The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread
- Thread starter OccupantRJ
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OccupantRJ
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For me, that would be about a $150-200 purchase, if I needed a cabinet. It is easier to restore than build one. Still need the blower to purge the cabinet unless it is with it.
I'm going to check this one out in the morning. No data tags.
The cabinet has good bones, and the steel is 3/16". It funnels down and to the left, not sure it that's a plus, I would bet it's shop made.
The cabinet has good bones, and the steel is 3/16". It funnels down and to the left, not sure it that's a plus, I would bet it's shop made.
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OccupantRJ
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I bet it is shop made also, especislly if it is 3/16" thick. Someone thinking decided to offset the hopper to make media changes easier in my opinion.
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Of course, air is usually required for abrasive blasting, so here is a thread on the Volksair compressor engine conversion.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32377
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32377
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Blast cabinet replacement viewing window thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329548
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329548
dkmc
Well-known member
My buddy in Anderson SC lives a few miles from the company.
Interesting, but I'm not sure how well they've caught on ever.
Wonder how many they sold over the years.
55-60 CFM is minimal for productive sandblasting.
What would be the main reason to buy a pressure cabinet setup?
flyingw
Well-known member
For the raw power over the syphon type. I have a pressure cabinet and I will admit, it spoils me. A syphon cabinet is fine but for brute power for stripping old paint and corrosion, nothing beats the pressure cabinet.
dkmc
Well-known member
Siphon gun introduces the blast media 1-2" from the tip of the gun.
Pressure pot introduces the media Waaaaay back down the hose at the
mixing Tee.
Media has much more time to accelerate up to the velocity of the air in the
pressure pot design, and is thus much more efficient as the media impacts
the work much harder for a given working air pressure VS the siphon gun.
OP
OccupantRJ
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Excellent explanation!
OP
OccupantRJ
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dkmc
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dkmc
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My Trinco blast Cabinet/Abrasive Separator Rant thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5793707#post5793707
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5793707#post5793707
Trey T
Well-known member
looks like a good place to buy parts to improve your HF blast cabinet if you want to piece together like a kit sold by Tacoma Company (see youtube) which is $400.
http://www.idsblast.com/sandblasting-supplies/713
http://www.idsblast.com/sandblasting-supplies/713
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Some good tech info is being discussed in the thread linked above.
OP
OccupantRJ
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OP
OccupantRJ
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dkmc
Well-known member
So RJ, have you gotten the Smith compressor into shape now?
What are you doing for water separation/control?
Gonna be doing some sand blasting on the utility trailer.
Gotta get some 3/4" hose to run my buddies pressure pot that's been here a couple years now. Have to dig out the (electric) 20HP Worthington Monorotor compressor next couple weeks.
I think I should plumb in at least a small tank to it, and then.....WHAT to do about the water problem I -know- I am going to have??
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
The compressor is one of several projects in progress. I promised my wife a sunroom with a jacuzzi, so i just poured the foundation for that today. I did get the powdercoating off one wheel, painted it, and put a new tire on.
I blasted with a 75 cfm and pressure pot years ago before I knew what I know now, and don't remember having moisture problems. I guess ignorance is bliss. A drop out tank may do what you need to reduce moisture, not sure. Might also try a franzinator.
I bought my 3/4 x 25 foot hose from Amazon for about $50. My blast hose, nozzle, and some fittings came from Blue Dog Blasting out of Sanford NC. It is also Rodeco company, a supplier of blast cabinet parts and supplies.
I blasted with a 75 cfm and pressure pot years ago before I knew what I know now, and don't remember having moisture problems. I guess ignorance is bliss. A drop out tank may do what you need to reduce moisture, not sure. Might also try a franzinator.
I bought my 3/4 x 25 foot hose from Amazon for about $50. My blast hose, nozzle, and some fittings came from Blue Dog Blasting out of Sanford NC. It is also Rodeco company, a supplier of blast cabinet parts and supplies.
dkmc
Well-known member
Major points scored with the Jacuzzi I am sure!
Yes, good prices on the larger hoses on Amazon.
That is where I will get it.
Might look into a hood as well.
I think the white Tyvek suits are pretty cheap and work well also.
A Fraizinator may be in the works if water becomes a problem.
