The Aerodrome Studio - Machine_Punk

[machine_punk]

m_p,

If you still need one, search for "Tool Balancer" on ebay and you can find them cheap from time to time. I bought one that is adjustable up to 30 lbs and I'm sure I didn't pay over $30 for it (that's kind of my limit for things that look interesting and might be used for a project someday )

Keep up the good work!

Thanks for the encouragement and the tip. I've done a quick search...all the current balancers are too light or too expensive...but I'm not in a hurry for that one and I've been known to watch for months, waiting for the 'right deal.' (got both my squeezers for $75 dollars...easily $750 for the pair of them at used prices, around $4000 for them brand new). Actually, I got to looking at the lighter balancers--that might be a fun thing to have in general, for lighter tools (listen to the sound of gears turning)...several air drills set up with the right bit, just hanging there, waiting for their turn.

Some of the Japanese balancers have the air hose built into the tool support...that looks interesting...
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m_p, you are really taking on an interesting project....thanks for taking the time to share it with the guys on the forum. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Shaun

Thanks for the kind words! I am really close to a major milestone in this project, then you will see a lot quicker progress and it will make more sense where I am heading with this project.

 

[Red Leader]

Can't wait for the next update!

Keep it up!

 

[machine_punk]

Can't wait for the next update!

Keep it up!

You don't have to...I'll have the next TWO updates up before I go to bed tonight. Just got done uploading pictures from the rest of today's activities and I'm starting to compose the posts now...

 

[machine_punk]

What does fresh pasta have to do with the garage?!?!

So, you are probably asking yourself, "Self" ('cause that's what you call yourself, when you are talking to yourself), you are asking, "Self, what does a big ball of fresh, homemade pasta dough have to do with the garage?"
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You are going to join me on a little detour I had this afternoon. It will tie in with the garage, I promise.

So, this afternoon, I decided to start working on dinner early. When I am home before my wife, I generally get dinner started. I guess it's only fair, I've been on TV for cooking (MasterChef USA, Season 2, top 100) and I am currently teaching weekly cooking lessons to several people.

Since I decided on spaghetti, I figured I might as well make the pasta from scratch (there is nothing which compares to fresh pasta--yummy). Anyway, fresh pasta needs to sit for an hour, before rolling and cutting, so I spaced the kitchen work in with my garage work today. Which gave me the idea to go ahead and build a pasta rack, to dry the pasta after cutting. I was dreading the trip to the hardware store to pick up wood dowels (another delay), so I searched around the garage...and what did I find? Several wooden dowels--that was very insightful of me...to pick up spares the last time I was at the hardware store. Isn't that cool, when it works out like that.

I really didn't want to go through a LOT of effort for the pasta rack...just something simple. Here is a pic of my pasta machine (I DEFINITELY recommend the ATLAS machine, over the other one), along with a couple of blocks I keep in the box, so I can clamp it to thinner counters. You see my quick 'pasta rack bracket' clamped under the pasta machine this time...
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Then a few dowels, cut in half and inserted into the bracket...
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And a rack full of yummy pasta, drying and waiting for supper tonight. That was a quick project and it is nice when you 'buy extras' of stuff for future projects...
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OK. While the pasta dries, lets head back to the major projects going on in The Aerodrome Studio...

 

[machine_punk]

A Strut Primer and PROJECT COMPLETED!

Whew...after much climbing up and down the step stool, changing tools, holding 15 things up at the same time, and general mild cursing--the second strut is up, level, and parallel to the bottom strut...
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If you will remember, one of my overall goals for this project is to have completely reconfigurable tool storage on the wall, with custom touches (hence the name of this framework, "Reconfigurable Tool Rack." My primary goal was to do this WITHOUT PEG BOARD. If you like peg board, I'm pleased that it is working for you. I'm not making a value judgement--it does what it does very well--I just really don't want it in my studio. I call my workshop a studio because I do artistic metalworking there. Even when I am buildging practical things, like tool storage walls, I want there to be an artistic element there. Since it is a studio, a creative space, peg board won't work--it just doesn't set that creative vibe I am looking for in my work space.

Anyway, to add to the inherent reconfigurability of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack, I wanted the freedom to place the tool rack anywhere I want it, if my needs change in the future. After mulling it over for a few weeks (while working on other parts of the project), I decided that strut was the most reconfigurable thing I could mount it with. Whether I want to move it a couple of inches, or all the way down the wall, strut can do it.

I'm sure some of you guys out there work with strut pretty much every day at work. I didn't know a lot about strut (in this case, "Superstrut A 1200," in 10-foot lengths, from Home Depot, for about $18/strut) before starting this project. I've seen it around a lot...supporting pipes and cables in the bowels of buildings, but didn't really know much about it.

