mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My panels are flush mount, so breaker-style ones were massively simpler, but I doubled up due to their smaller size
My panels are flush mount, so breaker-style ones were massively simpler, but I doubled up due to their smaller size
Eaton BR is the bottom of the line panel, which I call "Zinsco II", ABB (GE) not much better, any other panels are fine.I looked at those but for some reason I thought the Square D Homeline was more recognizable as a quality product (not that Siemens or Easton or GE of CH aren't). When I kick the bucket and my kids are selling the old man's property I feel most handy persons will recognize that.
Yeah, I did see those. In my case, I have no room above or below the panels, so it wouldn't work, but could be a great solution for many
There is an insulated option:I'm revisiting this thread as I have a question about splicing 1 AWG HXXW wire inside my main breaker enclosure.
I didn't have the forethought to have my sub panel 100a breaker installed in the first slots below the main 200a beaker so that I could install a lock such as this to power my critical loads in the home.
Interlock kit for QO
I've found simple **** splices. Would these be adequate for extending my sub panel feeds to reach from the bottom of my breakers to the top spot? These...
Alum **** splice
Thanks, I fixed the link. There seem to be a WIDE variety of prices for basically the same thing. From the one in the link for thirteen bucks to some over a hundred. I see very little difference....
Your link to the interlock kit only takes you to Homedepot.com.
I'm not 100% certain I followed post 125. Are you adding a generator inlet connected to the main panel?Thanks, I fixed the link. There seem to be a WIDE variety of prices for basically the same thing. From the one in the link for thirteen bucks to some over a hundred. I see very little difference.
I did see the insulated versions. My link shows a cheap splice that I would heat shrink some insulation around. This won't ever be inspected so as long as I do it safely I think it'll work fine.
Thanks Dave,I'm not 100% certain I followed post 125. Are you adding a generator inlet connected to the main panel?
Are you looking to move the 100A breaker for the sub to allow the generator breaker to occupy that space?
One word of caution - I try to put the heavy loads closer to the main breaker. Can you move some light loads around to make things work without splicing heavy wires?
Just remember, the interlock is the legitimate way to prevent back feeding the utility co service from your generator. To accomplish that, it must be in the main panel. Not in the sub. The point of that interlock is to make it impossible to back feed the utility. That only happens when it's is the right spot (main) panel.Thanks Dave,
I'm happy you asked those questions as I now know that my thinking is messed up. That's exactly why I am here asking questions!
There will be times I want the ability to keep both grid power running into the main panel and also to the sub panel through the 100a breaker. A locking device between the 200a and 100a will eliminate that possibility.
I have to go back to the drawing board...
Thinking out loud... maybe I should put the interlock on the sub panel 100a breaker and install a 50a DP breaker for the "generator" breaker right below that (which is actually my solar/inverter/battery bank that I am building). Ideally I want to be able to feed my off grid power to power the workshop off grid AND occasionally back to the main panel through the 100a sub panel breaker. I know I can just turn off the 200a main and accomplish that but I really wanted a locking device so that 200a won't accidently be turned on while feeding off grid. I think I saw a snap on plastic "locking" device online somewhere to do that. Lots to sort out. Thanks for the questions as I was originally leading to a failure fer sure.
Yes, I can move two SP breakers down and open a space for a DP "generator" breaker. That just seems a bit unnecessary after some thought. Though it might be better to get the 100a closer to the 200a as you mentioned.
Just remember, the interlock is the legitimate way to prevent back feeding the utility co service from your generator. To accomplish that, it must be in the main panel. Not in the sub. The point of that interlock is to make it impossible to back feed the utility. That only happens when it's is the right spot (main) panel.
If you put it in the sub panel, your generator can power the garage (everything on the sub). But a generator on an interlock on a sub can't power the main panel upstream.
this is incorrect if all of his loads that need backup gen power are in the subpanel.
That's what he wants to do.Ideally I want to be able to feed my off grid power to power the workshop off grid AND occasionally back to the main panel through the 100a sub panel breaker.
And I covered that.this is incorrect if all of his loads that need backup gen power are in the subpanel.
If you put it in the sub panel, your generator can power the garage (everything on the sub). But a generator on an interlock on a sub can't power the main panel upstream.
Gotcha. I understand the first part. I don't think I need an interlock on the sub panel. The sub panel has a 100a (probably redundant) that I can open and lock somehow to power the workshop and prevent feeding back to the house main panel. I saw a "snap on" lock but haven't found one for a main breaker. I'll have to search for that again if that idea makes sense. I understand the concept of interlocking the breakers. I'm hoping that won't be needed.Just remember, the interlock is the legitimate way to prevent back feeding the utility co service from your generator. To accomplish that, it must be in the main panel. Not in the sub. The point of that interlock is to make it impossible to back feed the utility. That only happens when it's is the right spot (main) panel.
If you put it in the sub panel, your generator can power the garage (everything on the sub). But a generator on an interlock on a sub can't power the main panel upstream.