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The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread

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OccupantRJ

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Dkmc, I have been busy as a cat with diarreah in a sandbox. I finished up my Bridgeport refurb project and started on a John Deere 318 garden tractor I acquired at a good deal. After I bought it, the guy turned around and gave me a 1969 Honda 305 Dream motorcycle, so I came home with TWO projects.

I am holed up in my shop with the central AC on as usual, so not a lot different for me socially. I stay in contact with other shop heads all through the day with pictures and texts. I have blasted about an hour every day for the last couple of months. I switch the compressors to equalize heat recovery time. I had previously installed a thermostatically controlled through-the-wall vent fan in my compressor room to pull heat out, and it has paid off nicely.

I have completed the automotive flywheel grinder project. I think the Husqvarna orange guards go well with the grey machine. I have quite a few in progress project pics, just don’t slow down enough to post them lately.
Hope all is well with all the rest of you guys.
 

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OccupantRJ

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The grinder started out like this. Blasting cabinets are a necessity for me.
 

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OccupantRJ

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You know you are serious when you have to use a forklift to load a 218 pound Bridgeport ram casting into the blast cabinet. Thankfully that cabinet has a nicely supported 1/4” thick perforated steel floor inside. My son in the next pic using the cabinet.
 

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dkmc

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RJ.......WOW! You have been busy indeed. The grinder looks fantastic, the orange goes very well for sure! Thanks for the update, and the pics. Some interesting projects you have in process. Keeping a low profile in my shop as well, and staying away from the 'masses' as much as possible.
 

sjg56k

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This is my first post here. I cabinet blast a lot of scale off of steel parts and I wanted to show an idea I did to my HF blast cabinet. It is a diy foot valve mounted to my cabinet and I actuate it with my right knee. Works slick and easy to do. This is a pic of the idea. vlcsnap-00074.jpg I also made a vid on you tube if you search for blast cabinet knee valve. Just trying to make garage life even more enjoyable than it already is. :)
 

930dreamer

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2 - large air compressors - $1200
 

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930dreamer

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Always looking to buy. I really like this set up Kellogg American 452.;
 

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555

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Dkmc, I have been busy as a cat with diarreah in a sandbox. I finished up my Bridgeport refurb project and started on a John Deere 318 garden tractor I acquired at a good deal. After I bought it, the guy turned around and gave me a 1969 Honda 305 Dream motorcycle, so I came home with TWO projects.

I am holed up in my shop with the central AC on as usual, so not a lot different for me socially. I stay in contact with other shop heads all through the day with pictures and texts. I have blasted about an hour every day for the last couple of months. I switch the compressors to equalize heat recovery time. I had previously installed a thermostatically controlled through-the-wall vent fan in my compressor room to pull heat out, and it has paid off nicely.

I have completed the automotive flywheel grinder project. I think the Husqvarna orange guards go well with the grey machine. I have quite a few in progress project pics, just don’t slow down enough to post them lately.
Hope all is well with all the rest of you guys.

Nice Dream project!
 

Mr onetwo

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Good morning all, I am going to pick up a TP Tools Skat Cat 46 cabinet this weekend and have a couple of questions.This cabinet comes with a 100cfm vacuum but I have found a 2 HP Delta collector head rated at 1100cfm.I have a TiP 99er pressure pot that I seldom ever use and I think I am going to use it to convert the cabinet over to pressure blasting.My question is should I use a TP Tools reclaimer unit or a 5" Super Dust Deputy from Oneida?I think I may cut a slot directly over the window for an air inlet to wash the window down during operation.Your advise is appreciated.I will start a new thread when I get it home and set up.Thanks:bowdown:
 

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dkmc

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I'm sorry did you have a question? I was distracted by your Avitar....
:eyecrazy:

Anyway, I will say you will need to either vent the reclaimer output outside or run it into a filter of some sort. I'm setting up a Trinco cabinet that had a sock type filter on the reclaimer outlet. Very restrictive, and not enough suction to pull the media out of the cabinet bottom. Now I'm going with an Escarga cyclone after the reclaimer, then a big 12"OD x 26" long cartridge filter after the cyclone. The cyclone gets a lot of the fine dust and helps keep the filter cleaner longer but a percentage of the super fine dust gets by the cyclone, thus the need for the filter......
 