That all changed, when I helped to install the stage lights at the church I attend (I've been doing stage and audio/visual work for about 28 years as a volunteer). The installers told me that strut can hold an incredible amount of weight, is very modular, and has a bunch of brackets that work to make it even more useful. It also ties in well with using threaded bar. If you need something 'held up,' there is very little you couldn't hold up with the combination of strut and threaded rod.

Here is a closeup of the strut I have mounted on the wall (it's one of those weird words, like 'sheep,' which kinda pluralizes itself, without an extra 's.' You know, you could have one sheep, or a herd of sheep. In this case, you could have one strut on the wall, or a stack of strut over in the corner. Weird.) You see the strut, a special captive nut built just for strut (looks a lot like a brush for an electric motor), a regular 3/8" flat washer, and a 3/8"x1" coarse bolt...
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Here is a better shot of a few of the special nuts for strut. They come in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" coarse thread (well, I'm sure they come in a lot of different threads...this is what my Home Depot carries). The outer shell of the nut is pretty much exactly the same size, with just a different size of tapped hole in the middle. They have a crimp on both edges, which helps it to stay in the track while you are tightening it. They also have two opposite corners filed off. You'll see why in a moment. The spring is just there to hold the nut in place, while you screw in the bolt. Once the bolt is in place, the spring is useless...
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You insert the nut wherever you need it on the strut...
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Push it in, below the edges...
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Then turn it clockwise to pop it in place. The squared off corners won't let you turn it counterclockwise to put it in place. When you are tightening the nut, the square corners keep the nut from spinning. The rounded corners let you turn the nut to place it in the strut, without having to slide it all the way from one end or the other...
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Here is a picture with a bolt and washer temporarily threaded in, just for demonstration purposes...
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There are lots of standard fittings for strut--angled pieces to let you build 2D or 3D frames with them, stuff to make it easier to use threaded rod with them, and brackets which just slip under the edges and hold pretty much any diameter pipe you want.

OK...so the strut is up. Next is the thing I seem to do the most, drilling holes. You don't really need to see that again, so lets just agree that some holes got drilled. Let's also say that I didn't take everything into account when drilling those holes and some other parts had to be removed, clearance cut, then reinstalled. Lets also, for the sake of argument agree that not everything went perfectly and there was a fair amount of muttering and climbing up and down a step stool. Interesting stuff, I am sure, but not something we need a lot of photos of.

So, here we go, it's finally done, today, December 15th, 2011...



I present to you...



The Reconfigurable Tool Rack (Prototype) (Model: RTR 4x20) (ser. no: 0001)...



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Now...this thing is STURDY! I grabbed the top rail and hung from it...and it didn't even yawn. It didn't budge. I feel totally confident filling this up with heavy tools and not worrying about it falling off the wall. Each strut is mounted to the wall with six 3/8"x3.5" lag screws. The Reconfigurable Tool Rack is mounted to the strut with a total of ten 3/8"x1" bolts. Each pair of rack rails (the black, pre-drilled-and-tapped rails) is bolted to the framework with seven 1/4"x1" bolts.

So, now, you are probably asking yourself, "Yes, but what's it all for?!?!"

And you would be right to ask that question. That Reconfigurable Tool Rack still looks a bit bare. Now, I have to start building Custom Tool Boards for it. Each little tool board will mount like this commercial one-rack-space panel I have, from some of my music equipment. I've decided on socket head cap screws (because they are, hands down, the coolest machine screw you can use). I've also decided on brass washers, for a bit of contrast...
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And here is the sort of thing which will populate this tool rack. I will be building Custom Tool Boards for each set of tools I use routinely and want to keep out in plain sight, while I work. This is a mock up of the way I plan to store the 'rivet sets' and spacers I use with my rivets squeezers...
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Remember the mock up I showed you earlier...
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Remember these two dental lights I bought to go over my bench?...
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The brackets for them were designed, from the very beginning, to work with the Reconfigurable Tool Rack. Notice all the little holes on the edges? Does that look familiar now? They are the same pattern as the rack rail I installed on the tool rack...
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I suspect I've got a few dozen more hours into completing those light brackets, but I have a place to mount them, when they are done.

That's all for tonight. I will have some free time tomorrow, but I'm not sure how much I'll get done in the garage.

 

[shopnut]

Great pictures m_p. And definitely great progress on the rack. So I guess there are a bunch of tool holders to make next, eh? Looking good.

That Unistrut (or Superstrut) has a 1001 uses plus it is readily available at the big box stores. Just a note to the readers that are interested in the strut - included in the multitude of accessories available are wheels that fit inside it so you can use it for all sorts of things that need to roll, like door tracks and rolling hoists.

Maybe I missed it, but I'm just curious why your rack didn't get mounted directly to the wall. Did you need clearance? Do you plan to move it occasionally? I'm guessing there was some plan in your head.

Looking forward to see what develops on the light brackets. Have fun!

