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Stairs to loft

wesst

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Feb 28, 2010
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Brighton, MI
I currently have a pull down attic ladder to access the loft in my garage. I am thinking about installing a permanent staircase, however I am limited on space. I was thinking about flipping a stair stringer backwards, which would give me a greater rise over a shorter run, but wanted to see if anyone else has developed a similar solution.

I have used the search function, however the results are minimal.Please post pics of your current set up, and thank you in advance...
 
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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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SE Michigan
I'm working on assembling a pivoting staircase. Similar to one I saw on here courtesy of Vintage Veloce. But with a few different tweaks...no counterweight and I'm going to have drop-in insulated panels instead of the staircase being a closure to the ceiling, it will simply hang underneath it. Its not far enough along to even post pics yet, sorry but the inspirational credit you will find here:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=344480
 

dblattack

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Just cut your own stringers to what ever rise and run you want.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
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wesst

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Brighton, MI
I am leaning towards cutting my own stringers rather than flipping a prefab stringer, however I was curious if anyone has ever flipped one, or has come up with other solutions. Thanks for the replies!
 
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wesst

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Brighton, MI
Yea I will be carrying totes but nothing huge. I hues one way to look at it is the pull down attic ladder works for what I have up there, just want a more permanent solution that is more like stairs than a ladder.
 

ard

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https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6706974&postcount=20


attachment.php


Rises about 11 ft in a space of 9 feet. Not code compliant, but having a very solid footing makes it easier to navigate with loads.
 

biggziff

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Upstate NY
I had my truss package designed to allow for a 32"-36" wide staircase. Mine will be hinged so it can be stored at ceiling height (12.5') when not in use.
 

Throbbin Rods

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Lebanon, NH
I ran half my stairs along the wall of the garage beginning at the man door, did a 90 degree turn at the back wall and went to the second level. 11 feet to the second floor. I lost very little room and have solid footing to bring stuff up and it's wide enough to carry bulky things up.
 

Voi

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Western South Dakota
We're doing an alternating step ladder at our cabin. 64 degree angle, 9" rise and just under 9" tread depth.

I didn't get much sleep last night but I think the article in post #5 has some errors beyond what was pointed out. In her defense the last time I used the manual stair calculator linked in that article I had some issues with it and ended up just sketching it out and calculating the angle by hand.

I like this article better and think for a mock up the triple stringer type is more simple to build.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2000/09/01/alternating-tread-ladder-stairs

If you have left over lumber I recommend trying a triple stringer mockup, even if it doesn't go the full height. Just something with your projected angle, tread depth and unit rise to see if you like it.

If you do decide to go this route and only advantage of the cutaway type like in the link is post #5 is if you want to stop partway up and have both feet on the same level while pulling something out of the loft. Of course a partial tread could also be added to the triple stringer type if it's a necessary feature for you.
 

kbs2244

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Don't know why the 404 error

I copied it from post #2

It works from there
 

flan

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Feb 3, 2016
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Size and layout of your garage and attic may be helpful with getting suggestions. Pics would be very helpful as well!
 

TheShrine

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Texas Hill Country
Just finished my stair project. I have stairs on the exterior to the apartment but was not willing to give up the space inside the shop/lift area so......

Finally, after years of looking, found a 12 ft set of rolling stair....



Got'em home and broke them down to just the stair treads and hand rails......



The "Corner of Shame" had to be cleaned/organized......





Tied the stairs in place with a nylon rope and did not get under it!.....Sounds easier than it was!!!.....



Centered it so it would fit between the wall and the lift then I did some trimming of the upper step and screwed it to the top of a 2 X 12 for security. Now I could get under it!....





Mounted a 110 Volt winch/Hoist...I'm making this all day job seem simple but wired everything up and....



This whole "stair project" included me installing upper braces on both top ends of my 2 Post Lift. I've always over considered what was balanced on those 2 post and what wasn't. I poured more than enough foundation so I know that is sufficient but are the things I lift up and get under balanced correctly???




I wired everything. Extended the 6 ft remote control to 15 ft and was done. Anyone upstairs or downstairs can operate the stairs....if nothing is under the stairs of course!.....







 
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wesst

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Brighton, MI
I appreciate the pictures as well as the suggestions. I have attcahed a pic for reference from mid-construction process, with a red line indicated of where I would like the stairs to go. The height is 10' and the run would be about 11' on the interior wall at this end. The framing is for a window, not a door, so I do not want outside stairs. I like the style ARD built, and think I would like to do something similar.
 

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Voi

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I appreciate the pictures as well as the suggestions. I have attcahed a pic for reference from mid-construction process, with a red line indicated of where I would like the stairs to go. The height is 10' and the run would be about 11' on the interior wall at this end. The framing is for a window, not a door, so I do not want outside stairs. I like the style ARD built, and think I would like to do something similar.

Is the run 11' to the interior corner or do you mean 11' to the point where you can step on the floor and make a 90 degree turn while carrying a box?

Likewise, is the 10' the finished floor height of the loft?
 