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OccupantRJ

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My large cabinet vents after the filter baghouse through the wall of my shop via a 4 inch outlet from the blower. The smaller cabinet uses a filter bag after the blower, inside the room. The large cabinet outlet can be seen here in the pic of my son using the large blast cabinet. It leaves the blower and goes through the wall. It has a flex duct to the wall port to allow the cabinet to be swung out for service.
 

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Mr onetwo

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I'm just trying to determine if the reclaimer is worth having. A couple of questions for you guys...
dkmc....how effective does the re-claimer seem to be?
RJ....how much dust gets discharged outside from the big cabinet?
Thanks for your help!
 

Mr onetwo

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Another question...has anyone here converted from suction to pressure fed in their cabinet and how much better does it work?
 

dkmc

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I've been testing the Trinco reclaimer with a mixture of new media and totally pulverized media that's about as fine as talc. I shake it into the cabinet from a plastic cup. I'm impressed how good the reclaimer separates out the good media and lets the talc pass thru to the dust cyclone.

The easiest way to think about siphon vs pressure is the abrasive path thru the system. In a siphon gun, the abrasive is introduced in the back of the gun and has maybe an inch or 2 distance for the air to accelerate the abrasive before it goes out the nozzle. Naturally, there is a lot of 'slip' in the design, and the abrasive doesn't reach the full speed of the airflow.

In a pressure pot, the abrasive goes into the air stream at the bottom of the pot. Then it has the entire length of the blast hose to accelerate up to air speed or 'hook up' with the air's velocity. The pressure pot system is way more efficient and uses much less air to do an equivalent amount of work.
 
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PierceA

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Hello everyone. I searched for 'glass protector' and for 'window protector' and 'window screen'. And got zero hits.
What do you use to protect the inside surface of the view window in your blast cabinets from becoming blasted and soon becoming opaque? I find I do most of my blasting 'by feel' since I cannot see through the window any longer.
The cabinet had at one time some layers of plastic that you removed as each layer became dulled/opaque. BUT they do not last very long, often just 15-20 minutes.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.. I do have a good dust collector pulling dust from the cabinet, which helps with visibility, but the glass window becoming opaque is a real problem.

Thanks. PierceA
 

dkmc

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I should have been more specific.I mean in their design and build.Can a dust deputy, ect function as a reclaimer?

Thats possible, but they are plastic. Might have a short life? And might need modifications and "tuning". The reclaimer separates out good abrasive but lets spent, pulverized abrasive as well as dirt, rust particles, paint chips, etc. pass on to the dust filter. A DD right after the cabinet will catch everything and not separate the good media I'd think.
 

dkmc

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Window screen in a frame stood off the inside of the glass about 1"


Hello everyone. I searched for 'glass protector' and for 'window protector' and 'window screen'. And got zero hits.
What do you use to protect the inside surface of the view window in your blast cabinets from becoming blasted and soon becoming opaque? I find I do most of my blasting 'by feel' since I cannot see through the window any longer.
The cabinet had at one time some layers of plastic that you removed as each layer became dulled/opaque. BUT they do not last very long, often just 15-20 minutes.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.. I do have a good dust collector pulling dust from the cabinet, which helps with visibility, but the glass window becoming opaque is a real problem.

Thanks. PierceA
 

shortykorte

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I know there’s tear off film for off-road racers. Using window screen is an interesting idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
 

Jswain

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Hello everyone. I searched for 'glass protector' and for 'window protector' and 'window screen'. And got zero hits.
What do you use to protect the inside surface of the view window in your blast cabinets from becoming blasted and soon becoming opaque? I find I do most of my blasting 'by feel' since I cannot see through the window any longer.
The cabinet had at one time some layers of plastic that you removed as each layer became dulled/opaque. BUT they do not last very long, often just 15-20 minutes.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.. I do have a good dust collector pulling dust from the cabinet, which helps with visibility, but the glass window becoming opaque is a real problem.