 

[machine_punk]

Maybe I missed it, but I'm just curious why your rack didn't get mounted directly to the wall. Did you need clearance? Do you plan to move it occasionally? I'm guessing there was some plan in your head. Have fun!

Thanks again for the the clarification and kind words...

I guess that did get buried in the story. My overall goal is reconfigurability...I want to be able to change things as my needs change or I figure out a better way to do something (that is one thing GJ has taught me...we almost never 'get it right' on the first try.)

It also allows me to mount ANYTHING else on the wall easily. Think of the unistrut as 'metal French cleats.' My first idea was to run wooden French cleats all the way around the wall at several different heights. The unistrut does the same thing, just with metal, instead of wood.

It does also give me a little bit of clearance. Most of the tool boards will just hold the tools on the surface. I thought, though, that it might be fun to make a couple of them with 'depth...' sort of a mini medicine cabinet, 'built between the studs.' We'll see. The main purpose is the ability to move things later.

Eventually, I will pipe in my air system with black pipe. All I have to do for the drop now is to slip the pipe bracket in the unistrut and tighten a screw.

Also, what you don't know yet is that I will eventually get rid of that ridiculously-inadequate gray shelf at the end of the tool rack, build a custom storage cabinet in it's place and reorganize the garage to move it further down and give me more room to work. Who knows where I will want this rack by that time? I've got a lot of ideas for my work area, but I don't know the final layout yet...with me, that sort of forms organically as I build (and as GJ folks comment and come up with great ideas).

And, of course, a little bit of it is just the coolness factor...unistrut is pretty neat stuff, which got me to thinking, "how can I put that in my garage?"

So, overall, the unistrut gives me the ability to change my configuration. You are going to see a lot more of this rack rail (and probably unistrut), as I build more shop fixtures.

 

[JSBriggs]

...Eventually, I will pipe in my air system with black pipe. All I have to do for the drop now is to slip the pipe bracket in the unistrut and tighten a screw...

Copper is a bit easier to work with, and in a smaller space like a 2 car garage the cost difference is negligible. Copper also has the non-ferrious machine punk look.

-Jeff

 

[machine_punk]

Hmmm...

Must. Do. More. Research.

Hadn't really thought of copper. I've seen my dad sweat plenty of plumbing joints, never really thought about doing it myself. I actually use a 'plumber's torch' quite a bit...just in the kitchen, where it carmelizes the sugar on crème brûlée and scorches the skins off of bell peppers.

I LOVE the look of copper. Now I am excited. Thanks for the wonderful idea. That definitely fits with the Victorian steam punk/mechanical look I like! (and there is a plumbing supplier just a couple of miles from my house).

 

[smschriefer]

With regards to the copper airlines. Will you put random valves and gauges for aesthetic purposes? That would be cool, even if they were old broken gauges.

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

^ That is a cool idea to add to the 'flavor' of the garage decor!

 

[machine_punk]

RE: Pipes and Gauges

With regards to the copper airlines. Will you put random valves and gauges for aesthetic purposes? That would be cool, even if they were old broken gauges.

^ That is a cool idea to add to the 'flavor' of the garage decor!

1/2 step ahead of you on this one...I have been watching for old gauges on eBay for several months now.

My plan, once I get more of the shop 'up and running,' is to build an artistic piece to surround the Reconfigurable Tool Rack...make it look like the combination of a free-form airplane wing and a mechanical machine...with aircraft lights, tubes going everywhere, old gauges, valves, etc. For now, I just wanted to get the Reconfigurable Tool Rack framework built, so I can start building the Custom Tool Boards and get some of my tools put on the wall.

Not much time in the studio this afternoon, but I did get time to move everything back to its correct location, put all my tools away, and swept the floor. I usually try to do a good cleanup in the garage after I finish a project...it is unbelievable how many tools one person can pull out (and not put away), while working on any given project. Anyway, the studio is nice and clean and ready for my next project (I bought some of the stuff I need to build the first few Custom Tool Boards.)

I'll be busy with family stuff tomorrow...hopefully some time to work in the studio and post an update on Sunday.

Thanks for the posts, everyone! It is always interesting to see what everyone thinks about the projects I am working on.

M_P

 

[machine_punk]

Custom Tool Board - Power Supply

I didn't spend much time in the studio the past couple of days, but I've been dying to build at least one tool board, so I spent a couple of hours out there.

I started out WAY too complicated, for the first tool board. I wanted to attach the 6-outlet-strip BEHIND the the panel and cut out holes for all the parts. Way cool...way too tough to do by hand. I need to either find a Greenlee punch for outlets, or make a template for the router...
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So, I got a little more basic. A plain plate with two holes drilled and tapped (My FIRST EVER time tapping a hole - that was cool), two 10-32 screws inserted, and the six-outlet-strip mounted on the front. It took a bit of measuring to get the six-outlet-strip centered top-to-bottom. I decided to mount it off-center left-to-right, so the cord wouldn't get in the way of other tool boards, to the right. I won't put more than four corner screws in most tool boards, but I figured with all the pulling plugs out, it might be a good idea...
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[Red Leader]

Lookin' good my man!

