looks alot better

 

[LesserSon]

I continued my color experiments today. Home Depot had Regal Red in gloss only, so I picked up two different sprays, mostly for formula compatibility with what they were going over. I think either result works okay.
The underside of some original drawers didn’t have a crinkle finish. Without the texture, I think Brick Red wins by a nose. But considering the vagueries of environmental exposure and current lighting conditions, I think either serves.

 

[S-K Tool Fanatic!]

Picked this up for $6, more than I usually would pay, but I wanted a Bonney for my collection.

Before (pardon the bad pic)

Here it is after wire wheeling and a coat of fluid film.

 

[LesserSon]

Before repaint:

I started with the back, which was silver as found. The obvious red spray edge at the corners (and on the casters, though they’re already booted) had me thinking at first that it had already been repainted at some point, but the color match to other Bonney boxes I have made me decide that’s just the way it came from the factory
First a coat of Sunrise Red:
Then a coat of Heritage Red:
Then I got brave and did the top, sides, and bottom interior (from which all the original crinkle had crumbled and lay mixed with rust and grime), and finally the front.
After an hour, I used mineral spirits and paper towels to help the Sunrise Red peek though a bit.
After a couple hours, I decided the color wasn’t earthy enough, so I put some Brick Red over the whole thing. Maybe it was just the can I had, but the pigment wasn’t very opaque, which worked in my favor, as I wanted to use it as toner.

After repaint:

 

[LesserSon]

Then I tried an idea out that I had for my MB82. The Bonney logo was almost entirely worn off.
But I have a better one on another box. I took two photos (one holding a ruler for scale) and pasted them into MS Publisher. I matched the ruler to the app’s border scale, then scaled the rulerless photo to match as well, and deleted the one with the ruler. Now I could print the logo at actual scale without trial and error.
I cut out the letters with a utility knife, affixed them to the box with rubber cement, and masked off what I didn’t want ivory
LIGHTLY sprayed.

I will add the drop shadow effect and tartan field with black paint with a brush, but that’s a winter project. I plan to add the Bonney logo the same way to the roller cart.

 

[GoToGuy_Ron]

Greg: I wondered how closely this chest matches the one you got from Todd?
I couldn’t relocate the images that were
posted previously.
There is no Bonney branding on it; in fact, I can’t make out whatever was on this label.

If you could take good photo with no reflection, in photo editor try changing colors or switching to negative photo colors. Also try a UV flashlight, there cheap, and that may get print or logos to " pop out ".

 

[GoToGuy_Ron]

New to the Bonney affliction but wanted to share this set I picked up on an online ad for what I thought was too good to pass up ($65!). Still trying to put together my polished combination set but I guess I’ve got another set to complete now!

I have this complete set with red roll up. The sizes are 1/4 thru 1 inch the set I bought new in 80's. They have served me well in the Aviation industry.

 

[ararat]

Here's a DOE wrench that has a different style date code. A2R. I haven't seen that before. Maybe they changed something in the middle of the month.

 

[mritchie77]

Bonney 585 wrench showed up from an eBay seller today. $4.

 

[Mintgrun]

$4

including shipping?

 

[mritchie77]

including shipping?

Nope. I actually went back and checked. $3 and $5 shipping.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Bonney 585 wrench

Are you trying to collect a set? Are you familiar with the origin of the model number and the history?

 

[mritchie77]

Are you trying to collect a set? Are you familiar with the origin of the model number and the history?

Yes to both, and I have your thread on the subject to thank for this next endeavor….like I even needed another.

I stumbled across this one on eBay and remembered your posts. it was cheap, so I figured why not!

 

[LesserSon]

Well, well, well!
Nice score. Congratulations, and good luck finding other sizes.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Yes to both, and I have your thread on the subject to thank for this next endeavor...

Excellent! I may have a few spares.

...like I even needed another.

I keep trying to tell myself it's not as expensive as golfing.

 

[Snaparxon]

Found a couple of Bonney Whitworth wrenches today. If you need these for your collection let me know. I will pass these on for what little bit I'm into them plus as cheap of freight as I can do.

