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The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread

metlmunchr

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Sep 10, 2011
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Hey Dan. Got pretty much burned out "over there" with the ever increasing number of clowns with no knowledge of the trade who just come to roost and blow their political **** and general idiocy into way too many threads. Used to be, hands down, the best forum on the net for its intended purpose, but the noise ratio just got too high to make it worth the time.
 
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dkmc

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I hear ya Cliff. I also got tired of it and cut back on participation like a lot of others. Lucky for the GJ members, you came here with a ton of knowledge to share.

Hey Dan. Got pretty much burned out "over there" with the ever increasing number of clowns with no knowledge of the trade who just come to roost and blow their political **** and general idiocy into way too many threads. Used to be, hands down, the best forum on the net for its intended purpose, but the noise ratio just got too high to make it worth the time.
 

250

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Oct 16, 2014
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West of the Sierras
I went looking to replace my glass bead media and while I originally got my media from TP tools, the shipping to the west coast makes it a less desirable option.

Anyone have any knowledge of HD's Black Bull #80 glass beads? Some reviews say its crushed glass not beads.

Thanks,
 

250

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I saw those in my internet searching. Only real down side to the Harbor Freight, is while neither are local to me anymore, HD has free shipping if I picked up two.
 

AllThingsOld

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The beads I got from harbor freight turned out to be more like crushed glass and it’s really dusty. Not sure what your application is, but you can order actual glass beads from Tacoma Company on ebay and they are on the west coast
 

AllThingsOld

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My upgraded harbor freight cabinet works better than I ever thought it could, amazing difference, although I have an unbelievable amount of time in it, at this point, but it was well worth it. I am using glass abrasive to strip finish off of carbon steel, now I need a second stage blast media that will give me a much smoother finish. Here is what I started with and this was done with just crushed glass at 60 pounds. What will give me a smoother finish ? Lower pressure with glass beads ? What size beads ?
 

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clubairth

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You might check out Northern Tool. I got 50# bags crushed glass on sale for under $9/bag.
Oops! They no longer carry Clean Bite the crushed glass version.
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drummerdimitri

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May 31, 2012
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Location
Beirut, Lebanon
Guys I'd like to sandblast at home but I can't find any of the media blasting supplies mentioned in this thread in my local hardware stores as it's not that popular where I live it seems.

I bought some abrasive that appears to be black sand and apparantly it is used on stair steps for additional grip but it is not mentioned on the label what the composition of the item is. Could this just be black sand which produces silica dust? If so, how can I protect myself from said dust? Will I need a special type of mask?

Not willing to take the risk so if it's not safe, I will keep looking for alternatives.

<a href="https://ibb.co/WKD1dqW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/WKD1dqW/20200407-015741.jpg" alt="20200407-015741" border="0"></a>
 

drummerdimitri

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Beirut, Lebanon
Beirut, Lebanon.

How do I add that so that people don't keep asking me that question?

I selected my country flag but it didn't seem to do anything.
 

cclfn

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Not willing to take the risk so if it's not safe, I will keep looking for alternatives.

<a href="https://ibb.co/WKD1dqW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/WKD1dqW/20200407-015741.jpg" alt="20200407-015741" border="0"></a>

You should take a look at these. Pricey but I set one up in the garage and so far love it. No dust, no heat, and much less aggressive than sand blasting.

 

AllThingsOld

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Nov 12, 2019
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If you really want an amazingly smooth and even shiny finish, go check into Vapor Blasting.

I didn’t even know this existed... I did find a thread where the guy turns a cabinet like mine into a vapor cabinet. I am going to try some other media’s, Although the vapor blasting results are unreal.
 

mike528

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Dec 20, 2014
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503
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Shelby county Ohio
Initially my thought for purchasing this blast cabinet is that it would help me in the refinishing of carbon and stainless golf putters. I started off refinishing 1, than 2 and so on. The issue I had was the amount of handwork required in order to get the steel prepped for whatever finish I decided to go with. So being absolutely clueless about media blasting, I purchased an 8 gallon compressor and harbor freight bench top cabinet. Before I even get that cabinet out of the box, I realize it’s never going to operate properly and the 8 gallon compressor isn’t ever going to work. So I step up to the larger cabinet and buy a 30 gallon compressor.... Again, the compressor is way to small and the cabinet absolutely *****.. So once again, I go back to the drawing board. I pull the cabinet completely apart, do a ton of research online, find a 60 gallon compressor that ends up having a bad motor. I wire my garage for 240, with a ton of help with the guys in this forum, I get a new motor, wire it up, again with a ton of help from guys here. I know this isn’t anywhere close to being perfect, but for a guy with absolutely zero experience in wiring anything and zero experience setting up a cabinet, I think it came out great, of course it depends on how it runs, which I will find out in about 2 hours. This was done on a shoestring budget also, young family and not a lot of money. But I thought this may help someone similar to myself.