You'll find that the longer you hang out here, the harder your project becomes...as you try to figure out how to sort through all the good ideas.

-Dave

 

[machine_punk]

Yes...as if I wasn't already paralyzed by over-thinking everything. Hopefully a few of my projects will come together soon and I'll be giving other folks things to think about for their garages.

 

[landroversforever]

Love the idea of the RTR . However for me that wouldn't work as I like my tools to be away in their draw of the tool chest. Each to their own .

The use of unistrut is great, I never came across it until my job now. The number of brackets and clamps and mounting methods are seemingly endless! I would get some end caps on those rails, as from previous experience I can tell you they hurt .

When you were in England, where abouts were you?

And the last and most important comment..... MMMMMMM FRESH PASTA!!!

And as you mentioned Land Rovers... here is mine! One of the first 90's... built in '84

Ross
Oxford, UK

 

[Tripp P.]

Doing some catching up. Wow that rack is looking good! Really like seeing the fasteners that hold everything together. Makes for a unique look. I would check out the copper for your air lines. I planned on useing copper from the start. Plumbed a whole factory with it in the early 2000's. Its was so easy to work with. And it looks really good.

 

[machine_punk]

LANDROVERSFOREVER: Thanks for the pic of your landrover...that is my favorite color too (I believe they call it Eastnor Green). It's a great-looking rover you have. I particularly like the external roll cage. I've always loved landrovers. I guess at age 42, it's time to start doing something about that. I suppose that if I could have my dream cars, it would be a Landrover Defender 110 and a Citroen DS.

I was at Lakenheath RAF (near Bury St. Edmunds and Cambridge). Suffolk County. My dad was visiting forces, so I was actually born there and lived in Ipswitch for my first six months. Then back to England from age 4-7. Then went back as visiting forces myself, from 2006-2008. When I was there as an adult, I lived in Newmarket.

Yep...to each his own on tool storage. I just really like to have all my commonly-used tools out in the open. I'm sure I'll keep the rolling tool cart (HF 5-drawer) for wrenches and stuff I will need repairing cars, etc., but all my riveting tools will go on the wall. I tend to be a very visual person and I like to see the tools I am working with.

I'll have to see if I can find some unistrut caps. I don't remember seeing them at Home Depot. If not, I'll have to make something to cover the ends.

That pasta was good. Now that I teach cooking classes, it is hard to justify just using dried noodles and the rest of the family loves the fresh stuff.

 

[machine_punk]

TRIPP P: Thanks for the nice comments.

I have switched to planning to do copper pipe for the air lines. But, that opens up a whole new can of worms. It looks like soldering may not be strong enough (when I look at 'working pressure' tables for soldered copper joints). That makes it look like brazing is the way to go. However, it looks like brazing needs oxy-acetylene to get to 1100-1500 degrees, and I only have torches like these...
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Technique-wise, I'm sure I can pull off soldering or brazing (I've done a lot of electrical soldering). So, I'm getting ready to start a new thread, asking about copper air line piping (I've searched...and couldn't find answers to the questions I had.) I'll start a new post for that.

Hey, Tripp, did you ever decide how you were going to mount those T wrenches?

 

[EdT]

Thanks for a very interesting thread. I've especially enjoyed the info about riveting. WRT using copper pipe, it's way easier than black iron and a lot easier to correct in the event you make a mistake. WRT soldering, I think ordinary solder will work fine unless your shop is hot enough to cook in or you plan on running extremely high line pressures. I did mine years ago with ordinary plumbing solder and it as held up just fine. I don't think there's any reason you couldn't hard solder it if you wanted to, but "silver" solder has gotten really expensive and you'll need quite a bit. Keep up the interesting work!!

 

[horizontallyopposed]

MP

My dad was in refrigeration. He had (and I now I have) a dual tip acetylene brazing torch. It heats both sides of the pipe at the same time and offers very even heat control. I tried to google a picture of one, but am havign no luck. However, with it, brazing small diameter copper tubing is a breeze. My dad was a master of brazing - as a side story - in junior high, I worked in a machine shop as the broom jockey. My dad would stop in on a Saturday to chat with the guys and see what was going on. One time we were making jewellery display cases that were brazed together. He booted the guy off the stool who was doing the brazing and took over for the whole afternoon. My boss came by later in the day and said "I feel bad - should I be paying your dad?".

-Keith

 

[shopnut]

Two things M_P:

- Go for the copper lines; it will look great with the aluminum in there. I find soldering the joints is actually quite enjoyable. In my climate at least, the copper gets dingy looking pretty quick. So if you want to keep that fresh copper look, you may have to coat it with something to preserve it. YMMV in your climate.