I have some pipe here to make a large one out of.
Blue Dog has some interesting hardware, valves, and such.
Yes, good prices on the larger hoses on Amazon.
That is where I will get it.
Might look into a hood as well.
I think the white Tyvek suits are pretty cheap and work well also.
A Fraizinator may be in the works if water becomes a problem.
I have some pipe here to make a large one out of.
Blue Dog has some interesting hardware, valves, and such.
dkmc
Well-known member
Here is an old Pangborn cabinet that a buddy gave me years ago.
I just literally dug it out of the weeds the other day and had a look
at it. I would like to get it functioning. Be nice to make it a pressure
type instead of siphon.
The outside dimensions are:
36" deep
5ft wide
36" high
There are some funky obstructions above the window, some sort of baffling or something
I have to investigate further, as it really seems to limit the height of what you can put in there.
It has a serial number but no model number.
I imagine Gloves to fit those openings are a bit pricey!!
I just literally dug it out of the weeds the other day and had a look
at it. I would like to get it functioning. Be nice to make it a pressure
type instead of siphon.
The outside dimensions are:
36" deep
5ft wide
36" high
There are some funky obstructions above the window, some sort of baffling or something
I have to investigate further, as it really seems to limit the height of what you can put in there.
It has a serial number but no model number.
I imagine Gloves to fit those openings are a bit pricey!!
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OccupantRJ
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Interesting design. Gloves are available in various cuff diameters and glove lengths. Measure around the collar and divide by pi to get cuff diameter that would be required. An alternate would be to make an oval adapter plate with a round collar to fit an easily available glove. Interesting how the area where one would have to place his head is rusty. Must be from sweaty hair contact or maybe the old hair tonics of years gone by.
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dkmc
Well-known member
I looked at it a bit more closely inside, and it's obvious now.
The "bump in" that the window is set into seriously encroaches on the
interior space. I'm trying to make sense of why the window needs to be
set in and on an angle like it is. I can't see why it couldn't be just flat with the front of the cabinet. In other words, cut out the metal that constitutes the "bump out" and make the window flat with the front of the cabinet.
This is just an idea and observations at this point, I'm not going after it with the plasma just yet. There may be some good reason it's built the way it is, and I'm not seeing it right now.
I did call Pangborn Friday. They told me it was built in 1966.
The "bump in" that the window is set into seriously encroaches on the
interior space. I'm trying to make sense of why the window needs to be
set in and on an angle like it is. I can't see why it couldn't be just flat with the front of the cabinet. In other words, cut out the metal that constitutes the "bump out" and make the window flat with the front of the cabinet.
This is just an idea and observations at this point, I'm not going after it with the plasma just yet. There may be some good reason it's built the way it is, and I'm not seeing it right now.
I did call Pangborn Friday. They told me it was built in 1966.
That Pangborn cabinet is an interesting design.
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
The front needs to be sloped in general to allow one to look downward at an angle to see what you are blasting. Why they chose to just slope that small area is beyond me. Ear plugs would be a requirement with that cabinet, as your ears are between essentially two drum heads with the noise of blasting.
dkmc
Well-known member
Good point RJ.
Seems cumbersome to use with that small window doesn't it?
I'll be taking out the old window and cleaning out the inside of the cabinet
to get a look at the viewing angles, etc. Maybe it's more well thought out
than it seems. Still that window "bump in" restricts the room inside the cabinet, which seems like a major drawback.
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
There are plenty of longer odd shaped objects to be blasted. The unusual shape may allow more versatility in getting things turned and twisted just right. Yesterday I blasted a slightly rusty crawl space door frame I had to cut down in height, and even in my large cabinet had to take it out and turn it around in different ways four times to get to all the nooks and crannies.
Also, that style door system is usually used on a pass through system where conveyors on each side are employed to load and unload parts, and they usually have a turntable in the cabinet to allow getting all around an object. Does the cabinet have any signs of a track system in it?
Also, that style door system is usually used on a pass through system where conveyors on each side are employed to load and unload parts, and they usually have a turntable in the cabinet to allow getting all around an object. Does the cabinet have any signs of a track system in it?
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dkmc
Well-known member
A couple interior pictures of the Pangborn cabinet.