Bottom 2 wrenches W1164 and W1165

 

[LesserSon]

Here’s my Bonney findings for the day. I also found a small Forsberg-style straight screwdriver and a B-shield F29 DOE, but both were very rough - the tip of the driver was almost gone and the handle had plier marks, while the F29 had a broken jaw welded back on.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

Couple of ignition wrenches

 

[outofbounds]

Looking for a positive ID on this 1/2 Drive ratchet. Previously posted randomly and identified as a Truth but no markings to definitively support this. Since I presume Bonney made the Truth ratchets I figured I’d let the Bonney experts weigh in on this. Is this perhaps a special tool kit ratchet with the part number shown?

 

[3baygarage]

That is a "Truth" ratchet. That ratchet was used for numerous brands, some unbranded. I think the forge mark might belong to someone else, not Bonney though.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Since I presume Bonney made the Truth ratchets...

I'm guessing your presumption is based on the switch, which is, admittedly, very reminiscent of the Bonney switches of the 40s, but it's probably just a coincidence of TRUTH using a similar, simple pin-type design. The forgings of the bodies of the ratchets and the construction are not the same. I can see how the "B" (in that "B" with a small "s" inside of it forge marking) is also tempting a Bonney ID, but as 3bay alluded to, that marking doesn't show up on Bonney ratchets or other tools and is not known to be associated with Bonney.

 

[outofbounds]

I'm guessing your presumption is based on the switch, which is, admittedly, very reminiscent of the Bonney switches of the 40s, but it's probably just a coincidence of TRUTH using a similar, simple pin-type design. The forgings of the bodies of the ratchets and the construction are not the same. I can see how the "B" (in that "B" with a small "s" inside of it forge marking) is also tempting a Bonney ID, but as 3bay alluded to, that marking doesn't show up on Bonney ratchets or other tools and is not known to be associated with Bonney.

Thanks to you guys, 3Bay & Lugz, for the direction on this. I scoured the Truth thread (only 3 pages vs. 131 pages here!) and noticed a 1/2 ratchet virtually identical to this one in an old Ward Master set marked "R6 USA". If you want to go down in history as true sages, you might offer insight to the Part No. logic that makes mine read "R6A USA".......

 

[LesserSon]

Yardsaling today, I picked up a PH1 2oz ballpein and a 16J narrow concrete jointer (ca1915). The jointer was pretty rusty as found.
But some vigorous scraping and a few minutes on the wire wheel made that all better. The grip is receiving separate attention.
I think I now have three PH1 hammers, and every one has some kind of warp to the handle.

 

[LesserSon]

Picked up a mostly-complete Set No.WS in original box last weekend for $15. Sold for $14.55 in 1932, by which time the sockets and some drive tools had different designs (knurled band). The few date codes I noticed were “U” (1929).
I thought OR posted a box like this, without a visible logo, but haven’t relocated the post.
In addition to some other-branded subs and extras and a thick layer of hardened oily crud, it contained a Bonney 4093rat 4087tee 4084spdr 4091ext 4095uni and sockets D28,26,25,20,19,18(owner-ground narrower),16,14. Missing D24,22.
A Herbrand substituted for the missing 5”ext was owner-marked with three short slashes, like the Bonney drive tools. I am moving my collection from one room to another, but probably have the three missing items to fill in.

 

[3baygarage]

Nice. What else you got in there? When I zoomed in there I see a Vlchek socket, maybe more than one.

 

[Raineman]

LS, what a great find.

 

[LesserSon]

Yes - 1/2dr Vlchek 3/4 & 9/16, Husky 11/32, a couple 3/8dr. There are two Wright tools I don’t recognize, looking like sockets with an eccentric 3/8 sq hole end and a larger keyhole end. I’m at work now, so I’ll post pics of the extras this evening.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Picked up a mostly-complete Set No.WS in original box...[ ]...“U” (1929).

Nice!

Missing D24,22... missing 5”ext ...[ ]...but probably have the three missing items to fill in.

Post an update if not.

 

[Old Radar]

I thought OR posted a box like this, without a visible logo, but haven’t relocated the post.

I don't think it was me, unless you mean the unbranded machinist box I posted on the GS thread in mid April.

 

[LesserSon]

OR - Somebody else, then. I’ll take another look through the thread. EDIT - right guy, wrong box and wrong thread.