which blast gun did you use? i have the hf cabinet and plan on starting a few upgrades now that i have all of this free time and not sure how much longer it will last.
 

930dreamer

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I received the document for the dust bag to cartridge filter conversion but forgot to post it here. Time for me to get to work on this.

VISTA INDUSTRIAL EQUIPMENT

TECHNOLOGY & SUPPLY LLC

e-mail: [email protected]

website: www.VistaIndustrial-LLC.com

11943 Front Street Voice: 562.426.2107

Norwalk, CA 90650-2900 FAX: 562.426.9848

Specializing in MRO of Grit Blast Rooms & Systems

CONVERTING A CYCLO*BLAST GLOVEBOX BLASTER

FROM DUST BAGS TO FILTER CARTRIDGE(S)

Items required:

>3/16” steel plate, as described below

>an air reservoir (tank) no smaller than 10” diameter x 30” long

>(2) diaphragm pulse valves (McMaster-Carr 5496T11)

>(2) Humphrey TAC 3P pushbutton actuators

>(2) 3/8” x 36” all-thread

>(2) 12” lengths of ¼” steel round bar

>3/4” hose, pipe & fittings to connect the air reservoir to the pulse valves

>(2) 19215-C Filter Cartridges

First, remove all dust bags from the dust bag frame and thoroughly clean the inside of the baghouse enclosure. Welding may be required, and abrasive dust is explosive.

Remove the bag-rapping mechanism and seal all holes in the enclosure. Set the dust tray aside for later use.

Measure & cut the 3/16” steel plate to fit the angle-iron dust bag frame. Cut (2) 6” diameter holes in the plate, equally spaced to accommodate the filter cartridges, then secure the steel plate into the angle-iron frame. This plate is called the tubesheet, and the cartridges will seal up against it.

Standard dust collector filter cartridges are 12-3/4” OD x 8-1/4” ID x 26” L, with an open top & small hole at the bottom for the J-bolt. Once installed, (2) cartridges will ventilate this glovebox much better than the (40) dust bags currently in it.

The air reservoir can be anything handy, a scuba tank, welding gas cylinder, etc. It will already have an inlet (usually on one end), but what it now requires are (2) outlets. These can be made by sawing a ¾” x 6” pipe ****** in half. Each half should then be welded to the side of the reservoir. But wait to do this until after you hang the cartridges.

The (2) 12” lengths of ¼” steel round bar should be tacked across the middle of the 6” holes in the tubesheet. After securing them, use a small sledge & chisel to tap downward in the exact middle of the bar, creating a “notch” that will center the J-bolt when it is tightened.

The (2) 3/8” x 36” all threads should be bent into a “J” on one end, tightly enough to fit snugly over & into the “notch” on the ¼” round bar. You now have hangers for the cartridges, so hang them up. Getting the end of the J-bolt into the hole at the bottom of

the cartridge is not easy, but keep at it until the cartridges are secure against the tubesheet.

To provide air to the reservoir, install a tee in front of the ball valve on the piping manifold of the machine. Connect an air hose (minimum ½”) from this tee to the inlet on the reservoir. Make sure you are upstream of the on-off ball valve so that the reservoir will stay pressurized even when not sandblasting.

Now it’s time to position the air reservoir and install the (2) outlets. It appears from the pictures that the reservoir can be positioned laterally on top of the glovebox section, with the inlet on the LH facing end for connection to the air line from the tee. Now you weld the (2) 3” half-******* to the reservoir, taking care that there is clearance for the reservoir itself, as well as the incoming air hose and the (2) outgoing air hoses.

The pulse valves should be installed on the top of the back wall of the former baghouse. There will be air hoses from the reservoir to the pulse valves, and ¾” piping from the pulse valves to the cartridges. The pulse valves have directional arrows; make sure the air from the reservoir is piped according to these arrows!