- Since your RTR is spaced off the wall about 1.75" (or whatever the height of that UniStrut is), you might consider using any dead spaces void of air lines for storing long slender stock like all-thread rod, wood dowels, and pipe laid horizontally. I see what looks like a door on the left side of the rack and this would be a good access point for the stock that will never be blocked with other stuff on the wall, like a protruding cabinet. Of course, you will have to build something to stack and divide the material (maybe tubes?), but I know you will have fun doing it.

 

[Stuart in MN]

There are all kinds of fittings and adapters for strut, when you have time you should browse through the catalogs.

Unistrut: http://www.unistrut.us/index.php?WP=LItLibrary

Another popular brand is Kindorf: http://www.tnb.com/ps/con/contractor.cgi?a=cbrands&bid=107 It's a Thomas & Betts product.

 

[machine_punk]

Thanks for a very interesting thread. I've especially enjoyed the info about riveting. WRT using copper pipe, it's way easier than black iron and a lot easier to correct in the event you make a mistake. WRT soldering, I think ordinary solder will work fine unless your shop is hot enough to cook in or you plan on running extremely high line pressures. I did mine years ago with ordinary plumbing solder and it as held up just fine. I don't think there's any reason you couldn't hard solder it if you wanted to, but "silver" solder has gotten really expensive and you'll need quite a bit. Keep up the interesting work!!

I'm guessing a lot of folks run the copper line with normal plumbing solder. I don't plan to run excessive pressure. I plan to run 'tank pressure' through the line, but my compressor cuts out at 125 PSI. Thanks for the input on how you did your copper pipe (regular plumbing solder)...it helps to have information from people who have actually done it.

Thanks for the kind words. If there is anything I strive to be in this world, it is 'interesting.' Once I get enough pictures and material together, I'll probably start a separate thread, "Solid Rivets 101," to be the definitive place to go for solid rivet information on GJ. Right now, I have that daily choice of making significant progress in the shop or stopping to write for GJ. Time in the shop wins, for now.

MP

My dad was in refrigeration. He had (and I now I have) a dual tip acetylene brazing torch. It heats both sides of the pipe at the same time and offers very even heat control. I tried to google a picture of one, but am havign no luck. However, with it, brazing small diameter copper tubing is a breeze. My dad was a master of brazing - as a side story - in junior high, I worked in a machine shop as the broom jockey. My dad would stop in on a Saturday to chat with the guys and see what was going on. One time we were making jewellery display cases that were brazed together. He booted the guy off the stool who was doing the brazing and took over for the whole afternoon. My boss came by later in the day and said "I feel bad - should I be paying your dad?".

-Keith

That dual-tip brazing torch sounds interesting. I think I've seen one before...I'll have to look into it. I think in the big picture, I'd be happier brazing these, instead of soldering--but I don't have the oxy-acetylene equipment right now...and it isn't 'next' on my list of purchases.

(NEXT, by the way, is: the Milwaukee variable-speed, deep-cut, portable band saw.
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Then, likely a 48" box and pan brake.
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Maybe I'll be able to get the oxy-acetylene setup in a few months...I have been wanting it).

Thanks for the interesting story related to my thread.

Two things M_P:

- Go for the copper lines; it will look great with the aluminum in there. I find soldering the joints is actually quite enjoyable. In my climate at least, the copper gets dingy looking pretty quick. So if you want to keep that fresh copper look, you may have to coat it with something to preserve it. YMMV in your climate.

- Since your RTR is spaced off the wall about 1.75" (or whatever the height of that UniStrut is), you might consider using any dead spaces void of air lines for storing long slender stock like all-thread rod, wood dowels, and pipe laid horizontally. I see what looks like a door on the left side of the rack and this would be a good access point for the stock that will never be blocked with other stuff on the wall, like a protruding cabinet. Of course, you will have to build something to stack and divide the material (maybe tubes?), but I know you will have fun doing it.

Copper lines are definitely in the plans now. I think I have to stay 'non-ferrous' now when possible. (have you seen that they have a whole fiberglass-based line of superstrut, for those times people need non-conductive support structures?)

That long-stock-storage idea is interesting...I've got a few plans for short/medium/long stock storage, but hadn't thought about 'behind the RTR.' A few of my Custom Tool Boards will be deeper (kind of like the medicine cabinets, which are recessed into the wall), but I should be able to come up with some sort of 'long stock' storage behind there. That would be handy for things like dowels (either wood dowels or metal rod). As you said, that end has the door and the laundry area, so I won't likely ever be 'blocked.' I've already been thinking about storage for short stock...and I'm thinking hard about PVC pipe, mounted horizontally. Inexpensive, won't scratch the stock, easy to mount.