Looking thru the glove holes, it seems like the window does afford good
visibility of the interior. More so than I thought.
However not only does the window "bump in" eat up interior space, but there's also a "box" on the upper back wall that constricts the inside area.
The box is some sort of baffle for dust extraction I think.
And, yes, RJ, there are angle iron rails and even what's left of a cart inside, as is vizable in the pictures. So much debris inside I haven't focused before on what all is in there. Time for a clean out!
The picture on the left with the lighter tan rust shows the "bump ins".
Left side is the window, upper right side is the dust baffle.
Other picture is the work area complete with rails, work cart, some spare parts, rotted gloves, old bees nests (hopefully not occupied) and a ton of other debris.
This cabinet I think was a "sand pot" and I think the media just stayed in the bottom with the dust being drawn off. I don't think it was ever set up as a reclaimer unit. I could be wrong!
Looking thru the glove holes, it seems like the window does afford good
visibility of the interior. More so than I thought.
However not only does the window "bump in" eat up interior space, but there's also a "box" on the upper back wall that constricts the inside area.
The box is some sort of baffle for dust extraction I think.
And, yes, RJ, there are angle iron rails and even what's left of a cart inside, as is vizable in the pictures. So much debris inside I haven't focused before on what all is in there. Time for a clean out!
The picture on the left with the lighter tan rust shows the "bump ins".
Left side is the window, upper right side is the dust baffle.
Other picture is the work area complete with rails, work cart, some spare parts, rotted gloves, old bees nests (hopefully not occupied) and a ton of other debris.
This cabinet I think was a "sand pot" and I think the media just stayed in the bottom with the dust being drawn off. I don't think it was ever set up as a reclaimer unit. I could be wrong!
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dkmc
Well-known member
I dunno, these Empire cabinets have the window set flush.
http://products.empire-airblast.com/viewitems/blast-cabinets/fastrip-blast-cabinets?
The front of the cabinet is slopped back very slightly, but not much.
Still makes me want to take the plasma to the Pangborn cabinet and cut out
the bump-in sheet metal, and install a flush window to get maximum
interior real estate. With some extra work, it could "bump in" a small ammount,
like an inch at the top maybe....IF that really improves the view.
I'm also guessing if the interior lighting was better, that would help a lot also.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
That cabinet is definately an industrial level cabinet. The floor plate is like mine and appears to be about 1/4" thick. I had a casting in my cabinet that was so heavy it had to be loaded with the forklift.
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OccupantRJ
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dkmc
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Nice to be able to fit parts that size inside a cabinet RJ.
Looks like a very complete rebuild of a BP mill.
I should probably start a separate thread on the Pangborn cabinet and
leave this thread to listing the other threads as a directory, as you have done.
Looks like a very complete rebuild of a BP mill.
I should probably start a separate thread on the Pangborn cabinet and
leave this thread to listing the other threads as a directory, as you have done.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
If you do be sure to link it here please, so others can find it easily.
sberry
Banned
No comment about equipment but sand and steel in general. Use a hard coarse sharp sand on paint and coatings and a fine soft more like beach for rust to penetrate the pits. Sand is graded at a plant by grit like sandpaper. .
dkmc
Well-known member
Here's the link to the thread where we want to see pictures of your Abrasive Blasting
setups, equipment, compressors, troubleshooting, methods, best practices, etc.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5846591&posted=1#post5846591
setups, equipment, compressors, troubleshooting, methods, best practices, etc.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5846591&posted=1#post5846591
OP
OccupantRJ
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Bellaireroad
Well-known member
Just picked up a snap on YA 3825.... The pickup tube is a single tube... Was thinking of replacing this with a dual pickup tube from TP tools. Is this a useful performance upgrade?
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
A key element in the performance of a suction gun is to introduce the grit in a regulated manner to the air stream. When there is not enough air flow relative to grit available, starving or pulsing results in the output.
Any way you can keep this airstream flowing as grit is slowly introduced is usually beneficial. A single suction tube jammed into a container of sand likely is not the optimum setup. The dual tube introduces ambient air at the suction point, so there should be some performance improvement.
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Snap-on vs TP tools blast cabinet comparison thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=338659
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=338659