Measure the distance from the pulse valves to the center of the cartridges. ¾” piping will extend inward from the pulse valves and should stop near the center of each cartridge. To the end of each pipe, attach a ¾” 90-degree elbow and a ¾” x 3/8” hex reducer, pointing downward into the cartridge. Insert a 3/8” x 6” ****** into the hex reducer.

Once the pulse valves, hoses & piping have been installed, screw the pushbutton actuators into the 1/8” ports on the pulse valves.

When testing the system for the first time, sloooowly open the air line to the reservoir. Check for air leaks. Other than the sound of the air pressuring the reservoir, there should be no leaks.

With the reservoir pressurized, push one of the actuators. There should a loud bang as the pulse valve releases the contents of the reservoir into the cartridge.

Congratulations! You now have a reverse-pulse filter cartridge cleaning system.

For actual use, at the end of each blasting session, turn off the electrical and let the blower motor spin downà this can take a full minute on some motors. Once the motor is off & still, push the actuators 3-4 times each, waiting until the reservoir refills between each push.

Do this & walk away. The next time the machine is used, before you turn on the air, before you turn on the electrical, EMPTY THE DUST TRAY!! If you don’t, as soon as you turn on the blower motor, air will enter the enclosure, pick up the dust on the tray & put it right back onto the cartridges. This called re-depositing, and it completely nullifies what you did to get the dust out of the cartridges. So pulse those valves good….and get rid of the dust the next day.
 
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clubairth

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Dec 24, 2014
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263
Had not seen this posted and I guess it depends on how many hours you actually use the blaster.

I often get holes in my gloves and had been replacing them. Sometimes from wear but I also get them cut by sharp metal edges.

After some thought I have a money saving solution. These can be repaired very well by using a vinyl swimming pool repair kit. This stuff is tough and can even be applied under water!

I tried a waterbed repair kit with limited results. I have done about 5 repairs now and probably saved the cost of 2 or more replacement gloves.
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restorick

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Mar 6, 2008
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72
Location
SE Wisconsin
Just purchased this Trinco 36. About 10 years old. Gent selling it has sold Trinco for a good number of years through his business. Machine was refurbed with a new Trinco gun, new floor and hoses, new paint, new glass and vac bag. Will pick it up in a week or so after I finish up reorganizing my shop area. $700 and I'm all giggly.
 

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restorick

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@restorick that's an awesome deal! Congrats!

Thanks RacerX! I had been going back and forth on getting a cheap cabinet and modding it, but by the time I did I have matched the quality of this cabinet and the vac system. I was surprised how heavy this was up close. It may not be as large as I'd prefer, but if I need the occasional oversize piece, I have access to a strong pot plaster outdoors.

Shop is coming along nicely and this baby will help round it out!

Rick
 

dkmc

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Two Quincy QGS 10 D that need rebuilt on FB near me $1250 for the pair.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/972550439867491/

I always find it humorous when the seller mentions the "new" price. He's already said in the ad they need to be rebuilt. Obviously the new price is irrelevant at this point, as these are not new, and new would include "New Condition" as well as a warranty. Similar to the car, tractor, and boat? ads that say "great condition, needs engine".

:lol_hitti

:shocking:
 
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930dreamer

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I see this is down to $800, what's wrong with me as I can't stop looking at air compressors.:headscrat
 

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4EyedTurd

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Oct 3, 2009
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595
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Texas
The great thing about blasting is you find the weak point in your air supply. Now it’s on to alleviate moisture
 

dkmc

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Jan 20, 2008
Messages
948
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NYS--Upstate in the corn fields
OK, complaint department:
I just installed a pair of replacement rubber gloves on the small Trinco, maybe about 7-8 months ago. Not many hours of run time since (less than 8) and now the left glove is gooey in the thumb and index finger. Like the rubber's turning into liquid. Some of the goo even stuck to my fingers. I wonder what causes the rubber to break down like that at only 8 months use. I'm careful to have clean hands when I put them in the gloves. I guess I'll google it for kicks.
 

dkmc

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Jan 20, 2008
Messages
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Location
NYS--Upstate in the corn fields
This thread seems unusually quiet this year. Hope the pandemic hasn't shut down everyone's blasting projects. I'm trying to hook up a cyclone after my media separator on the Trinco cabinet. Progress is slow.
 
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