After your reminder about the trolleys which fit in superstrut, I am planning to put a couple of superstrut rails on the ceiling (one going the length of my work area and one going perpendicular to that...which will allow me to unload heavy stuff from a truck and move it into my shop area, then switch to the other track and move it within my shop area.) It will be limited to about 600 pounds max...but could be helpful for awkward/heavier items...especially since I usually work by myself.

I'm planning on running the air line around the shop near the ceiling. The air compressor is on the exact opposite corner of the garage, right by the garage door. So, I'll run the line straight up, across the top of the garage door, then down the wall of the studio (the wall you see the RTR on). I plan to have one drop right out of the compressor, for hooking up a hose for filling tires, etc. in the driveway. I'll have two drops over in the shop area (one on the right and one on the left of the RTR). Eventually I'll have a couple of reels over there--although, it really doesn't bother me to just use shorter (25 ft) straight hose. I've been eyeing that 'Flexilla' stuff. With the drops, I think a 25 ft and a 50 ft hose will meet most of my needs. I also plan to put swivels on all the air tools.

Overall, I'm thinking 3/4" for the copper pipe. I know that's a bit excessive, but it really doesn't cost that much more and it is the 'no regrets' solution. Even if I don't stay in this house, I'll likely be taking the copper tube with me, if I move.



EVERYONE: Thanks for your replies to my thread. I am always interested in hearing what people have to say, when they see what I am working on.

 

[machine_punk]

There are all kinds of fittings and adapters for strut, when you have time you should browse through the catalogs.

Unistrut: http://www.unistrut.us/index.php?WP=LItLibrary

Another popular brand is Kindorf: http://www.tnb.com/ps/con/contractor.cgi?a=cbrands&bid=107 It's a Thomas & Betts product.

Oh, hey, STUART...you must have been writing the same time I was. Thanks for the strut resources...that'll keep me dreaming for a while. Strut is cool stuff. I spent WAY too long looking through the strut literature.

 

[machine_punk]

Custom Tool Board - Squeezer Rivet Sets

Just had a couple of hours out in the studio today. Slowly trying to get some Custom Tool Boards onto the Reconfigurable Tool Rack (it looks so bare right now). I have a couple of priorities in building tool boards, since I will be a LONG time before I can fill up the whole tool rack.

I want to build tool boards for my most-commonly-used tools first, which will likely be a lot of tools for solid rivets (build most-used boards first). I want to build simpler tool boards first (get as many boards up as soon as possible).

I finished up on the power extension tool board first. When I was planning on putting the six-outlet-strip BEHIND the front of the tool board, I wanted to bring the 'ground' from the outlet strip to a ground screw on the front of the tool board (that is why you see that little pig tail hanging off the six-outlet-strip).

Now that I have mounted the power strip on the front of the tool board, the grounding pig tail was just hanging out. So, I thought I'd go ahead and make it look like I had a plan from the very beginning (since I've been having so much fun with the tap and die set I just got, I thought I'd just go ahead and put a threaded hole in the plate and put in a green ground screw) Oooh, I just realized I forgot to put the star lock washer on the ground screw. I'll fix that tomorrow...
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Now, on to the newest tool board. I use the rivet squeezers a lot for installing rivets. Once you get the squeezer set up correctly for the material thickness, you can easily squeeze rivets all day (as long as they are within a few inches of the edge of the material).

[RIVETING LANGUAGE: A 'rivet set' is only one object, even though they are used in 'sets' (pairs). That is a bit confusing, which is why I stopped to clarify the terminology for you. A 'rivet set' is one, reverse-rivet-head-shaped, mini anvil, which has a 3/16" stud sticking out the back. It comes from the phrase 'to set a rivet.' That stud allows you to mount it in the rivet squeezer (any of the following: a manual, hand-operated squeezer, a pneumatic squeezer, or on the end of a special 'hammer' with a 3/16" hole in it which fits in a standard rivet gun or over-arm rivet setter). You generally use the rivet set with the rivet-head-sized-hole on the factory head of the rivet and a 'flush' rivet set (flat) on the unformed end of the rivet, to produce the shop head (the head you form as part of setting the rivet).]

I have quite a few rivet sets and it is a real pain sort through them, when they are in a little pile in the drawer. Having all of them out in the open will be so much nicer...
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You've already seen the idea for this Custom Tool Board. Remember this?...
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Here is the bracket, just sitting on the tool board. I've done all the fabrication to the bracket and it is ready to rivet onto the tool board...
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A closeup of the end which will have short posts for holding spacers...
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Here is my first attempt (well, OK, first three attempts) at threading a rod. I'll admit these are rough (and cut crooked...I'm going to have re-make these), but WOW, this opens up so many more options when custom-building things. I think I'll use the drill press or the mini lathe (by hand...not turned on) to keep everything lined up while threading...
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And the tapped holes in which I will screw these pieces of threaded rod...
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Another pic of the whole bracket. This Custom Tool Board will hold 20 rivet sets and plenty of spacers...
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And here is the identifying information, stamped by hand on the back of the Custom Tool Board...
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[muibubbles]

sorry i only skimmed an looked at pictures but since youre planning on the portable band saw, you might want to check this out to make it a vertical bandsaw.. (sorry if this is a repost)

http://www.swagoffroad.com/Porta_band_Modular_Mount_Product.html

 

[machine_punk]

Thanks for the idea.

