Support electrical box?
- Thread starter polexican23
- Start date
Marctrees
Well-known member
A blocking behind it, probably 2x4 would be most common. Marc
OP
polexican23
Banned
Thats easy enough, i figured there was some fancy electrical do dad or accessory to secure them kinda like the H23 caddys used for steel framed areas.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
One of these should do the trick
https://www.erico.com/category.asp?category=R530
They aren't just used for tin stud construction
https://www.erico.com/category.asp?category=R530
They aren't just used for tin stud construction
rburke65
Well-known member
Yes....don't over think this. A 2x4" behind the box, nailed to the studs and the box screwed to the 2x4" will make it rock solid.
yeah, wood is good . BTW, why the conduit? are you not finishing the walls?
OzarkMan
Well-known member
Needs nothing if the wall covering is cut properly. The device tabs "Ears" will keep the box from shoving in let alone the device cover plate. The box has a bracket which is what it is intended for. If you really feel the need, like others mentioned a block of wood behind the box appropriately sized to fit will make it solid from flexing until the wall is complete.
D45
Well-known member
Put a 2x4 under or over it or behind, or a combo of these
Then sink some screws and be done
Then sink some screws and be done
Not always true, if the wrong depth ring is used like a 1/2" raised ring for 1/2" drywall, and/ or sloppy box cut outs in whatever the wall is to be covered in the receptacle will not secure. As to the ring depth, use one that is 1/8 inch deeper then the wall material, for example 5/8" ring for 1/2" material and 3/4" for 5/8" material.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Judging by his location, conduit is required by code. It's sort of peculiar to the Chicago area.
OP
polexican23
Banned
I am in Illinois and Crook County. Just outside of Chicago, conduit is required by code.
I will go check to see if a 2x4 will fit behind the boxes. makes the most sense.
purplezr2
Well-known member
how the **** to do you fish conduit through the wall?
GreyOwl
Well-known member
In sections with connectors. Take a close look at his pic.
wow. just wow
OP
polexican23
Banned
huge pain in the ****.Lots of obscure bends and yes, lots of junction connectors. It *****
Half inch emt is pretty springy. First hole is drilled oversize and towards the front of the stud, rest are towards the back. No problem getting a 10' section in. I've got ten foot sections of rigid conduit in my walls (house built before emt was invented). I'm pretty sure they built the walls around the pipes.
In residential construction, most work is done through the ceiling or floor, and only vertical runs in the walls. If there's an attic or basement, it's done there, but most new construction uses trusses, which provide plenty of open space for conduit. Most commerical and multi-family residential uses metal studs, which have big holes for conduit
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
Wow, I am glad I am not in Chicago.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Those boxes with brackets welded on them are pretty tough as they are.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
They're pretty tough just as they are.Looking for information on how to better support single piped boxes like this? (See pic) just afraid of plugging something in one day and basically the box shoves back and away from its position.
ard
Well-known member
I wouldn't be concerned
But you could put a 2x4 across the stud bay, like a fire block. Speaking of which....
But you could put a 2x4 across the stud bay, like a fire block. Speaking of which....
prostreetamx
Well-known member
A coworker from Chicago told me that when he did houses there that they would just precut most of the 1/2" EMT into 40" pieces. They just used lots of couplers which was faster than trying to make all the holes perfect just so you could use 10 footers. Personally I have used lots of 1/2" and 3/4" EMT in wood studs on commercial jobs. The companies were too cheap to just buy extra boxes of couplers. Personally I would use a metal spreader bar behind the 4s box if you want to firm it up. I don't want to use a block where I will be putting insulation in the future. I prefer good insulation over a space taking block of wood. Spreader bars are cheap and don't have to be cut to length in most cases.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
No ****; Interesting discussion on the unique and onerous Chicago electrical code here:
http://www.contractortalk.com/f5/regarding-chicago-code-39265/
Only when adding to a finished space. If the walls are open (or the inspector thinks they should be), it's emt. Chicago electricians get very good at bending EMT, it's impressive to watch a good crew work.
OP
polexican23
Banned
you got a pic of what you are refering too as a spreader bar? I ran into the insulation situation last night when I was trying to fit wood blocks.
prostreetamx
Well-known member
https://www.platt.com/platt-electri...Erico-Caddy/TSGB1624/product.aspx?zpid=861236
You just break them apart and one side fits inside the other. They have starter holes in them to run a self tapper into them. You just place them behind the box.