At the request of 3bay, here’s what else was in the box:
The drive plug in the Bonney rat turned out to be Hinsdale.
A Wright drag link socket and whatever these two things are.
And remnants of whatever this set serviced back in the day.
I think the small hinged thing in the center is a can-opener. The two L-shaped arms…maybe for a large snap-ring pliers?

LUGZ - I did find a 4090ext from 1928 and spare D22 & D24 in my hoard. I even have the right drive plug, but it’s already with an appropriate ratchet.

 

[four.cycle]

^ the odd hinged thing is a P38 can opener

Shelby / Shelby Corp., Shelby, OH / "P38" can opener / patent 2413528 Dec 31 1946 & RE22934 Nov 11 1947 John W. Speaker / see also J.W. Speaker Corp., see also KoolAir, St. Paul, MN /

Speaker / J.W. Speaker Corp., Milwaukee, WI / "P38" can opener / patent 2413528 Dec 31 1946 & RE22934 Nov 11 1947 John W. Speaker / also manufactured by KoolAire, St. Paul, MN, and Shelby Corp., Shelby, OH / https://www.army.mil/article/25736/the_best_army_invention_ever /

KoolAire / KoolAire, St. Paul, MN / "P38" can opener / patent 2413528 Dec 31 1946 & RE22934 Nov 11 1947 John W. Speaker / see also J.W. Speaker Corp, see also Shelby Corp. /

^ this is all more in Private Lugnutz's area of expertise, but ..... I THINK that the Speaker company was the first to produce these units. (Can openers, bottle openers, lid lifter, and corkscrews is a weird rabbit hole.... I still have several hundred files in an "unknown" folder I need to sort through, which is why I try to NOT mention them here.)

Why always the bent nails in tool boxes? What's up with that? Is it a thing like using roofing nails to secure the heads onto ball-pein hammers?

(I've sent an inquiry to Wright regarding those sockets, but my eyeballs are telling me some sort of gland nut socket maybe? I hate making wild guesses.... especially when that gizmo in the other thread turned out to be a "barrel vise".)

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

^ the odd hinged thing is a P38 can opener

Shelby / Shelby Corp., Shelby, OH / "P38" can opener / patent 2413528 Dec 31 1946 & RE22934 Nov 11 1947 John W. Speaker / see also J.W. Speaker Corp., see also KoolAir, St. Paul, MN /

Speaker / J.W. Speaker Corp., Milwaukee, WI / "P38" can opener / patent 2413528 Dec 31 1946 & RE22934 Nov 11 1947 John W. Speaker / also manufactured by KoolAire, St. Paul, MN, and Shelby Corp., Shelby, OH / https://www.army.mil/article/25736/the_best_army_invention_ever /

KoolAire / KoolAire, St. Paul, MN / "P38" can opener / patent 2413528 Dec 31 1946 & RE22934 Nov 11 1947 John W. Speaker / see also J.W. Speaker Corp, see also Shelby Corp. /

^ this is all more in Private Lugnutz's area of expertise, but ..... I THINK that the Speaker company was the first to produce these units. (Can openers, bottle openers, lid lifter, and corkscrews is a weird rabbit hole.... I still have several hundred files in an "unknown" folder I need to sort through, which is why I try to NOT mention them here.)

Why always the bent nails in tool boxes? What's up with that? Is it a thing like using roofing nails to secure the heads onto ball-pein hammers?

(I've sent an inquiry to Wright regarding those sockets, but my eyeballs are telling me some sort of gland nut socket maybe? I hate making wild guesses.... especially when that gizmo in the other thread turned out to be a "barrel vise".)

My dad would of straighten those nails and used them again. It is a growing up in the depression thing.

 

[four.cycle]

^ My Grandfather and his partner Emil taught me how to straighten nails when I was 6 years old and they were building Grandma and Grandpa's new house. I was helping! (I think they actually used those nails, too.) (Grandpa landed at Ellis Island in 1903)

 

[Old Radar]

I thought OR posted a box like this, without a visible logo

EDIT - right guy, wrong box and wrong thread.

Yep. The only thing similar is neither has a visible logo. Although the machinist box I suggested was just as far off!

 

[Ricky Joe]

The P-38 is referred to as a church key. My guess is that those bent nails were used as cotter keys. Tell me you’ve never done that before!