I like the SWAG band saw tables (actually, I like all of the SWAG products...they do good engineering).

I think I'm going to try my hand at making one (like the model which clamps into the vise). I've got a piece of 1/4"-thick aluminum plate sitting in the corner, waiting for me to build that mini band saw table.

I've also been looking on eBay for miter gauges, and they seem to be readily available. I think I'm going to put a miter groove on both sides of the blade (like the standard table saw miter setup).

 

[smschriefer]

I really like what you are doing. I know you are artistic and I have an idea for you that combines art and your desired look.

Have you thought about etched brass plates for your pieces? A nice custom design like your avatar as the logo and the identification information stamped in a determined space. Your placement of the tag would be determined by your preference. Brass would be cool, since you could also either have it polished, or patina it for an aged effect. It would be riveted on and you could even experiment with rivet types.

Just a thought.

 

[smschriefer]

Here is what I was thinking of.

 

[machine_punk]

I really like what you are doing. I know you are artistic and I have an idea for you that combines art and your desired look.

Have you thought about etched brass plates for your pieces? A nice custom design like your avatar as the logo and the identification information stamped in a determined space. Your placement of the tag would be determined by your preference. Brass would be cool, since you could also either have it polished, or patina it for an aged effect. It would be riveted on and you could even experiment with rivet types.

Just a thought.

Here is what I was thinking of.

Great minds think alike! Thanks so much for taking the time to work up a sample!I have ALWAYS loved the look of those identification tags.

I had a design worked up a few weeks ago...just waiting to have the money to get a batch of them made (I have a couple of tools I need first...at least the band saw, which will save me a LOT of effort in fabrication). I did see that thread on the brass etching and that is an interesting thought (making my own). ...
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The only issue is that I'm not particularly sold on my 'logo' yet. I formulated this 'double airfoil profile' logo specifically to fit in the 'square' avatar design...
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If I end up using 'airfoil profile' design, I actually like this logo better...
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But I'm still not sold on that design. The defining feature of an aerodrome was the wind sock/flag. (An aerodrome was an early airport...no set runway, just a big, round field, with a wind sock in the middle. Airplanes just landed whichever way they needed to.)

In the end, I will need a relatively simple logo, which can be embossed in aluminum sheet, to integrate into some of my projects. So, my logo is a work in progress right now.

Thanks so much for the post! I am pleased to see others getting into the groove with what I am trying to do. Merry Christmas!

 

[machine_punk]

- Go for the copper lines; it will look great with the aluminum in there. I find soldering the joints is actually quite enjoyable. In my climate at least, the copper gets dingy looking pretty quick. So if you want to keep that fresh copper look, you may have to coat it with something to preserve it. YMMV in your climate.

You know, SHOPNUT, I keep going back and forth between the two extremes. I will either spray a clear coating on the copper tubing to keep that brilliant copper shine, or I will squirt some sort of solution on it to quickly form the green verdigris all over the pipe.

I am leaning away from just painting the studio a nice, clean yellow and brown, and thinking now of using a lot of faux finishes and doing my own (more machine-like) version of this...
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or this...
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It will clearly be a bit more industrial and a lot less plush, but I am thinking about pushing the theme to the max eventually. I know all the non-ferrous bits (aluminum and copper) will fit well, I just have to decide whether I want the polished copper or verdigris copper in there. I think I'm going for that whole '20,000 leagues under the sea" look.

 

[smschriefer]

I know what you are saying regarding the feel and keeping it simple. Have you thought of something more retro? It would kind of play to your theme. I was prior Air Force, so I am going to go 1920's Air Corp pursuit colors with your theme.

 

[smschriefer]

Hrmm, I think I should have made it bigger. lol

 

[machine_punk]

DONE - Custom Tool Board - Squeezer Rivet Sets

Custom Tool Board #2 is DONE!

This one is for Squeezer Rivet Sets.