Thanks. PierceA


Same problem as everyone else, I started by taking out the plexiglass and polishing it when it became dull but that gets old as its dull after less than an hour of blasting and sometimes im at it for 6-8 hours. I did not want to purchase glass panels and have to keep a stock of them.

Ended up making a wooden frame and epoxying magnets to that, then attaching metal window screen and painting the whole unit flat black, then it just sticks inside the cabinet underneath the tempered glass by 3/4". Some people say when you do this you lose contrast so you must have good lights so at the same time I installed 2 36w 4" led fog lights in the front corners facing the work.

I honestly havent got to use it much since I've just put it in but the clarity with the lights & nothing but crystal clear glass is very nice & it is tool free to pull down the screen and clean the glass when it gets dusty

For the lights I bought a strip of 3m clear bra off amazon for $10 and cut strips to fit, enough to cover them 20x each

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2zTrexCR2VQAi4w6
 
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Mr onetwo

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Thats possible, but they are plastic. Might have a short life? And might need modifications and "tuning". The reclaimer separates out good abrasive but lets spent, pulverized abrasive as well as dirt, rust particles, paint chips, etc. pass on to the dust filter. A DD right after the cabinet will catch everything and not separate the good media I'd think.
I was thinking about one of the metal ones on Ebay...I think I will message him and see what he says.
 
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OccupantRJ

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I'm just trying to determine if the reclaimer is worth having. A couple of questions for you guys...
dkmc....how effective does the re-claimer seem to be?
RJ....how much dust gets discharged outside from the big cabinet?
Thanks for your help!

The filter baghouse has I think 15 inverted, open bottom filter bags that the air stream passes through before it leaves the shop, and once when my son was blasting, I went outside to check. I could detect nothing being discharged. It has a hell of a flow, and will blow your hand back away from it. The extraction tube on the bottom of the cabinet is 4 inches, and getts larger at the cyclone. That 3 foot section of 4” hose listed for $119, and I found the same hose on Amazon for $38. The baghouse has a shaker handle to make debris drop out the bottom of the bags into a drawer. In my opinion, the cyclone reclaimer system is the only way to fly.
 

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OccupantRJ

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I am lazy I guess. I can get a 1/8”x14x20 acrylic window cut to size from the glass company for $8.26, which will last months if I make sure the rebound glances off the parts in a direction away from the window. I just put a new one in the cabinet Friday. Amazingly, the glass window on the Empire cabinet at work had been on there at LEAST 30 years when I retired, and it still looked presentable. Most all of the parts blasted in it though could be cupped in the palm of your hand, and were brass. How well it lasted never ceased to amaze me.
 
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OccupantRJ

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Just to get this out there, powder coat is nice, but not to the person who has the task of removing it. You could go broke and have a warped up mess paying to have it blasted! There are chemical strippers that I may give a try, but I would almost rather sand it off than deal with the gooey mess. Luckily, I am retired and in no hurry on my own parts, so I am sanding on this deck about 30 minutes at the time. The sanding grit has to move slowly not to gum up or smear the powder coat. I found that roloc sanding discs on an air drill with speed controlled by a regulator does this well, although slow as hell.

I have a commercial blaster, but with my bad knees and the outdoor heat, i think I will sit on my stool in the air conditioning and whittle away. Cold beer and motor trend Tv playing helps.
 

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hollywoodbusa

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Does anyone know who made this blast cabinet? No markings I can find. 73fd26debb8fc152badb224d9f5cfe24.jpg267d7c3ed6c507b55be372891d418cdc.jpg09d9497c53ec88a54d3d1e7de7eba31f.jpg

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930dreamer

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I spotted this on FB, it shows $200 and it runs but that can't be right? Any weight issue with loading this in the bed of my F350 dually? If I din't have to bring a trailer this trip......
 

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