You just break them apart and one side fits inside the other. They have starter holes in them to run a self tapper into them. You just place them behind the box.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I am building my house and using emt(but not in chicago). Only have wood studs on the interior walls and am using 4x4 x 2-1/8 deep boxes like your mounted with 4 1-1/4" screws. As such I am baffled why you need extra support? Did they screw them on or just a pair of nails?
If mine are slightly skewed I have to lay in quite a bit of my 240 lbs to bend the brackets so the face is in plane with the studs. I am seriously putting over 150 lbs of force on them. The studs twist drastically while doing this and is so solid I can't imagine how one could think that any person short of the Incredible Hulk could insert a plug between their fore finger and thumb with enough pressure to move the box. You would break the receptacle first!
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If mine are slightly skewed I have to lay in quite a bit of my 240 lbs to bend the brackets so the face is in plane with the studs. I am seriously putting over 150 lbs of force on them. The studs twist drastically while doing this and is so solid I can't imagine how one could think that any person short of the Incredible Hulk could insert a plug between their fore finger and thumb with enough pressure to move the box. You would break the receptacle first!
View media item 71628
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75gmck25
Well-known member
My house was built in 1940 and it has plaster walls with rock-lathe as a base layer. Every metal receptacle box is nailed to a 2x4 on one side, and then there is a very stiff metal spreader bar that runs over to the next stud for support. I guess they needed that much support to keep the boxes in place when they put on the plaster coats.
However, it makes it hard to replace the old small capacity metal boxes, since the metal on the nailing brackets and spreader bar is so thick. By the time I cut through them with a sawzall the vibration usually puts a bigger hole in the plaster than I really want.
Bruce
However, it makes it hard to replace the old small capacity metal boxes, since the metal on the nailing brackets and spreader bar is so thick. By the time I cut through them with a sawzall the vibration usually puts a bigger hole in the plaster than I really want.
Bruce
Where are you going to buy BX (AC)? What the big box stores sell is Metal Clad, MC. Edit: The areas requiring EMT limit the use of flexible wiring methods.
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OP
polexican23
Banned
It is for the single run boxes, the one you posted has 3 lines coming in. The single runs have less support (according to inspector). Basically what i have found is that they refer to stuff like this as Far Side support.
ard
Well-known member
I feel like your inspector likes to just make **** up to make himself feel smart...
Marctrees
Well-known member
30 posts about what is everyday handled w a common 2x4 block behind box? ? ? ?
Buying a steel box support ? ? ?
Why ?? NO benefit, actually not as sturdy as wood block and a few screws in real life.
Marc
Buying a steel box support ? ? ?
Why ?? NO benefit, actually not as sturdy as wood block and a few screws in real life.
Marc
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Not much in the last three code revisions about safety.
OP
polexican23
Banned
my town is going off the 2015 as far as I know.
barnjunkie
Well-known member
The city officials must be concerned about safety and well being of the citizens there, I'm sure. They will waste their time arguing about something over and above their own adoption of code while the city turns into a third world ghetto.
Illinois is bankrupt according to the news girl. I drove north to Chicago the other day and the total negligence to the roadway system was amazing. Paid $18.50 in tolls to drive on the most dilapidated roadways in America. They are not too concerned about that too much though.
Illinois is bankrupt according to the news girl. I drove north to Chicago the other day and the total negligence to the roadway system was amazing. Paid $18.50 in tolls to drive on the most dilapidated roadways in America. They are not too concerned about that too much though.
2Big2Ride
Well-known member
I used similar styled metal boxes, mud plates with MC for our shop. Boxes mounted to a wood stud with no additional support. Yes, the finished boxes have some deflection when you plug something in to the receptacle. I have a few boxes with EMT in the wall so that I could change wiring for a dedicated tool if needed - the connection to EMT makes the box firmer. Do I wish the boxes were more stable? Yes. But, weigh that with time, effort, and potentially insulation capacity and I will live with our wiggle boxes.
OP
polexican23
Banned
This is what I used and it worked fine (meaning inspector leaving me alone now). thanks for all your help, input and opinions.
toplessHO
Well-known member
tip for those using wood blocking.
if the box is plumb level square
put the screws in the box first
then screw the blocking to studs while holding box and support block.
if the box is plumb level square
put the screws in the box first
then screw the blocking to studs while holding box and support block.
Zeke
Well-known member
Yeah, a couple of truss head screws and call it a day.