Here are some pictures...
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I've really been working on the details...like hand-filing to remove all the sharp corners. I like to follow the proper procedure for air frame work, even if I am not building an airplane. Sharp corners would definitely be removed, if this bracket was going into an airplane. I've also been getting better at long, straight rows of holes (An absolute necessity for building with rivets. Nothing makes a row of rivets look junky like a crooked row of holes)...
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The mounting slots aren't perfect, by any means. You will see more about these slots in a moment...
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So, to cut those slots, I drill two 7/32nds" holes, 1/4" apart. Then, I use this bit in my Dremel to remove the material between the two holes. Some of them turn out nearly perfect. Others are quite rough (it basically depends on how patient I am being). In the end, though, most of each slot will be covered by a washer and a socket head cap screw...
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I plan to purchase the socket head cap screws and washers in bulk (from Ace Hardware--ask at the counter for bulk pricing--they will call their supplier and give you a quote on the spot). For now, though, I am using these 'standard' music rack rack screws (threaded to the same 10-32 thread as the pre-tapped rack rail)...
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Here is a test piece to set up the rivet squeezer for this job. Yes, it LOOKS rough, but that isn't important. I just need a thin strip of the same materials I will be using, to get the length of rivet and rivet squeezer setup correctly...
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Here is why you always start on a test piece...I smashed the snot out of this piece on the first try. WHEW--I am so glad those weren't the parts I just spent hours fabricating...
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Here are both of the first two Custom Tool Boards, mounted on the Reconfigurable Tool Rack. The bottom tool board holds a six-outlet-strip (just a fancy extension cord). The top one holds rivet sets and spacers for my rivet squeezers. Two Custom Tool Boards built...
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And a WHOLE BUNCH left to go...
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Here are my two pneumatic rivet squeezers and a few rivet sets...
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A few more pictures, with the tool board mounted on the RTR...
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[mdbeck1]

Now you need one to hold the pneumatic rivet squeezers.

 

[Bob Heine]

Thanks for the idea.

I like the SWAG band saw tables (actually, I like all of the SWAG products...they do good engineering).

I think I'm going to try my hand at making one (like the model which clamps into the vise). I've got a piece of 1/4"-thick aluminum plate sitting in the corner, waiting for me to build that mini band saw table.

I've also been looking on eBay for miter gauges, and they seem to be readily available. I think I'm going to put a miter groove on both sides of the blade (like the standard table saw miter setup).

I bought the Swag Portaband Table V1.0 (the one that clamps in the vise) to go with the used Milwaukee 6230 I purchased on Ebay. The saw weighs 17 pounds so the 1/4" steel plate is more than adequate for a stable base. The 1/4" aluminum plate you are thinking of using may not handle the load and I'd be concerned about the stress at the 90-degree bend. I would suggest buying the steel table and then making your own miter tracks using aluminum. Now that I have it, I wish I had gone for the V3.0 Table because it has dual precision tracks built in and it would free up my vise. Ten minutes after I have the saw set up, I realize I need the vise for something else.

 

[machine_punk]

Now you need one to hold the pneumatic rivet squeezers.

That is EXACTLY where I am headed with this! (and why I built the RTR four rack spaces wide...) All of my air tools will eventually have their own nest on the tool board.

Oddly enough, things like wrenches will probably stay in the rolling tool cart (something most folks would put on a 'peg board.') Each of the four main sizes of rivets will have their own panel for things like drill bits, rivet gun rivet sets, and other stuff related to that size of rivet. I'm sure I'll make one for screwdrivers.

You've already seen that my task lighting will be integrated into this rack (the brackets for the dental lights). I also have an idea for an 'under-cabinet-style' light that will look like the leading edge of a wing and fit at the top of the rack.

I've had the ideas for most of this for several months...I just had to get the tools I needed and actually learn how to rivet and fabricate this stuff. It feels like I am barely moving forward. I'm just going to have to be persistent and spend the time I can, just keep working on the next part of the project. I think I finally reached the point where people can visualize where I am going with this.

Thanks for posting! Merry Christmas.

 

[machine_punk]

I bought the Swag Portaband Table V1.0 (the one that clamps in the vise) to go with the used Milwaukee 6230 I purchased on Ebay. The saw weighs 17 pounds so the 1/4" steel plate is more than adequate for a stable base. The 1/4" aluminum plate you are thinking of using may not handle the load and I'd be concerned about the stress at the 90-degree bend. I would suggest buying the steel table and then making your own miter tracks using aluminum. Now that I have it, I wish I had gone for the V3.0 Table because it has dual precision tracks built in and it would free up my vise. Ten minutes after I have the saw set up, I realize I need the vise for something else.

I appreciate your advice. I've seen the 'freestanding' model of the SWAG band saw table and wasn't quite sure what I thought about it. You make an excellent point and I might go in a little different direction than building an aluminum copy of the SWAG vice table. (I wasn't going to bend it 90 degrees...it would have been all-riveted construction).

I've got plans for a reconfigurable bench for bench-top power tools. I think the band saw table I end up building to hold the Milwaukee saw will end up being another 'station' on that bench.

You've given me some food for thought. Thanks for taking the time to post!

 

[Red Leader]

Re: DONE - Custom Tool Board - Squeezer Rivet Sets

Here is why you always start on a test piece...I smashed the snot out of this piece on the first try. WHEW--I am so glad those weren't the parts I just hours fabricating...

Man, I hear ya there. Only trouble is on my end I usually end up doing that to the good
part I did spend hours on