



It didn't have a ratchet. (My 46-pc No. V55 set wasn't issued a ratchet, either.) And the miniature pliers are extra. And one of the screwdrivers, probably. I'm pretty sure that's the No. V52 set. And it's complete - except for the spinner! See page 8 in the 1941 catalog. And you may recall it as the 41-W-2615-20 from the ORD 5. We tend to forget about the other midgets sets because they weren't issued to the GMTK. Congrats on owning a terrific set.Surprisingly absent is the ratchet.



Um, trust me, I've been wondering the same thing myself! Removing the ratchet from this set...Not sure how it's going to fit in that box,


You are probably correct on the part number for that socket. My later full chrome 1/4” has V11 on it
LessorSon, here are my letter-wrenches I've found so for at the mill (A, D, E, E, J, K). I have two "E" wrenches, both in great shape. PM me your address, and I'll send you one of the "E" wrenches no charge. They didn't cast me anything!PSCo1867, nice find on that E wrench! I don’t have that one yet.
I had my hand on what I call a “cravat” S-wrench last Sunday (they also have flash), and got a little spike of false recognition, then realized Bonney didn’t make those (I think). Price was good, but I wasn’t in the mood to double my cravat wrench collection, and left it behind. Some day, I’m sure, I’ll figure out who made them, and regret not buying it. When I got home, I saw that the unpurchased one had a clearer part number on it, but I hadn’t taken a photo.

That's what I told him. He doesn't really curry in collectibles. He's basing his price on used user rationale. He is making a killing buying vintage tools at flea markets here for peanuts and selling them for low retail to off the books mechanics in Florida. He's been doing it for a few years now. Mainly chrome, mainly =V=, Snap-on and SK. But those kinds of scramblers are usually after metric. Which was the angle I tried to use to talk him down.Wow those are cool! 250 is a bit high
Do you mean it's the same set?...and now it appears to have sold.



No - the set I saw had no era-correct box, and it was cleaner. Mick had it at Qtown selling it “for somebody else.” Maybe he still has it, but I didn’t see it the past two weekends.Do you mean it's the same set?
[…]
probably have a hard time getting that money back at some future date on resale.
I consistently lose money on resale. If I want it, it is gold. If I have it, it has mysteriously turned brown. Yeah, that brown!That's what I told him. He doesn't really curry in collectibles. He's basing his price on used user rationale. He is making a killing buying vintage tools at flea markets here for peanuts and selling them for low retail to off the books mechanics in Florida. He's been doing it for a few years now. Mainly chrome, mainly =V=, Snap-on and SK. But those kinds of scramblers are usually after metric. Which was the angle I tried to use to talk him down.
Do you mean it's the same set?
Your other thoughts and UNAIU's are similar to mine. I was thinking it would be nice to have, I would beat my chest here for a week, and admire it on the Bonney shelf for a long time, but probably have a hard time getting that money back at some future date on resale.
X2 here.I consistently lose money on resale. If I want it, it is gold. If I have it, it has mysteriously turned brown. Yeah, that brown!
X3I consistently lose money on resale. If I want it, it is gold. If I have it, it has mysteriously turned brown. Yeah, that brown!
I consistently lose money on resale.
X2 here.
I've been running my hobby in the black for quite some time, but I think it's primarily a function of source (I am fortunate to live near some excellent flea markets, so I am buying very low) and time.
1938-1946. If I could discern the 2-letter date code, it could be dated to a specific month and year.Any way of knowing how old it is?
Fantastic, thanks.1938-1946. If I could discern the 2-letter date code, it could be dated to a specific month and year.
Thanks.The letter codes are forged-in (raised), not stamped. They can be at either end, either side, near the rings. The first letter will be A-L; the second, M-Z. They can be joined by several small dots and/or a larger X- or V-shape. Unfortunately, they can be obliterated in the finishing process or by subsequent wear.
I've been running my hobby in the black for quite some time, but I think it's primarily a function of source (I am fortunate to live near some excellent flea markets, so I am buying very low) and time.
There are tools that I buy strictly and explicitly to flip, to bankroll my "keeper" buying, but they are chosen and acquired strictly and explicitly for their resale value, with that math in mind, and I flip them immediately for that reason.
There are also tools that I buy with the intention of "keeping" in the Lugzsonian (researching, displaying, showing off, and proudly admiring them and my good aesthetics and fortune in having found and preserved them) forever, but the fondness wears off or my interests and desires shift and I end up passing them on to other collectors. Like the tools I am expressly buying to flip, they are being bought and sold within the same general timeframe (a few years, not a few decades), so their market value is retained.
But there are certainly tools that are deeper keepers that I will never, ever sell. I am only 61. Realistically, I have fifteen maybe twenty or so years in me, God willing. Someone - either Mrs. Lugz, perhaps, or the Offspringz, is probably going to lose some money on their resale as the market for antique and vintage tools shifts or wanes. As all the old tool buying jokes go. But it won't be me.![]()
If you want to try to make a set, I have several.Thanks.
No trace of anything like that left u fortunately, but always good to learn about these things.
I didn't know the make when I bought it, had to look it up when I got home.
It just looked good quality and felt really nice in the hand so I bought it.
Probably my favourite spanner!
Just nice to handle.
I've kept my eyes open for more over the 5 years since but never seen any.