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wesst

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The rolling stairs are perfect for my application, however they are extremely cost prohibitive since I would do the same thing and remove the “rolling” portion. I have been looking, but no luck.
 

flan

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Here is my corner set, the lower stair set hinges to horizontal so I can get the back of my pickup truck under them if that’s the only bay available.
 

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lakeroadster

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Please post pics of your current set up, and thank you in advance...

That's a lot of space up there.... :thumbup:

Are you at all concerned that your stairway will not be code compliant? If you ever sell, that could be an issue. Food for thought.

Other options: Outside stairway. This could be a covered stairway with storage space underneath.

The loft in my barn is light duty (15 psf) so I don't need access like you would a game room or an office space. I built a 98" tall stairway for access to the 10' high loft. This shortened the stairway quite a bit. You carry stuff up the stairway, set the stuff on the loft, sit on the loft, swing a round and stand up.

Rather unconventional.. but it works well. I found that after everything was re-organized, and items were stored under the stairway, that it seemed like I had more space, not less.

Good luck with your project.
 

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TheShrine

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Re: the pictures of the rolling metal stairs.

I had been looking for YEARS. and then gave up. ;)

The rolling stairs are perfect for my application, however they are extremely cost prohibitive since I would do the same thing and remove the “rolling” portion. I have been looking, but no luck.

I've been looking since '08......found mine on a FB Garage Sale site for $150.00!!!

Yeah....I know!!!
 
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R. Deschain

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Jan 7, 2016
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Seattle, Wa
Just finished my stair project. I have stairs on the exterior to the apartment but was not willing to give up the space inside the shop/lift area so......

Finally, after years of looking, found a 12 ft set of rolling stair....



You're smarter than me....
 
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wesst

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Location
Brighton, MI
It is 9’8” to the bottom chord of the truss. I would be approximately 9’ in run to permit a 90 degree turn at the bottom. I know it will not meet code, however I am looking at it as a better alternative than a pull down ladder.

The unique catch I have is the top of the stairs have to be dead center of the peak, otherwise you would hit your head on the loft ceiling. I know it’s not perfect, but I am just thrilled to have a detached garage of my own.

Again I appreciate all the responses and ideas. I have attached a pic of the final product exterior for reference. My wife’s only request was to not make it look “industrial” because all she kept hearing was pole barn.
 

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Voi

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It is 9’8” to the bottom chord of the truss. I would be approximately 9’ in run to permit a 90 degree turn at the bottom.

I think you'll be fine. Not knowing if the bottom chord of your truss is 2x4 or 2x6 or whatever I think you'd have a decent stairway even with a straight run.

To me since you need that dead space at the bottom of the stairs anyways I'd make the last few steps winders and use the full run to that sidewall. I really think you can meet code or at least come very close.

stairs%2035%20cr.jpg
 
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wesst

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Brighton, MI
I pretty much realize I won’t meet code, however I will come close. I am seeking an alternative to my current pull down ladder just because I can’t stand going up and down with totes in hand. The pull down ladder works, I just find it inconvenient at times.
 

poppinjohnnies

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Dec 10, 2014
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Kansas
I have the exact same stair set that I plan to use on my loft like you did. thanks for sharing the info and pictures!
 

ADSR

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Jan 12, 2013
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I pretty much realize I won’t meet code, however I will come close. I am seeking an alternative to my current pull down ladder just because I can’t stand going up and down with totes in hand. The pull down ladder works, I just find it inconvenient at times.

What about something like this...

2ed6aec16448e29de9763f677235e4a4.jpg
 

jmarkwolf

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Southeast Michigan
Has anyone made their stair runners fold over towards the wall to get the floor space back ?

Interesting idea.

I've got a room above both my attached and my detached garages, with permanent stairs up to each, and I made a closed in storage room underneath in both cases.

You never really "lose" the floor space, it's just "different" floor space.

I had a buddy who made a 'bosuns chair" type lift to his 2nd floor, with rickety pull down steps to get up there. I've always been glad I did what I did.
 

ms fowler

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Littlestown, PA _ 6 miles south of Gettysburg
I hinged the stairs and use a HF winch to raise and lower them. When raised, there are "J" bolts that hang down from the trusses to secure the stairs. I do not want a failure in the HF winch or cable to hit me on the head---that would probably be lethal.
 

Voi

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Western South Dakota
Has anyone made their stair runners fold over towards the wall to get the floor space back ?

In a previous thread somebody had a ladder that hinged and folded up against the wall. I wasn't able to confirm due to Photobucket issues but I believe this is the thread:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=355081

And I believe this is the exact post:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6363244&postcount=27

And I believe this is the picture being held hostage by Photobucket. I found it on Google Images and saved it. Maybe poster davejo can confirm.
 

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swade41

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Bflo,NY
I've got a great set of solid old wooden stairs that I wouldn't mind hinging to the wall. I've been moving them around while rebuilding the wall, but now the wall is finished so time for a permanent spot.
 

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